CAT6 for exterior application

amrogers3

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Would it be ok to use regular CAT6 UTP (https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=13677) to run on the outside of the house under the eaves? Was going to run it behind the overhang so shouldn't see much sun or rain. This is for a camera install.
 

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pendragon1

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tucked up into the corner with next to no exposure should be fine.
ps: pic doesnt work, just copy/paste it into the message body.
 

SamirD

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So the failure of this type of cable comes from two different events--failure of the jacket over time (will become brittle and then just fall off), and expansion/contraction due to temperature.

The jacket will be cheaper than a branded cable like commscope or one rated for outdoor so that's something to consider even if this one has a lifetime warranty because the time/effort cost of running this cable will far outweigh the cost of the cable itself.

To help with the expansion contraction issue, make sure the cable has no strain on it anywhere if possible, even on vertical runs so that there is not a 'pull' point where over time a break will occur.
 

pendragon1

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is that an over hang that you can put it behind? if so, it will be protected good from sun and weather which will help alleviate the issues SamirD just added. still follow the "no tension" recommendation though, leave the cable retainers just loose enough that you can tug it through a little, snug not tight.
 

amrogers3

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The jacket will be cheaper than a branded cable like commscope or one rated for outdoor so that's something to consider even if this one has a lifetime warranty because the time/effort cost of running this cable will far outweigh the cost of the cable itself.
Thanks. I definitely dont want to have to run cabling again. I am down in Houston so heat and humidity are the most prevalent weather conditions.

I am going to try and run these myself. Can you recommend a cable and connector I should use? I looked up Commscope. They have several options, dont want to make a mistake.

How rigid are these? I need to run along side the eaves and keep the cable tucked underneath the eaves.
 

amrogers3

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another problem it is hardie plank so I can't just nail the retainers in, I will probably have to find a different solution.
 

pendragon1

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get some thats uv rated and that should be fine for TX. why cant you nail hardy board?! there isnt really a better way, anything stick-on will come of in no time.
 

SamirD

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Thanks. I definitely dont want to have to run cabling again. I am down in Houston so heat and humidity are the most prevalent weather conditions.

I am going to try and run these myself. Can you recommend a cable and connector I should use? I looked up Commscope. They have several options, dont want to make a mistake.

How rigid are these? I need to run along side the eaves and keep the cable tucked underneath the eaves.
No one except paid cable installers do. ;) I know that weather dealing with some outdoor installs in Alabama--high humidity, blazing heat, and serious rain storms that keep things moist almost all the time. I saw an outdoor run between two buildings on a tension line fail after about 8 years--and all it was doing was 10Mb regular ethernet.

I don't off the top of my head, but I'd be looking at Commscope 5e cable that's designed for the harshest stuff--under water, sand, military use, etc. It won't be cheap, but you won't ever have to worry about it.

The better the cable, the more rigid it would be--and the less prone it would be to failure from expansion and contraction since it would be designed better.
 

SamirD

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another problem it is hardie plank so I can't just nail the retainers in, I will probably have to find a different solution.
Is hardie plank that brittle? If you can simply drive in a small paneling/finishing nail, the cable might just be able to hang on that 'hook' under the eave. You could also use an adhesive cable channel and just nail it in a spot or two so that the cable as a 'shelf' to just stay in (leave the cable channel cover off).

My parents have hardie slate on their roof and after a class action lawsuit where apparently other owners were able to prove the product couldn't do what it was marketed as, we got a check in the mail as a settlement. And the shingles still keep regularly falling down. Could have been installer error though as the morons here throw away the instructions as soon as they're on a job and do it how 'they know how to'. MFs invalidated a 10 year weathershield warranty on every window on the house (120k worth) because they didn't keep the specified gap between the windows and the brick. :mad:
 

amrogers3

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get some thats uv rated and that should be fine for TX. why cant you nail hardy board?! there isnt really a better way, anything stick-on will come of in no time.

It's basically cement board, I am afraid of it cracking and splitting when nailed. But they got it up there somehow.
 

SamirD

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It's basically cement board, I am afraid of it cracking and splitting when nailed. But they got it up there somehow.
Yeah, I think I know the stuff, but it's not like the regular cement board if it's hardie as it was supposed to be flexible and still be able to be finished like normal drywall sheets. That be said, I'd check out the material safety sheets and instruction manuals on the stuff. Who knows? You may find out that the way they installed it, it's already damaged! :eek: And you will also probably find out exactly what the manufacturer specs for when nailing, screwing, on the material.

So a quick side story. I don't know if they're used anymore, but at one point there was a product called an 'lvl joist' that was basically a thin composite material like plywood standing on its edge between a top and bottom cap that had a groove for the plywood, (it looked like a steel I beam made of wood) all in the size of a normal 2x6 for flooring applications. It's strength was that because the entire top and bottom 'floated' or could float that it would make squeaky floors a thing of the past. And they did work well for that. But then the manufacturer didn't anticipate moron contractors just drilling through them like a regular 2x6, which because this was an engineered product, used engineering for its strength rather than brute strength. I remember seeing the instruction book for one of these tossed on the floor on a job site and how it very specifically mentioned that all holes need to be directly in the center of the beam and to not exceed a certain size. And then I looked up and saw the way that the way a pvc pipe was run right through these, larger than spec and in the wrong place. Needless to say, I wasn't interested in buying the finished house. :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
 

pendragon1

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It's basically cement board, I am afraid of it cracking and splitting when nailed. But they got it up there somehow.
thinner nails in a nail gun and never near the edge is usually not a problem. close to the edge they recommend predrilling. you might be able to use construction glue to stick on cable clips.
 

amrogers3

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Is hardie plank that brittle? If you can simply drive in a small paneling/finishing nail, the cable might just be able to hang on that 'hook' under the eave. You could also use an adhesive cable channel and just nail it in a spot or two so that the cable as a 'shelf' to just stay in (leave the cable channel cover off).

My parents have hardie slate on their roof and after a class action lawsuit where apparently other owners were able to prove the product couldn't do what it was marketed as, we got a check in the mail as a settlement. And the shingles still keep regularly falling down. Could have been installer error though as the morons here throw away the instructions as soon as they're on a job and do it how 'they know how to'. MFs invalidated a 10 year weathershield warranty on every window on the house (120k worth) because they didn't keep the specified gap between the windows and the brick. :mad:

Dude, is is difficult to find anyone that knows what they are doing much less gives a shit. Forget about craftsmanship, that doesn't exist anymore. That is why I am trying to do this myself. I dont trust anyone to do the work.

Anyway, I've give it a go. Worst case I just have to replace the hardie board.

Anyway, I can't find that Commscope anywhere. How about Monoprice exterior? https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=12732
 

pendragon1

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Dude, is is difficult to find anyone that knows what they are doing much less gives a shit. Forget about craftsmanship, that doesn't exist anymore. That is why I am trying to do this myself. I dont trust anyone to do the work.

Anyway, I've give it a go. Worst case I just have to replace the hardie board.

Anyway, I can't find that Commscope anywhere. How about Monoprice exterior? https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=12732
would work fine too.
 
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