Can I add a gtx 1060 ? (HP 6300 Pro/i5-3470/PSU 320W)

Jungstar

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Hello

I bought an old desktop for $160 with 1 TB HDD, 8gb ram and an i5-3470 quad core. I'm looking to add a GTX 1060.

* The PSU says "max 320W continuous output" and 90% rating. 1060 uses 120W. ( Remaining i5-3470 (77w), small fan, DVD, 1TB HDD, 256 SSD)
* There is no 20/24 pin connector, the MB gets power from a six pin and a 4 pin next to the CPU and there is also a small 6 hole connector pin (with only 4 thin wires going in) to the MB.
* The HDD gets power from a 4 pin connector on the MB.
* The DVD gets power from a 4 pin connector on the MB. (The SSD is also connected via this one)


1) Is 320W enough? I know the standard answer is get 400W. But why.... I don't see CPU + storage > 140W

2) How do I power it - with what? I know the 1060 get up to 75W from the MB but it needs another +55 from the six pin connector. I can split the Six pin connector going into the MB or I can use a SATA power to Six pin?

See pictures (PSU image i Googled) and drawings of MB

Best,
Jungstar

all important is like this:
c03645875.jpg


This is all the PSU gives to us...
HP PS-4321-1HB out.JPG
HP PS-4321-1HB.JPG


20170402_043532[1].jpg


So where do I get the power from? Do I split the 6 pin?

:)
 

Araxie

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Depending on how "old" may be the machine that PSU may have lost some efficiency and capacity but the rest everything seems fine, however if you still want to try it, your best option to power the GTX 1060 would be to use SATA to Molex adaptor Splitter from the remaining cable used in the HDD according your pic, and then use Molex to PCI-E 6Pin adaptor.. that 6 Pin connector your mobo uses is not a standard one so it won't work with PCI-E Standard.

Also, yes.. 320W is just Enough for your machine if you don't play "stress test, unrealistic load games". the CPU won't ever reach that 77W mark that TDP is calculated with iGPU load under max load scenarios so in that department you are fine, the HDD should about 8W load and SSD should be about 3W. it seems ok for me.
 

motqalden

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I would probably run but i would not risk it. 1060 recommends minimum 450w PSU and while full load your system will likely only pull 200 watts from the wall that is still stressing a crappy no name PSU. Splurge and get a new PSU or get a 1050ti if your budget won't allow that.
 

Araxie

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I would probably run but i would not risk it. 1060 recommends minimum 450w PSU and while full load your system will likely only pull 200 watts from the wall that is still stressing a crappy no name PSU. Splurge and get a new PSU or get a 1050ti if your budget won't allow that.

crappy no name PSU? that show itself how little you know about the OEM used by HP or Dell.. which in most cases is Lite-ON. probably one of the best in the market, since.. just ever. but they are just focused on OEM/custom Power Supplies, I would trust in most Lite-ON PSUs more than most of the most known brand specially in the long term.
 

Jungstar

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Thanks. I have no need for 24 hours stress tests finding prime numbers or mining bitcoins :)
Age - When I opened it I was expecting the PC to be dusty and dirty. It was not. I have not cleaned it before taking pics and it shines and looks very clean. I checked the HDD it only has 77 days of runtime and 88 cycles (but I think it was replaced), however, the bios is from 2012, so it's old.
Thanks for your suggestion, I think it's worth doing (and fun!). Right now I'm running a 1050ti and it's a huge step up from a Lenovo workstation laptop with a Nvidia Quadro K1100M, but I think the GTX 1060 offers 80% more power and it's only 100USD more.

Question: the HDD drive SATA power originates from a 4-pin connector on the MB - is that a problem? (4 pin to 6 pin...). The Intel Q75 Express Chipset supports an i7-2600K that is up to 95W + fan and essentially we are "only" looking for ~ 53W of power (HDD 8W + 1060 120w - 75w from PCI-e).
(this website actually states that you can draw 12v x 8amp x 2 lines = 192W from a 4 pin http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atx12v4 - I have no clue I'm just googling and reading...sounds like absolute max)

Also, the MB only have three lines in (6-pin, 4-pin and the small one, as above).

Do you still think it's a good idea? I appreciate your time and expertise!

Oscar
 

Araxie

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It should in theory able to support that load, the SATA will not have any issue with that kind of load, only issue may be present is in the way the the mobo do the things in this case, what it do is simply separate the 12V line from the 6pin connector where it receive the power from the PSU, one from the PCI-E Rails and the other for peripherals (SATA/Molex etc). so if it have a good power circuitry it may not even be a problem ever, if not then it may produce degradation in those lines causing an eventual failure in the peripheral output however it may take years for this to be produced with that kind of load.
 

Araxie

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Yes indeed you can skip one step and go straight to the 6 pin PCI-E adapter.

And yes, all of this was guessing about a Lite-ON PSU, well from now it may just be a matter of testing I don't think any major issue can appear.

happy testing =D it's always fun to test "weird" things, don't forget to keep us updated.
 

Araxie

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main problem with that is the fact that it need to work with a 24Pin/20+4Pin motherboard connector together to power On at the same time as the rest of the machine, the science it's easy as it utilize the same green/black that power on the PSU from the 24pin motherboard connector with an aditional splitter to power on the external PSU, it's the same used in other external PSU devices, or additional PSU methods like <this one> and <this one> That of course would be the ideal choice to just add another PSU and solve any power problem, the main issue with this is the fact that the OP mobo utilize a customized motherboard connector and in any case it would be needed to explore and find which one it's the "power on PSU" cable to apply a method similar to < this one> but with a customized connector or cables..
 

David-Duc

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The SATA power connectors is only rated for ~30 watts IIRC. Converting them to PEG 6-pin which is rated for 75 watts is a disaster waiting to happen. Once you have seen a melted connector due to high power/current draw, you'll never touch those adaptors again.
 

Jungstar

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Have you seen the above happen? Any solutions from your point of view?
I also found this discussion and real measure of power supply quite interesting: Max 200W for i5 + 1060
 

Araxie

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The SATA power connectors is only rated for ~30 watts IIRC. Converting them to PEG 6-pin which is rated for 75 watts is a disaster waiting to happen. Once you have seen a melted connector due to high power/current draw, you'll never touch those adaptors again.

leaving out the 3.3v as it have basically no use for an adapter, SATA Power connector have as far I know 9amp of capacity for 5v and 12V which it's about 108W and 13amp full capacity including 3.3V. 156W.. so a connector rated to run at 156W across their 15pins should be theoretically able to do what the OP is attempting to achieve. I may be wrong but as far I know the standard current per pin for SATA is about 1.5amp so the connector should be able to handle 22amp of current before any damage.
 

David-Duc

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leaving out the 3.3v as it have basically no use for an adapter, SATA Power connector have as far I know 9amp of capacity for 5v and 12V which it's about 108W and 13amp full capacity including 3.3V. 156W.. so a connector rated to run at 156W across their 15pins should be theoretically able to do what the OP is attempting to achieve. I may be wrong but as far I know the standard current per pin for SATA is about 1.5amp so the connector should be able to handle 22amp of current before any damage.
The sata connector only has 3 pins for each rail, 1 of each is already dedicated for sensing. That leave you with 2 pins of 12v@1.5 A which translate into 12 x 3 = 36 watts. Very far from your 156W. The 12v can't and won't go through all 15 pins.
 

kirbyrj

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Does it have standard ATX size mounting? You can get an eVGA 450W or a Corsair 430W PSU for $20-25 shipped AR. PSU is probably good enough, but just doesn't have enough connectors.
 

Emission

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Does it have standard ATX size mounting? You can get an eVGA 450W or a Corsair 430W PSU for $20-25 shipped AR. PSU is probably good enough, but just doesn't have enough connectors.

The problem for OP is that the motherboard doesn't use a standard 24-pin ATX connector, it uses some OEM concoction of custom connectors.

The SATA power connectors is only rated for ~30 watts IIRC. Converting them to PEG 6-pin which is rated for 75 watts is a disaster waiting to happen. Once you have seen a melted connector due to high power/current draw, you'll never touch those adaptors again.

While I would normally agree, the draw in this case shouldn't be anywhere near 75w. It would more likely be 120W total minus 75W from the slot = 45W from the PCI-E 6-pin. Given that it won't likely be loaded 100% for considerable amounts of time, this shouldn't be an issue. Worst case scenario, OP could in theory slightly underclock the 1060 and drop the TDP down to like 105-110W and should be plenty safe.
 

DTN107

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Ah stop fiddling with that silly PSU.

Just get one of these adapters and use a regular PSU.

 

Jungstar

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SO FAR SO GOOD!!!!

I got a little sidetracked with work but I managed to install an EVGA 1060 SC 6 GB - I used one of these SATA 15pin to 6pin PCI Express Card Power Cable and used a splitter (here) so I'm taking the power from two different SATA cables (that origin different places).

I have no intentions of doing crazy overnight stress testing... the whole PC cost me 155 USD with an i5-3470 (3.4GHz) and now the GTX 1060 which I got for $220 = $375.

If it breaks down, I'll let you know but there are no issues so far after playing a few hours of BF1!
 

whateverer

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Cool man!

Yeah, that system shouldn't use more than 250w peak, as long as you don't over-volt/overclock anything. Enjoy :D
 

drckml

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SO FAR SO GOOD!!!!

I got a little sidetracked with work but I managed to install an EVGA 1060 SC 6 GB - I used one of these SATA 15pin to 6pin PCI Express Card Power Cable and used a splitter (here) so I'm taking the power from two different SATA cables (that origin different places).

I have no intentions of doing crazy overnight stress testing... the whole PC cost me 155 USD with an i5-3470 (3.4GHz) and now the GTX 1060 which I got for $220 = $375.

If it breaks down, I'll let you know but there are no issues so far after playing a few hours of BF1!

Will you explain the whole process in details and simpler? Would love to do this as my first PC but it's a little hard to follow. I lost it at the part where you have to use an adapter.
 

Jungstar

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Will you explain the whole process in details and simpler? Would love to do this as my first PC but it's a little hard to follow. I lost it at the part where you have to use an adapter.

OK

General: You take power from the available SATA power connectors. I wanted to be safe - so I took it from two different sata cables and connected them.


1) I got power from a) HDD sata and b) DVD power. (they are each attached to different places on the MOBO, hence more safe)


2. You convert those to a 6 pin power connector. You need a 2 x sata to 6 pin and for me I also needed a 6 pin extender.

That is really it.

Unfortunately, I don't have the parts anymore but see below. If you want to fit a larger GPU you can also turn the cooler 90 degrees clockwise so it extends over the ram slots. I believe the max with is 35mm., but the 1060 mini is perfect! i think I had the EVGA.

bDtYu


See here

bDtYu
 

Jorona

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Can you get a tight picture of the load table on the side of the PSU?

The only thing I worry about is if the minor rails/sata power are begin generated on the motherboard. If that's the case then it may not be a pure pass through from the 12v rail of the PSU. Then instead of torching your PSU if/when this fails, it's gonna torch your MoBo/Ram/CPU/Etc.
 
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