Build Ray's watercooling system! i.e. spend my money.

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Eulogy

2[H]4U
Joined
Nov 9, 2005
Messages
3,124
Ok,
I'm looking at getting a watercooling system. This isn't for silent PC, but for better-than-air cooling.
I'll start off by saying for now, I only want to cool the CPU/NB. Maybe RAM as well?
I'd like it to be 3/8" tubing. I don't really have room to rummage around 1/2".
Here's what my system is:
Abit IP-35 vanilla
Q6600
4 sticks G.Skill RAM (4x2GB)

I'd like it to be as quiet as possbile, but it needs to allow me over-the-top cooling. I know, can't much have the best of both worlds, right?
I currently have an Ultra 120 Ex. for heatsink, with two 120mm fans mounted on it in push/pull config. Everything else cooling wise is stock.

Total I have 4-5 120mm fans just laying around, waiting to be used!

I have, lets say $400-$500 to play with. It'd be cool if I could include the GPU in on this, but I don't have a final idea on what one I'm getting. Probably whatever is the next "mid range" one. For now I have an 8800GTS 320MB. I wouldn't mind spending a bit more later on down the road for a new block for whatever GPU I settle on.

As future proof as possible would be nice. Though, I'm sure the only thing that much changes are the blocks when needed.

So, pretend I just gave you $450 for the system I outlined, and said "gimme!". What would you do, and why?
 
MCR320 for radiator : Cheap, effective, performs well with quiet fans (40-50$)
Laing DDC + Petras top : Top of the line performance, small, quietish (100$)
Dtek Fusion : One of the top two blocks for cooling quad cores (65$)
Swiftech MCW30 : Simplest, lowest restriction chipset block, nothing more is needed (30$)

3/8" Masterkleer tubing + Wormdrive clamps : cheap, effective (10-15$)
Misc costs : there are always other things to spend money on (25$)

Total : 260-290$


For GPU cooling later (depending how hot the card is) add a block and maybe another radiator. The MCW60 is a nice universal GPU block that will most likely work on just about any card present and future.
 
Erasmus354 said:
MCR320 for radiator : Cheap, effective, performs well with quiet fans (40-50$)
Laing DDC + Petras top : Top of the line performance, small, quietish (100$)
Dtek Fusion : One of the top two blocks for cooling quad cores (65$)
Swiftech MCW30 : Simplest, lowest restriction chipset block, nothing more is needed (30$)

3/8" Masterkleer tubing + Wormdrive clamps : cheap, effective (10-15$)
Misc costs : there are always other things to spend money on (25$)

Total : 260-290$


For GPU cooling later (depending how hot the card is) add a block and maybe another radiator. The MCW60 is a nice universal GPU block that will most likely work on just about any card present and future.
Click to expand...

I'm just looking on Petra's site, but some of this only comes in 1/2"?
Can I just put 3/8" barbs on it on my own?
 
Eulogy said:
I'm just looking on Petra's site, but some of this only comes in 1/2"?
Can I just put 3/8" barbs on it on my own?
Click to expand...

I don't really understand why you want 3/8 tubing. 1/2 doesn't really require more room or anything. If you are worried about kinking, you can use some AR15 buffer springs or those other coils that people slip around tubing to keep it round and unkinked.

3/8 just unnecessarily hurts your performance potential most of the time.
 
hmm, perhaps send him an email asking if you could order with 3/8" barbs instead. Yes you can put your own barbs on though.
 
Alien1099 said:
I don't really understand why you want 3/8 tubing. 1/2 doesn't really require more room or anything. If you are worried about kinking, you can use some AR15 buffer springs or those other coils that people slip around tubing to keep it round and unkinked.

3/8 just unnecessarily hurts your performance potential most of the time.
Click to expand...

I beg to differ, 3/8" tubing has a very very very very very small effect on temp (under 1c increase under extreme conditions). It is also easier to route ;)

As long as components have a G1/4" thread, you can put 3/8" barbs but on Petra's shop, you can specify what barb size on many parts and on those who doesn't offer a choice, just buy some extra 3/8" barbs.

 
Xilikon said:
I beg to differ, 3/8" tubing has a very very very very very small effect on temp (under 1c increase under extreme conditions). It is also easier to route ;)

As long as components have a G1/4" thread, you can put 3/8" barbs but on Petra's shop, you can specify what barb size on many parts and on those who doesn't offer a choice, just buy some extra 3/8" barbs.

Click to expand...

Yep, wasn't 3/8" tubing attributed to a 0.4c CPU temperature loss over 1/2" tubing? lol.
 
Xilikon said:
I beg to differ, 3/8" tubing has a very very very very very small effect on temp (under 1c increase under extreme conditions). It is also easier to route ;)

As long as components have a G1/4" thread, you can put 3/8" barbs but on Petra's shop, you can specify what barb size on many parts and on those who doesn't offer a choice, just buy some extra 3/8" barbs.

Click to expand...

Arcygenical said:
Yep, wasn't 3/8" tubing attributed to a 0.4c CPU temperature loss over 1/2" tubing? lol.
Click to expand...

That's good to hear. I thought I had read that somewhere, but didn't want to say anything.

I'm seriously thinking of just putting the GPU in the loop as well, just because. Should I add a 2nd rad to accomplish that?
Here was my idea.

Pump --> CPU --> rad --> GPU --> rad --> res --> pump

I realize that's probably going to net a lot of tube routing and such, and also four hole in my case for it, but I think that'd let me do some pretty serious cooling.
I made a fake rad out of some paper to the dimensions of the MCR320. I can mount two on this case in a somewhat neat fashion.

Also, of note. I know it's a searchable topic, but is a res OK? I know, someone will say "no, do a T-line", but, I'm going for simplicity, and from my standpoint, a res is easiest. Color me ignorant though!
 
No, a reservoir is a great thing to add since it will bleed very easily and the Swiftech MicroRes is very cheap (~20$). A T-line is cheaper but it would be harder to bleed.

As for the 3/8" not causing issues, it was a watercooling expert, Cathar, who did the testing all the way to 1/4" tubing IIRC and the difference between the best and the worst is less than 2C.

You can add a second radiator to the loop but you might reduce the flow greatly and replacing by a single Thermochill PA120.3 would be more efficient (a PA120.3 is about equal to a MCR320+MCR120) and would be able to cool all you got there fine. Getting a single radiator would help you solve the installation issues with multiple radiators.

My own project is a PA120.3 for a 8800GTS (EK FC8800 GTS block) and Q6600 (D-Tek Fuzion with the nozzles kit) with a single PA120.3 pumped by a MCP355 (DDC 18W) with Petra's top. Adding the northbridge to the loop would be ok since it dump less than 30w, same if you add the mosfet blocks as well but then it's not the heat dissipation which is the issue but the flowrate with that many blocks. It can be solved however with a 2nd pump.

 
Xilikon said:
No, a reservoir is a great thing to add since it will bleed very easily and the Swiftech MicroRes is very cheap (~20$). A T-line is cheaper but it would be harder to bleed.

As for the 3/8" not causing issues, it was a watercooling expert, Cathar, who did the testing all the way to 1/4" tubing IIRC and the difference between the best and the worst is less than 2C.

You can add a second radiator to the loop but you might reduce the flow greatly and replacing by a single Thermochill PA120.3 would be more efficient (a PA120.3 is about equal to a MCR320+MCR120) and would be able to cool all you got there fine. Getting a single radiator would help you solve the installation issues with multiple radiators.

My own project is a PA120.3 for a 8800GTS (EK FC8800 GTS block) and Q6600 (D-Tek Fuzion with the nozzles kit) with a single PA120.3 pumped by a MCP355 (DDC 18W) with Petra's top. Adding the northbridge to the loop would be ok since it dump less than 30w, same if you add the mosfet blocks as well but then it's not the heat dissipation which is the issue but the flowrate with that many blocks. It can be solved however with a 2nd pump.

Click to expand...
Would two smaller pumps be better than one? Like, say I did this:
pump1 --> CPU --> MOSFET --> rad1 --> pump2 --> GPU --> NB --> small rad? --> res --> pump1

Also, since this new light about 1/4 tubing came to be, would that be OK?
Really, right now, I'm just looking to hit a good stable 3.6 on my Q6600. I can't seem to do this on my CPU without going >1.5VCore, for whatever reason (here: http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1237714). Nothing extreme, really. But keeping ambient case temps down also would be a big plus, etc. etc. And 1/4 tubing would be BEST for routing etc., obviously.
 
Eulogy said:
Would two smaller pumps be better than one? Like, say I did this:
pump1 --> CPU --> MOSFET --> rad1 --> pump2 --> GPU --> NB --> small rad? --> res --> pump1

Also, since this new light about 1/4 tubing came to be, would that be OK?
Really, right now, I'm just looking to hit a good stable 3.6 on my Q6600. I can't seem to do this on my CPU without going >1.5VCore, for whatever reason (here: http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1237714). Nothing extreme, really. But keeping ambient case temps down also would be a big plus, etc. etc. And 1/4 tubing would be BEST for routing etc., obviously.
Click to expand...

I don't suggest going with 1/4" since you would have a hard time finding the right barbs. The current market offer 1/2" and 3/8" so it would be easier. IMHO, 3/8" offer the best in a performance/ease of use point of view.

 
Xilikon said:
I don't suggest going with 1/4" since you would have a hard time finding the right barbs. The current market offer 1/2" and 3/8" so it would be easier. IMHO, 3/8" offer the best in a performance/ease of use point of view.
Click to expand...

6mm ID fittings are easy to come by. For you over in the colonies you can get them here or McMaster-Carr also has quite a selection. Otherwise they are available here in Europe all over the place whether you want barbs, push-fits, or compression fittings.

3/8" is okay, but 8mm ID (5/16" for Americans) offers essentially the same performance as 3/8" and is a hell of a lot easier to plumb your system.
 
I'm talking about the north america market. Beside Sharka, there isn't a lot of places we can find those fittings but with some research and enough time, you can get anything :)

 
Xilikon said:
As for the 3/8" not causing issues, it was a watercooling expert, Cathar, who did the testing all the way to 1/4" tubing IIRC and the difference between the best and the worst is less than 2C.
Click to expand...

Actually it showed a 1.7c difference between 1/2" and 6mm tubing...... 3/8" is ten times easier to route and bend than 1/2". Take it down to 6mm and you have a piece of cake.
 
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