BSOD loop (Critical Process Died) - New build computer - Can't boot from even USB

bagelnagel

Weaksauce
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PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($324.76 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard ($189.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($157.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Inland Premium 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($104.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: PowerColor Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB Red Dragon Video Card ($409.99 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: ARCTIC F8 PWM 31 CFM 80 mm Fan ($11.98 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: ARCTIC F8 PWM 31 CFM 80 mm Fan ($11.98 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: ARCTIC BioniX F120 (Black/Red) 69 CFM 120 mm Fan ($14.17 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: ARCTIC BioniX F120 (Black/Red) 69 CFM 120 mm Fan ($14.17 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: ARCTIC BioniX F120 (Black/Red) 69 CFM 120 mm Fan ($14.17 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: ARCTIC BioniX F120 (Black/Red) 69 CFM 120 mm Fan ($14.17 @ Amazon)
Total: $1268.36
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-11-07 11:24 EST-0500


I built a new computer for myself. Only thing I kept were 2 SSD's and the PSU (Seasonic Prime Ultra 80+ Titanium 750W). I was able to boot from the SSD that had Windows on it once, but then whenever I tried to start again I would get BSOD (Critical Process Died). I'm assuming I messed up with having previous drivers on the SSD. Disconnected the 2 older SSDs, left the M.2 SSD on the MB. Created 2 bootable USBs, 1 via Rufus, the other from MS Creation Tool. I used September 2019 ISO for the Rufus USB. I flashed the mobo to a newer version, 1202. Would restart so many times, before I was able to get to installing windows on the M.2 SSD. Computer would either reset, or BSOD. I memtested, took out a single DIMM of RAM, switched them, ran sfc /scannow when it was possible to get to the command line. DISM wouldn't work. I was able to install Windows 10 on the SSD, but whenever it restarted to finish the installation, BSOD.

I'm at my wits end. I don't know if it's the mobo but I think it is. I was on the phone with ASUS for close to 2 hours. Took out the CMOS battery, took out the GPU, etc etc, to see if the LED light status would tell us anything.

Buddy of mine created a Linux USB, and I couldn't get it to even "try Ubuntu without installing". If the mobo was DOA, it would be one thing, but it's a right tricky bastard by allowing me to go into BIOS settings, even sometimes attempt to install Windows, but not be able to boot. Any thoughts?
 
What kind of power supply are you using?

What memtest did you use? How long did it run?

Do you have a different video card you could use just to test?

There is a newer bios available also you could try.
 
What kind of power supply are you using?

What memtest did you use? How long did it run?

Do you have a different video card you could use just to test?

There is a newer bios available also you could try.

I am using a Seasonic Prime 80+ Ultra Titanium 750w power supply. Purchased last year.

I used memtest 86 for around 8 or 9 passes, 0 errors.

I do have a different video card, a 980ti from my build in the sig. Would the new GPU be an issue?

Last night I updated to the most recent BIOS version, no resolution to this issue.
 
I would try the other video card. At this point it's the simplest part to swap out.
 
I'd try removing everything but your SSD (1), CPU, Mem (1 stick) and see if you can install w10 successfully.
 
do you have the newer firmware on the inland drive that had been talked about in the hot deals inland thread.. i don't have one so never really paid close attention to what it was suppose to fix but maybe that's a possibility? i could be completely wrong but figured it was worth a shot mentioning since it looks like you've tried most the important stuff.
 
You memory... those are not ideal sticks for Ryzen. You might want to look into raising the DDR voltage a tick or two and watch your SOC voltage as that might need a bump as well.
 
You memory... those are not ideal sticks for Ryzen. You might want to look into raising the DDR voltage a tick or two and watch your SOC voltage as that might need a bump as well.

My memory is on the QVL for the motherboard - what about them is not ideal for Ryzen?
 
My memory is on the QVL for the motherboard - what about them is not ideal for Ryzen?

There are numerous threads about that ram. Also, being on the QVL list really doesn't mean much unfortunately. I bet this this the root of the flakiness. The issue with this ram is it takes more voltage and some massaging to actually work in some cases.

For ex. recent threads...

https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/...3200-only-stable-at-stock-speeds-2133.260764/
https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/3700x-memory-issue.259788/
 
Should be easy enough to check. Just run the RAM at 2133 and see if everything works.
 
There are numerous threads about that ram. Also, being on the QVL list really doesn't mean much unfortunately. I bet this this the root of the flakiness. The issue with this ram is it takes more voltage and some massaging to actually work in some cases.

For ex. recent threads...

https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/...3200-only-stable-at-stock-speeds-2133.260764/
https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/3700x-memory-issue.259788/

Thanks for the information, I'll check when I get back home. FYI I've been running the ram at stock setting (the mobo defaults the RAM speed to 2666).
 
Update - I got a new mobo, Gigabyte X570 Aorus Elite, with new RAM that's on its QVL... and still getting errors. I'm going to try and flash the BIOS first. I already tried both sticks, then each stick on their own. Next thing I'll do is try my other SSD, then the NVME (only 1 drive is plugged in at a single time). I'll also try different GPU - but this now sounds like a CPU issue? I'm completely flabbergasted. Any thoughts?
 
You have to narrow the source of the issue down. By changing the gear up, you just reset everything. Test one thing at a time. Try to narrow the issue down to find the culprit. Btw, did you test the previous ram at a slower speed first?

Again, the QVL list means jack, its not a guarantee. That said I've never bothered to check the QVL list in my decades of building rigs... ever.
 
You have to narrow the source of the issue down. By changing the gear up, you just reset everything. Test one thing at a time. Try to narrow the issue down to find the culprit. Btw, did you test the previous ram at a slower speed first?

Again, the QVL list means jack, its not a guarantee. That said I've never bothered to check the QVL list in my decades of building rigs... ever.

Both sets of ram I ran at stock speed - I did not OC them in any way.
 
There are numerous threads about that ram. Also, being on the QVL list really doesn't mean much unfortunately. I bet this this the root of the flakiness. The issue with this ram is it takes more voltage and some massaging to actually work in some cases.

For ex. recent threads...

https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/...3200-only-stable-at-stock-speeds-2133.260764/
https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/3700x-memory-issue.259788/

So that 2nd thread indicates to me that it's either an UEFI issue or CPU (memory controller) issue. I'm updating the new mobo right now to at least ABBA 1.0.0.3 ABBA as suggested. If I continue to have problems after that, I'll order a new CPU to see if it's an issue there.
 
So that 2nd thread indicates to me that it's either an UEFI issue or CPU (memory controller) issue. I'm updating the new mobo right now to at least ABBA 1.0.0.3 ABBA as suggested. If I continue to have problems after that, I'll order a new CPU to see if it's an issue there.

Stop ordering more stuff before you've figured out the culprit.
 
Stop ordering more stuff before you've figured out the culprit.

My apologies if I'm sounding a bit frustrated. I've tried multiple times with different RAM DIMM configurations, different MB's. I've tried to to install Windows on a NVME SSD, a SATA SSD, even just the USB and nothing else attached. I've tried different GPU's on the first MB, although not yet on the second. What other things could I remove/change in order to better identify the culprit? I've run everything stock, no modifications.

The only thing left that I can think of would be the CPU.
 
My apologies if I'm sounding a bit frustrated. I've tried multiple times with different RAM DIMM configurations, different MB's. I've tried to to install Windows on a NVME SSD, a SATA SSD, even just the USB and nothing else attached. I've tried different GPU's on the first MB, although not yet on the second. What other things could I remove/change in order to better identify the culprit? I've run everything stock, no modifications.

The only thing left that I can think of would be the CPU.

It cannot be all the gear that is bad... but it might be the process or how you are going about it? Also by buying and returning more and more gear, you are impacting the landscape for everyone. Ya cannot treat free returns as your parts bin right?

Hmm for now, I'd start by listing out what parts you have to work with. Then we can get an idea of what yer working with.

There are certain settings in bios that can prevent stable operation, like for example disabling gear down which then auto sets memory timing to 2T. Manually setting cmd rate to 1T = insta stall on boot. There's a bunch of lil things like that to give ya an idea.
 
It cannot be all the gear that is bad... but it might be the process or how you are going about it? Also by buying and returning more and more gear, you are impacting the landscape for everyone. Ya cannot treat free returns as your parts bin right?

Hmm for now, I'd start by listing out what parts you have to work with. Then we can get an idea of what yer working with.

There are certain settings in bios that can prevent stable operation, like for example disabling gear down which then auto sets memory timing to 2T. Manually setting cmd rate to 1T = insta stall on boot. There's a bunch of lil things like that to give ya an idea.

AMD Ryzen 7 3700X
ASUS X570 Tuf Gaming Plus
Gigabyte X570 Aorus Elite
Powercolor Red Dragon RX 5700 XT
16 GB x 2 Corsair Vengeance (CMK32GX4M2Z3200C16)
16 GB x 2 Corsair Vengeance (CMK32GX4M2b3200C16)
Inland 1 GB NVME M.2 SSD PCIE 3.0
Samsung 850 EVO 250GB SATA III (FROM PREVIOUS BUILD)
Samsung 850 Pro 500GB SATA III (FROM PREVIOUS BUILD)
Seasonic Prime 80+ Ultra Titanium 750W (FROM PREVIOUS BUILD)
Nvidia GTX 980ti (FROM PREVIOUS BUILD)
 
Have you tried min component install that I suggested above? If you've swapped out just about everything now and the CPU is the only one left then (though it is rare) perhaps you did get a bad CPU.
 
AMD Ryzen 7 3700X
ASUS X570 Tuf Gaming Plus
Gigabyte X570 Aorus Elite
Powercolor Red Dragon RX 5700 XT
16 GB x 2 Corsair Vengeance (CMK32GX4M2Z3200C16)
16 GB x 2 Corsair Vengeance (CMK32GX4M2b3200C16)
Inland 1 GB NVME M.2 SSD PCIE 3.0
Samsung 850 EVO 250GB SATA III (FROM PREVIOUS BUILD)
Samsung 850 Pro 500GB SATA III (FROM PREVIOUS BUILD)
Seasonic Prime 80+ Ultra Titanium 750W (FROM PREVIOUS BUILD)
Nvidia GTX 980ti (FROM PREVIOUS BUILD)

Why'd you buy more corsair memory?? They are not ideal for Ryzen and you will have to "work" to get them play nice. I'd start with the tuf board, ONE stick of ram, the m.2 for ssd, the 5700xt, and your psu finally. Confirm that you can get the single stick working at the slowest speed. You'll have to raise the ddr voltage up. If that works, add the second stick.

Also, read this.

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/amd-ryzen-3000-best-memory-timings,6310-2.html

If you manage to get windows loaded, download SIV and run it on yer memory. Those are dual rank dimms with most likely hynix mfr, sub optimal for Ryzen. I assume you are only using two sticks?

http://rh-software.com/ <--use techspot mirror.
 
Do you have a multimeter to test the rails of your psu? While unlikely coming from a working system its worth testing it if only to eliminate it as the cause.
 
Have you tried min component install that I suggested above? If you've swapped out just about everything now and the CPU is the only one left then (though it is rare) perhaps you did get a bad CPU.

I currently have just the USB, 1 stick RAM, CPU, and GPU (as I don't have a APU). It can't even boot from the USB.
 

Why'd you buy more corsair memory?? They are not ideal for Ryzen and you will have to "work" to get them play nice. I'd start with the tuf board, ONE stick of ram, the m.2 for ssd, the 5700xt, and your psu finally. Confirm that you can get the single stick working at the slowest speed. You'll have to raise the ddr voltage up. If that works, add the second stick.

Also, read this.

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/amd-ryzen-3000-best-memory-timings,6310-2.html

If you manage to get windows loaded, download SIV and run it on yer memory. Those are dual rank dimms with most likely hynix mfr, sub optimal for Ryzen. I assume you are only using two sticks?

http://rh-software.com/ <--use techspot mirror.

I'm currently running the RAM at stock speed - not trying to do anything just yet to get them up to 3200. I'm at step one of your advice (getting a single stick to work at the slowest speed).

I'm trying to just boot up from the bootable USB! I can't even get the bootable USB to boot, let alone boot up from a SSD. The system restarts when I try or I get a BSOD (Critical Process Died, 0xC000021, Win32kfull.sys). I've tried on multiple boards, with multiple sticks, single each in different slots, different GPUs. I couldn't care less about getting my RAM to 3200 speeds, I just want to get in!!
 
I'm currently running the RAM at stock speed - not trying to do anything just yet to get them up to 3200. I'm at step one of your advice (getting a single stick to work at the slowest speed).

I'm trying to just boot up from the bootable USB! I can't even get the bootable USB to boot, let alone boot up from a SSD. The system restarts when I try or I get a BSOD (Critical Process Died, 0xC000021, Win32kfull.sys). I've tried on multiple boards, with multiple sticks, single each in different slots, different GPUs. I couldn't care less about getting my RAM to 3200 speeds, I just want to get in!!
no try and under clock the ram to 2100 speed or something like that....but it could be a bad board and or cpu as well unfortunately
 
Made the changes in BIOS. "Unexpected Kernel Mode Trap" BSOD on 2nd try.
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are you running this outside the case? if not, time too. also i would try this: pull the cmos battery and disconnect power cord, hit power button to drain the caps, pull the cpu and let it sit for a few minutes. then put the battery back in, remove all but one stick* of ram and power it up. let it sit for a minute. power it off and put the chip back in and see what happens.
*check your manual on single stick ram position. my asus board requires a single stick in slot 2.
 
View attachment 198801

are you running this outside the case? if not, time too. also i would try this: pull the cmos battery and disconnect power cord, hit power button to drain the caps, pull the cpu and let it sit for a few minutes. then put the battery back in, remove all but one stick* of ram and power it up. let it sit for a minute. power it off and put the chip back in and see what happens.
*check your manual on single stick ram position. my asus board requires a single stick in slot 2.

Absolutely will try this, but I have a question about pulling the CPU - what does that do to run the system without the CPU?
 
Absolutely will try this, but I have a question about pulling the CPU - what does that do to run the system without the CPU?
its sets the bios to no cpu and clears any settings for it. at least thats how i understand it. have had to so it several times over the years. also, when you re-seat the cpu make sure to put downward pressure on it to make sure the pins go as deep as they can.
 
think i would just rma the board and cpu back to store it came from for replacements if i couldn't figure something out by the end of today. (based on some of the threads here over the last couple of months)
 
think i would just rma the board and cpu back to store it came from for replacements if i couldn't figure something out by the end of today. (based on some of the threads here over the last couple of months)

I think it's a CPU issue - I've used 2 different boards now. Going to try out Pendragon's advice but if that doesn't work, back to Amazon the CPU goes with a notice that it's defective.
 
I think it's a CPU issue - I've used 2 different boards now. Going to try out Pendragon's advice but if that doesn't work, back to Amazon the CPU goes with a notice that it's defective.
I have seen at least 3 bad cpu threads of the 3 series this last year....so unfortunately it does happen. Considering how many they make and sell it makes sense i guess.
 
I have seen at least 3 bad cpu threads of the 3 series this last year....so unfortunately it does happen. Considering how many they make and sell it makes sense i guess.

Update - I got a new CPU in from Amazon. Tested it on the original board (ASUS X570 Tuf Gaming-Plus), but with a Noctua U9S instead of the stock cooler. No issues booting from USB, no restarts, install was easy as can be, and can boot from Windows. It was the CPU all along.

Amazon may get a lot of flak and maybe deservedly so, but their return policy and how quick and without fuss they were to send a new CPU to me scored some points in my book. Going to be returning the Gigabyte and the extra RAM without any issues either.

I appreciate everyone's help and patience with this. Now to install a lot of updates and drivers!
 
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