Asus VG248QE 144hz 3D Vision 2: The Official Thread

All you guys and your lightboost talk... might have to drop some cash on a goddamn gtx something or other... that, or you're all secretly working for nvidia (can't it be both?)
 
Cr4zy said:
LB at setting of 10 (one above lowest brightness) everything else default on standard.

Hm, are you using them on the standard mode? (or does lightboost ignore that bit :confused: )
They were both done at fairly low brightness settings, that was at LB of one above lowest because of the faster pulses. I don't use LB myself when gaming, it gives me eyestrain, albeit minimal but id prefer none :p

Maybe it's just BF3? It could be disabling the profile.

As for being red I found they were further from red, especially in LB I get a nice red tint which it removed, but I guess that's what's going to happen they can't all be the same!
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Well, I love your icc profile for the desktop at 20 brightness and 80 contrast (or 65 or 75 whatever I fancy); I think it has great depth and color.

The LB profile I was hoping would work but I'm thinking games are just their own creature. In general, games need high gamma and contrast, and your ICC as well as the other posted on overclock.net were both waay too dark to use in bf3. For ICC profile in games, I find that ASUS stock ICC they have on the disk (or one I make quickly using windows 7) seems to work best for brightness. I was hoping I could use yours and modify it to be lighter with windows 7 calibration tool but it totally messes with your colors and creates soemthing pretty generic. It's easiest to just use nvidia CP, I'm using something similar to VEGA's for gaming which I can mess with at desktop while the game is active and adjust how I like.

Thanks for your work though, if you keep working on it I'll definately keep trying your profiles! I'm using your first one for desktop now, then just switch it over to game.
 
Rattle said:
thanks guys, I don't notice much difference between 120hz with LB Vs 144hz No LB TBH, both feel great though.
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Vega said:
The difference is huge! I can instantly tell when LB is not on.
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It's quite normal to have these conflicting reviews of LightBoost.
Common causes are the following:

Human Factors
-- Your ability to track fast-moving objects; and your sensitivity to motion blur.
-- Whether or not you are used to CRT gaming. (LightBoost brings the CRT effect to LCD)
-- Some people growing up today, has never played on a CRT before. Such individuals may be less likely to notice quickly.
-- Some people only have a habit of eye-tracking only slower-moving objects.
-- Specific play styles. Strafing sideways & turning motions benefits more than walking forward.
-- Your sensitivity to input lag, flicker, etc. (You benefit more if you don't feel any effects from input lag or flicker)

Computer Factors
-- Ability to run fps=Hz. You really need 120fps@120Hz to get maximum LightBoost benefit.
-- Judder/stutter control. Some games/configurations judder so much, that it negetates LightBoost.
-- Framerate limits. Some games cap to 60fps, this needs to be uncapped (e.g. fps_max)
-- Faster motion benefits more. Not as noticeable during slow motion.
-- Specific games. e.g. Team Fortress 2 benefits far more than World of Warcraft.
-- Some games judder more with VSYNC ON, while others judder more with VSYNC OFF. Test opposite setting.
-- High quality mouse (preferably 1000 Hz gaming mouse). Ordinary mice adds too much judder.

Example of areas that benefit from eliminating motion blur:
-- Fast 180-degree flick turns in FPS shooting.
-- Shooting while turning, without stopping turning (easier on CRT or LightBoost)
-- Close-up strafing, especially circle strafing
-- Running while looking at the ground (e.g. hunting for tiny objects quickly).
-- Identifying multiple far-away enemies or small targets, while turning fast
-- Playing fast characters such as "Scout" in Team Fortress 2
-- High-speed low passes, such as low helicoptor flybys in Battlefield 3, you aim better.

For people who have gameplay styles in fast-action video games, such people can gain a massive competitive advantage during fast-motion activities, because you react faster. Without motion blur, enemies are easier to identify while you're still in fast motion. Even out of the corner of your eyes, even before you stop moving. Without motion blur, fast panning motion look as perfectly sharp as being stationary -- LightBoost measured 92% sharper motion than a 60 Hz LCD -- which yields a high-definition-in-motion experience when you play with an impulse driven display like CRT or LightBoost. As a result, there are several gamers (with certain game play styles) who gain a lot more frags when gaming with LightBoost.

Human reaction times are measured in hundreds of milliseconds; reducing human lag is useful. Even if you react a scant 20 milliseconds faster, that can still actually out-compensate an enemy that has less input lag than you. While it is noteworthy to mention some people say input lag is too high for them, for other people the input lag is not even felt or noticeable (It's important to note that there are many factors of input lag other than the display, too). For some people, the lack of motion blur (reduced human brain lag) far outweighs the minor (unnoticeable) input lag disadvantage of LightBoost; and have game scores that go up dramatically with LightBoost.
However, it is understandable, not everyone benefits, for various factors -- listed above.

It is important to know that even without LightBoost, these ASUS VG248QE's (and its sister BENQ XL2411T) are among the best 120 Hz LCD gaming monitors.
 
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can anyone tell me which one actually has less input lag, the VG248QE or the XL2411T? =)
 
RavnosCC said:
All you guys and your lightboost talk... might have to drop some cash on a goddamn gtx something or other... that, or you're all secretly working for nvidia (can't it be both?)
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unfortunately, lightboost works only with nvidia cards. there are posts about trying to decode the strobe commands so strobed backlight can be used with amd cards too. some samsung displays support it, although nvidia's lightboost is faster, see some experiences with it (elvn, mine)
 
Well I'm 35 and I remember crt lol, infact when I fired up this screen at 144hz I was amazed at how it was and I had a feeling of OMG i remember this !!! Maybe I did not engage LB correctly, I just got a VG248QE, I was using standard mode with brightness and contrast turned down, I used the reg. edit and I used the regular non hack method to turn on LB without the EDID file. I could turn 3d on and off in game using ctrl-T but I never noticed my screen dim or anything else. I did notice more input lag it seemed though... Maybe I did something incorrectly, I am running a 680 with newest drivers.
 
Good post Mark. It's funny, not only can I tell non-LB from LB, but also the steps of LB. When I smooth scroll text, I can tell if I am on the 10% LB setting or the 100% LB setting instantly.

I wish I could show people the difference between LB and non-LB with AFK camera spinning in Skyrim. That particular scenario is like perfect for demonstrating motion blur. It's what makes my Catleap cry. :(
 
Vega shoot me your settings in a PM and your steps and settings for LB pls, I think I am missing something.
 
Rattle said:
Vega shoot me your settings in a PM and your steps and settings for LB pls, I think I am missing something.
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Not PM, do it here. I am using your settings you posted before at 10% LB; I'd like to know if you've changed anything. I"m using contrast 75, but find I need to increase the LB setting in BF3 especially as it's kindof dark.
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JiTSa2ktoYo&list=UUYBxPCnM13zEWgNbixq84jA&index=1

Watch in 720p

3 Asus VG248QE @ 144Hz in Eyefinity

This footage was taken at PDXLAN this past weekend. I had a friend of mine playing trying it out and he said it was just freakin amazing.

This is only using one MSI Lightning 7970. For some stupid reason when I put the waterblock on one of my Lightnings it wouldn't post or anything. Tried putting the air cooler back on to see if that would work and nothing. The card is just dead. I just sent it out for RMA today. But when I was using the aircooler on the 2 of them and using these monitors its like gaming heaven.
 
oozish said:
Not PM, do it here. I am using your settings you posted before at 10% LB; I'd like to know if you've changed anything. I"m using contrast 75, but find I need to increase the LB setting in BF3 especially as it's kindof dark.
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I put the LB instructions in the first post.
 
NCX said:
I put the LB instructions in the first post.
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I'm confused. I wasn't talking about instructions, I'm running LB 24/7; I was interested in VEGA's settings if he's changed them at all. I'm using his nvidia CP recommendations from a point earlier in this thread. No big deal really, but anything helps and normal ICC profiles uploaded in this thread are all too dark for gaming.
 
I think I'm doing it wrong, I cannot adjust lightboost on my monitor, also if I have a VG24QE. am I supposed to use the registry hack?
 
Hey, I read lot of opposing comments and I would like to clarify a point.
I have an ATI 7950 video card and I was wondering with my current video card, if I will be able to:
- Play at 144Hz ?
- Watch 3D movies ?
- Play 3D games ?

I understand this monitor supports Nvidia 3D vision 2 with LB etc. but does that means it will only work with a Nvidia card (the LB for sure) and I will not be able to use at all the 3D features if I have an ATI card ? Based on my understanding, I will be able to use 3D (maybe not in game) but I would have to buy a Nvidia 3D set, right ? or I'm all wrong :D
Thanks!
 
Ya, you'll have to use the hack unless you buy a nvidia 3dvision kit. That's what I did and I love it. Games like BATMAN and DEADSPACE 3 are absolutely stunning in 3d! (with the help of HELIX mod); not to mention watching 3d videos, 3d pics and 3d movies on my blu-ray. Highly recommended. If you don't have the transponder thing then you have to do a reg hack which I didn't want to do which is why i bought the 3dvision kit for about 129
 
You are wrong, NJames, you won't be able to do the 3d without the nvidia card; and similarly see my post above. You will be able to play games at 144hz.
 
oozish said:
Ya, you'll have to use the hack unless you buy a nvidia 3dvision kit. That's what I did and I love it. Games like BATMAN and DEADSPACE 3 are absolutely stunning in 3d! (with the help of HELIX mod); not to mention watching 3d videos, 3d pics and 3d movies on my blu-ray. Highly recommended. If you don't have the transponder thing then you have to do a reg hack which I didn't want to do which is why i bought the 3dvision kit for about 129
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when I have LB on am I supposed to be able to change the nvidia lightboost setting on my monitor? cuz i cant...

The only evidence I have that it is working is by hitting ctrl-t in game, and it switches between 3d and 2d, does that mean LB is working? Because on desktop I see no evidence of it working... no color shift or brightness change.
 
Rattle said:
when I have LB on am I supposed to be able to change the nvidia lightboost setting on my monitor? cuz i cant...

The only evidence I have that it is working is by hitting ctrl-t in game, and it switches between 3d and 2d, does that mean LB is working? Because on desktop I see no evidence of it working... no color shift or brightness change.
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If it is flipping in and out of 3d in game with ctl-T then it's working in game; when you are in desktop, try to alter the OSD settings; you will only see contrast and lightboost options available to modify. It will only always be in LB mode if you've set the stereoscopic settings to be on 'ALWAYS' in the options (and not just 'when a 3d application is running). Are you saying when you hit menu and try to turn the LB from say 100% to 10% that's not working? If so, then yes, maybe something is whacky.

Also, if you switch the refresh rate to 144hz on desktop the monitor should black out and come back on. That's it turning LB mode off; now (at 144hz) you should be able to modify the brightness and all other options in the OSD.

**If you are in LB mode on the desktop and hit the menu button, it will say '3D Mode' in the upper right hand corner of the OSD
 
oozish said:
You are wrong, NJames, you won't be able to do the 3d without the nvidia card; and similarly see my post above. You will be able to play games at 144hz.
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Thanks oozish ! it's sad that ASUS doesn't quite simply state these information on the product description. Kind of confusing. Anyway, seems like finally I'm going for nvidia in my build ;)
 
oozish said:
If it is flipping in and out of 3d in game with ctl-T then it's working in game; when you are in desktop, try to alter the OSD settings; you will only see contrast and lightboost options available to modify. It will only always be in LB mode if you've set the stereoscopic settings to be on 'ALWAYS' in the options (and not just 'when a 3d application is running). Are you saying when you hit menu and try to turn the LB from say 100% to 10% that's not working? If so, then yes, maybe something is whacky.

Also, if you switch the refresh rate to 144hz on desktop the monitor should black out and come back on. That's it turning LB mode off; now (at 144hz) you should be able to modify the brightness and all other options in the OSD.

**If you are in LB mode on the desktop and hit the menu button, it will say '3D Mode' in the upper right hand corner of the OSD
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Something isn't correct then. Thanks for the info I'll have to wait till I get home to fix/mess with it.
 
I've gotten two more QE's in, so that makes three now that are pixel perfect. :thumb:

Asus has some pretty good quality control on these monitors from what I've seen.
 
OK I am at my wits end with this monitor, either it's defective or I'm an idiot. I followed the instruction, installed the EDID override driver, the reg file rebooted and every time I launch a game or even any of the nvidia setup 3d menus my system slows to a crawl...

even blops 2 menu it takes minutes to get past the first screen to even see the menu. I hit ctrl-t and disable LB and fps jumps up to normal. hit ctrl-t again and slide show.

I have confirmed LB is on I have it set to always in the Stereoscopic menu, it works fine on desktop, I see the brightness decrease and I can only change contrast and nvidia lightboost settings in monitor OSD settings...

Jump in anything even valley or setup wizard and slide show.. I'm fucking ready to put my fist thru this thing I want my 2.5 hours back so I can game....

you guys think my screen is fucked? Lightboost seems to work perfectly on desktop... I have a new gtx 680 that works fine otherwise...

Only thing weird i notice in the HOW TO is where it tells you go to control panel>Display>Adjust resolution then Verify “Enable Stereoscopic 3D settings for all displays” is enabled. I do not have this setting, is that because I have only 1 monitor?
 
No, your monitor is fine. You are missing one key step in the process. Once you get 2D Lightboost mode to "stick" on your monitor, you have to remove the check mark on enable 3D in the NVIDIA control panel.
 
Not having any luck, if I remove the check then it doesn't work at all..

Holy Crap In got it, and now I get it... remember that idiot comment !
 
Newegg, mine is pixel perfect, I would have git it from amazon but they were OOS
 
I just got my ASUS VG248QE shipped and sold by amazon with zero dead/stuck pixels and I decided to make a little video recording it at 240FPS with my gopro hero3 and thought you guys might like to take a look. I compared it right next to my old dell 2407WFP at 60Hz and the difference is all that I hoped for :)

http://youtu.be/Ax8NxWn48tY
 
Was hoping for a more one-sided conclusion than "buy what's available" from PCM, I guess I'll wait for that further post where it properly compares the XL2411T.

I live in Australia and the only (yes, only one) shop I can buy the ASUS VG248QE from has it priced at $575.80, which I'm not willing to spend, which means I'll have to buy from overseas either way so buying what's available isn't really an option for me :(.

P.S. What's the chance of damage and the turnaround on replacements if I order from overseas?
 
ISimmoI said:
Was hoping for a more one-sided conclusion than "buy what's available" from PCM, I guess I'll wait for that further post where it properly compares the XL2411T.
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So far, reports is showing that both seem to be very similar:
- 1ms panels, same size
- Both have a LightBoost mode that is virtually completely free of PixPerAn artifacts
- Both have reportedly the same input lag (~2ms) in non-LightBoost mode

I'm looking forward to seeing a comparison too!
 
Mark Rejhon said:
So far, reports is showing that both seem to be very similar:
- 1ms panels, same size
- Both have a LightBoost mode that is virtually completely free of PixPerAn artifacts
- Both have reportedly the same input lag (~2ms) in non-LightBoost mode

I'm looking forward to seeing a comparison too!
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I have some questions that haven't really been answered:

1- Does the LightBoost tricks add input lag, if yes what are we talking about, i heard 3ms?

2- I tried to setup a 3D stereoscopic with no IR emitter but i tricked it with "Discover Glasses" The old blue and red one. Is this working or i need to do it by the registry?

3- If i play in theater mode instead of game mode, do I have the same performance? or its just color related?

thanks a lot, I'm quoting you because your the best!
 
The different modes (game, theater, ect) only change the colours. I can't answer anything else.
 
Personally I don't think Lightboost mode add any input lag, and people seem to think I'm hacking whenever I play BF3 on it. If it was any worse I'm sure my accuracy would be off a bit.
 
I'd guess the possible lag would be from the frame "lighting up" at the end of the frame time, rather than sooner without lightboost. The transfer of the frame to the panel probably isn't different. Right or wrong?
 
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bmg said:
I'd guess the possible lag would be from the frame "lighting up" at the end of the frame time, rather than sooner without lightboost. The transfer of the frame to the panel probably isn't different. Right or wrong?
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This is my current working theory, one of us will need to do some input lag testing. I've shelved my input lag meter work to focus on my motion test work, which I'm aiming to launch during March (if possible).

There is some input lag LightBoost is adding. However, the faster reaction time caused by lack of motion blur, for many players, significantly outweighs whatever input lag is added by LightBoost. Even some professional competition gamers such as Team Exile 5, like LightBoost.
 
Tests are a bit inconclusive until I get a DVI splitter.
- LB off: My high speed video shows that both monitors are nearly identical in input lag with LB off. The 1000fps video show that the top-to-bottom scan goes darn near in sync with each other, less than half a millisecond difference between the two.
- LB on: They seem to go in sync with each other; within about 0.5ms

LB on versus off: I can't trust the results, I'm getting conflicting results -- one test showed LB/non-LB had 1 frame more lag OR less lag, in different test passes. The BENQ XL2411T almost seemed to have much less LightBoost input lag than the ASUS VG278H (a full frame less LightBoost input lag!) There are difficulties forcing only one monitor to do LightBoost, and when I do, the two monitors go slightly out of sync with each other. Due to using two outputs from my graphics cards, and getting an instance of tearing on one (but not the other) display, I am not 100% sure I trust my results since the tearing-on-one suggests my video outputs go unsynchronized with each other if one has LightBoost. There is an extreme challenge in keeping one monitor LightBoost enabled while the other monitor LightBoost off; they both want to turn on LightBoost simultaneously, so I have to unplug one when I toggle, and then when I plug back in, I get the tearing-on-one issue, which suggests the video outputs are not synchronized.

More testing will need to be done.
 
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PiERiT said:
Those of you in the US, you can get it for $245 from NCIX by price matching to B&H Photo and using a $20 referral coupon.
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What is NCIX's return policy for monitors like? I can't find anything specifically on their website.

I know B&H will take it back pretty much no questions asked without a restocking fee.

Edit: Nevermind I'm dumb and I found it. Restocking fee for anything not deemed defective. I'll stick with B&H just in case.
 
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