agreed 100%. here's a good shot that illustrates the concept.
Bloody nice work with the cables...
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agreed 100%. here's a good shot that illustrates the concept.
I'm sorry but this just doesn't make sense. Ask anyone in the forums. And I mean really EVERYONE, and they'll probably say the same as me. There's something else that I/You/We have missed. Clearly. But it's your computer and you have decided now, so let's put it behind us.
The problem is that BIOS doesn't allow for looser than I think it's 42 or 43 TRFC timings, and our GSkill sticks require at least 45. I've emailed Asus to release a BIOS that allows for higher timings without success. I have to underclock my RAM because of this.
Bloody nice work with the cables...
Yes, I only wish it was my work. My builds look nothing like that.
http://www.silentpcreview.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=51264
Probably the cleanest 3480 build I've seen, nicely detailed thread w/ pics too. Right up the with Swed's work. The tip regarding the "Nibbling Tool" is great, I have no more excuses.
That is horrible. How many people run into this problem? Could we petition Asus to fix it?
I found out that my 1066 G.Skill will only post at 1001MHz with TRFC set to 42 in bios. That means 300 or 333 FSB... but I can't get my CPU to overclock very well (so far) at those FSB's...
For some reason I can't seem to get anything above and including 3600MHz stable without really high voltages. Is it just the luck of the draw with chips? My luck can't be that bad
1.4250V (1.408 vdroop) failed for 320 x 11.5 (3680MHz) after 17 min
Now I'm trying 1.4375... but thats quite high for something under 3.7ghz
Also, I just tried speedfan, and it's giving me completely different temperatures than core temp OR hardware monitor (both the same). Which one should I be reading?
I haven't tried to O/C my E5200 on my P5E-VM HDMI, but I did try before on my G33M-DS2R, I got to more or less the same results. I got 300x12 stable through a fairly high voltage (1.40-1.45 IIRC) and never managed 12.5x300. So your results are not ridiculous IMHO.
A couple of notes:
- don't leave the voltage for DRAM, FSB, NB and PLL on Auto. You can maybe leave them on the lowest values to start with but you want to have control over them. Who knows what happens to these Auto values when you change a setting or the other.
- If you have that G.Skill memory issue, then I recommend to go for 300MHz bus (*12 or 12.5 or whatever you can manage) and choose the 1000MHz setting from the 200 strap.
- have you done the pencil mod? At these high voltages the vdroop is quite significant.
Thanks for the tips
Right now, I got 320 x 11.0 = 3520MHz stable at 1.4000V (1.384 Vdroop) stable for 8 hours, and 320 x 11.5 = 3680MHz stable at 1.4375V (1.416 Vdroop) stable for 10.5 hours.
However, I can't get the RAM to run at 1066 using 320 FSB as I had hoped... so I'm trying out 333 or 300 FSB... It seems that with my chip it's impossible to get 3800+ MHz anywhere CLOSE to stable without doing 1.4875+ Vcore (1.464-1.472 Vdroop), so I gave up on that.
I'm in the middle of trying to get 337x11.0 = 3696MHz stable... hopefully I can get 3.7 Ghz one way or another, with ~33x FSB or ~300... then I can work on getting RAM stable at ~1000MHz.
I left DRAM at 2.10V since the very beginning, but didn't run it to 1066, so RAM won't make my OC unstable... but for the most part I left PLL, NB, SB, etc on auto. My question is... if I put them on the lowest setting, and one of them causes my OC to be unstable... how do I know which one it is, and how do I know it's not just Vcore?
well, i have no access to the sound acceleration settings. Anyone else have a solution to this? Or know how i can acces the acceleration settings as in the sound controller i can't find it.Audio synchronization may be lost on systems using Realtek HD Audio adapters. This appears to be a problem in the Realtek drivers, a workaround is to open the Sounds and Audio Devices control panel to reduce the hardware acceleration for playback to the "Basic acceleration" level.
I have the Asus P5E-vm Hdmi mobo, and i am having an onboard sound issue...The problem seems to be that during playback of x264 videos the audio, or it seems even more specifically the Voice track, plays back out of synch at a VERY high pitch/speed...like chipmunks. I was using the latest divx player as for me it seems to yield the best picture. The site lists this known issue
well, i have no access to the sound acceleration settings. Anyone else have a solution to this? Or know how i can acces the acceleration settings as in the sound controller i can't find it.
Ok, vlc works, but the picture on the divx player is much more vibrant, and more 'HD' looking. The vlc picture appears a little dithered or something...not as deep.
re: realtek azalia...do i have that on the mobo? I updaded the driver for the onboard sound...from here
Vista Driver (32/64 bits) Driver only (ZIP file) R2.16 2009/2/18 33093k GO GO GO
Tried it...so far so good..the WMP classic seems to deliver a nice picture for x264's...it was just a little odd on istall what with have to run that other app looking for previously installed codec packs and it wanting me to delete tons of others? i didn't and it runs ok...Now of course if i open a 264 w/ my divx player it turns into a screech fest...
Thanks MassiveOverkill ...I'm using the latest BIOS but I don't think you'll have a problem.
I think it's more important for you to get to a setting that will allow you to run your RAM at or close to 1000MHz (as it looks like you won't be able to go any higher). Going from 3.6 to 3.7 is interesting per se but performance-wise it won't be significant, and bench-wise you won't break any record anyway (as it looks like you didn't get one of those 'special' samples). Plus at this point a little increase in frequency means a much higher voltage and therefore a lot more heat.
Adjusting PLL, NB, FSB (I'd say SB can stay on AUTO: it's not really relevant to your O/C) is a trial and error process. Sometimes you get a good feel about how your board works and you can guesstimate better how these settings work together. To make sure you got these 3 right, you want to achieve stability with a lower multiplier (like 10 or even lower) so that you KNOW that it's not your CPU the problem. Once all the other settings are set (even RAM), then you can work on raising the multiplier and finding the right CPU voltage.
if its like the g45 drivers, in order to get hdmi sound to work you just need the intel gfx/hdmi audio drivers which is what you obviously already have, just uninstall or disable the realtek ones and it should be fine, i remember installing the realtek drivers and i also lost my hdmi sound but with an uninstall it worked.Im having a problem with the onboard video, through hdmi, on my 46" 1080p. everytime I turn the monitor off and on it reverts to 800x600, then i got the latest chipset driver from intels site and fixed the problem it installed a sound driver too, now i have no sound through hdmi, so i deleted the sound driver and installed the realtek one and still didnt work so i uninstalled all sound devices from the manager and did the realtek only and still no sound, but it says its working properly, any one know anything about this problem?
Hi, my board was having the same no POST error with a Q9450 and Corsair XMS2 4GIG kit, I got a POST with an old D820 and junk 133MHz RAM, updated the bios to 0505, back to good kit, no good, if I put EITHER component in there then no POST.
Nutted it out this morning, if I use the old CPU and RAM, get POST, overclock the old RAM to 166MHz, swap CPU to the 9450, get POST, Ram now shows an overclock to 200Mhz.
This is how far I am at the moment, I have updated BIOS again to the 0506 that was released while I was asleep, doesn't make a difference, if I put my Corsair in then no POST, I have tried boosting the voltage to 2.1, no POST. I don't want to try too many things as the cheap 133MHz ram is now at 200MHz on 2.1V and I don't really want to fry my new board.
Has anyone else solved these compatibility problems, the Corsair RAM is CM2X2048-6400C4DHX it isn't on the compatibility list but it's little brother the 1gig sticks are
FYI if anyone ran into this problem:
To get the front audio ports to work on a p180 mini & p5e-vm hdmi, you have to use the AC97 port, and set it to AC97 in the bios.
For some reason the HD audio on this case seems to trigger a reboot whenever you plug anything in.
I was able to eventually get 3.707GHz stable for 24 hours on P95 with RAM set to DDR2-1009 (or some close number)... with Vcore 1.432V
However, a week later (now), P95 and Orthos (just started using) always fails <2hrs...
I dropped my FSB from 337 to 336 to see if it will help... still testing.
Any idea why this might be happening? I was able to get FSB 338 to go 7+ hours a week ago on the same voltage... but it error'ed and I had to drop it to FSB 337 (which was stable for 24 hours)
weird maybe there is a bad connection or grounding or something in my case
I ended up going 334MHz, and got 8hr stable on orthos.
NicholTL (or anyone else knowledgeable), do you know why this might have happened? Could heat (~72C on each core on P95, but ~65C max on normal load) damage the chip in a matter of two weeks?
I'm seeking ways of improving airflow in my case, and so far it's been getting slightly better (waiting for a 120mm fan), so hopefully I will be able to stay under 70C in P95.
Can you post all your voltages?
I believe I had 1.4625Vcore (1.432Vdroop), 2.10V for RAM, and almost everything else set on auto. I forgot to turn them down after all the testing
I'll run a test with voltages set on minimum for NB, SB, etc, and see how that goes, and if I can eliminate mobo voltage as a possibility.
On a slightly interesting note, following advice from a G.Skill rep, I was able to run FSB at 266MHz, and get the RAM to 1066 stable, but not at FSB 320. RAM at just over 1000 (1009 or something right now) works fine though.
Can anyone comment on the onboard (analog) audio for this mobo? I am replacing my current motherboard and I'm looking to get a P5E-VM as a replacment. I want to go without using my X-Fi Extreme Audio to free up some space. I know it's just onboard sound, but some are decent and some just suck.
Thanks,