Asus P5E-VM HDMI: best matx ever?

agreed 100%. here's a good shot that illustrates the concept.

3480inside.jpg

Bloody nice work with the cables...
 
I'm sorry but this just doesn't make sense. Ask anyone in the forums. And I mean really EVERYONE, and they'll probably say the same as me. There's something else that I/You/We have missed. Clearly. But it's your computer and you have decided now, so let's put it behind us.

My decision is based on the results I've got. I'm quite sure I haven't missed anything. Like bing pointed out above:

"<< [exhaust fan ] << [hs ] << [hs fan] << [ front fan (optional)] << cool fresh air"

and that's just how I had it but the result was totally surprising to me too. I agree with all of you...as I said, it makes complete sense. But the end result was terrible. It's probably the case then.

The Ultra m998 has the front fan buried down the bottom front corner of the case...behind and above it are nothing but hard drives. Parallel to the HS, at the front of the case, there are no fans up top so I guess it's just not getting any fresh air. The reason why it may be working best the way it is now is that the side window has large predrilled holes which bring in all the fresh air (or maybe it lets the hot air out). THen there are the predrilled holes in the bottom rear of the case and the exhaust fan parallel with the HS in the rear.

For whatever reason, however the reason, this is how I got the best results and it's too bad I had to be different...because I still don't understand why its' better this way.
 
The problem is that BIOS doesn't allow for looser than I think it's 42 or 43 TRFC timings, and our GSkill sticks require at least 45. I've emailed Asus to release a BIOS that allows for higher timings without success. I have to underclock my RAM because of this.

That is horrible. How many people run into this problem? Could we petition Asus to fix it? :p
I found out that my 1066 G.Skill will only post at 1001MHz with TRFC set to 42 in bios. That means 300 or 333 FSB... but I can't get my CPU to overclock very well (so far) at those FSB's...

For some reason I can't seem to get anything above and including 3600MHz stable without really high voltages. Is it just the luck of the draw with chips? My luck can't be that bad :(

1.4250V (1.408 vdroop) failed for 320 x 11.5 (3680MHz) after 17 min

Now I'm trying 1.4375... but thats quite high for something under 3.7ghz

Also, I just tried speedfan, and it's giving me completely different temperatures than core temp OR hardware monitor (both the same). Which one should I be reading? :confused:

sz7d3o.jpg
 
Yes, I only wish it was my work. :D My builds look nothing like that. :(

http://www.silentpcreview.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=51264

Probably the cleanest 3480 build I've seen, nicely detailed thread w/ pics too. Right up the with Swed's work. The tip regarding the "Nibbling Tool" is great, I have no more excuses.

I admire the craftmanship and time spent working on it. But I have neither the time nor the desire to do this sort of thing myself. For one, it's time spent not using my computer. For two, I change one component or the other so often (add a fan, remove a fan, add a HD, remove a HD, etc...) that this would drive me totally nuts.
 
That is horrible. How many people run into this problem? Could we petition Asus to fix it? :p
I found out that my 1066 G.Skill will only post at 1001MHz with TRFC set to 42 in bios. That means 300 or 333 FSB... but I can't get my CPU to overclock very well (so far) at those FSB's...

For some reason I can't seem to get anything above and including 3600MHz stable without really high voltages. Is it just the luck of the draw with chips? My luck can't be that bad :(

1.4250V (1.408 vdroop) failed for 320 x 11.5 (3680MHz) after 17 min

Now I'm trying 1.4375... but thats quite high for something under 3.7ghz

Also, I just tried speedfan, and it's giving me completely different temperatures than core temp OR hardware monitor (both the same). Which one should I be reading? :confused:

I haven't tried to O/C my E5200 on my P5E-VM HDMI, but I did try before on my G33M-DS2R, I got to more or less the same results. I got 300x12 stable through a fairly high voltage (1.40-1.45 IIRC) and never managed 12.5x300. So your results are not ridiculous IMHO.

A couple of notes:
- don't leave the voltage for DRAM, FSB, NB and PLL on Auto. You can maybe leave them on the lowest values to start with but you want to have control over them. Who knows what happens to these Auto values when you change a setting or the other.
- If you have that G.Skill memory issue, then I recommend to go for 300MHz bus (*12 or 12.5 or whatever you can manage) and choose the 1000MHz setting from the 200 strap.
- have you done the pencil mod? At these high voltages the vdroop is quite significant.
 
I haven't tried to O/C my E5200 on my P5E-VM HDMI, but I did try before on my G33M-DS2R, I got to more or less the same results. I got 300x12 stable through a fairly high voltage (1.40-1.45 IIRC) and never managed 12.5x300. So your results are not ridiculous IMHO.

A couple of notes:
- don't leave the voltage for DRAM, FSB, NB and PLL on Auto. You can maybe leave them on the lowest values to start with but you want to have control over them. Who knows what happens to these Auto values when you change a setting or the other.
- If you have that G.Skill memory issue, then I recommend to go for 300MHz bus (*12 or 12.5 or whatever you can manage) and choose the 1000MHz setting from the 200 strap.
- have you done the pencil mod? At these high voltages the vdroop is quite significant.

Thanks for the tips ;)

Right now, I got 320 x 11.0 = 3520MHz stable at 1.4000V (1.384 Vdroop) stable for 8 hours, and 320 x 11.5 = 3680MHz stable at 1.4375V (1.416 Vdroop) stable for 10.5 hours.

However, I can't get the RAM to run at 1066 using 320 FSB as I had hoped... so I'm trying out 333 or 300 FSB... It seems that with my chip it's impossible to get 3800+ MHz anywhere CLOSE to stable without doing 1.4875+ Vcore (1.464-1.472 Vdroop), so I gave up on that.

I'm in the middle of trying to get 337x11.0 = 3696MHz stable... hopefully I can get 3.7 Ghz one way or another, with ~33x FSB or ~300... then I can work on getting RAM stable at ~1000MHz.

I left DRAM at 2.10V since the very beginning, but didn't run it to 1066, so RAM won't make my OC unstable... but for the most part I left PLL, NB, SB, etc on auto. My question is... if I put them on the lowest setting, and one of them causes my OC to be unstable... how do I know which one it is, and how do I know it's not just Vcore? :confused:

Oh and I did the pencil mod the second day I got it because Vdroop was totally outrageous :p
 
Thanks for the tips ;)

Right now, I got 320 x 11.0 = 3520MHz stable at 1.4000V (1.384 Vdroop) stable for 8 hours, and 320 x 11.5 = 3680MHz stable at 1.4375V (1.416 Vdroop) stable for 10.5 hours.

However, I can't get the RAM to run at 1066 using 320 FSB as I had hoped... so I'm trying out 333 or 300 FSB... It seems that with my chip it's impossible to get 3800+ MHz anywhere CLOSE to stable without doing 1.4875+ Vcore (1.464-1.472 Vdroop), so I gave up on that.

I'm in the middle of trying to get 337x11.0 = 3696MHz stable... hopefully I can get 3.7 Ghz one way or another, with ~33x FSB or ~300... then I can work on getting RAM stable at ~1000MHz.

I think it's more important for you to get to a setting that will allow you to run your RAM at or close to 1000MHz (as it looks like you won't be able to go any higher). Going from 3.6 to 3.7 is interesting per se but performance-wise it won't be significant, and bench-wise you won't break any record anyway (as it looks like you didn't get one of those 'special' samples). Plus at this point a little increase in frequency means a much higher voltage and therefore a lot more heat.

I left DRAM at 2.10V since the very beginning, but didn't run it to 1066, so RAM won't make my OC unstable... but for the most part I left PLL, NB, SB, etc on auto. My question is... if I put them on the lowest setting, and one of them causes my OC to be unstable... how do I know which one it is, and how do I know it's not just Vcore? :confused:

Adjusting PLL, NB, FSB (I'd say SB can stay on AUTO: it's not really relevant to your O/C) is a trial and error process. Sometimes you get a good feel about how your board works and you can guesstimate better how these settings work together. To make sure you got these 3 right, you want to achieve stability with a lower multiplier (like 10 or even lower) so that you KNOW that it's not your CPU the problem. Once all the other settings are set (even RAM), then you can work on raising the multiplier and finding the right CPU voltage.
 
I have the Asus P5E-vm Hdmi mobo, and i am having an onboard sound issue...The problem seems to be that during playback of x264 videos the audio, or it seems even more specifically the Voice track, plays back out of synch at a VERY high pitch/speed...like chipmunks. I was using the latest divx player as for me it seems to yield the best picture. The site lists this known issue
Audio synchronization may be lost on systems using Realtek HD Audio adapters. This appears to be a problem in the Realtek drivers, a workaround is to open the Sounds and Audio Devices control panel to reduce the hardware acceleration for playback to the "Basic acceleration" level.
well, i have no access to the sound acceleration settings. Anyone else have a solution to this? Or know how i can acces the acceleration settings as in the sound controller i can't find it.
 
I have the Asus P5E-vm Hdmi mobo, and i am having an onboard sound issue...The problem seems to be that during playback of x264 videos the audio, or it seems even more specifically the Voice track, plays back out of synch at a VERY high pitch/speed...like chipmunks. I was using the latest divx player as for me it seems to yield the best picture. The site lists this known issue
well, i have no access to the sound acceleration settings. Anyone else have a solution to this? Or know how i can acces the acceleration settings as in the sound controller i can't find it.

Have you tried to use VLC? It's usually the best media player out there.

Did you install the Realtek Azala software?
 
Ok, vlc works, but the picture on the divx player is much more vibrant, and more 'HD' looking. The vlc picture appears a little dithered or something...not as deep.

re: realtek azalia...do i have that on the mobo? I updaded the driver for the onboard sound...from here
Vista Driver (32/64 bits) Driver only (ZIP file) R2.16 2009/2/18 33093k GO GO GO
 
Ok, vlc works, but the picture on the divx player is much more vibrant, and more 'HD' looking. The vlc picture appears a little dithered or something...not as deep.

re: realtek azalia...do i have that on the mobo? I updaded the driver for the onboard sound...from here
Vista Driver (32/64 bits) Driver only (ZIP file) R2.16 2009/2/18 33093k GO GO GO

Hmm not sure but do you have now a Realtek Audio section in your Control Panel?
 
Try this: http://www.cccp-project.net/

You'll never go back to VLC or anything else

Tried it...so far so good..the WMP classic seems to deliver a nice picture for x264's...it was just a little odd on istall what with have to run that other app looking for previously installed codec packs and it wanting me to delete tons of others? i didn't and it runs ok...Now of course if i open a 264 w/ my divx player it turns into a screech fest...
 
Tried it...so far so good..the WMP classic seems to deliver a nice picture for x264's...it was just a little odd on istall what with have to run that other app looking for previously installed codec packs and it wanting me to delete tons of others? i didn't and it runs ok...Now of course if i open a 264 w/ my divx player it turns into a screech fest...

Glad it's working for you.... :cool: I like the MPC-HC that comes with it, but it also includes ZoomPlayer if you prefer.

From the FAQ:
"Why CCCP? Because it achieves as much as possible with as little as possible. Other codec packs tend to either randomly not work, break the system, or install far too much cruft. With the CCCP, you know that when you install it properly, it just works. You don't need to mess around in the options to get it to work, and chances are it will resolve any other conflicts on install as well. CCCP was invented so you can "Uninstall everything else, install the pack and live happily ever after". That being said, for the adventurous there are pages of options available to tweak if you feel like it."

http://www.cccp-project.net/wiki/index.php?title=FAQ
 
so far none of the x64 versions work on 7 Ultimate x64


Edit: all right. so far none of them will install. neither x86 NOR x64. ive tried them all as administrator, compatibility for Vista, and even straight out. no go. it either tells me my OS is not supported, i do not have the requirements, or Does not support this operating system WNT_6.1P_64
 
I installed the Vista x64 Atheros LAN driver from the Asus web site under Windows 7 x86 Ultimate just fine. You need to run the installer in Vista compatibility mode. The Intel chipset drivers installed too.
 
I'm running windows 7 x64... when I tried installing drivers from the CD it won't load, saying windows 6.1 not compatible

i just went to device manager, right clicked whatever wasn't recognized >> update driver >> find yourself >> e:\ (cd drive), and it installed

hope that helps
 
Hello volks

I'm planning to exchange my HDD for a SanDisk SSD drive.

But will it work at all with my Asus P5E-VM HDMI (V1.00 / BIOS 0301 / Built date 10/30/07) I wonder ?

I try to avoid updating the BIOS because I heard about many problems.

Thank you for a little reply.
 
Yup, that's me :D

If Apex starts matching GSkill's price though (or when Vertex is released), I'll probably have my peeps start ordering from OCZ as their forum and tech support are much better.

The GSkill rep seems like he has a language barrier and really doesn't offer in-depth support like OCZ does.
 
I think it's more important for you to get to a setting that will allow you to run your RAM at or close to 1000MHz (as it looks like you won't be able to go any higher). Going from 3.6 to 3.7 is interesting per se but performance-wise it won't be significant, and bench-wise you won't break any record anyway (as it looks like you didn't get one of those 'special' samples). Plus at this point a little increase in frequency means a much higher voltage and therefore a lot more heat.



Adjusting PLL, NB, FSB (I'd say SB can stay on AUTO: it's not really relevant to your O/C) is a trial and error process. Sometimes you get a good feel about how your board works and you can guesstimate better how these settings work together. To make sure you got these 3 right, you want to achieve stability with a lower multiplier (like 10 or even lower) so that you KNOW that it's not your CPU the problem. Once all the other settings are set (even RAM), then you can work on raising the multiplier and finding the right CPU voltage.

I was able to eventually get 3.707GHz stable for 24 hours on P95 with RAM set to DDR2-1009 (or some close number)... with Vcore 1.432V

However, a week later (now), P95 and Orthos (just started using) always fails <2hrs...

I dropped my FSB from 337 to 336 to see if it will help... still testing.

Any idea why this might be happening? I was able to get FSB 338 to go 7+ hours a week ago on the same voltage... but it error'ed and I had to drop it to FSB 337 (which was stable for 24 hours)
 
does the onboard hdmi seem a little grainy? im using 1080p on my 46" lcd, and the asus probe shows my cpu at 13c for a q6600, doesnt seem so right.
also got cccp and played a 1080p movie and it seems skippy, is that normal, though the mobo said it handles bluray and all in 1080p
 
Im having a problem with the onboard video, through hdmi, on my 46" 1080p. everytime I turn the monitor off and on it reverts to 800x600, then i got the latest chipset driver from intels site and fixed the problem it installed a sound driver too, now i have no sound through hdmi, so i deleted the sound driver and installed the realtek one and still didnt work so i uninstalled all sound devices from the manager and did the realtek only and still no sound, but it says its working properly, any one know anything about this problem?
 
Im having a problem with the onboard video, through hdmi, on my 46" 1080p. everytime I turn the monitor off and on it reverts to 800x600, then i got the latest chipset driver from intels site and fixed the problem it installed a sound driver too, now i have no sound through hdmi, so i deleted the sound driver and installed the realtek one and still didnt work so i uninstalled all sound devices from the manager and did the realtek only and still no sound, but it says its working properly, any one know anything about this problem?
if its like the g45 drivers, in order to get hdmi sound to work you just need the intel gfx/hdmi audio drivers which is what you obviously already have, just uninstall or disable the realtek ones and it should be fine, i remember installing the realtek drivers and i also lost my hdmi sound but with an uninstall it worked.
 
Hi, my board was having the same no POST error with a Q9450 and Corsair XMS2 4GIG kit, I got a POST with an old D820 and junk 133MHz RAM, updated the bios to 0505, back to good kit, no good, if I put EITHER component in there then no POST.

Nutted it out this morning, if I use the old CPU and RAM, get POST, overclock the old RAM to 166MHz, swap CPU to the 9450, get POST, Ram now shows an overclock to 200Mhz.

This is how far I am at the moment, I have updated BIOS again to the 0506 that was released while I was asleep, doesn't make a difference, if I put my Corsair in then no POST, I have tried boosting the voltage to 2.1, no POST. I don't want to try too many things as the cheap 133MHz ram is now at 200MHz on 2.1V and I don't really want to fry my new board.

Has anyone else solved these compatibility problems, the Corsair RAM is CM2X2048-6400C4DHX it isn't on the compatibility list but it's little brother the 1gig sticks are

Having similar problems: http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?p=1033830289#post1033830289

I've seen a few reviews on newegg of people using this board with that memory no problems... may be an infrequent problem?
 
FYI if anyone ran into this problem:

To get the front audio ports to work on a p180 mini & p5e-vm hdmi, you have to use the AC97 port, and set it to AC97 in the bios.

For some reason the HD audio on this case seems to trigger a reboot whenever you plug anything in.
 
FYI if anyone ran into this problem:

To get the front audio ports to work on a p180 mini & p5e-vm hdmi, you have to use the AC97 port, and set it to AC97 in the bios.

For some reason the HD audio on this case seems to trigger a reboot whenever you plug anything in.

Hmm I don't know but mine works as expected: mini P180 + P5E-VM HDMI via HD Audio without a problem, from day one.
 
I was able to eventually get 3.707GHz stable for 24 hours on P95 with RAM set to DDR2-1009 (or some close number)... with Vcore 1.432V

However, a week later (now), P95 and Orthos (just started using) always fails <2hrs...

I dropped my FSB from 337 to 336 to see if it will help... still testing.

Any idea why this might be happening? I was able to get FSB 338 to go 7+ hours a week ago on the same voltage... but it error'ed and I had to drop it to FSB 337 (which was stable for 24 hours)

I ended up going 334MHz, and got 8hr stable on orthos.

NicholTL (or anyone else knowledgeable), do you know why this might have happened? Could heat (~72C on each core on P95, but ~65C max on normal load) damage the chip in a matter of two weeks?

I'm seeking ways of improving airflow in my case, and so far it's been getting slightly better (waiting for a 120mm fan), so hopefully I will be able to stay under 70C in P95.
 
weird maybe there is a bad connection or grounding or something in my case

Did you ever take the case apart? You can take apart the front panel/io thingy and there is a ground wire there. Make sure all your wires looks good and is still connected to something.
 
I ended up going 334MHz, and got 8hr stable on orthos.

NicholTL (or anyone else knowledgeable), do you know why this might have happened? Could heat (~72C on each core on P95, but ~65C max on normal load) damage the chip in a matter of two weeks?

I'm seeking ways of improving airflow in my case, and so far it's been getting slightly better (waiting for a 120mm fan), so hopefully I will be able to stay under 70C in P95.

Can you post all your voltages?
 
Can you post all your voltages?

I believe I had 1.4625Vcore (1.432Vdroop), 2.10V for RAM, and almost everything else set on auto. I forgot to turn them down after all the testing :(

I'll run a test with voltages set on minimum for NB, SB, etc, and see how that goes, and if I can eliminate mobo voltage as a possibility.

On a slightly interesting note, following advice from a G.Skill rep, I was able to run FSB at 266MHz, and get the RAM to 1066 stable, but not at FSB 320. RAM at just over 1000 (1009 or something right now) works fine though.
 
I believe I had 1.4625Vcore (1.432Vdroop), 2.10V for RAM, and almost everything else set on auto. I forgot to turn them down after all the testing :(

I'll run a test with voltages set on minimum for NB, SB, etc, and see how that goes, and if I can eliminate mobo voltage as a possibility.

On a slightly interesting note, following advice from a G.Skill rep, I was able to run FSB at 266MHz, and get the RAM to 1066 stable, but not at FSB 320. RAM at just over 1000 (1009 or something right now) works fine though.

I'm pretty sure the 'problems' you are having are because of your auto settings (maybe even the RAM). You have to bite the bullet and set NB, PLL and FSB on manual (like I said before, references and SB can stay on auto). When you try setting those 3, lower (temporarily) your multiplier and your memory to take them out of the equation.
 
Can anyone comment on the onboard (analog) audio for this mobo? I am replacing my current motherboard and I'm looking to get a P5E-VM as a replacment. I want to go without using my X-Fi Extreme Audio to free up some space. I know it's just onboard sound, but some are decent and some just suck.

Thanks,

Onboard audio is fine, and will support many channels no problem. Don't expect the kind of positional audio that an X-fi provides- if you are using it for gaming I would keep the X-fi. I have it turned off on my gaming box with an x-fi gamer edition, and the difference between the two (especially with stereo headphones) is noteworthy.
 
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