ASUS Announces ROG SWIFT PG278Q Premium Gaming Monitor

Sprayingmango

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I tweeted to JJ @ Asus and he actually replied and told me to e-mail him questions, so I sent a big e-mail with links to the threads on the ROG forums and on here. I hope we get some kind of response as to what is going on.

They can't just ignore this.
 

elvn

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That's good I hope JJ @ Asus does reply here. I hope you linked the later pages of this thread where the issue starts being reported because a hardforum thread can be intimidating from page 1 or even with the search function for some people :p

I don't think they are ignoring it in as much as they are RMA'ing them but it would be good to know what the actual issue is and whether ASUS is just issuing new ones and crossing their fingers or if they are actually targeting the faulty part and fixing it in any of them, even if refurbished - fixed ones.
 

nightrider

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Thanks Sprayingmango for contacting JJ from Asus.
It would be nice to know that Asus is aware of the issue and let owners/fans
know what that issue is and what the resolution is.

I only recently purchased and setup my Asus ROG Swift.
So reading this thread I obviously have concerns on the monitors longevity.
 

Sprayingmango

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So I did get a personal reply from JJ to my e-mail! I will not repost the entire thing, I will just say that he wrote a very detailed response and said they have about 25 ROG Swifts in the North American HQ that are first production batch that are working flawlessly. There are no known issues with the displays at this time, nothing that should concern most users. He said that Asus is constantly monitoring RMA's and nothing seems out of the ordinary. There were initial issues regarding drivers and getting G-Sync to function properly. He also said to not forget that while many people on forums only post when there is a problem, don't forget the vast majority of users without issues don't say anything.

It's nice to know that Asus is so active and monitoring RMA's, customer feedback, etc. It's great to know that they DO actually listen. :) I had the same concerns too after buying a ROG Swift and seeing so many people post with problems.
 

mope54

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I did. Yes the swift is not as crisp, but from where I sit when gaming I dont notice. All I see is amazingly smooth graphics with G-Sync. I will never game on a non-gsync screen ever again.
That's why I'm thinking. It didn't make sense to jump now with the other stuff so near around the corner but I just scored a Swift on CL for $700 and I'm thinking at that price I don't really want to wait for an IPS G-sync that is likely to have overdrive problems @ 2x the price.
 

pstack

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So frustrating. I'm doing a new build this weekend (dual 970s with a vii Hero and 4790k in an enthoo primo) and was looking to replace my 30" 2560x1600 Apple Cinema Display with the Swift due to the endless gushing by every single reviewer who got their hands on one of these int he last six months...

... until I dug deeper and found all the complaints about build quality, failures, buttons breaking, features ceasing to work, color banding at top of screen, bleedthrough band at bottom of screen, general washed-out look of the screen, SLI jitter and jutter... dead/stuck pixels...

Now I can't decide if I should just bite the bullet and hope it all works out and turns out to be an improvement over my ACD or if I should wait another year! It especially doesn't help that the only place I can find it is Newegg, so if I have trouble that'll be a real joy to deal with.

I also share the concern of some others in this thread about longevity. I've spent $3,300 on a display before. I've spent $1,700 on a refresh of the same version a few years later. In both cases, I bought them knowing and expecting that these were easily ten year monitors. I expect to get enough solid life out of a monitor that I grow bored with it and want something new before it even nears its final days... so I can hand it down to someone else to enjoy for a number of years, too.

Edit: I'm about to pull the trigger, despite all common sense and my gut feeling. Too bad I can't find it on Amazon, where I'd at least get a no-questions-asked return if it turned out to blow (although after 30 days, I guess I'd be dealing directly with Asus no matter what and it sounds like any issues not evident day one wont' show up for a few months).

Edit: Oh man, I just pulled the trigger on it. I hope I'm not going to regret this. I'm probably going to regret this!
 
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Armenius

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So frustrating. I'm doing a new build this weekend (dual 970s with a vii Hero and 4790k in an enthoo primo) and was looking to replace my 30" 2560x1600 Apple Cinema Display with the Swift due to the endless gushing by every single reviewer who got their hands on one of these int he last six months...

... until I dug deeper and found all the complaints about build quality, failures, buttons breaking, features ceasing to work, color banding at top of screen, bleedthrough band at bottom of screen, general washed-out look of the screen, SLI jitter and jutter... dead/stuck pixels...

Now I can't decide if I should just bite the bullet and hope it all works out and turns out to be an improvement over my ACD or if I should wait another year! It especially doesn't help that the only place I can find it is Newegg, so if I have trouble that'll be a real joy to deal with.

I also share the concern of some others in this thread about longevity. I've spent $3,300 on a display before. I've spent $1,700 on a refresh of the same version a few years later. In both cases, I bought them knowing and expecting that these were easily ten year monitors. I expect to get enough solid life out of a monitor that I grow bored with it and want something new before it even nears its final days... so I can hand it down to someone else to enjoy for a number of years, too.

Edit: I'm about to pull the trigger, despite all common sense and my gut feeling. Too bad I can't find it on Amazon, where I'd at least get a no-questions-asked return if it turned out to blow (although after 30 days, I guess I'd be dealing directly with Asus no matter what and it sounds like any issues not evident day one wont' show up for a few months).

Edit: Oh man, I just pulled the trigger on it. I hope I'm not going to regret this. I'm probably going to regret this!
I've had mine since October and I have none of the problems you're getting your panties in a twist about. I have a pair of 970s in SLI with an i7-4770 and the experience has been flawless so far.

You won't regret it!
 

Tych-0

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There is no point using ULMB on the desktop (as it's mostly static image anyway) and it might cause eye strain over long periods of time.

As mentioned earlier in this thread, the best way to choose which one you want to use is the following:

  1. On desktop use 144 Hz, set Nvidia control panel's global v-sync setting to G-Sync.
  2. If you want to run a game with ULMB instead, edit the profile for that game in Nvidia Control Panel and set the v-sync mode for the game to anything other than G-Sync (I usually use "off").
  3. Then you can just launch the game, hit the display's turbo button a few times to set the display to 120 Hz and play with ULMB.
  4. When you stop the game you get back to desktop with 144 Hz.

Is there a way to get it to switch automatically to 120Hz ULMB when loading a game. Like you I prefer to have 144Hz on my desktop and ULMB for most games (mostly BF4). It seems regardless of what I have my BF4 in game settings it stays at 144Hz and I have to change it to 120Hz with the button. Quite annoying.


To the guy worried about the longevity, I have one from the first shipments and it's working perfectly fine thus far. Of course this doesn't mean a lot, but I'd say it's true that when everything is working fine, you're usually not posting about it.
 

kasakka

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Is there a way to get it to switch automatically to 120Hz ULMB when loading a game. Like you I prefer to have 144Hz on my desktop and ULMB for most games (mostly BF4). It seems regardless of what I have my BF4 in game settings it stays at 144Hz and I have to change it to 120Hz with the button. Quite annoying.

Haven't found one, even Nvidia control panel only has options for "highest available". Then again it's not a big deal to hit the turbo button twice when you start thte game.
 

kalston

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Is there a way to get it to switch automatically to 120Hz ULMB when loading a game. Like you I prefer to have 144Hz on my desktop and ULMB for most games (mostly BF4). It seems regardless of what I have my BF4 in game settings it stays at 144Hz and I have to change it to 120Hz with the button. Quite annoying.


To the guy worried about the longevity, I have one from the first shipments and it's working perfectly fine thus far. Of course this doesn't mean a lot, but I'd say it's true that when everything is working fine, you're usually not posting about it.

Yes : use "refresh rate : application controlled" for the nvidia profile of the specific game then select 120hz in the game and nvidia won't override it with the max refresh rate.
 

deasnutz

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I had a problem with the original cable that shipped with the screen.

I swapped it out with an identical dp cable, and it no longer loses signal and or black screens like it did before.
 

Tych-0

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Yes : use "refresh rate : application controlled" for the nvidia profile of the specific game then select 120hz in the game and nvidia won't override it with the max refresh rate.

I can confidently report that unfortunately this does not work. It's what I've had mine set to all along.
 

kalston

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Well it works for me but I do need to disable g-sync globally as well (otherwise it goes into 120hz g-sync mode)

With my previous gtx 670 I could disable g-sync per game profile while leaving g-sync enabled globally and it did work (ie. it would switch to 120hz + ULMB upon launching the application). I have no clue why this doesn't work with my gtx 970, maybe because I also updated my drivers in between.
 

mope54

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I just finished calibrating mine and it rivals the monoprice zero-g IPS that I have. One of the nice things about the screen is the bezel's thin profile gives the impression of a larger screen, imo. There are differences between them that the IPS excels at regardless, but I was expecting something horrendous and that's just not the case.

The stand is also extremely well done. It adjusts easily and smoothly. It adds value and isn't just something that will do because it's free.
 
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Hi.

Can you create custom resolution at any refresh rate (say 55Hz and 72Hz) via nvidia control panel, will it work?
Or is the monitor is locked to 60, 85, 120 ,144?

Also, can ULMB be activated in custom refresh rates?
If so, whet is the lowest refresh rate that ULMB will be active at?

Note:
I don't own the Swift but I'm waiting for the 144Hz IPS model.
 

oopspowsurprise

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I've noticed recently that g-sync awareness is lost after some time. I don't know if it's the screen or my system.

I've got the main system on. I hit the power button for the screen to go "off", and then I left. I returned later(hour+) and turned the screen on. I saw in the Nvidia control panel that the 'Setup G-sync' link was not there. This means that G-sync will not function when I go into a game.

I noticed this when I was playing a game and the red light was not on, it was white. I hit the thumb stick for status, and it was showing normal mode for display port.

In order to have the system/monitor run in gsync, I'd need to do a restart.

Maybe latest drivers is the issue? I don't recall this issue with the previous geforce drivers.

On a cold boot, things work fine. However after some time, and after putting monitor "off", I need to perform a warm boot in order to get gsync back.
 

mope54

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the only problem I've found with mine is when I try to reset all settings it instead gives me the option to set light in motion on/off. weird error that I can't figure out how to resolve but I'm not sure I need to reset to factory settings too often so I'll probably just live with it rather than risking a more serious issue
 

Colonel Sanders

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the only problem I've found with mine is when I try to reset all settings it instead gives me the option to set light in motion on/off. weird error that I can't figure out how to resolve but I'm not sure I need to reset to factory settings too often so I'll probably just live with it rather than risking a more serious issue

That is normal. When you first turn on a Swift (the very first time) it asks you if you want Light in Motion on or off.
 

mope54

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Oh so it's actually resetting to stock settings and then immediately asking me that question?
I never get a reset confirmation (yes/no) so I thought it was glitching.

thanks for clearing that up :)
 

5150Joker

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Hi.

Can you create custom resolution at any refresh rate (say 55Hz and 72Hz) via nvidia control panel, will it work?
Or is the monitor is locked to 60, 85, 120 ,144?

Also, can ULMB be activated in custom refresh rates?
If so, whet is the lowest refresh rate that ULMB will be active at?

Note:
I don't own the Swift but I'm waiting for the 144Hz IPS model.

Tried setting custom refresh rates in the 120-200 range and only 121 worked, rest were out of range.
 

deasnutz

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I've noticed recently that g-sync awareness is lost after some time. I don't know if it's the screen or my system.

I've got the main system on. I hit the power button for the screen to go "off", and then I left. I returned later(hour+) and turned the screen on. I saw in the Nvidia control panel that the 'Setup G-sync' link was not there. This means that G-sync will not function when I go into a game.

I noticed this when I was playing a game and the red light was not on, it was white. I hit the thumb stick for status, and it was showing normal mode for display port.

In order to have the system/monitor run in gsync, I'd need to do a restart.

Maybe latest drivers is the issue? I don't recall this issue with the previous geforce drivers.

On a cold boot, things work fine. However after some time, and after putting monitor "off", I need to perform a warm boot in order to get gsync back.


Try a new cable. I had this issue and it turned out to be the cable that it shipped with.
 

oopspowsurprise

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Try a new cable. I had this issue and it turned out to be the cable that it shipped with.

I'll look into it. I don't have a spare one right now. I didn't think they could mess up a cable.

Another issue that I'm seeing now...

Earlier I said when I turned the monitor off, and then later came back turned it on.... no Gsync.

Well now, get this, I left the monitor on and it fell asleep after 10mins. Okay. I come back and later on I want to play a game. The game is in Gsync mode. No problems with that. However when I tapped the Turbo button, all of a sudden the frame rate stuttered like crazy. Single frames.

I'm thinking WTF is going on over here. After about 5-10 seconds it smoothed out. It didn't show which frequency the monitor was at. I hit the thumb stick and it showed the next frequency of the turbo.

This 'Turbo lag' was a first for me. Happened today. Never saw it before. This is insane.

So I restarted the system, and then it worked fine.

I've got Win8.1 64bit. I'm using the 347.25 drivers. I updated the drivers using the Geforce Experience application. I'm seeing these issues since updating to the 347.25 drivers.
 

Neon01

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I'd like to appeal to the masses and get some opinions - I've got another couple days (until the end of Jan) to return my Swift, and I'm on the fence about doing so. My unit appears pretty good - no stuck or dead pixels, BLB isn't horrible, uniformity is pretty good. BUT, it's got terrible gamma out of the box. By the tests I did, it was probably right around 1.7-1.8. I'm correcting this currently with Nvidia control panel, but I'm worried that a year down the road I will regret not swapping it for another one.

I've read quite a bit of this thread, and I understand that examples with lower-than-spec gamma aren't uncommon, but part of what drew me to this model was the TFTcentral review claiming almost spot-on (2.2) gamma right out of the box. I'm sure it's impossible to say with authority what the odds are that I'll just get another one with poor gamma, but is it worth keeping this, or should I try again with a different model?
 

mope54

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return it if you can't correct it with actual calibration but why would you return it if you successfully correct it?
 

Neon01

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return it if you can't correct it with actual calibration but why would you return it if you successfully correct it?

Because it's a kluge. Also, I'm nearly positive that color correction via nvidia control panel does not apply to all games and applications in fullscreen. The gamma correction function of the control panel seems to be working now for the Swift, but it's not working properly for my other display. I have to cycle from nvidia color settings to applications settings in control panel to get the proper gamma to take, and even then it messes it up in games again. I think the software is just buggy, and I hate to rely on it to get a decent image out of a very expensive monitor.
 

chenw

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Also some games do not play nice with calibration, they directly bypass any and every color profiles you have set and does its own thing with respect to colors.

One of the biggest offender I know of is D3, the only way I was able to solve it was run it in windowed mode, which loses G-Sync
 

Neon01

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that's why I told you to actually calibrate the monitor

This is essentially no different than using control panel - it's still software LUT being applied between input and output. It just makes sure that I'm hitting the numbers with more accuracy. I do have a calorimeter, but the software for it is garbage, and it doesn't play nice when using two different monitors.

And this is why I tend to try to buy monitors that look pretty good out of the box anymore.
 

Pechendko

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You should return it because 85% of games don't support any kind of color calibration or color corrections made in the video driver which is ridiculous considering how developers push for the prettier graphics every year.

Well, most of the games only have black levels slider only instead of the one for gamma.

For this you have to run games in windowed or fullscreenwindowed mode, and there's also a big chance you can get banned from some online games if you use an external app for the later.

Why even bother with mid to high settings in games if your monitor shows 1.7 gamma


I just don't get it why none of the monitor manufacturers include any kind of gamma adjustments in the OSD? They just don't want to confuse the consumer with the strange new controls or something?
 
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Neon01

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You should return it because 85% of games don't support any kind of color calibration or color corrections made in the video driver which is ridiculous considering how developers push for the prettier graphics every year.

Well, most of the games only have black levels slider only instead of the one for gamma.

For this you have to run games in windowed or fullscreenwindowed mode, and there's also a big chance you can get banned from some online games if you use an external app for the later.

Why even bother with mid to high settings in games if your monitor shows 1.7 gamma


I just don't get it why none of the monitor manufacturers include any kind of gamma adjustments in the OSD? They just don't want to confuse the consumer with the strange new controls or something?

Thanks. You folks convinced me. Added bonus - I just went on Amazon's site and it looks like exchange for exact replacement is an option! I had bought it from them when it was $732 and was concerned I'd have to pay $800 to get a replacement. Plus they'll send out the replacement right away and I can send mine back when I get it. Love Amazon!

Fingers crossed for the next one.
 

Exyia

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You should return it because 85% of games don't support any kind of color calibration or color corrections made in the video driver which is ridiculous considering how developers push for the prettier graphics every year.

pmuch - I got convinced into buying an i1 DisplayPro back when I had the UM95 - what a waste of time and money.

this whole craze of "color calibration" is ridiculous.

someone needs to create a webpage game where users have to choose between two identical, differently color-edited images. one is 100% accurate and one is off. I bet 99% of the users who go through that test wouldn't tell or care about the difference. I bet then they would see how pointless chasing color calibration is for them (actually, maybe I should take all my free time and do this....do something productive....)

an image doesn't instantly become eye-popping gorgeous when the colors become "accurate". you're not aligning planets - you're just choosing how red reds are, how blue blues are, etc etc
 

kalston

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I'd like to appeal to the masses and get some opinions - I've got another couple days (until the end of Jan) to return my Swift, and I'm on the fence about doing so. My unit appears pretty good - no stuck or dead pixels, BLB isn't horrible, uniformity is pretty good. BUT, it's got terrible gamma out of the box. By the tests I did, it was probably right around 1.7-1.8. I'm correcting this currently with Nvidia control panel, but I'm worried that a year down the road I will regret not swapping it for another one.

I've read quite a bit of this thread, and I understand that examples with lower-than-spec gamma aren't uncommon, but part of what drew me to this model was the TFTcentral review claiming almost spot-on (2.2) gamma right out of the box. I'm sure it's impossible to say with authority what the odds are that I'll just get another one with poor gamma, but is it worth keeping this, or should I try again with a different model?

Did you try pcmonitorsinfo icc profile? (combine that with : contrast 49, Red 96, Green 97 and Monitor Calibration Wizard to keep the profile locked in place). Some games will indeed require manual brightness/gamma/contrast (whatever the in-game setting is called) adjustment but not all of them so it's a hassle but it's not in the end of the world either.

How are you measuring your gamma? Don't play around with lagom gamma test too much on a TN panel, it's grossly inaccurate.

You can try returning it but don't get your hopes up, reading the forums I suspect that extremely few Swifts were actually calibrated out of the box (besides the ones the reviewers got).
 

mope54

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pmuch - I got convinced into buying an i1 DisplayPro back when I had the UM95 - what a waste of time and money.

this whole craze of "color calibration" is ridiculous.

someone needs to create a webpage game where users have to choose between two identical, differently color-edited images. one is 100% accurate and one is off. I bet 99% of the users who go through that test wouldn't tell or care about the difference. I bet then they would see how pointless chasing color calibration is for them (actually, maybe I should take all my free time and do this....do something productive....)

an image doesn't instantly become eye-popping gorgeous when the colors become "accurate". you're not aligning planets - you're just choosing how red reds are, how blue blues are, etc etc
you might be using crappy software or not calibrating your monitor correctly.

there's a significant difference between an uncalibrated monitor and one that is. you may not notice it in eye-popping colors but at a minimum it'll bring marginal values into line. my monoprice IPS monitor was crushing blacks so severely and then blowing whites out that I had to calibrate it and you'd definitely be hard pressed to not see any difference.

on this swift I was able to pull it in line with the IPS monitor. the differences are subtle between uncalibrated and calibrated but they're not unnoticeable.

that said, I didn't notice much difference when I used the stock software. When I used argyll, however, calibrations (both inside and outside games even those like D3) became substantially better.

[argyll + dispcalGUI]
 
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elvn

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I like to remind people that color calibration is often done right up against the monitor in a dark room and that the way your eyes see brightness, contrast, and saturation varies a lot in different ambient lighting conditions. Calibration can provide a good baseline but you should tweak your settings further to the room lighting you are in because it is going to change those settings to you eyes. You also shouldn't put your desk against the wall like a bookshelf because it acts as a catcher's mitt for direct light pollution which can also wash out your settings. In my pc gaming "studio" I face my 3 panel corner desk out from the corner, facing away from the wall. I keep floor lamps at the end of the room that the windows are in in an attempt to keep the lighting conditions more normalized between day and night, cloudy days, etc, and I keep a desk lamp in line with my monitor array on each end (no light sources at all behind the monitor faces, only behind the backs of the monitors).

There used to be multiple settings on monitors - one for reading (less contrast/more pale), one for multimedia, and one for games. That's because there really isn't one set of settings that does all of them best. You can tweak your settings for more pop and contrast for games (games whose asset's color accuracy and color range really aren't accurate to begin with vs real world in most cases) and those settings will likely not be the most comfortable for web browsing for example. Personally I use a different 27" 2560x1440 ips monitor for desktop/apps and browsing so I set my swift to what I like best for games.
I like both monitors to have bright enough whites and colors yet I don't like staring at bright web pages so I use the nosquint addon for firefox and if I am using chrome for something I use "turn off the lights" addon which does a shaded overlay that you can click through. Basically I make most web sites (on a per site basis which nosquint remembers) medium to dark grey with black text as needed with nosquint (hardforum doesn't require it with it's dark theme). I also edit the settings of most apps to be med to dark grey (chat apps, 3rd party file manager, 3rd party text editor, etc). This allows me to keep my monitor's settings popping for what I consider best for gaming.
Nosquint
nosquint_ff-addon.png


When I first got my swift I was disappointed with the pale blacks and it not being as saturated as I would like but I've used both supplied color profiles and manual tweaking and like where I have it now more from tweaking than anything personally. It really looks good even with high detail wallpaper photos that I can open on both monitors at the same time to compare. I used to keep both of my monitors less bright before I started using medium grey backgrounds on reading material a few years ago but now I can make colors shine more, especially for gaming (without being neon of course but still "lush" color and bright whites, higher contrast).

Going back to multiple settings on monitors in the past - many tv's have multiple sets of settings available now even though pc monitors often don't. In my living room I keep 4 sets of named settings on my samsung which I change between different times of day and lighting conditions. If I don't change the settings when the lighting environment changes, the display looks horribly different - either very very pale or bloomingly over bright, or subtly not saturated or paled blacks, etc. These settings also make reading a file manager on the tv with a htpc either really painful or very easy to read. This same type of thing happens to your monitor to one degree or another so your calibration settings, while a good baseline to start from, go out the window if you don't have the exact lighting conditions to your eyes as the calibrator had when it was calibrated.
 
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Neon01

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Did you try pcmonitorsinfo icc profile? (combine that with : contrast 49, Red 96, Green 97 and Monitor Calibration Wizard to keep the profile locked in place). Some games will indeed require manual brightness/gamma/contrast (whatever the in-game setting is called) adjustment but not all of them so it's a hassle but it's not in the end of the world either.

How are you measuring your gamma? Don't play around with lagom gamma test too much on a TN panel, it's grossly inaccurate.

You can try returning it but don't get your hopes up, reading the forums I suspect that extremely few Swifts were actually calibrated out of the box (besides the ones the reviewers got).

Yes, I tried it. It helped, but not much. I believe the site even says it was only intended to adjust for a native gamma of around 2.0, so it wouldn't be enough to cover my problem anyway.

I admit I initially used the Lagom "test". I really didn't need the test to show me what was wrong though - everything was ridiculously washed out, contrast was absolute crap, and colors were completely lifeless. Full black was more like light gray, even with pretty high levels of lighting in the room. Not to mention a setting of -.3 on gamma in Nvidia control panel fixed things right up. Whether it's actually 1.7 or 1.8, it's clearly WAY off.

I did later confirm by measuring it with my i1Display2 calorimeter and iRite software. Though, as I said before, I've had nothing but trouble with using .icc profiles with multiple monitors, so I don't tend to use them. Sometimes they take, sometimes not so much. Maybe if I could find a better calibration s/w to use with my meter...
 

Neon01

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the provided software didn't really impress me
try argyll + dispcalGUI and see if your opinion changes

Wow, this software looks great, but I can't get it to show my i1Display2 in the "instrument" box. I triple checked the drivers are the latest and windows 8.1 is recognizing the hardware just fine. No joy though. Ever had that issue?
 

kalston

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Mar 10, 2011
Messages
1,300
Yes, I tried it. It helped, but not much. I believe the site even says it was only intended to adjust for a native gamma of around 2.0, so it wouldn't be enough to cover my problem anyway.

I admit I initially used the Lagom "test". I really didn't need the test to show me what was wrong though - everything was ridiculously washed out, contrast was absolute crap, and colors were completely lifeless. Full black was more like light gray, even with pretty high levels of lighting in the room. Not to mention a setting of -.3 on gamma in Nvidia control panel fixed things right up. Whether it's actually 1.7 or 1.8, it's clearly WAY off.

I did later confirm by measuring it with my i1Display2 calorimeter and iRite software. Though, as I said before, I've had nothing but trouble with using .icc profiles with multiple monitors, so I don't tend to use them. Sometimes they take, sometimes not so much. Maybe if I could find a better calibration s/w to use with my meter...

Well damn that sounds really bad. The amount of software calibration required to fix that would probably create pretty bad banding :(

Ah well, the bad QC on this monitor is simply stupid...
 

mope54

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Oct 2, 2004
Messages
7,442
Wow, this software looks great, but I can't get it to show my i1Display2 in the "instrument" box. I triple checked the drivers are the latest and windows 8.1 is recognizing the hardware just fine. No joy though. Ever had that issue?
I never have but have a Pro and I've read that older X-rite pucks can be locked out from 3rd party software.

here are a few people describing your issue with one resolving it and another not following up:
http://sourceforge.net/p/dispcalgui/discussion/932494/thread/ec614086/
 
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