Antec 620 + 670gtx = success!

doug_7506

2[H]4U
Joined
Oct 17, 2004
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So with all the buzz of strapping these AIOs to gpu going around, I decided to give it a try. I was surprised to see that it actually worked!
It was a little harder to connect the bracket than I expected it to be but it all turned out alright!
Card: EVGA 670 gtx ftw
Idle 27C
Temp decrease on load: 10C (This is without my adapter for pwm control by the gfx card-right now they are on the mobo which is only running the fans at about 60%%.)
Noise: At load everything is less than 22db! If the ac is on you can't even hear it!

How quiet is 22db you ask?
xcj5o6.jpg

that quiet!


Installed
20sia9.jpg

Furmark before install (80% stock fan = noisy):
3tydk.jpg

Furmark after install (60% nocturas = quiet :)):
eash2a.jpg

1289/3649 @ 54C :)
2rp7ghx.jpg
 
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sweet! Looks good! Im wanting to get a second GTX 670 but i dotn want to spend the money
 
I was just reading about this on OCN yesterday and was thinking of doing it myself also. What did you use to mount the cooler to the PCB?
 
I was just reading about this on OCN yesterday and was thinking of doing it myself also. What did you use to mount the cooler to the PCB?

here is the install page. http://www.overclock.net/t/1203528/official-nvidia-gpu-mod-club-aka-the-mod

Some people use zip tipe which is probably easier. I decided to go with the custom made bracket because a) I dont trust zip ties that much and b) I wanted something to mount a van on to to keep everything else cool.

here the guy that makes the brackets: http://www.overclock.net/t/1237219/...70-gpu-brackets-fan-grills-custom-case-badges
 
Ah thanks for the link! Is the fan just to keep the other components on the PCB cool?
 
Ah thanks for the link! Is the fan just to keep the other components on the PCB cool?

yeah, if you use a copper shim you can leave the original heatsink and fan on but I want my build to be super quiet. I am using the vga to pwm adapter to run both my fan on my 620 and the fan on the pcb. Allows me to control the fan in precision x.

unfortunately they sent me a y cable instead of the adapter. Should have it so and I expect my temps to drop further once I have it!
 
yeah, if you use a copper shim you can leave the original heatsink and fan on but I want my build to be super quiet. I am using the vga to pwm adapter to run both my fan on my 620 and the fan on the pcb. Allows me to control the fan in precision x.

unfortunately they sent me a y cable instead of the adapter. Should have it so and I expect my temps to drop further once I have it!

How does this work exactly? I'm a bit confused.

The fan on the 620 will be connected to the pcb via that adapter, but what about the fan cooling the VRMs? To what will that be connected?
 
How does this work exactly? I'm a bit confused.

The fan on the 620 will be connected to the pcb via that adapter, but what about the fan cooling the VRMs? To what will that be connected?

Sorry forgot to mention that the noctua fans come with a small y-cable.

So I'll go from pcb to vga to pwm adapter to y cable than to 92mm on pcb and 120mm on radiator.

Another thing. If you are already using the 3-pin cpu power connector (like I was for my h60) you will need a cable to attach the 620 power cable to the power supply.
 
Sorry forgot to mention that the noctua fans come with a small y-cable.

So I'll go from pcb to vga to pwm adapter to y cable than to 92mm on pcb and 120mm on radiator.

Another thing. If you are already using the 3-pin cpu power connector (like I was for my h60) you will need a cable to attach the 620 power cable to the power supply.

Thanks for the clarification doug.

One more thing. Does the 620 power pin have to go to the cpu power connector? Can it just go anywhere on the motherboard where there is an available 3pin port?
 
Your peak temps seem kinda high compared to what most others are getting in that mod thread on the other forum.
 
Thanks for the clarification doug.

One more thing. Does the 620 power pin have to go to the cpu power connector? Can it just go anywhere on the motherboard where there is an available 3pin port?

not sure. I dont see why not though. i know you cant split the cpu power though and run 2 pump off that one plug

Your peak temps seem kinda high compared to what most others are getting in that mod thread on the other forum.

Yeah my fans are low. I have yet to receive my vga to pwm fan adapter that will allow me to control the fan in precision x. Only pushing ~30cfm on the noctua nf-f12s right now.

Thing is whisper quiet right now though :D
 
not sure. I dont see why not though. i know you cant split the cpu power though and run 2 pump off that one plug

Gotcha, thanks!

I hope you don't mind if I PM you in the future regarding this mod, I may need some advice :)
 
Thought of some more questions.

Will heatsinks for the vrms still fit with the bracket on? What about the possibility of them falling, that's scary.

Lastly, you say you need a copper shim to leave the stock gpu fan on the pcb? I don't quite understand why, the stock fan is attached to the shroud or the pcb?

edit: after researching, I kind of answered my question about the copper ship. It is suppose to add another 2mm to the space between the 620 and the gpu chip to offset the space which the stock heatplate (which is required to use the stock fan) will create. amicorrect?
 
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Thought of some more questions.

Will heatsinks for the vrms still fit with the bracket on? What about the possibility of them falling, that's scary.

Lastly, you say you need a copper shim to leave the stock gpu fan on the pcb? I don't quite understand why, the stock fan is attached to the shroud or the pcb?

edit: after researching, I kind of answered my question about the copper ship. It is suppose to add another 2mm to the space between the 620 and the gpu chip to offset the space which the stock heatplate (which is required to use the stock fan) will create. amicorrect?

The stock heat sink will stay on. When I took apart my 670 ftw (same pcb as 680) it comes apart in three stages. 1) the screws on the side removes the outer plastic part, 2) the four middle screws under the pcb with springs which removes the chip heatsink, and 3) the screws on the bottom of the pcb which removes the vrm heatsink.

The method I did requires you remove all three steps and replace the heatsink with a fan blowing on the vrm. The method that requires the 2mm copper shim requires you remove only 1 and 2 but leave 3 on. So yeah you are correct.

If you are really interested. Contact dwood on ocn. He will tell you exactly what you need. The brackets are only 13 shipped.
 
I did this with my GTX 580 with the same cooler.

Kept my card running at 950mhz somewhere around 60C max load...like Battlefield 3 load. I say that because I noticed Furmark didn't stress my card to max temps. BF3 does though.

IF SOMEONE WANTS MY MOUNTING EQUIPMENT LET ME KNOW! IT SHOULD WORK WITH THE GTX 670/680 CARDS TOO!
 
The stock heat sink will stay on. When I took apart my 670 ftw (same pcb as 680) it comes apart in three stages. 1) the screws on the side removes the outer plastic part, 2) the four middle screws under the pcb with springs which removes the chip heatsink, and 3) the screws on the bottom of the pcb which removes the vrm heatsink.

The method I did requires you remove all three steps and replace the heatsink with a fan blowing on the vrm. The method that requires the 2mm copper shim requires you remove only 1 and 2 but leave 3 on. So yeah you are correct.

If you are really interested. Contact dwood on ocn. He will tell you exactly what you need. The brackets are only 13 shipped.

Thanks again doug, you've been a big help!
 
FYI, dwood from OCN forums sells brackets for Antec 620 (and Corsair HXXX series) so you don't need zip ties. I paid $11 for the "short" PCB version which is the 670 with the blower removed. Bracket allows you to use nuts & bolt combination instead of zip ties.
 
Why does this differ from regular GPU water cooling?
 
Well done and very interesting!!!!

I'm surprised that there aren't more options like this available.

The only 2 options that I know of are the Arctic Cooling Accelero Hybrid (current) and the CoolIT Omni A.L.C. (no longer available?)
 
FYI, dwood from OCN forums sells brackets for Antec 620 (and Corsair HXXX series) so you don't need zip ties. I paid $11 for the "short" PCB version which is the 670 with the blower removed. Bracket allows you to use nuts & bolt combination instead of zip ties.

Yeah I used the bracket with the spot for a fan for the vrm on the pcb

Why does this differ from regular GPU water cooling?

About 1/4th price with probably 50-70% as effective and with no maintenance.
 
Sorry to necro this old(ish) thread but I am going to be doing this mod on my son's 560ti and would like some input. The case in question is an SG05 and I am wondering about the placement of the 620's radiator. I am thinking of removing the front bezel and cutting out the fan grill in it to be big enough to accommodate the rad mounted sideways (to provide access to the BD drive) on the opposite side of the sheet metal to the case fan. I'll then add a magnetic filter to the front of the rad. I haven't worked out how to mount the rad to the sheet metal but I think some long bolts to hold both the fan and the rad in place should do it. Any thoughts on this?

The rad will go where the fan filter is in the pic below.

SG05-Fan-Filter.jpg
 
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