Adding swiftech MCR320 to Corsair Nautilus 500

H

Hyperacusis

Weaksauce
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Jun 16, 2004
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I'm not the most experienced with watercooling, and I've been thinking of adding an MCR320 to my current Nautilus setup, so I've got a few questions about it...

1. The loop is set up as CPU Waterblock -> [Pump -> Existing Radiator] -> CPU Waterblock. So my question is, at what point in that loop should I install the 320? I can't install it in between the pump and radiator, since those two are actually housed in the external nautilus unit (noted by parentheses), so basically I can install the 320 either right before the water enters the CPU waterblock, or right after it leaves. What would be a better setup?

2. The Nautilus uses 3/8inch tubing. Can I get an MCR 320 witih 3/8 inch fittings, and if not, what's a similar 3x120 radiator with 3/8 inch fittings?

3. Where can I buy the MCR320 with 3/8 inch fittings online?

Any other recommendations to keep in mind? Just for reference purposes, I'm going to be cooling a Q6600 with this.
 
Well, 1. Put it after the CPU so you dump the heat right away.

2./3. Just buy replacement fittings at 3/8". Most of the screw ends are a standard size, so just buy a fittings package.
 
You should buy 3/8" fitting seperate. I mean just add it to you order with, or if i remember correctly JAB-TECH allows you to choose the fitting.

Definately put the RAD after pump and Before CPU, like the guys above me said. It will work with your kit and you will see good temperatures and it can handle Q6600 easily.
 
Getting rid of the stock cpu block should help quite a bit also.
 
basically the placement doesn't matter much, maybe .5C [notice the point there] you'd be better off getting a bigger pump, and using the nautilus as a res/rad thing, also most places that sell radiators will have the option for 1/2 or 3/8, sometimes for no cost
 
I personally recommend you buy a separate pair of metal barbs because plastic tubing on plastic barbs can be a pain to put on and take off. Be sure to get some decent fans on the rad, like some Yate Loons.
 
usually i just use some dish soap to get the hose on the fittings, and boiling water, but don't try to pull the tubing off, cut it off the barbs, when you pull on it, with the oversized barbs that everyone likes so much,[i actually do:eek: {they don't leak}] it can break your hardware
 
Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I guess the placement really doesn't matter as much - and I didn't know that you had to get 3/8 inch NPT compatible fittings that screw into the radiator, and then put the tubing on those... I thought the radiator was designed as such that the tubing would automatically go on it. Stupid me I guess.

One other question: where on earth can I find 3/8 inch NPT fittings compatible with 3/8 inch tubing? I've looked at newegg, frozencpu and a few other places and I can't seem to find any... I'm probably not looking at the right places. If anyone has links to stores with those, it would be much appreciated. Like I said, 3/8 inch threads (for the radiator) with a 3/8 inch barb (for my tubing).

Not too keen on changing my waterblock at this time since this one is pretty good, and I don't want to have to get rid of it just yet. The Nautilus pump is actually quite powerful (350 LPH) so I don't need to change it yet - it's capable of handling a lot more in the loop. Any other thoughts on placement of the new rad would also be helpful... still don't know if I want it before or after the CPU!
 
Swfitech no longer makes the MCR-320 with 3/8" fittings. They now use 1/4" NPSM fittings. This size will fit the G1/4 fittings. Just use an o-ring. I know this for a fact, I just bought a second MCR-320 for my system and it has the new size and the EK G1/4 barbs I already had fit perfectly.

Petra's Tech Shop has everything you need. I shop there, highly recommended. Call and ask to speak to Quoc or Alex..

Fittings.
 
Hmm. I had heard something about the 1/4 in fittings. Most websites still show 3/8 inch though. If your link is a confirmed 1/4 in MCR 320 then I'll probably go with that.
 
Make sure you use coolant because you are going to be mixing metals between the alu radiator, copper heatsink, and the copper mcr320.
 
My current loop is using Corsair COOL coolant, thought I'm out now, so I'll have to get some new stuff when i flush it out. Any particular brand of type of coolant I should get? Also, what should I use to clean my current rad, waterblock out? Vinegar? And in what concentration with water?
 
Hmm. So now I've got a few questions about coolants....

Is Swiftech HydrX anti-oxidation as well as a biocide? I've read that it contains ethylene glycol which prevents oxidation, and some sites claim that it is a biocide, but I can't find anything more.

What about Pentosin G11? It says on the site that it contains "Ethylene Glycol, Diethylene Glycol, Sebacic Acid, and Sodium Hydroxide", which for sure would prevent oxidation, but would it also serve as biocide?

If neither of these would work as anti-algae, then should I get some biocide seperate, like copper sulfate? Would mixing the biocide with either of the two oxidation inhibitors (HydrX or Pentosin) cause any problems?
 
I've been running a mixture of 25% Pentosin G11 / 75% distilled water. Added about 20 drops of PT Nuke biocide to a gallon of the above of mixture with no problems now for over 6 months.
 
qdemn7 said:
I've been running a mixture of 25% Pentosin G11 / 75% distilled water. Added about 20 drops of PT Nuke biocide to a gallon of the above of mixture with no problems now for over 6 months.
Click to expand...

According to Petra's (as well as most at XS) it isn't needed. Nothing I can think of lives in antifreeze...I wouldn't bother with it.
 
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