Achieva Shimian QH270| $400 IPS 2560x1440 Korean Monitor

About to grab a achieva 270-lite. Bigclothcraft and greensum both have them for 350$ with the power adapters. Any good/bad experiences with either of these sellers so I can decide which one to go with (or other good sellers)? I read that recently there have been some troubles with pcbs and whatnot, is it not a good time to buy or have they resolved these with new pcbs?
 
I have ordered both of mine from bigclothcraft, the first one arrived fine and fast it was a crossover led-p and still works. Part of the reason I bought from him was because back then crossover was known to have a suspect PSU and he claimed to have a more correct one for the USA, second time ( a week ago) I ordered a qnix for my brother. it took him a little longer because he kept asking me questions and said he had to inspect it, (my brother lives half way accross the country. It arrived unfortunately I dont know if it works yet lol because my brother didnt get his computer well I will probably know in a couple hours.

Overall I think bigclothcraft wants to make sure you get a working monitor, he also questioned me the second time about the video card trying to make sure I had one that would work. But I have no experience with what would happen if I had to return one. I doubt you can go wrong with either , green sum is the guy who the 120hz monitor guys use I think.

UPDATE:
My brother finally got his computer in and the monitor is working fine, blu ray is not though so I worry about HDCP, but its also that powerdvd crap.
 
Last edited:
anyone know how or where to get a new board for the monitor? mine is fried and i have no clue how to get it replaced. the korean seller sent me another one but it was the wrong model I think he ripped me off.
 
Quick question: how would this monitor (with no scaler) handle lower resolutions? Would it just be black boxed?
 
Hey guys what's the difference between the Yamakasi, ShiMian and CrossOver monitors?

Also I heard the TVera monitors have a 10 bit panel as opposed to the 8 bit panels of the Yamakasi, ShiMian and CrossOver monitors.
 
Hey guys what's the difference between the Yamakasi, ShiMian and CrossOver monitors?

Also I heard the TVera monitors have a 10 bit panel as opposed to the 8 bit panels of the Yamakasi, ShiMian and CrossOver monitors.

This link explains all the differences. Crossovers are a little more expensive but have a more solid build.
 
Quick question: how would this monitor (with no scaler) handle lower resolutions? Would it just be black boxed?
For the vanilla DL-DVI versions your PC videocard would be the scaler, so it all depends on what you program your video card to do (black box or scaled full screen). If you are referring to a PS3 or Xbox then it all depends on how the video board is programmed so we can't make many assumptions. The Rev 3C videoboard would take a 1280x720p input resolution and double it up to full panel size, but that videoboard has been discontinued, and i'm not sure how the newer revision's firmware have been programmed. My guess is that it won't work because we've seen it happen with other revisions... <--- note that none of this info applies to the models that have an hdmi port + scaler.

Can I use a HDMI cable to HDMI>dvi converter in setup without any problems?
Depends on what model you purchase, the shimians and catleaps have no scaler so they will only work with a true dual-link dvi port and matching cable. If it's the crossover, that already has an hdmi port (and a scaler that adds a little extra input lag). Something to keep in mind is that any model that has an hdmi port will also have a scaler.

The Shimians and Catleaps are the better base models by the way. But if you need the extra video inputs (ps3 or Xbox use) and don't mind a little extra input lag, then you would research the Crossover.

Input lag numbers: Shimian + Catleap with NO scaler = 4 to 6ms (1/4 frame) Whereas the models with hdmi and a scaler will have 16-18ms input lag (1 frame, which is still much lower than any TV set by the way). This is not the same as pixel response time / pixel refresh, so don't get it all confused.
 
Last edited:
Thanks.

I use each a PC and hackintosh, so I guess I will need the multi input screen. I play a lot of bf3 so hopefully the multi input lag won't put me at to much of a disadvantage.
 
Thanks.

I use each a PC and hackintosh, so I guess I will need the multi input screen. I play a lot of bf3 so hopefully the multi input lag won't put me at to much of a disadvantage.
I just noticed, for some reason i thought all Crossovers had hdmi + scalers but apparently that's not the case. Just a heads up for you to keep your eyes open and read the descriptions on everything carefully.

And if you live near a Microcenter, you're in luck, they carry this nice multi-input Auria model: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1694047
 
This link explains all the differences. Crossovers are a little more expensive but have a more solid build.

Thank you.

Yes I think the CrossOvers have better aesthetics. I love the white behind of the CrossOvers, makes it look more premium and special.

However that link didn't discuss about TVera monitors which apparently use a 10 bit panel.
 
I have the shimian with tempered glass and I need to change the PCB.
Anyone have instructions on how to take these apart?
 
Does anybody know how the bezel thickness on the Crossover compares to the Shimian? I have a pixel perfect Shimian now and would like to add a second display. However I would consider two crossovers if they have significantly thinner bezels and if the buttons don't get in the way.
 
Got a crossover q27-led today. Was working great for an hour then the screen went blank. Took it apart and tried to fiddle with some connectors but still no picture. The light indicator thing goes blue and the backlight turns on but it deson't show anything.

Anyone have suggestions?
 
No its green. I've only had it for 2 hours so the LED circuit shouldnt be overheating already anyways. I've taken it apart twice now and messed with the connectors but still no picture.

Edit/update: Went in for a 3rd time super checking every connection and still no picture. Wish I would have read the thread over at overclockers.net because apparently every panel that has been going out for the past month or so has been horribly defective. Hopefully bigclothcraft will issue a refund because I don't think these are worth the risk, even at their super low price. If anyone is wondering I have a revision 02 circuit.
 
Last edited:
No its green. I've only had it for 2 hours so the LED circuit shouldnt be overheating already anyways. I've taken it apart twice now and messed with the connectors but still no picture.

Edit/update: Went in for a 3rd time super checking every connection and still no picture. Wish I would have read the thread over at overclockers.net because apparently every panel that has been going out for the past month or so has been horribly defective. Hopefully bigclothcraft will issue a refund because I don't think these are worth the risk, even at their super low price. If anyone is wondering I have a revision 02 circuit.

I was considering one of these cheap IPS, but I guess they use cheap components and might not last a year?

I might wait for a day when the catleap 120hz is available again as long as it's good quality.

How does the inputlag compare to my S23A700D?
 
Well my cross over is starting to have issues. Black light is diming in the lower right corner. ITs back to normal now but ill see how it goes.

Got it the first two weeks when the craze started.
 
Well my cross over is starting to have issues. Black light is diming in the lower right corner. ITs back to normal now but ill see how it goes.

Got it the first two weeks when the craze started.
If it happens again, take it apart and reseat all of the internal cables. Make sure they stay nice and tight before you put the casing back on.
 
For the vanilla DL-DVI versions your PC videocard would be the scaler, so it all depends on what you program your video card to do (black box or scaled full screen). If you are referring to a PS3 or Xbox then it all depends on how the video board is programmed so we can't make many assumptions. The Rev 3C videoboard would take a 1280x720p input resolution and double it up to full panel size, but that videoboard has been discontinued, and i'm not sure how the newer revision's firmware have been programmed. My guess is that it won't work because we've seen it happen with other revisions... <--- note that none of this info applies to the models that have an hdmi port + scaler.


Depends on what model you purchase, the shimians and catleaps have no scaler so they will only work with a true dual-link dvi port and matching cable. If it's the crossover, that already has an hdmi port (and a scaler that adds a little extra input lag). Something to keep in mind is that any model that has an hdmi port will also have a scaler.

The Shimians and Catleaps are the better base models by the way. But if you need the extra video inputs (ps3 or Xbox use) and don't mind a little extra input lag, then you would research the Crossover.

Input lag numbers: Shimian + Catleap with NO scaler = 4 to 6ms (1/4 frame) Whereas the models with hdmi and a scaler will have 16-18ms input lag (1 frame, which is still much lower than any TV set by the way). This is not the same as pixel response time / pixel refresh, so don't get it all confused.

How did you measure the inputlag to 4 to 6ms?
 
How did you measure the inputlag to 4 to 6ms?
Not me, it's old info buried within this thread or one of the huge OC forum threads. There's been more than one test on the direct connect DL-DVI-board (LG, no OSD or scaler) and it always produces the same result. I think one test was an outlier with 4-8ms but i'm going off memory.
 
Not me, it's old info buried within this thread or one of the huge OC forum threads. There's been more than one test on the direct connect DL-DVI-board (LG, no OSD or scaler) and it always produces the same result. I think one test was an outlier with 4-8ms but i'm going off memory.

Well my display S23A700D lags 11-12ms compared to a CRT.

I'm doubtful the QH270 has only 4-8ms inputlag, if it does it's definitively a candidate for me to buy.
 
No its green. I've only had it for 2 hours so the LED circuit shouldnt be overheating already anyways. I've taken it apart twice now and messed with the connectors but still no picture.

Edit/update: Went in for a 3rd time super checking every connection and still no picture. Wish I would have read the thread over at overclockers.net because apparently every panel that has been going out for the past month or so has been horribly defective. Hopefully bigclothcraft will issue a refund because I don't think these are worth the risk, even at their super low price. If anyone is wondering I have a revision 02 circuit.

My rev 02 died aswell. Red-cap sent me a new PCB after 3 months of bugging him. He sent me a rev 02 aswell. Changed the PCB, no luck. blue led on, blacklight on, recognized in windows, no picture. Same on both PCBs. I disconnected all the connections and reconnected them as some people said they had luck that way but not me.
After 4 hours of taking it apart, trying both of my PCBs twice and trying all the cables to make sure they are connected properly Im out of ideas.

I suspect its a cable or something with the panel itself.
 
My rev 02 died aswell. Red-cap sent me a new PCB after 3 months of bugging him. He sent me a rev 02 aswell. Changed the PCB, no luck. blue led on, blacklight on, recognized in windows, no picture. Same on both PCBs. I disconnected all the connections and reconnected them as some people said they had luck that way but not me.
After 4 hours of taking it apart, trying both of my PCBs twice and trying all the cables to make sure they are connected properly Im out of ideas.

I suspect its a cable or something with the panel itself.

Have you tried a different dual DVI cable? I only had an extra single link dvi cable. I'm not sure if it would work in the monitor (I know it wouldn't work at full resolution, but figured maybe low resolution would be fine) but still no luck. Mine is going back tomorrow and BCC is paying return shipping if it is in fact defective when he receives it. I'll update with how it turns out.
 
Anyone else getting a purple blinking status light on the monitor? I noticed the green led on the power supply was blinking so I unplugged the PSU from power and let it sit for about 15 minutes and replug it an everything returns to the normal.

Is this sign of a failing PSU? Its happening more and more frequently. I've had the monitor for about 4 months now.
 
Tempered glass Crossover Q27 from ebay seller "ta_planet"
Couldn't be happier.
Haven't seen a dead pixel in my searches.

Just some feedback (only day one)
 
I have a Radeon 7970 with a Shimian 27" monitor hooked up to the dual link DVI port. I want to add another cheap Korean monitor but don't have another dual link DVI port. I could get a DVI -> Minidisplayport active adapter but they are $100 and seem to have mixed reviews on reliability.

I was thinking of just adding another video card, the cheapest I can find that has a dual link DVI. My question is, will I have to deal with Crossfire, or is that optional? I only want to use the dual monitors and dual video cards during work and general computing. When I play games I just want to be able to play on my Radeon 7970 and one monitor, not two monitors and two video cards. Will this just work like it does not or will I have to disable the new cheap video card or something?
 
I ordered my crossover a few days ago and the FCC just sent me an email saying I need to fill out a 740 form. I've already contacted the seller. Is this normal and what's the best course of action?
 
I ordered my crossover a few days ago and the FCC just sent me an email saying I need to fill out a 740 form. I've already contacted the seller. Is this normal and what's the best course of action?

I have no idea what that form is....and I have ordered 3 of these...
 
I have a Radeon 7970 with a Shimian 27" monitor hooked up to the dual link DVI port. I want to add another cheap Korean monitor but don't have another dual link DVI port. I could get a DVI -> Minidisplayport active adapter but they are $100 and seem to have mixed reviews on reliability.

I was thinking of just adding another video card, the cheapest I can find that has a dual link DVI. My question is, will I have to deal with Crossfire, or is that optional? I only want to use the dual monitors and dual video cards during work and general computing. When I play games I just want to be able to play on my Radeon 7970 and one monitor, not two monitors and two video cards. Will this just work like it does not or will I have to disable the new cheap video card or something?

Should be plug and play so long as you stick with the same brand (ATI/nVidia). Could have some driver headaches if you mix and match, but if you just want to drive a second display, throw a second cheap ATI card in and enjoy.
 
I was looking at buying the Achieva Shimian QH270 here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ACHIEVA-Shi...-16-9-27-Monitor-Tempered-Glass-/320857320377

But reading all this it seems everyone is having burning out issues after a few months. Which monitor makes the most sense?

http://www.overlordcomputer.com/category_s/1818.htm

The Overlord X270SE (assuming that's what you are looking at) are hard to get as they are never in stock. Plus they have that ugly logo. But if they are in stock and the logo doesn't bother you, then I would go for the Overlord over the Shimian. Overlord comes with a A grade panel and Shimian is A- I believe.
 
As an eBay Associate, HardForum may earn from qualifying purchases.
The Spyder 4 Elite & i1 display pro are the only good colorimeters right now. The i1d2 and spyder 3 are inaccurate (500k colour deviance) & are not meant to be used with LED back-lit displays.

I use an i1 display pro, the spyder 4 elite will also work but make sure you get the elite version.

My CrossOver 27Q LED-P was very blue out of the box (8,500k Colour Temperature), my ICC profile is avaliable in TFT Central's Data Base

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/icc_profiles/crossover_27q_led-p.icm

Just used this color profile on my 27" Shimian, huge improvement over the stock one OS X tried to use. Thanks!
 
The Overlord X270SE (assuming that's what you are looking at) are hard to get as they are never in stock. Plus they have that ugly logo. But if they are in stock and the logo doesn't bother you, then I would go for the Overlord over the Shimian. Overlord comes with a A grade panel and Shimian is A- I believe.

I might have to get in line on one.

now that the kporean ebay ones are climbing, they are almost teh same price

having one makes it hard to buy another monitor
 
I recently bought a QNIX 27" monitor with DVI-D and HDMI (1.4) inputs.

Has anyone been able to get maximum resolution through HDMI? I plugged it into my Macbook Pro Retina running Windows 7 through Bootcamp and it would only display at 1920x1080. I'm using an HDMI 1.4 cable as well.

I read on some mac forums that it should 'just work' when running Windows on a MBP but it doesn't and I don't want to order an DVI-D adapter unless I have to. Thanks!
 
Long short, I ordered a screen from redcap, a month or so later it died. Going on 6 months of trying to get red-cap to deal with it as per his full coverage warranty. He was going 2 weeks at a time without responding, but I think now he realizes Im not going away.
These are the most recent messages from him, after every bit of money he can.

Dear
sorry for late reply
as you know , we offered you to pay the round shipping fee and we will fix it for free.

thank you
Sincerely yours
Red-Cap
Key word "round shipping"

Dear
you used the monitor for several months
so we can't consider it as a defective one.

we will fix for free as the warranty

thank you
Sincerely yours
Red-Cap

Dear
thanks for the message
QH270-IPSB is not available anymore.
please let us know if you need only QH270-IPSB or ok with QH270-IPSI.
we will send you new one if you $30 with the round shipping fee or we have to wait until the manufactuer fix the monitor.
we are not sure how long it will take

thank you
Sincerely yours
Red-Cap

below is his warranty statement
"A year warranty is provided for all items we are selling"
"we accept returning a defective monitor and will pay return shipping fee, but we recommend buyers to check other external reasons possible(video card, connected cables, etc...)before sending back a monitor. because we always send all monitors with confidence by testing all before shipping.
we will send the return shipping fee and a full refund after checking the monitor on problem if it won't be working as soon as returned at our office"

I facepalm at spending money on this guy.
 
Back
Top