Achieva Shimian QH270| $400 IPS 2560x1440 Korean Monitor

Is there a model that is reasonably priced under $400 that has display port in. My current laptop no longer had DVI out.

Or the other option is, a cheap adapter for DP > DVI-D
 
i bought a catleap q270 from green sum back in march and i'm having the same exact problem as you. they are sending me a replacement power brick for $48.

hopefully this fixes it, and its not the monitor taking a shit.

That's too bad. It's the first I've read about something like this occurring. Did you have a 2B overclocked or a normal Q270? Multi? Were you using the power cable that came with it or your own? Any detail would help the community to identify if this is becoming a trend and if it's related to a specific model.
 
I just ordered a Shimian from green-sum since it seems like he is a reasonably reputable seller and his Shimian prices have not shot up yet like all of the other korean monitor prices (although his catleaps and crossovers have gone up)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-ACHIEVA...6200?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19ce366ec8

Pretty sure the shimian was the model I really wanted from the 3 big ones. Going to drive it with an HD7770 and will be replacing the stand with a tilt/swivel/height vesa mount stand.

Do I need to buy a separate power adapter with this?

Bump--do I need to order a separate power supply? The last few posts make it sound like the monitor should come with one
 
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No. The one it comes with is fine. The cord that goes from the power supply to the wall can be removed and replaced with any standard pc or monitor cord and your good to go.
 
I have a GTX 690 and was thinking of getting this and putting it in the center of my 2 23" monitors. Do you think this would work well?
 
I bought a crossover from a seller and he declared $50 custom value for the $320 crossover. Now the custom marks it as $400 and is going to tax it as a tv because they do not believe the declaration. Custom wants to tax me $210. Still informing the seller about it , but if it fails , does anyone knows whether paypal provide coverage for this ?
 
I have a GTX 690 and was thinking of getting this and putting it in the center of my 2 23" monitors. Do you think this would work well?

There will be no compatibility issues, if that is what you are asking. 23-27-23 setups are not the most common, but I expect you wont be disappointed.
 
Just a warning - I have bought about 10 of these monitors so far for personal/work use. I recently bought 6 from 'Cool-guys' - 4 arrived, 2 were lost in transit. He ran me around for a few weeks until the Paypal 45 day limit expired (my fault for not tracking it closer, I guess) and then stopped contact.

I contacted Korea Post and they informed me they had refunded him for the two missing monitors but he refuses to respond to any of my communication now.

I was polite and obviously patient.. now I end up with 4/6 monitors I ordered and no really simple way of getting the money back for the other two. Obviously there are plenty of sellers out there but stay away from 'Cool-guys'.
 
I bought a catleap from greensum a few days ago. It arrived today. The power brick has a green light when plugged in. The monitor has a flashing green light when plugged into the power supply, but when I press the power button when connected to my computer, it shows a solid red light.

I just went out and bought a new DL DVI cable but no dice yet. Any ideas? I sent greensum a message, but wanted to come here as well.

edit: Just got it working. Holy shit this thing is nice. Cursory glace shows no dead pixels.
 
I also hope it's just the power brick. I too ordered a power brick from green-sum.

Good luck to us and will see how it turns out in a few months.

just got the power brick today, and my monitor is working again :cool:


That's too bad. It's the first I've read about something like this occurring. Did you have a 2B overclocked or a normal Q270? Multi? Were you using the power cable that came with it or your own? Any detail would help the community to identify if this is becoming a trend and if it's related to a specific model.

i have a regular q270, never overclocked. its only dvi. using a power cable of my own.

i don't know if it makes a difference, but i'm now using the cable that came with the original brick, with the USA plug adapter.

the yamakasi catleap monitor club thread over on overclock.net suggests "EFL-2202W Adapter" from ebay. i purchased one of these and it did not work with my monitor.
 
For those being charged $50 for a replacement brick from the original seller when and if yours should go out, you can easily find a compatible one for around $20-30. Just look for a 4 pin 24v supply of proper amperage and polarity on Ebay. I think I got a JVC LCD TV supply that worked perfectly with my Shimian before I sold it...
 
I just received my Crossover 2720MDP. The panel looks fantastic, only one dead pixel that I can find.

The stand is pure crap, and has a bit of a lean to it. I've contacted the seller (Dream-Seller) to see if there is anything we can do.

Also, the A/C Adapter (a 120-240 was included), makes a very loud humming sound when the monitor is on. I noticed that as I lowered the brightness, the pitch decreased along with the brightness. Hope it goes away or they will send me another a/c adapter, as it's really loud and annoying.
 
Didn't know where else to put this, but the 120hz.net vs. Underlord nonsense is laughably sad. This community is already niche as it is, but to see something like that blow up overnight is very :/
 
This thread has some comments on it, but you are, of course, right.

Really, it boils down to two people, both wanting control. I do think that both sides will have decent success though. Overlord (or Underlord XD) will still sell their monitors, and so will 120Hz.net. But I think that this hurts both of them, really.

I could write a long-ass essay on what I think happened (based on private conversations etc.) but those conversations are private, and it really doesn't matter what happened.
 
maybe one day they will make a movie about it, The 120hz network, or The Pirates of 120hz
 
The movie would either be hilariously boring, or hilariously biased. Probably both.

To be honest, the consumers still get these monitors, which was the original goal right?
 
Yeah I read through a good portion of the thread (and the one you linked). My gut feeling (and it's not a bad thing) - Hyper wanted a bigger cut, GreenSum okayed it on the condition he completely guts discussion of Overlord on 120hz.net.

What troubles me more is if the price increase initially (between shipments 1 and 2) was already taking into account Hyper's larger cut and he was not being transparent about it. The censoring of Overlord is also extremely OCN-esque...just very bad.

That said I want a 120hz panel so chances are I may still buy it from Hyper, but definitely an ugly conclusion to that partnership.
 
I said I wouldn't explain too much, so I won't. I will say that Scribby did some stuff too, it wasn't like Hyper just up and cut out Scribby cuz he wanted more money, although that was basically the end result.

I've made my case to Hyper with respect to the censorship, and he is pretty adamant right now. I may talk to him again in a week or so (after he sells his current batch).
 
So which one is a good price/good model? I don't want tempered glass, correct?

QH270_model_table.jpg

So should I get lite version?
 
@redshift:

You most likely do not want tempered glass. It adds extra reflections, weight, and price without offering you much (easier cleaning, I guess). It also can have dust stuck behind it which is a problem.

As for which monitor you want, well that depends. Lite is probably your best bet of the ones below, but there are a lot of options. Catleap, Shimian, Crossover, etc. Also available in the US are the Auria from microcenter (costs $400 though, has multiple inputs, etc), or some models from Overlord Computer (they are on preorder but I think they are available soon).

You always want the Lite versions (no glass, no speakers, etc) although that is mostly due to price. They ALL use the same panel, so you get the same chance at bad pixels, the same IPS colours, etc etc.
 
I'm thinking about getting a second Shimian,can anyone point me to a good dual stand that will work for these? Preferably from Amazon (prime) dont want to spend more than 150.00. Thanks
 
I got the lite one a few weeks ago - its a great monitor from a buyer that was recommended in this thread.. Don't knock ebay around 300 bucks it cost me - no tax no customs - that's with shipping. So thats a good deal cheaper then the Microcenter one which will add a ton of input lag and tax.

After I move I am going to buy a bunch more of if the prices say so low. I can't fit a ton of these things in NYC.
 
So is the auria from microcenter the cheapest option with DP in?
 
It's still better than some random e-bay scalper.

If paying $280 for a 27" 2560x1440 monitor, express shipped directly from Korea, is getting scalped, you might want to check on the definition of the word. :rolleyes: There's no way the markup on these is enough to justify the term.
 
Well my QH270 IPSB died today. Got it in June. Blacklight comes on, but thats it.
 
If paying $280 for a 27" 2560x1440 monitor, express shipped directly from Korea, is getting scalped, you might want to check on the definition of the word. :rolleyes: There's no way the markup on these is enough to justify the term.

It'd be like reverse-scalping.
"Hey Korea, I got $300USD, what's the best panel you can throw at me?"
:D
 
Hi everyone.

I ordered a monitor from ta_planet and it shipped out Wednesday afternoon in Korea. Do you think I will get it Friday if I am in California?

Right now its at Newark NJ and hasn't updated for over 12hours. it should have gone from Alaska to Ontario but it went to NJ instead.

I really want to play and set it up for the weekend.

Thanks!
 
Sounds like your power brick died like some of the others in this thread. Good luck!

I have 2 screens so i switched the power and cable from the working one to the dead one and its still no good.

Looks like it was the power supply though. When I unplugged it from the non working one I could hear it humming from behind the desk.


Anyone have any luck getting new boards?

I have ordered 5 screens total. Greensum, redcap and bigclothcraft.
Greensum and redcap both had 110-240v bricks.

The 3 from bigclothcraft had 190-240v bricks with a sticker "110v is acceptable". Confirmed with my friend with the others that they are running hot. I suspect the "110v is acceptable" sticker is not accurate.
 
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I have 2 screens so i switched the power and cable from the working one to the dead one and its still no good.

Looks like it was the power supply though. When I unplugged it from the non working one I could hear it humming from behind the desk.


Anyone have any luck getting new boards?

I have ordered 5 screens total. Greensum, redcap and bigclothcraft.
Greensum and redcap both had 110-240v bricks.

The 3 from bigclothcraft had 190-240v bricks with a sticker "110v is acceptable". Confirmed with my friend with the others that they are running hot. I suspect the "110v is acceptable" sticker is not accurate.

They probably put those stickers on there themselves. I mean, there's a lot of people living on the street downtown here that find eating out of trash cans and smoking leftover cigarettes acceptable also.
 
If paying $280 for a 27" 2560x1440 monitor, express shipped directly from Korea, is getting scalped, you might want to check on the definition of the word. :rolleyes: There's no way the markup on these is enough to justify the term.

Except you can't get those in 120hz anymore. Which is the whole point.
 
Well I got my monitor from Green Sum today and there are some issues.

There's a few dead pixels, I haven't done a complete thorough search but I found a few and based on there positions (and if I find more) they might be enough to send it back...although they are so hard to find since they are tiny that if they were the only issue, I wouldn't send them back.

The big problem is that the monitor makes noise based on what is on the screen. Usually it is faint but annoying (like the whine on a CRT TV whine it is warming up) but I found a post on overclock.net that suggested trying this picture:
http://img238.imageshack.us/img238/3503/200006resolutionprimertab3.png
When I open that picture full screen, it makes a very loud noise, audible over fans/air-conditioner/music/etc.
I made a video where I you can hear the sound:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ka5JC8nKqx0&feature=youtu.be

What is my course of action here? In that same overclock.net thread, there was a post about opening up the screen and putting epoxy on one of the chips which can vibrate and make noise. I am not sure that it is the same chip in my case but I don't really want to open up a brand new monitor if I can return it. The power supply seems to be working fine (even though it doesn't say 110v) so I don't know that that is the issue.
I'm going to try harder to locate the dead pixels and then send that video to Green Sum and see what happens.

edit: to be clear, this noise is NOT coming from the adapter. The adapter is silent except for a 60hz hum that I can only hear if I press it hard against my ear. The sound is coming from behind the monitor.
 
I'd return it. The noise is very audible in the video.

Actually.. just fullscreened that image on my catleap and i can hear it as well.. but I had to put my ear right on the bezel to hear it.
 
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