Achieva Shimian QH270| $400 IPS 2560x1440 Korean Monitor

[SJetski71]

hey I searched buy couldn't find...

any side by side comparisons of the glass vs matte?

It's glass vs non-glass and both types are glossy. The glass model is slightly more reflective with a chance of having a dust spec trapped inbetween the extra layer.

I don't recall comparison pictures being posted.

 

[Tephnos]

Well, Accessorieswhole put out her pixel perfect Crossovers, guaranteeing that they are limited A+ panels. Not bad. And she guarantees absolutely zero stuck pixels too, so if you ended up getting them and had to ship back, you could probably wave the return shipping fees.

(And A+ panels calibrate closer to a good 6500k than the A- panels, perhaps that's why you weren't as successful, NCX)

 

[NCX]

When the monitor skips-frames, is it pretty obvious? When you have it set at 100 Hz in CCC or NVIDIA control panel, does it still "feel' like 60 Hz? Never had a monitor before that skips frames.

The mouse looks like it skips when dragged around, same with windows which also tear. It also feels slower

 

[echn111]

Yeah, the Shimian has it's own problems. Looks good, but in person is actually very cheap looking (talking from experience). There's a bezel bulge, and the top half of the bezel can actually cover a few of the top pixels. I honestly prefer the looks of the Crossover, but each to his own. At least the latter does ooze quality.

Got the the tempered glass version of the Shimian (without the rubbish stand as I threw it out) and in person it looks great. Certainly doesn't look cheap. Side by side with my 27" Dell, it looks the more expensive monitor just based on looks. The only advantage the Dell is clearly superior is in the quality of the stand, and that's largely irrelevant - 2 minutes to put the Dell stand on the Shimian if anyone wanted to do that. Or just get a better stand - 3rd party stands are better than most stock stands anyway.

 

[Tephnos]

Got the the tempered glass version of the Shimian (without the rubbish stand as I threw it out) and in person it looks great. Certainly doesn't look cheap. Side by side with my 27" Dell, it looks the more expensive monitor just based on looks. The only advantage the Dell is clearly superior is in the quality of the stand, and that's largely irrelevant - 2 minutes to put the Dell stand on the Shimian if anyone wanted to do that. Or just get a better stand - 3rd party stands are better than most stock stands anyway.

Yeah, the glass version does look better, and the bezel is 'forced' into a correct position. Not so with the non glass version. I'd personally take the CrossOver over a non glass Shimian and not have to run the risk of bezel issues. Still a great saving either way.

 

[Sowexly]

The panels from 120Hz.net are not sold with glass right?

 

[SJetski71]

The panels from 120Hz.net are not sold with glass right?

Correct, no glass and no speakers either.

 

[Roflcopter_Down]

is it possible to get a 120hz panel with glass?

/

links to some 120hz models?

 

[kevinsbane]

Unless you can convince someone with a 120hz tempered glass 2B model to sell you theirs, pretty much impossible at this point.

Or you could buy TWO monitors, getting a "normal" 120hz one from 120hz.net, then buy a tempered glass one, do a swaparoo of the PCB boards.

 

[Roflcopter_Down]

Unless you can convince someone with a 120hz tempered glass 2B model to sell you theirs, pretty much impossible at this point.

Or you could buy TWO monitors, getting a "normal" 120hz one from 120hz.net, then buy a tempered glass one, do a swaparoo of the PCB boards.

I take it there is no way to buy a seperate board..?

so...anyone trying to unload a 2b tempered glass model?

edit: and there no other monitors that can be potentially overclocked?

 

[msbbc833]

Noobie here... what is 120hz needed for?

I am thinking of buying this model: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ACHIEVA-Shi...r_Monitors&hash=item3372543c81#ht_8194wt_1163

Does anyone have any suggestions for a better deal?

Edit: On 2nd thought this unit may be better? http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Yamakas..._Monitors&hash=item20c41cfd09#ht_16353wt_1163

 

[Tephnos]

120hz is just a preference some people have. They believe it's smoother and better looking than 60hz in motion.

Personally, I don't care for it, but a lot of people on these kinds of forums do.

 

[elvn]

In the case of modern, low response time + overdrive 120hz*input* LCD computer monitors - the response time compensation ~ overdrive combined with the screen update rate to the pixels (not the fps) comes into play from what I understand. According to this article, at 8.3ms per screen update (120 screen updates/second ~ 120hz) on high/very high overdrive, the pixels "relax" much faster than at longer screen updates of 60hz at 16.6 ~ 16.7 ms each due to the low response time combined with the aggressive overdrive. These updates are sent regardless of your frame rate, resulting in some duplication at lower frame rates, but the overdrive at 8.3ms per screen update should still reduce the smearing. . If this review is correct, it might give some insight. It also has some nice diagrams and further details on the page linked beyond what I pasted below, and on the 60hz testing on the page that comes before it.

http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/monitors/display/samsung-sm2233rz_10.html#sect0

* note that the review I quoted is not about the 750D I own but relates to 120hz input + high overdrive technology. It is also comparing vs 60hz setting on the same low response time TN monitor with high overdrive (RTC - response time compensation). An ips with a high response time of 10ms+ would be a much worse response time and smear the whole scene worse on FoV movement in games.

What about 120Hz then? Subjectively, RTC artifacts disappeared when I changed the refresh rate, but why?

The response time does not change much. The average is 3.3 milliseconds (GtG), which is only 0.1 less than at 60Hz. This difference may be just due to measurement inaccuracies.

The RTC error in percent is somewhat lower: an average of 7.3% and a maximum of 40%. This is better than at 60Hz (9.6% average) but not much different.

The RTC error relaxation time is the answer. The diagram is made to the same scale as for the 60Hz refresh rate so that you could easily see the difference. The average relaxation time was 15.2 milliseconds but now is only 6.6 milliseconds. It means that the RTC errors are not just lower but also vanish from the screen faster!

I want to illustrate this with a series of pictures showing the movement of a black square along a gray background at 60Hz and 120Hz refresh rates. The square is moving from left to right and its movement is captured each 8.3 milliseconds – the picture update period at a refresh rate of 120Hz.
...
... the white spot also disappears quicker at 120Hz. As a result, the perceptible intensity of the artifacts is lowered not two but fourfold ...

The gain of nearing 120fps+ average or going higher (to maintain the fps vs scene complexity dips) in reaction based gaming would be that you would potentially see more "recent" or "current" action every 8.3ms - always providing a new unique frame per screen update of 120hz, as opposed to every 16.6ms. Some games tear worse than others though and some people are proponents of keeping their frame rate below the refresh rate of the monitor in an attempt to avoid tearing. The fluidity in gaming also appears better on low response time 120hz TNs. I'm not sure how much the fluidity would increase at 100hz or 120hz at 10ms+ response time vs 60hz 10ms+ response time during motion since it would blur lacking the 2ms + aggressive RTC and resultant high relaxation rate. During more static scenes is another matter.
.
I'd still jump on one of these if I were in the market. These prices are awesome for such a high ppi, uniform, colorful monitor with so much desktop real-estate. I just wouldn't put much stock in the higher hz ones overall personally, and would not confuse them with the performance of a 120hz 2ms high RTC TN in gaming. Personally I kept the similar 60hz 10ms+ response time apple cinema display (I paid off on a no interest deal over a year ago) for all things "desktop", and put a 27" 120hz tn next to it for gaming when I saw some on sale for $399 at one point. The 120hz 2ms TN still smears some but the blur/RTC artifacts are reduced appreciably vs my 10ms+ 60hz ips. Its all about the tradeoffs.

 

[rudy]

Don't forget that even if you cannot run a monitor well at 120hz there are many values above 60 that are still better. Playing a game at 75 fps is better than 60. 85, 100, 110. The reality is people need to start thinking about LCDs in the line of what can the response time of this particular panel reasonably pull off. Even 120hz TN panels have major issues, I tried them and just could not like it, it was better than 60hz TNs but I had to go back to CRTs. But in any case people make decisions on video cards that result in 10 - 20% increases in FPS and it is not unreasonable to do the same for monitors.

 

[illli]

anyone happen to know if that perfect pixel crossover overclocks? doesnt have to be 120, i'd be happy with 100

 

[braveblade]

Well, Accessorieswhole put out her pixel perfect Crossovers, guaranteeing that they are limited A+ panels. Not bad. And she guarantees absolutely zero stuck pixels too, so if you ended up getting them and had to ship back, you could probably wave the return shipping fees.

(And A+ panels calibrate closer to a good 6500k than the A- panels, perhaps that's why you weren't as successful, NCX)

Well, for the price AW is asking for, it's better to buy hp 2720w, almost same price.

 

[silent-circuit]

anyone happen to know if that perfect pixel crossover overclocks? doesnt have to be 120, i'd be happy with 100

No, you likely won't even get 70Hz out of it.

 

[Tephnos]

Well, for the price AW is asking for, it's better to buy hp 2720w, almost same price.

Not for me. I hate LG's sparkly anti glare coating on their 27" panels. I'm loving the fact these are all glossy.

I'm in the UK, so add in currency conversion and it's a lovely price for me.

You're still getting:

- High quality chassis
- Glossy 'non sparkling' screen coating
- Guarantee of perfect panel, A+

At near the same price of the 2720 if you're in the US? Still looks worth it to me.

 

[modulus]

Well, for the price AW is asking for, it's better to buy hp 2720w, almost same price.

Depends which model you're getting. If you're talking about the model with the scaler then maybe. The models without the scaler are less.

I just put in my order for the led-p pixel perfect version. $499. The hp 2740w costs about 40% more than that, comes with terrible anti-glare coating, and allows up to 4 "dark" pixels. Personally I don't need the extra inputs.

So obviously all products are not for everyone, but for my purposes I see myself getting something closer to what I want for less money.

Could I have spent less for no pixel perfect guarantee? Sure. Might it have still come with no defects? Sure. Would I be kicking myself if I did that and it came with defects? Absolutely.

So while there is obviously some level of comfort with buying a monitor with an HP label on it vs some random korean brand, reviews point to the crossover led-p has having less input lag, superior contrast, a better pixel policy, and no anti-glare coating so it seems like a win in my book. Major backlight bleed issues don't seem very common on these panels so my biggest concern at this point is coloration issues but we'll see how that goes when the panel gets here.

 

[braveblade]

Not for me. I hate LG's sparkly anti glare coating on their 27" panels. I'm loving the fact these are all glossy.

I'm in the UK, so add in currency conversion and it's a lovely price for me.

You're still getting:

- High quality chassis
- Glossy 'non sparkling' screen coating
- Guarantee of perfect panel, A+

At near the same price of the 2720 if you're in the US? Still looks worth it to me.

Alright. I want to make one thing clear: NONE of these Korean monitors use LG A+ panel. Perfect pixel != A+ panel, just like yamakasi's perfect pixel version, you will find Manufactures put a perfect pixel stick on the box. That's it. Nowhere it says it's A+ panel inside. AW is giving false claims about A+ panel, an un-honest business behavior.

 

[braveblade]

Depends which model you're getting. If you're talking about the model with the scaler then maybe. The models without the scaler are less.

I just put in my order for the led-p pixel perfect version. $499. The hp 2740w costs about 40% more than that, comes with terrible anti-glare coating, and allows up to 4 "dark" pixels. Personally I don't need the extra inputs.

So obviously all products are not for everyone, but for my purposes I see myself getting something closer to what I want for less money.

Could I have spent less for no pixel perfect guarantee? Sure. Might it have still come with no defects? Sure. Would I be kicking myself if I did that and it came with defects? Absolutely.

So while there is obviously some level of comfort with buying a monitor with an HP label on it vs some random korean brand, reviews point to the crossover led-p has having less input lag, superior contrast, a better pixel policy, and no anti-glare coating so it seems like a win in my book. Major backlight bleed issues don't seem very common on these panels so my biggest concern at this point is coloration issues but we'll see how that goes when the panel gets here.

I'm talking about the model with scaler. $699 for 270mdp pivot! Seriously? That's even more expensive than HP 2740w.

 

[Tephnos]

Alright. I want to make one thing clear: NONE of these Korean monitors use LG A+ panel. Perfect pixel != A+ panel, just like yamakasi's perfect pixel version, you will find Manufactures put a perfect pixel stick on the box. That's it. Nowhere it says it's A+ panel inside. AW is giving false claims about A+ panel, an un-honest business behavior.

Then I'll ask her straight up. Seems fair, doesn't it?

Either way, it doesn't matter. An A- panel for personal use isn't going to kill you. If you were a business you might want that A+ panel.

I'll tell you one thing: I'm mainly buying this because it's glossy. If DELL would just release a glossy version of their 27" monitor I'd buy it straight up. However, they won't, and I can't STAND their anti glare coating.

 

[NCX]

The panel grading is garbage any way and should be ignored. Tell people who received PA2711/U2711's with IPS tinting and back-light bleeding that they received an A+ panel.

If the panel grading is true then most of the 23" IPS would be F- panels due to the horrendous back-light bleeding most come with and the 24" 16:10 models would be C+ given the large contrast variances that occur. So far the Korean IPS panels have been A+ panels since 99% don't come with back-light bleeding and very, very few dead/stuck pixels.

 

[Tephnos]

From what I heard, panel grading is all about how close it can be calibrated to 6500k, which is why the big companies want A+ for their top of the line monitors.

 

[braveblade]

The panel grading is garbage any way and should be ignored. Tell people who received PA2711/U2711's with IPS tinting and back-light bleeding that they received an A+ panel.

If the panel grading is true then most of the 23" IPS would be F- panels due to the horrendous back-light bleeding most come with and the 24" 16:10 models would be C+ given the large contrast variances that occur. So far the Korean IPS panels have been A+ panels since 99% don't come with back-light bleeding and very, very few dead/stuck pixels.

I think the korean monitors all come with some minor backlight bleeding. I haven't seen any monitor with zero backlight bleeding so far. Maybe I'm just not lucky enough...

 

[illli]

Then I'll ask her straight up. Seems fair, doesn't it?

Either way, it doesn't matter. An A- panel for personal use isn't going to kill you. If you were a business you might want that A+ panel.

I'll tell you one thing: I'm mainly buying this because it's glossy. If DELL would just release a glossy version of their 27" monitor I'd buy it straight up. However, they won't, and I can't STAND their anti glare coating.

I saw someone post in this forum a while back about how you can remove the ag layer, I think his was a 24" model, but maybe that would work for 27 as well?

No, you likely won't even get 70Hz out of it.

can you provide proof of this, or are you just speculating? As far as I know, nobody has gotten one in yet to test, since they just went on sale.

 

[Tephnos]

I saw someone post in this forum a while back about how you can remove the ag layer, I think his was a 24" model, but maybe that would work for 27 as well?

Bad bad bad BAD.

You expose the polariser to the elements, and it will slowly degrade. Pretty much everyone who removed the AG film coating ended up with a damaged polariser.

 

[Micluvin]

Yes..... DO NOT ATTEMPT... to remove the ag coating unless you want to buy a new monitor.

 

[vicbdn]

Bought a shimian. Came with about 35 stuck pixels. I'm returning it and the seller said they would pay for shipping which is nice.

 

[jorojr]

Bought a shimian. Came with about 35 stuck pixels. I'm returning it and the seller said they would pay for shipping which is nice.

Only 35? Damn. At least you don't have to pay to ship it back.

 

[gybp]

Bought a shimian. Came with about 35 stuck pixels. I'm returning it and the seller said they would pay for shipping which is nice.

Whos the seller?

 

[Digital Viper-X-]

The panel grading is garbage any way and should be ignored. Tell people who received PA2711/U2711's with IPS tinting and back-light bleeding that they received an A+ panel.

If the panel grading is true then most of the 23" IPS would be F- panels due to the horrendous back-light bleeding most come with and the 24" 16:10 models would be C+ given the large contrast variances that occur. So far the Korean IPS panels have been A+ panels since 99% don't come with back-light bleeding and very, very few dead/stuck pixels.

I agree with this, 3/4 of my 2311s had bad backlight bleed, and tinting, my 3007 had some backlight bleed, my SA27950D had SEVERE backlight bleed, my ZR30w had a stuck pixel. My Shimian Q270 has 0 bleed and 0 stuck pixels. The only monitors I've had no issue with is the 2412s and Q270s.

Funny

 

[Tephnos]

Guys, how hot does the back of the Shimian get in use? Any 'whining' on white pages?

Just wondering as the CrossOver gets a bit warm at the back in use.

(That new crossover logo is ugly)

Edit: Came across this:

Did some checks, all ok and turned it off to remove the stand and attach my monitor arm. That all went fine.... until..... it wouldn't turn on anymore. :S The powersupply would very softly blink it's green light and make a strange buzzing/beeping sound very softly. No life from the monitor whatsoever.

After thinking what it could be, I remembered somewhere I believe in the catleap threads someone mentioned that the VESA mounting holes are very shallow and to watch out with it. I decided to try and see and removed the lower 2 mounting screws and reconnected the power. Light comes on, all is well! After checking, I can actually see blue PCB in the lower mounting holes where I could see marks of my screws digging in. Not cool..... So a warning for everyone:

Watch out using the VESA mounts and check screw depth on lower holes!

There, hopefully others won't make the same mistakes.

This is apparently a problem with all of the Korean monitors, as the controller is right behind the VESA mounting. Didn't see it mentioned in this thread, so just a warning.

 

[one swell foop]

I know this is a huge thread, but to the newbies: AT LEAST TRY AND READ PART OF IT.

THAT PIXEL PERFECT GUARANTEE IS PRETTY MUCH BS. They do not check the screens. One guy got a "pixel perfect" monitor which had over 100 stuck pixels. ALL THEY GUARANTEE IS NO DEAD PIXELS. I'd rather have a dead pixel then a pixel that is stuck at bright green, or a block of four or more.

Don't spend the extra unless you're so scared of getting a monitor that is so messed up that it needs to be returned that you want to have the seller liable for shipping it back for an exchange. Even then, it depends on the seller. I think some people have been able to convince the seller to pay for return shipping based on the pixel perfect guarantee.

You folks keep talking about the guarantee like it actually means anything. The sealed boxes go to the seller and go to you from there, or get drop shipped from the manufacturer. They get tested at the manufacturer and that's it.

 

[modulus]

I know this is a huge thread, but to the newbies: AT LEAST TRY AND READ PART OF IT.

THAT PIXEL PERFECT GUARANTEE IS PRETTY MUCH BS. They do not check the screens. One guy got a "pixel perfect" monitor which had over 100 stuck pixels. ALL THEY GUARANTEE IS NO DEAD PIXELS. I'd rather have a dead pixel then a pixel that is stuck at bright green, or a block of four or more.

Don't spend the extra unless you're so scared of getting a monitor that is so messed up that it needs to be returned that you want to have the seller liable for shipping it back for an exchange. Even then, it depends on the seller. I think some people have been able to convince the seller to pay for return shipping based on the pixel perfect guarantee.

You folks keep talking about the guarantee like it actually means anything. The sealed boxes go to the seller and go to you from there, or get drop shipped from the manufacturer. They get tested at the manufacturer and that's it.

I would beg to differ. My pixel perfect monitor I ordered has a guarantee of 0 dead pixels AND 0 stuck pixels. Other sellers offer different promises. AW told me if there are any defects at all with any pixels that they will pay for return shipping. Given how that was all through official ebay correspondence, if there are any problems with that then ebay will back me.

Sounds like an effective guarantee to me, but we'll see for sure when the panel gets here.

 

[vicbdn]

Whos the seller?

Ta beauty supplies or something. The one that sells makeup =p

 

[Ulti]

Posted this on overclockers:

Received my monitor from dream seller and it has a ton of dead/stuck pixels and flickers a lot!

I'm not interested in opening up the monitor either as although that'll probably fix the flickering, it won't fix the stuck/dead pixels.

Although the monitor looks brilliant, I can't live with it. There are probably 200 dead pixels on the whole screen, maybe even more. I can count at least 50 in the bottom left hand corner of the screen.

You can easily see them on a black screen using this test: http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php

I've contacted him but I've yet to receive a reply. It's only been 2 hours and he's probably going to bed though... I probably won't receive a reply till next week as it's the weekend for them now.

I'm a noob with my camera, not sure how to fix the exposure and I can't even find manual focus! Using a Panasonic GF3, the touchscreen on this camera is far too gimmicky, I don't know where half the options are.

EDIT: Just wanted to add, AMD A6-3500 with DP-> Dual link adapter works fine. For some reason when I got the monitor it corrupted my drivers and I couldn't even see desktop after booting twice. However, after reinstalling the drivers using my original monitor, things now work fine.

I can even play League of Legends with the integrated HD6530D on very high (no shadows) without dropping below 30fps! Now if only I didn't have a duff monitor.

I've gotta say, the glass is VERY reflective, with nothing but natural sunlight shining into my room, I can see my own reflection on black screens as if it's a mirror. Nothing wrong with that though as I expected it. When I don't load up a black screen the monitor does look awesome I've gotta say. There are quite a few dust particles, but I don't actually mind them, not noticeable at all compared to the 200+ dead pixels.

EDIT2: Recorded a video, will upload it to Youtube now.

EDIT3: It finished uploading and processing: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4gP-Y2LVG4&feature=plcp

 

[rudy]

I cant help but wonder if you have some other issue ulti, can you try the monitor on another computer?

I have never seen that many dead pixels, and so evenly spaced, I almost wonder if it is possibly an issue the cable or video card. I am trying to think of how that could happen and pass quality control. almost like on the flight over it was baked in an oven or something to just near its melting point.

Run a stuck pixel fixing program and see if any of them change.

 

[tk-don]

The panel grading is garbage any way and should be ignored. Tell people who received PA2711/U2711's with IPS tinting and back-light bleeding that they received an A+ panel.

If the panel grading is true then most of the 23" IPS would be F- panels due to the horrendous back-light bleeding most come with and the 24" 16:10 models would be C+ given the large contrast variances that occur. So far the Korean IPS panels have been A+ panels since 99% don't come with back-light bleeding and very, very few dead/stuck pixels.

The panel grading is only a guaranteed minimum classification. If you place an order at LG etc for a specific grading, it only means that what doesn't meet the minimum grade is discarded. But of course, if another buyer places a large order for the same size panel, but at a higher grade, you'd end up with panels that (as a whole) turn out to be closer to your minimum classification..

It is a waste of time to produce a lot of panels, sort all into grades and sell grade X to the buyer who specifies grade X. Then you've got a lot of panels collecting dust with no means of intentionally producing a new batch to replace the out-of-stock grade X.

I don't quite get where you got the impression that most 23" IPS has backlight leakage. Compared to the amount of choices in 23" and their popularity, it would be weird that more issues wouldn't be reported. Mistaking bleeding for "glow" also happens a lot - but then I don't think that Dell's "A+" promises necessarily means "A+" by LGs standards. Also contrast variances for 24" ? Within the same panel model number?

 

[NCX]

Tons of people report backlight bleeding with the 23" IPS panels and reviews have pictures proving it is not glow. The dell models seem to be more consistent but the asus, nec, aoc, and LG IPS commonly are reported to have bleeding. Many probably do mistake glow for bleeding.

As per usual, this is all anticedal evidence from forums, user reviews and professional reviews who likely only make up a very small amount of the displays out there...

A bunch of people here ordered 3 u2412s and 1/3 would have much lower contrast, this was common with review samples as well, but not nearly as much as the 23" IPS panels. I use the U2412 as an example, but there have been others.