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Achieva Shimian QH270| $400 IPS 2560x1440 Korean Monitor

Vega said:
A whole 24 hours! Let's burn him at the stake! :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

I know... I've got amazon prime and live one day away from their shipping center, so instead of getting free two day shipping, I get it free in one day. I am also anxious to make sure that I receive this before saturday. I had it shipped to my office, so if it comes on saturday, it will be monday before I am able to get it, and that leaves valuable weekend playtime wasted. To be fair, when I get quick shipping and good customer service, I make sure everyone knows and try to ensure that others go there. I've been in the service industry for 8 years and reward good customer service.

But, update my monitor shows as being shipped as of 5:30 am this morning.

Darkhadou said:
Just received mine today, perfect according to the note attached. However, the power brick seems messed up. Literally lit up for only a second and then never turned on again. Can't use my monitor without powering the damn thing- anyone got any ideas?
Click to expand...

I think that, somewhere in this thread, there is a link to an after market power brick for around $30 on ebay. Do a search of the thread and you should find it. That sucks man.
 
if i were to purchase a reglar Catleap model, would it still have the overclock potential that the original ones were found to have? up to 100 hz or whatever?
 
xxeL said:
I own the same monitor and I myself wanted to change the backlight but it seems to be impossible.
Click to expand...
I messaged my ebay seller again, asking them to double-check, and this was their reply:
Our apology for undetailed information provided.

So, we asked manufacturer again to get information in detail,
the manufacturer answered as below:

The monior does not have seperate button or control for the backlight.
However, It is designed to adjust its backlight with Brightness.
So, IF you want to adjust Backlight, you have to use brightness control
Click to expand...
Looks like we're boned, the Achieva Shimian QH270-IPSMS (dvi, vga, hdmi input model) does NOT have backlight adjustment. Buyer beware for any potential customers of this model. Using the brightness control doesn't solve anything unless you like crushing your blacks until your entire image turns into nothingness.

I have found a slight workaround, and would like to know if this works for you as well, xxeL. If I turn on and then off dynamic contrast ratio (DCR in the Misc menu of the OSD), I can get the backlight to toggle between brightness settings, depending on what is on-screen at the moment. If it's a bright image, the backlight will go up to what appears to be max level, and with a dark image it'll go down to the lowest level. Problem is when you want it somewhere in the middle, as it gets real finicky. Easy to go max or min, though.

Still though, it is absolute horse hockey for an LCD manufacturer to leave out backlight level adjustment. This monitor was almost perfect otherwise.
 
Is the backlight on it really that powerful? I've got the IPSMS here too but as said earlier, can't test it until I have a power brick replacement.

Just bought one off Amazon rated 24v, 5A, 4 pins but god knows when that's gonna get here- probably next week.

Edit: Also I noticed the Shimian only has 2 screws provided for the VESA mount, WTH? Bit odd considering the standard screws used for VESA mounts are too long for this monitor. So I've got 2 screws that are perfectly fine and 2 screws from the bracket that are, essentially, too long. So half of each of those screws sticks out =/

Edit 2: Another thing I was wondering, has anyone got concrete proof of what the input lag is like on the IPSMS one? I hear people saying 1 frame+ but without any proof an the only reasoning being "it has a scaler". Would like to see the results over HDMI.
 
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madmook said:
I messaged my ebay seller again, asking them to double-check, and this was their reply:

Looks like we're boned, the Achieva Shimian QH270-IPSMS (dvi, vga, hdmi input model) does NOT have backlight adjustment. Buyer beware for any potential customers of this model. Using the brightness control doesn't solve anything unless you like crushing your blacks until your entire image turns into nothingness.
Click to expand...

There's surely a way to solder in a rheostat to manually control the LEDs. I bet it's a huge PITA, and you'd have to get a hold of someone that actually knows about electronics, but if you have the time, dedication, and money, you can find a way.
 
Darkhadou said:
Edit 2: Another thing I was wondering, has anyone got concrete proof of what the input lag is like on the IPSMS one? I hear people saying 1 frame+ but without any proof an the only reasoning being "it has a scaler". Would like to see the results over HDMI.
Click to expand...
Member csshih tested the Shimian w/scaler using SMTT V2.0.4.0 vs a monitor that has virtually no input lag. To be safe you would add a 1/2 frame to the results, which means it'll have around 16-24ms (1 to 1 1/2 frames), still a much better average than a so called "gaming TV".



csshih said:
I feel like an idiot. I went and sat down for a formal test and averaged results. - TL;DR, 17 ms input lag.

Anyways: new test setup, I don't have another native 1440P monitor so the panel's scalar feature *IS* kicking in.

I'm comparing with Dell U2312HMs which supposedly have an astoundingly low 0.6ms of input lag.

Here are the results.
lMxiM

I am using SMTT V2.0.4.0

This is the fully featured 10bit "QH270-IPSMS" (supposedly, I need to get a firepro/stream or quadro for that testing) version of all the ebay models with AD board(scaler), OCR, DCR(though it was off for this test), and has hdmi, vga, and dual link dvi (which was used for this test).

From this I can say that the input lag is 17ms - worst case. Not bad achieva, not bad. I'm one step closer to importing a crate.
of course, I'll be sending this unit out to a few gamer friends to test. the colors are wonderful, but this is [H]!


C
Click to expand...
^^^^
 
Darkhadou said:
Is the backlight on it really that powerful? I've got the IPSMS here too but as said earlier, can't test it until I have a power brick replacement.

Just bought one off Amazon rated 24v, 5A, 4 pins but god knows when that's gonna get here- probably next week.

Edit: Also I noticed the Shimian only has 2 screws provided for the VESA mount, WTH? Bit odd considering the standard screws used for VESA mounts are too long for this monitor. So I've got 2 screws that are perfectly fine and 2 screws from the bracket that are, essentially, too long. So half of each of those screws sticks out =/

Edit 2: Another thing I was wondering, has anyone got concrete proof of what the input lag is like on the IPSMS one? I hear people saying 1 frame+ but without any proof an the only reasoning being "it has a scaler". Would like to see the results over HDMI.
Click to expand...
Specs say the backlight is 350cd/m2 and in practice I felt it was pretty accurate. 350 is not the brightest available out there, but a tiny bit higher than the norm, which is 250-300.

Don't think I got any vesa screws with my unit, just the two long gold screws for securing the baseplate and stand to the monitor.

I didn't notice enough input lag to affect gaming, I played both ps3 and 360 through hdmi. I think I can feel some (compared to a 2ms TN), but again I don't feel it is enough to negatively affect gaming performance. Sorry I don't have the technical know-how to measure it exactly.
 
madmook said:
I have found a slight workaround, and would like to know if this works for you as well, xxeL. If I turn on and then off dynamic contrast ratio (DCR in the Misc menu of the OSD), I can get the backlight to toggle between brightness settings, depending on what is on-screen at the moment. If it's a bright image, the backlight will go up to what appears to be max level, and with a dark image it'll go down to the lowest level. Problem is when you want it somewhere in the middle, as it gets real finicky. Easy to go max or min, though.
Click to expand...

Great, it works. Min and max setting is enough for me. My monitor is in front of a window, at day I can set it to the brightest mode and at night I can set it to the lowest, but the difference is not that big I think.
Thank you.
 
SJetski71 said:
Member csshih tested the Shimian w/scaler using SMTT V2.0.4.0 vs a monitor that has virtually no input lag. To be safe you would add a 1/2 frame to the results, which means it'll have around 16-24ms (1 to 1 1/2 frames), still a much better average than a so called "gaming TV".




^^^^
Click to expand...

I saw the replies to it and apparantly that measures the response time rather than the actual input lag? Either way I'm happy with 1 frame of lag. Will have to test on Street Fighter and Marvel vs Capcom once I got this monitor working (where input lag is detrimental)


madmook said:
Specs say the backlight is 350cd/m2 and in practice I felt it was pretty accurate. 350 is not the brightest available out there, but a tiny bit higher than the norm, which is 250-300.

Don't think I got any vesa screws with my unit, just the two long gold screws for securing the baseplate and stand to the monitor.
Click to expand...
Ah brightness issue doesn't seem too bad then cheers.

The screws were already on the Vesa mounting holes on the back of the monitor for me (and thank god they were, I'd have been clueless had they not been there).
 
I dealt with low input latency buy finding the lowest input latency on a 120hz monitor I could find at the time with the closest to zero I could get.

I use a different monitor for everything else. Makes it easier.
 
kegkilla said:
so what did you end up buying godmachine?
Click to expand...

Shimian QH270 is what I went with. I don't need HDMI functionality for gaming consoles or anything like that as I've got a nice big 55 inch Panasonic Plasma for that. I just wanted the bare bones model and I'm going to be buying a new stand for it so I didn't even mind that.

All I gotta do now is wait and hope that it isn't a flawed panel. I can deal with a few dead pixels but I'm crossing my fingers that it won't result in me having to take a hit money wise and return it.
 
Godmachine said:
I'm crossing my fingers that it won't result in me having to take a hit money wise and return it.
Click to expand...

I would sell it somewhere like at craig's list or eBay. At least you could try it but first wait for the display...
 
This is the stand I picked up. I'll let you know how I feel about it once everything arrives.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013CD0DI/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00

[EDIT] The stand has arrived, and I am pleased with the construction and stability, especially given that it was one of the less expensive models that could handle a 27" display. The 3M logo on the base is irritating, so I've already removed it by rubbing it with some sugar. The plastic is soft enough that, when rubbing hard, it smoothed the plastic out while removing the logo, but having a bit that's a little more polished is better than having a big logo down by my keyboard.

If I am displeased with it in any way after I get the display and mount it I will update this post, otherwise, assume I recommend this stand.
 
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kegkilla said:
if i were to purchase a reglar Catleap model, would it still have the overclock potential that the original ones were found to have? up to 100 hz or whatever?
Click to expand...

You'd likely damage something in the process as well. That's not to say you wouldn't damage something if you tried to OC the 2B since nothing is really guaranteed. That being said, if you're crafty, you can pick up a 2C/2D on ebay right now and hope that the guys over at 120hzNET are able to remake the 2B PCBs.
 
Godmachine said:
Shimian QH270 is what I went with. I don't need HDMI functionality for gaming consoles or anything like that as I've got a nice big 55 inch Panasonic Plasma for that. I just wanted the bare bones model and I'm going to be buying a new stand for it so I didn't even mind that.

All I gotta do now is wait and hope that it isn't a flawed panel. I can deal with a few dead pixels but I'm crossing my fingers that it won't result in me having to take a hit money wise and return it.
Click to expand...

Good choice. I have heard that the multi input models have 3x as much input lag over the single input models.
 
Huge thread...too much to take in.

So questions

1. So far its safe to order from green-sum?
2. The Warranty, is it worth it?
3. Anyone tried the tempered glass? I think it looks cool, but one ebay seller had a disclaimer about dust in the glass so I assume its a problem?
4. Whats the final word on the power block? Green-sum's can just plug in with a regular monitor power cable?
 
Droc said:
Huge thread...too much to take in.

So questions

1. So far its safe to order from green-sum?
2. The Warranty, is it worth it?
3. Anyone tried the tempered glass? I think it looks cool, but one ebay seller had a disclaimer about dust in the glass so I assume its a problem?
4. Whats the final word on the power block? Green-sum's can just plug in with a regular monitor power cable?
Click to expand...

Green sum is one of the biggest distributors of the monitors. I think you're safe going with him. He's answered my questions off of ebay relatively quickly the past few times I've contacted him.

Did you mean warranty through square trade? Piece of mind might be worth it. Otherwise the monitors cost about $100 to ship back to Korea.

I think you can remove the tempered glass if needed, but I'd personally just go with the regular glossy coating. Tempered glass reflection would drive me nuts.

I'm quite positive the powerblock works fine and you just need the right power cable to attach it to your outlet, but someone else should answer this.
 
Droc said:
Huge thread...too much to take in.

So questions

1. So far its safe to order from green-sum?
2. The Warranty, is it worth it?
3. Anyone tried the tempered glass? I think it looks cool, but one ebay seller had a disclaimer about dust in the glass so I assume its a problem?
4. Whats the final word on the power block? Green-sum's can just plug in with a regular monitor power cable?
Click to expand...

1) Seen a lot of people buy from green-sum, most of them appear to have been happy with him. I got my Catleap through DCSamsungmall personally.
2) What deus said ^ up there.
3) A couple of the people in this thread that had gotten the tempered glass models said theirs arrived with dust, but they pried open the glass near the top and shot some canned air to move the dust more towards the bottom where it's not as bothersome. Totally up to you if you even want to bother with the glass model or not.
4) My Catleap's powerbrick just plugged in with my old monitor cable. As far as I've read in this thread (couldn't bring myself to dig through OCN's even larger thread) all the monitors will take a standard PC/monitor power cable. You'll want to check your brick after it's been running awhile and make sure it's not running too hot for you. A couple people in this thread had theirs run too warm for comfort and replaced the bricks.
 
Darkhadou said:
I saw the replies to it and apparantly that measures the response time rather than the actual input lag? Either way I'm happy with 1 frame of lag.
Click to expand...
Not sure if i'm reading this reply right but i was a part of that unfortunate discussion trying to explain that the SMTT test was definitely for input lag and not response time ;)

And yes i agree, 1 frame of lag would be extremely do-able for most imho and street-fighter type games would be a great way to test.

Good luck and enjoy that awesome new toy :)

_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Edit: Price update.

The base model Shimian is now only $302.90 shipped from Dream-seller or get it shipped faster with Green-sum for only $304.90 shipped.
 
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SJetski71 said:
The base model Shimian is now only $302.90 shipped from Dream-seller or get it shipped faster with Green-sum for only $304.90 shipped.
Click to expand...

Wow. Lowest price has come down almost 10% in the last 40 days. Wonder where these will bottom out.
 
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Hey guys, I want a glossy screen with only dvi input (lower input lag) which one is the best choice?

do the 120hz ones from hyper have AG or glossy?
 
The ones from hyper are glossy.

Sadly, my display has been sitting in customs in Korea all day. So much for receiving it by my birthday, short of a miracle.
 
don't know if hypermatrix will read this but if this is a limited production run, what happens if 8 months down the road you ship it back for warranty replacement? if there is no more stock of 2b.. what happens then?
 
illli said:
don't know if hypermatrix will read this but if this is a limited production run, what happens if 8 months down the road you ship it back for warranty replacement? if there is no more stock of 2b.. what happens then?
Click to expand...

Realistically, as is the expectation and as we wrote as a precaution before you're allowed to purchase, we made sure people are aware that overclocking anything (cpu, video card, ram, monitor, etc..) voids the manufacturer's warranty. Including models like intels multiplier unlocked K series CPU's which are in the same category as the 2b monitors. We're saying you "Can" OC these ones, but OC'ing voids warranty. So do it at your own risk. What happens if your OC your video card or cpu and it burns half a year down the road? well...you buy a new one.

Unless you purchase yourself an extended warranty through Squaretrade.

That's why I also put a recommendation in the sales agreement to NOT overclock the monitor for a few weeks after receiving it as 99% of monitor problems/issues (as well as most other equipment) show up within the first week or two of having it. So make sure you have a working display with no issues first. That way if there's a problem you can have it swapped out at no cost. Afterwards, OC it and enjoy the reward along with the risk associated with it. Or buy a squaretrade warranty, as I mentioned, so you're covered longer.

And you can't really say "but what if I didn't OC mine." We're going to go with the assumption that you're not paying an extra $150 to get....nothing extra. You're buying it to OC. We know it. The Koreans know it. So don't think you're going to fool anyone. :p We just put the warnings up to make sure our members are protected in the best way possible and aware of what it is they're doing before they get into it. We have this information in the product description, and also as part of the sales agreement form you accept in order to be able to purchase.

I can try to sugar coat it but really that doesn't help anyone. I'm being honest with you. That way there are no surprises. Your warranty just makes sure you get a working unit without having to pay any extra fees to exchange it should it come DOA or develop a problem in the first few weeks before you OC it. And if you think that's unreasonable, consider Plasma TV's that you must run for about 200 hours of warmup before going full blast with it. Or car engines that you should not rev too hard until you're at least a couple thousand kilometers into it. Just take it slow for a bit. Make sure everything is ok. Then give 'er. :p

I try to check here occasionally but the majority of the time I'm on our site at 120hz.net. So if you need an answer to anything, feel free to drop by and ask.
 
Digital Viper-X- said:
Hi Hyper, do you guys have any more stock?

Also, anyone receive theirs yet?
Click to expand...

Nobody has received theirs yet. Mine is still in Korea but it is in progress so I anticipate delivery tomorrow/monday (unless weekend delivery? It is express but I dunno).

They are "out of stock" right now but really it is a complicated situation. The stock comes in about 100 a week, in batches. The first batch sold in 21 minutes...

The first batch was pre-sold before greensum even had his hands on any monitors, but he knew when he was getting them. It is possible the second batch will be sold in a slightly different way, I don't think it has been decided yet. If you really want to be kept up to date, check out 120hz.net.
 
HyperMatrix said:
Realistically, as is the expectation and as we wrote as a precaution before you're allowed to purchase, we made sure people are aware that overclocking anything (cpu, video card, ram, monitor, etc..) voids the manufacturer's warranty. Including models like intels multiplier unlocked K series CPU's which are in the same category as the 2b monitors. We're saying you "Can" OC these ones, but OC'ing voids warranty. So do it at your own risk. What happens if your OC your video card or cpu and it burns half a year down the road? well...you buy a new one.

Unless you purchase yourself an extended warranty through Squaretrade.

That's why I also put a recommendation in the sales agreement to NOT overclock the monitor for a few weeks after receiving it as 99% of monitor problems/issues (as well as most other equipment) show up within the first week or two of having it. So make sure you have a working display with no issues first. That way if there's a problem you can have it swapped out at no cost. Afterwards, OC it and enjoy the reward along with the risk associated with it. Or buy a squaretrade warranty, as I mentioned, so you're covered longer.

And you can't really say "but what if I didn't OC mine." We're going to go with the assumption that you're not paying an extra $150 to get....nothing extra. You're buying it to OC. We know it. The Koreans know it. So don't think you're going to fool anyone. :p We just put the warnings up to make sure our members are protected in the best way possible and aware of what it is they're doing before they get into it. We have this information in the product description, and also as part of the sales agreement form you accept in order to be able to purchase.

I can try to sugar coat it but really that doesn't help anyone. I'm being honest with you. That way there are no surprises. Your warranty just makes sure you get a working unit without having to pay any extra fees to exchange it should it come DOA or develop a problem in the first few weeks before you OC it. And if you think that's unreasonable, consider Plasma TV's that you must run for about 200 hours of warmup before going full blast with it. Or car engines that you should not rev too hard until you're at least a couple thousand kilometers into it. Just take it slow for a bit. Make sure everything is ok. Then give 'er. :p

I try to check here occasionally but the majority of the time I'm on our site at 120hz.net. So if you need an answer to anything, feel free to drop by and ask.
Click to expand...


So... What was the point of offering a 1 year warranty on it instead of a 30 day one? How long do people actually have to discover defects in their monitors before any claim is rejected under the assumption of overclocking?

Many of the ebay sellers will pay for shipping back if they ship you a dead unit. Your 1 year warranty sounds better on paper but you just admitted it is window dressing since it will not be honored.

I'll be realistic and say who knows if green-sum will be around in a year but doesn't it feel a little deceptive to advertise a useless warranty? You can add all the little notes you want in the "agreement" but the bottom line is that you can't prove overclocking on these monitors. Not to mention any non fibbers who didn't overclock and run into a problem.

A warranty usually does little to change my buying decisions but I feel sorry for anyone who justified the inflated costs to themselves by saying at least they included a 1 year warranty.
 
Shadowgate said:
So... What was the point of offering a 1 year warranty on it instead of a 30 day one? How long do people actually have to discover defects in their monitors before any claim is rejected under the assumption of overclocking?

Many of the ebay sellers will pay for shipping back if they ship you a dead unit. Your 1 year warranty sounds better on paper but you just admitted it is window dressing since it will not be honored.

I'll be realistic and say who knows if green-sum will be around in a year but doesn't it feel a little deceptive to advertise a useless warranty? You can add all the little notes you want in the "agreement" but the bottom line is that you can't prove overclocking on these monitors. Not to mention any non fibbers who didn't overclock and run into a problem.

A warranty usually does little to change my buying decisions but I feel sorry for anyone who justified the inflated costs to themselves by saying at least they included a 1 year warranty.
Click to expand...

yeah for all intents and purposes this warranty really doesn't exist. The whole point of this was to get monitors that overclocked. Now if you get a monitor that doesn't overclock then you are screwed, because you can't return it, if you get a monitor that dies in a few weeks then you are screwed as well because there is no way Greensum will accept a return then because he knows you have overclocked it.

Basically all you are covered for is if it arrives DOA.

And Hypermatrix, sorry, but you using the comparison to Plasma's and Cars as example of things that you have to wait before using fully is flawed. They are completely different. You should be able to overclock these boards straight away. You are overclocking the PCB so this is more like overclocking a CPU then warming up a plasma. And who waits a few weeks before overclocking their CPU?
 
Darkhadou said:
I saw the replies to it and apparantly that measures the response time rather than the actual input lag?
Click to expand...

I'm not sure where you read that but, it's wrong. SMTT measures input lag though response time plays a role in this programs results (though I believe response time actually adds input input lag). PixPerAn measures response time. The only truly accurate test for input lag though is the way PRAD does it.
 
Sn0_Man said:
Nobody has received theirs yet. Mine is still in Korea but it is in progress so I anticipate delivery tomorrow/monday (unless weekend delivery? It is express but I dunno).

They are "out of stock" right now but really it is a complicated situation. The stock comes in about 100 a week, in batches. The first batch sold in 21 minutes...

The first batch was pre-sold before greensum even had his hands on any monitors, but he knew when he was getting them. It is possible the second batch will be sold in a slightly different way, I don't think it has been decided yet. If you really want to be kept up to date, check out 120hz.net.
Click to expand...

ty for the response, If I want to get a glossy non-2b type monitor, which one would be my best bet?

this one ?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CATLEAP-Q27...4923?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3375c8a18b
or
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220961455233

I'm guessing tempered glass ones are glossy, but how are they? is there a weird effect by having the tempered glass before the panel?
 
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Digital Viper-X- said:
ty for the response, If I want to get a glossy non-2b type monitor, which one would be my best bet?

this one ?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CATLEAP-Q27...4923?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3375c8a18b
or
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220961455233

I'm guessing tempered glass ones are glossy, but how are they? is there a weird effect by having the tempered glass before the panel?
Click to expand...

Nah, don't bother with the tempered glass.

All of the Catleap and Shimian models are glossy.
 
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