$999 EVGA 2080TI In Hand

Naieve

Gawd
Joined
Jan 20, 2010
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Hi All,

So I know I am not the only one who has been looking at the $999 2080TI cards since EVGA posted it to their product page.

Very little information on silicon revisions has been seen, with many people wondering if this would be the often talked about 300 revision.

So here it is.

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First time I have ever seen a graphics card box with ONLY a graphics card. And it is a $1000 graphics card lol.

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TU102-300-K3-A1

Has anyone seen a K3 yet???

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I will put this back together and see if I can sneak it into my computer under the hard tubing from my 1080ti. The block does not arrive until tomorrow.

Stay Tuned and we will see where the overclock hits.

If the photos don't show, her is an album link.

https://imgur.com/a/hoZGlr4
 
I'm guessing it's the same as the low end 2070. Silicon that doesn't boost as high with clock speed but it still fully functional will be binned into the lower end cards.
 
I'm guessing it's the same as the low end 2070. Silicon that doesn't boost as high with clock speed but it still fully functional will be binned into the lower end cards.

I agree, was expecting the 300 silicon instead of the 300a. But was surprised by the K3 instead of K1. As of yet I haven't seen anything showing K3.

Unfortunately, I will have to wait until tomorrow to install the card in my loop, I cant fit it under my hard tubing and will need to redo my loop tomorrow night when the hydrocopper comes in.

Megatim over on the EVGA forums got his too. He is showing a 2025mhz overclock with the 300 silicon. Makes me very hopeful.
 
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Well. I auto overclocked with the new nvidia scanner in EVGA X1. Figured why not.

Just got done with an hour of gaming at 2070mhz on the 2080TI Black with the 300 sillicon.

I will see what the Micron ram is capable of tomorrow.

But 2070mhz? On the lower tier? Binned? I have seen 300a chips people have posted with lower overclocks. Maybe because I am on water and they are binning for lower voltages and air cooling?

Happy and confused as to this marketing.
 
Well. I auto overclocked with the new nvidia scanner in EVGA X1. Figured why not.

Just got done with an hour of gaming at 2070mhz on the 2080TI Black with the 300 sillicon.

I will see what the Micron ram is capable of tomorrow.

But 2070mhz? On the lower tier? Binned? I have seen 300a chips people have posted with lower overclocks. Maybe because I am on water and they are binning for lower voltages and air cooling?

Happy and confused as to this marketing.


Generally binning with GPUs is all about how much voltage you need to hit stock clocks, since the factory power target is the limiting factor for performance here, and lower voltages means higher clocks at the stock TDP. If you are throwing it on water and cranking up the power target and don't care about power consumption even poorly binned cards will hit a good clock frequency.
 
Generally binning with GPUs is all about how much voltage you need to hit stock clocks, since the factory power target is the limiting factor for performance here, and lower voltages means higher clocks at the stock TDP. If you are throwing it on water and cranking up the power target and don't care about power consumption even poorly binned cards will hit a good clock frequency.

I agree with that. But the 300 cards are limited to 112% and the 300a are allowed 130%.
 
I'm guessing it's the same as the low end 2070. Silicon that doesn't boost as high with clock speed but it still fully functional will be binned into the lower end cards.

Same in the sense my "Low-end' 2070 boosts to 2025, and sticks 1995mhz or what? The A vs non A on the 2070 is pretty irrelevant with the exception of the 2070 Amp Extreme which does 2080 without issue.
 
Keep us updated please. I might be looking to upgrade as all the Nvidia 4xx drivers have somewhat broken my surround setup with my SLI 1080ti's. I have a workaround but it's getting pretty frustrating with the system not booting at times and such. Would have stayed on the super stable 399.07 drivers if BF5 did not demand the update. Willing to bet this is not a problem on their newer RTX hardware. Which block did you end up installing?
 
Keep us updated please. I might be looking to upgrade as all the Nvidia 4xx drivers have somewhat broken my surround setup with my SLI 1080ti's. I have a workaround but it's getting pretty frustrating with the system not booting at times and such. Would have stayed on the super stable 399.07 drivers if BF5 did not demand the update. Willing to bet this is not a problem on their newer RTX hardware. Which block did you end up installing?

I went with the EVGA Hydrocopper. Wasn't sure if the screws for a different waterblock would be long enough to install with the stock evga backplate, and the cost of buying a different block and backplate was the same as getting a hydrocopper which was guaranteed to work with the stock backplate. So just went ahead and ordered it all from EVGA.

I did see a post by a guy over on EVGA who said he used the stock evga backplate with a barrow block. I have seen the barrow block for $107. So that is a $70 savings. The hydrocopper looks pretty though lol.

I am definitely happy with the purchase. I would say anyone using water or a hybrid would do well to just get a card with the 300 silicon. The possibility of another 100mhz at $1.50 to $2 a mhz is just not worth it. The 300a silicon doesn't appear to have much of an advantage unless perhaps you are on air. At which point, why not just get the cheaper 2080ti and slap on a hybrid?

I have my core set at +239, and have taken my ram all the way up to 1000mhz, though I think there was a bit of error correction going on, and it was also limiting the power to the core it looked like. So I eased that back to 500.

My card is pretty steady around 2070mhz, and bounces to 2100mhz at times.

I will also tell you. I have been on SLI surround setups for many years. I am honestly happy with the performance of a single card in most games. So much less hassle and money. And at this point, I am getting good enough frame rates to make it playable. Even my 1080ti was okay on BF1 at 7680x1440
 
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I agree with that. But the 300 cards are limited to 112% and the 300a are allowed 130%.

No, the reference PCBs are limited to 112% in the stock BIOS. All of the reference cards up to this point have been 300a chips until they released the bargain bin non-A models.
 
I went with the EVGA Hydrocopper. Wasn't sure if the screws for a different waterblock would be long enough to install with the stock evga backplate, and the cost of buying a different block and backplate was the same as getting a hydrocopper which was guaranteed to work with the stock backplate. So just went ahead and ordered it all from EVGA.

I did see a post by a guy over on EVGA who said he used the stock evga backplate with a barrow block. I have seen the barrow block for $107. So that is a $70 savings. The hydrocopper looks pretty though lol.

I am definitely happy with the purchase. I would say anyone using water or a hybrid would do well to just get a card with the 300 silicon. The possibility of another 100mhz at $1.50 to $2 a mhz is just not worth it. The 300a silicon doesn't appear to have much of an advantage unless perhaps you are on air. At which point, why not just get the cheaper 2080ti and slap on a hybrid?

I have my core set at +239, and have taken my ram all the way up to 1000mhz, though I think there was a bit of error correction going on, and it was also limiting the power to the core it looked like. So I eased that back to 500.

My card is pretty steady around 2070mhz, and bounces to 2100mhz at times.

I will also tell you. I have been on SLI surround setups for many years. I am honestly happy with the performance of a single card in most games. So much less hassle and money. And at this point, I am getting good enough frame rates to make it playable. Even my 1080ti was okay on BF1 at 7680x1440


Thanks for the information. If they had a single fast card that would do the trick I'd be on it already. I've run SLI and XFIAH on and off for years now and do much prefer a single fast card. In BF5 I need to use Medium settings to keep 60fps with a pair of 1080ti's. I doubt I could do that with a single 2080ti so i'd be in for 2x plus the blocks if I pull the trigger. Thx again for the feedback.
 
No, the reference PCBs are limited to 112% in the stock BIOS. All of the reference cards up to this point have been 300a chips until they released the bargain bin non-A models.

I agree with this. But. They released the 130% bios for all 300a chip cards. At least EVGA did. And the 300 models have a 112% max on them, which it appears may remain unless you use modded bios. At least that is what it sounded like over at EVGA.
 
Thanks for the information. If they had a single fast card that would do the trick I'd be on it already. I've run SLI and XFIAH on and off for years now and do much prefer a single fast card. In BF5 I need to use Medium settings to keep 60fps with a pair of 1080ti's. I doubt I could do that with a single 2080ti so i'd be in for 2x plus the blocks if I pull the trigger. Thx again for the feedback.

What is your resolution? And are you sure SLI is working in BFV? I had 60fps with a single 1080ti at medium settings. In fact, I am well over that now with the 2080TI. Though there may be times it dips.

I do not play FPS competitively anymore, so it doesn't really annoy me like it used to. But I do understand the viewpoint.
 
What is your resolution? And are you sure SLI is working in BFV? I had 60fps with a single 1080ti at medium settings. In fact, I am well over that now with the 2080TI. Though there may be times it dips.

I do not play FPS competitively anymore, so it doesn't really annoy me like it used to. But I do understand the viewpoint.

Running 7680x1440. Confirmed SLI is working, I run with the afterburner OSD while playing. One of my numerous peeves with BF5 is it peggs both GPU's at 95-100% on the loading and score screens. I can use the preset high settings but I get fps dips into the 50's at times which is not good for me. At medium it stays pegged at 60 with both cards getting good use.

**EDIT**
Got to thinking about this. I'm going to disable SLI over the weekend and see what happens in BF5. If I can get away with running a single RTX2080ti that sure would be nice.
 
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It's all silicon lottery. But maybe this is the main thing, the 300 is allowed 112% power and the 300a the 130% power target, right? Considering that you are using water cooling, you should be able to hit relatively high speeds as long as power consumption is not a concern.

These $999 'black edition' cards seem worth it if you are willing to throw $1000 plus the price of a waterblock on it.

Well value is relative, right? I probably wouldn't blink at this in my enthusiast days when the price of watercooling was as much as the graphics cards itself. But the value proposition for the RTX series just feels wrong to me nowadays. I'm gonna wait for 30 series and stick with my 10 series card, but I do look forward to your results.
 
Well the NV control panel did not want to cooperate and allow me to disable SLI and still have surround. So I enabled DX12 in BF5 and the second card went inactive on it's own. Gameplay on a single 1080ti was not bad at all with medium settings. Did get some dips under 60 but it sure seems playable. Almost xmas too.. might have to bite the bullit and order a 2080ti and block.
 
Well the NV control panel did not want to cooperate and allow me to disable SLI and still have surround. So I enabled DX12 in BF5 and the second card went inactive on it's own. Gameplay on a single 1080ti was not bad at all with medium settings. Did get some dips under 60 but it sure seems playable. Almost xmas too.. might have to bite the bullit and order a 2080ti and block.

Sell the 1080 tis and break even or have money left over.
 
Played a bit more with settings yesterday and was able to increase to High quality with a custom profile by setting TAA to low with SLI enabled. Will see what happens with a single card today.
 
Well I played all weekend mixing it up and while a single card can carry the load at medium settings playing at high settings with SLI is definitely mo betta. So if I jump to a 2080ti setup it'll be for 2 of em. I really wanted to skip this gen on NV cards and the 2 I have can certainly do what I need them for still. But the driver issues with my 1080ti's is really pissing me off. If I were not looking at $2k to replace the current setup I'd have probably already jumped.
 
Well I played all weekend mixing it up and while a single card can carry the load at medium settings playing at high settings with SLI is definitely mo betta. So if I jump to a 2080ti setup it'll be for 2 of em. I really wanted to skip this gen on NV cards and the 2 I have can certainly do what I need them for still. But the driver issues with my 1080ti's is really pissing me off. If I were not looking at $2k to replace the current setup I'd have probably already jumped.
Hold off a bit longer. I'm in the process of RMA'ing my 13 day old EVGA Black edition card. It suffers from artifact issues and instability in games. So much for a later released card that Still has issues. No space Invaders, mind you, but moving from my 1080Ti to this puppy has been nothing but instability.

Let's hope the replacement is newer silicon. That's assuming later batches actually escape the "test escapes"
 
Hold off a bit longer. I'm in the process of RMA'ing my 13 day old EVGA Black edition card. It suffers from artifact issues and instability in games. So much for a later released card that Still has issues. No space Invaders, mind you, but moving from my 1080Ti to this puppy has been nothing but instability.

Let's hope the replacement is newer silicon. That's assuming later batches actually escape the "test escapes"

Been holding off for a few reasons... one of them being NV releases new drivers near weekly and I'm hoping one of them will fix the issues all the 4xx drivers have made me endure. Honesly I don't know how NV could fuck up a perfectly good running rig so badly. The 399 drivers were running great. The other reason I'm holding off other than the 2080ti's issues is to see if other people with them are having the same surround breaking issues I am having. So far it looks to be a 1080 only issue... which really pisses me off as it sure gives the appearance NV broke the old hardware.
 
Been holding off for a few reasons... one of them being NV releases new drivers near weekly and I'm hoping one of them will fix the issues all the 4xx drivers have made me endure. Honesly I don't know how NV could fuck up a perfectly good running rig so badly. The 399 drivers were running great. The other reason I'm holding off other than the 2080ti's issues is to see if other people with them are having the same surround breaking issues I am having. So far it looks to be a 1080 only issue... which really pisses me off as it sure gives the appearance NV broke the old hardware.

I don't use the surround feature so I don't know. I would Imagine they will get to it. While I think Nvidia power mad and greed obsessed, they're not stupid. Pissing off their entire community isn't something I see as their intent.

Did you jump on the Nvidia forums to inquire about it?
 
I don't use the surround feature so I don't know. I would Imagine they will get to it. While I think Nvidia power mad and greed obsessed, they're not stupid. Pissing off their entire community isn't something I see as their intent.

Did you jump on the Nvidia forums to inquire about it?

It's been reported on the forums... not a peep yet. https://forums.geforce.com/default/...d-has-problems-lots-of-info-in-post-/#5914043

I'm going to hold out a lil bit longer and pray for a real fix from drivers.
 
stress test all rtx 2080 ti 24/7 for 29 days before return period runs out, lot of them are reported dead due to rushed design defects, basically buying an rtx 2080 ti means one month waiting period
 
I've had my Black for ~2mos and I never bothered to check which variant I had and of course I have the TU102-300-K3-A1.

That said, I'm getting a killer overclock on it, on the stock fan with no voltage boost:

I'm running +250 core/+1000 memory, with no custom fan curve, nada. Stable.

I could probably get more out of it but I'm not even going to bother to try. I average ~6fps more in most 4k games maxed out.

My card is rockin'. I can only imagine what it will get on a hybrid cooler- maybe when I upgrade my whole setup I'll do that.
 
https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/208761/208761

Running on my card right now. My core clock used to bounce a lot, now it is rock solid.
Oh yeah, unofficial firmware. Not sure I want to flash to that.

My card is already stable 2340Mhz on air, so I think I lucked out and got one of the best Blacks out there, even on the standard fan profile and 112% power limit. Not sure I can do much better than that even if I boosted the power limit .
 
Oh yeah, unofficial firmware. Not sure I want to flash to that.

My card is already stable 2340Mhz on air, so I think I lucked out and got one of the best Blacks out there, even on the standard fan profile and 112% power limit. Not sure I can do much better than that even if I boosted the power limit .

It is official. For the Palit 2080ti.
 
Oh yeah, unofficial firmware. Not sure I want to flash to that.

My card is already stable 2340Mhz on air, so I think I lucked out and got one of the best Blacks out there, even on the standard fan profile and 112% power limit. Not sure I can do much better than that even if I boosted the power limit .
2340 on air? I dont believe that nonsense for a second. You sure as hell are not pushing the gpu under full load in a demanding 4k game then unless you somehow have the most magical 2080 ti on the planet. If you are actually seeing those clocks under a proper full load then they are being misreported and common sense should tell you that.

How about a dose of reality? Not a single 2080 ti tested here, including the one with an integrated watercooler, could do more than 2145 for a max gpu clock on binned cores. Yet here you are claiming 200 mhz higher on the cheapest 2080 ti made? :rolleyes:

https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/ASUS/GeForce_RTX_2080_Ti_Matrix/32.html

2080 ti MSI Lightning overclocked is only boosting to 2150 max and cant even maintain 2100.

https://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/msi_geforce_rtx_2080_ti_lightning_z_review,30.html
 
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2340 on air? I dont believe that nonsense for a second. You sure as hell are not pushing the gpu under full load in a demanding 4k game then unless you somehow have the most magical 2080 ti on the planet. If you are actually seeing those clocks under a proper full load then they are being misreported and common sense should tell you that.

How about a dose of reality? Not a single 2080 ti tested here, including the one with an integrated watercooler, could do more than 2145 for a max gpu clock on binned cores. Yet here you are claiming 200 mhz higher on the cheapest 2080 ti made? :rolleyes:

https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/ASUS/GeForce_RTX_2080_Ti_Matrix/32.html

2080 ti MSI Lightning overclocked is only boosting to 2150 max and cant even maintain 2100.

https://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/msi_geforce_rtx_2080_ti_lightning_z_review,30.html
Got me, that’s what Haven is reporting. I use it for gaming so Im not sure how to read accurate clock speeds. It says The temp is 75C at full load.

I’m stable with Afterburner @ +200 clock/ +1000 memory, and could probably go higher on the memory but it doesn’t seem to matter much. I wonder if upping the power limit would help as well.
 
Got me, that’s what Haven is reporting. I use it for gaming so Im not sure how to read accurate clock speeds. It says The temp is 75C at full load.

I’m stable with Afterburner @ +200 clock/ +1000 memory, and could probably go higher on the memory but it doesn’t seem to matter much. I wonder if upping the power limit would help as well.

Haven.
That's your issue right there. Haven has always reported inaccurate higher GPU clocks. It's a known bug from way back. Try using Afterburner or GPU-Z.
 
Sorry guys, I need the 124 % bios but the link you posted are no longer online.
Do you know where can I find the bios? (or can you please send the rom to me?)

Thank you
 
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