7 deg C Temp Drop in watercooling!, My Secret weapon!

Dunno

Limp Gawd
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I'm typing this on an old Athlon 900Mhz (@ 990Mhz) system with a home made watercooling system consisting of a waterblock pump and BMW radiator core.

I switched the machine on. Fraged for an hour did some surfing etc for another 2 hours and Motherboard monitor reported my temps as:
Case 27C
CPU 27C

I then switched on my secret weapon, placed in front of my Radiator intake fan, and temps are now 7 degrees lower!!!! :D

TDsmall.bmp


I think I'll let you all wonder what it is for a while :D

HINT: The secret weapon cost 300 Bucks (South African(divide by 6)) and was bought at a nursary. I also dont have to worry about condensation.

Can anyone guess???
:)


PS: These can be considered Idle Temps. Will do some Burn in with Sandra shortly.
 

mattsmall

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hmm 50 dollars is it a misting system? nice temps put some more volts into it and get a higher overclock
 

Obi_Kwiet

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I got a 7C case temp drop once just by cutting off the crappy case fans grills that block 90% of the air and putting two new one's in.
 

mattsmall

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Obi_Kwiet said:
I got a 7C case temp drop once just by cutting off the crappy case fans grills that block 90% of the air and putting two new one's in.

i had a case like that, i didnt clean the grill out and the computer was in my unfinished basement for 5 years and i wondered why my fan had died there was about 1/4 inch of solid dust in the front it was sick, i had pictures but i lost them somewhere.
 

madmat

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I think it's gotta be a misting system, a mist setup would be the only thing I could link to a nusery.
 

kbong

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How do you not worry about condensation with a mister? Don't misters spray water into the air?
 

Dunno

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KingThot said:
A breast milk pump?
:D :D :D

mattsmall, madmat, etc. win the Noddy Badges though! :D

Its a Piezo-Electric mist maker. The small one with only one ceramic disk. You get bigger ones with 3 & 5 disks, I think,as well.
Heres a LINK At the bottem right of this page is a pic of the exact same one I got.

The power supply consumes 30W but some searching revels that the Piezo-Electric ceramic disk is 95% efficient at turning high frequency Alternating Current into a physical shape change or vibration! So not much heat added to the water.
Uses about 80mL/hour of water, if I remember the panmphlet correctly.

My Rad is in a seperate enclosure underneath my case so non of the mist can get at my components. However the mist is all evaporated by the time it gets through the radiator. I just have clear, cold air on ther other side of the rad.
I'm very tempted to duct this cold air into the case!

The centrifugal force generated by the fan (220Volts!) keeps the centre/electrics bone dry! No power outages yet!

Another LINK
 

DFI Daishi

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kbong said:
How do you not worry about condensation with a mister? Don't misters spray water into the air?
as long as water is still evaporating off of the rad, then coolant in the loop is at a temperature that is above the dew point for that room.
 

Dunno

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Some Screen Shots taken at about 2pm in a room that gets the afternoon sun.
The mist maker was switched on during run 11 of Sandra Burn In when Cpu Temp had stabilised at 38C. Ambiant was 31C:

TDLHS.bmp

Sandra Burn In Graph. Mist turned on at run 11

TDLHMBM.bmp

MBM during run 20

TDLH2S.bmp

Sandra details showing the biggest temp drop

I THINK??? that all the mist is being used up/evaporated with room for more in this scenario. Time to buy another mist maker!/

My CPU temp is at 29C with motherboard temp at 30C as I type type this.

MistofSR6.bmp

Here the mist is turned off at run 6 later in the afternoon=lower ambiant temps.

I will post pics when the fancy cell phone arrives, but be warned: This is My test mule/backup machine and things are very much in the experimental stage!
:)
 

Dunno

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$#%$@ :mad: couldent get hold of the camera!

These are 2 shots taken with a Cell Phone.
Note: This is my test, backup, Home made system:
Pot2.jpg
[/IMG]
You dont get more getto than that! :D
Lets call it the experimental stage!
The mist IS actually being sucked in by that fan pretty fast.
The other shot is worse! :rolleyes:

I can post CAD Pics for the other system design after the weekend.
Going to Johannesburg early tomorrow!
 

OPUS1

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We look forward to hearing what happens when you duct a cumlinus nimbus cloud through ye rig :eek:
 

Dunno

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OPUS1 said:
We look forward to hearing what happens when you duct a cumlinus nimbus cloud through ye rig :eek:
:D
This is as close as I can get OPUS1. Unless... a reeeeeeely tall tower... :p

You can certainly hear the 220Volt fan Thewhiteguy, but its low pitched and does'nt worry me. The mist maker is silent, if thats what your asking?
:)
 

madmat

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I don't think I'd personally like the added humidity running through my PC as it can still speed up corrosion on exposed metal parts. just leaving bare metal laying around out of the rain here in the deep south with 90%-100% humidity will have it rusting in a day os so.
 

Dunno

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madmat said:
I don't think I'd personally like the added humidity running through my PC as it can still speed up corrosion on exposed metal parts. just leaving bare metal laying around out of the rain here in the deep south with 90%-100% humidity will have it rusting in a day os so.

If you live in a high humidity area evaporative cooling will probably not be worth it Madmat:
The air is already saturated with water and so little more will evaporate/cool.

How much corosion is there to your motherboard components etc??
This will give me some indication of what to expect if I do duct the cold air through the case. Its vented seperatly a.t.m.
:)
 

madmat

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With the A/C going the air is pretty well dehumidified but I shudder to think what a PC in a non A/C'ed home would look like. I have seen some that had quite a bit of rust on exposed steel parts inside the case but I dunno the details of their home lives since I never asked the customers.
 

Dunno

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madmat said:
With the A/C going the air is pretty well dehumidified but I shudder to think what a PC in a non A/C'ed home would look like. I have seen some that had quite a bit of rust on exposed steel parts inside the case but I dunno the details of their home lives since I never asked the customers.

Do you live near a sea coast?
From S.A. and my Goegraphy is a bit rusty. :)
 

madmat

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Nope, I live in Arkansas which is inland and bordered by 7 states. It's just humid as hell here year 'round, which in 40 degree weather is ok because you can be quite comfy in a t-shirt and jeans at 48*F on a good humid day but during the summer it sucks the energy right out of you because 90*F @ 100% humidity feels like 108-110* in a drier climate.
 

Dunno

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madmat said:
Nope, I live in Arkansas which is inland and bordered by 7 states. It's just humid as hell here year 'round, which in 40 degree weather is ok because you can be quite comfy in a t-shirt and jeans at 48*F on a good humid day but during the summer it sucks the energy right out of you because 90*F @ 100% humidity feels like 108-110* in a drier climate.

Know what you mean: Ive been in Ziare & Sierra Leone, for diamonds. Rains hot water! :D

Is the corrosion on the case only, or do motherboards and other such components also suffer? What about Aluminium?

Interesting to know what to expect.
THX!
:)
 

madmat

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From what I've seen, most electronics parts are equiped with aluminum or copper legs and yes, the exposed aluminum I've seen has taken on a whitish color from oxidizing, the stuff with copper is generally tinned with solder and lead is pretty slow to corrode but I've seen a whitish film on that too. I've even seen speaker wire that's sat out in my garage for a couple of years turn black. So you know that if the wires are corroding inside the speaker wire jacketing that wires inside your case can do the same thing.
 

Dunno

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madmat said:
From what I've seen, most electronics parts are equiped with aluminum or copper legs and yes, the exposed aluminum I've seen has taken on a whitish color from oxidizing, the stuff with copper is generally tinned with solder and lead is pretty slow to corrode but I've seen a whitish film on that too. I've even seen speaker wire that's sat out in my garage for a couple of years turn black. So you know that if the wires are corroding inside the speaker wire jacketing that wires inside your case can do the same thing.

OK then; Out it goes! :D
Dont duct this stuff through your case. Only use it with an external Radiator.
Or one in a seperate enclosure. ;)

I still plan to put mine in the top of a Koolance case though! :eek:
:)
 

DFI Daishi

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madmat said:
From what I've seen, most electronics parts are equiped with aluminum or copper legs and yes, the exposed aluminum I've seen has taken on a whitish color from oxidizing, the stuff with copper is generally tinned with solder and lead is pretty slow to corrode but I've seen a whitish film on that too. I've even seen speaker wire that's sat out in my garage for a couple of years turn black. So you know that if the wires are corroding inside the speaker wire jacketing that wires inside your case can do the same thing.
well, on thing to keep in mind is that corroding copper and aluminium are not as big a worry as iron/steel since the oxides form a protective outer layer that prevents further corrosing from eating away at the underlying material, meaning that the connections are not going to rot away or anything.

full points on led being slow to oxidize, though. the solder will hang tough for a good long time.

connectors that you will be connecting and disconnecting are a different matter, and should be treated with a conduction enhancer/oxidization protectant prodect. there are many on the market for high end audio equipment and some specialized automotive applications.
 

Majin

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The gas created by evaporating Dry Ice would be cool and then you wouldn't have to worry about condensation from a mister.

Get a 2L bottle of coke, cut off the top 3 inches, fill with some water and then drop in a 500 gram chunk of dry ice, that would work wounders I would think.

Plus you can help all the plants in your room with a nice shot of CO2
 

OPUS1

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Dunno said:
OK put down the dobe and step away from the rig !
Mist is one thing but if we find out your runnin the garden hose through your rig......well.......
Thats not what they mean by water cooling :eek:
Next thing we'll know is your chucking the computer into the pool :p
 

Dunno

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OPUS1 said:
OK put down the dobe and step away from the rig !
Mist is one thing but if we find out your runnin the garden hose through your rig......well.......
Thats not what they mean by water cooling :eek:
Next thing we'll know is your chucking the computer into the pool :p
:D

Every house has water and electricity Majin.
With a cistern (like the float, needle and seet from an old carburator) you can plug your computer into the the electrical and water outlet and switch on as usual.

Deffinatly have your radiator external, or in a seperate compartment in the case, with the air exhausting through the rad only.
:)
 

nst6563

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If you're going to do something like that, then why not make a resevoir that utilizes it. Since the heat in mist will dissipate faster than in a body of water it should make your wc loop that much more effective. Kinda like those "bong resevoirs" where they rain the water down to the bottom from the top...only you'd be misting it from the bottom up and the condensate would fall back down.

it'd be an interesting experiment...but since I don't have a wc setup I'll let someone else tear the idea apart :p
 

madmat

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I've had an idea for a bong rattling around in my head for a while in which air would be blown though the water droplets to further aid in the cooling. Those fans would be perfect for what I have in mind.
 

DFI Daishi

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madmat said:
I've had an idea for a bong rattling around in my head for a while in which air would be blown though the water droplets to further aid in the cooling. Those fans would be perfect for what I have in mind.
the water bongs that i am familiar with ALL use a fan to circulate air through the water droplets. they don't need waterproof fans, though. you just use a sanitary T fitting, so that the fan is off to the side and out of the way of the water.
 

DFI Daishi

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nst6563 said:
If you're going to do something like that, then why not make a resevoir that utilizes it. Since the heat in mist will dissipate faster than in a body of water it should make your wc loop that much more effective. Kinda like those "bong resevoirs" where they rain the water down to the bottom from the top...only you'd be misting it from the bottom up and the condensate would fall back down.

it'd be an interesting experiment...but since I don't have a wc setup I'll let someone else tear the idea apart :p
you'd need some quite ridiculously powerfull misters to do this. you would also need to make the bong out of something with good thermal conductivity, and have fins or the like on the outside so that the heat releasted by the condensing water has somwhere to go other than back into the coolant.

also, unlike a normal bong, this configuration does not have the capacity to cool below room temperature, which kind of makes it pointless as compared to a simple rad and fan.
 

madmat

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What I'm thinking of would have a y with the short leg facing down so that the airflow isn't making a sharp turn in the bong, the only factor before had been the possibility of water hitting the fan but the waterproof fans now nullify that worry.
 

nst6563

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DFI Daishi said:
you'd need some quite ridiculously powerfull misters to do this. you would also need to make the bong out of something with good thermal conductivity, and have fins or the like on the outside so that the heat releasted by the condensing water has somwhere to go other than back into the coolant.

also, unlike a normal bong, this configuration does not have the capacity to cool below room temperature, which kind of makes it pointless as compared to a simple rad and fan.


ok...well then how about something of a modified zalman reserator type of contraption?
Also...I'll admit I don't know much about wc setups...but does a normal bong setup have the capacity to cool below room temp? That's the impression I got from your post. I don't quite see the difference between a bong setup and a mist setup where the condensate falls back to the bottom. If the difference is a fan...then just add one?
 
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