42" OLED MASTER THREAD

MistaSparkul

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So the C2 trounces the Alienware in input lag?

I think so. 175Hz is a frametime of 5.71ms while 120Hz is a frametime of 8.33ms so you are suppose to be seeing a new frame on the Alienware 2.62ms sooner than you would on the LG C2 assuming both displays have 0ms of input lag, but since the Alienware has about ~4ms more input lag than the C2 I guess that means you aren't actually seeing a new frame sooner but rather later than the C2 because 2.62ms refresh rate advantage - 4ms input lag? Someone correct me if this is not at all how this works because I'm just guessing lol.

1653338447635.png
 

gamerk2

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I think so. 175Hz is a frametime of 5.71ms while 120Hz is a frametime of 8.33ms so you are suppose to be seeing a new frame on the Alienware 2.62ms sooner than you would on the LG C2 assuming both displays have 0ms of input lag, but since the Alienware has about ~4ms more input lag than the C2 I guess that means you aren't actually seeing a new frame sooner but rather later than the C2 because 2.62ms refresh rate advantage - 4ms input lag? Someone correct me if this is not at all how this works because I'm just guessing lol.

View attachment 476364
For all forms of LCDs, Response Time (typically measured in "best case" Grey-to-Grey transition times) measures how long it physically takes a pixel to chance state to reflect a new image. So essentially, Response Time measures the delay between when the display receives a new image to the screen and when it actually gets displayed by the pixels.

Input Lag is harder to define, but essentially is the processing delay between when an action is taken by the user and when that action finally gets reflected to the display (which implicitly includes the Response Time delay). And considering fixed-refresh timing windows, software processing, and pixel Response Time, it's not uncommon for this value to encroach upon and even exceed the time to render a frame to the display. The way I tend to qualify this is to ask a simple question: How many frames behind are the actions I am taking?
 

jbltecnicspro

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The newly announced LG 48" OLED monitor that has a 138hz OC is curious because 137hz is exactly how high my 42 C2 would go before blanking out. Displays it fine but frame skips.
Where is this new monitor announcement? Is it different than the C2 line?
 

MistaSparkul

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Where is this new monitor announcement? Is it different than the C2 line?

https://www.techpowerup.com/295248/...aming-monitors-including-48-inch-oled-version

It's completely different because it's not a TV at all but more of a regular monitor so you won't be dealing with a bunch of post processing things and smart apps. Now all the people who whine about their TV's not having monitor features/behaviors can just buy this instead, although Gigabyte has been doing this for a while already. LG is just late to the party with using their own OLED panels for a monitor.
 

jbltecnicspro

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https://www.techpowerup.com/295248/...aming-monitors-including-48-inch-oled-version

It's completely different because it's not a TV at all but more of a regular monitor so you won't be dealing with a bunch of post processing things and smart apps. Now all the people who whine about their TV's not having monitor features/behaviors can just buy this instead, although Gigabyte has been doing this for a while already. LG is just late to the party with using their own OLED panels for a monitor.
Nice! This totally is something I would want. Father of little kids, I have no desire for smart anything. This would be perfect for us.
 
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Got one of these from Costco, it arrived today. I grabbed a VIVO adapter and put it on my Ergotron LX. It supports it fine and gets it up off the desk a bit. Still feels pretty huge, will need to see if I'll get used to it.

Someone asked about remotes conflicting with each other. I can confirm this happens. I have a 55 C9 behind me in the same room and the power button on each remote affects both displays.
 

Gatecrasher3000

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https://www.techpowerup.com/295248/...aming-monitors-including-48-inch-oled-version

It's completely different because it's not a TV at all but more of a regular monitor so you won't be dealing with a bunch of post processing things and smart apps. Now all the people who whine about their TV's not having monitor features/behaviors can just buy this instead, although Gigabyte has been doing this for a while already. LG is just late to the party with using their own OLED panels for a monitor.


I look forward to the (hopefully) inevitable 42" version.
 

sharknice

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Got one of these from Costco, it arrived today. I grabbed a VIVO adapter and put it on my Ergotron LX. It supports it fine and gets it up off the desk a bit. Still feels pretty huge, will need to see if I'll get used to it.

Someone asked about remotes conflicting with each other. I can confirm this happens. I have a 55 C9 behind me in the same room and the power button on each remote affects both displays.
This is my solution. I rolled up some some of that cord concealment foam and shoved it under the power button where the remove sensor is. It blocks the signal enough that if the remote isn't close and directly pointed it won't turn it on.
I can still use the remote to turn it on and off while I'm sitting at my desk and my body blocks the signal from turning on the TV on the other side of the room.

20220525_221418.jpg



20220525_221459.jpg


It's not nearly as noticable as the first pic, I just have a light shining directly on it. You can't see it when the lights are off.
 

Blackstone

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https://www.techpowerup.com/295248/...aming-monitors-including-48-inch-oled-version

It's completely different because it's not a TV at all but more of a regular monitor so you won't be dealing with a bunch of post processing things and smart apps. Now all the people who whine about their TV's not having monitor features/behaviors can just buy this instead, although Gigabyte has been doing this for a while already. LG is just late to the party with using their own OLED panels for a monitor.
I don't get it. Can't all the post processing be disabled on the 42 inch TV? Why is this 48 inch monitor superior. It makes no sense since 48 it pretty much universally panned as being too big for desktop usage.
 

MistaSparkul

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DP 2.0 would be superior

On that monitor I think DP 2.0 makes no difference since it's max refresh rate is 138Hz and that can already be achieved with HDMI 2.1 but that's still something that it has over the TV regardless.
 
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So, just got my 42" C2 yesterday via Amazon. Fantastic monitor - really nice upgrade. Also a tight, but still workable fit for my desk. Love it!

C2 42inch OLED.png


My only real gripe is that the stand/feet it comes with are not adjustable. I get this is sold as a "TV", but I have a feeling that most folks buying this sucker are going to use it as a monitor. I just needed about 8 degrees of back tilt in order to achieve perfection. So... I modeled some custom "sleeve" feet that I could slip on over the existing front stand feet that would provide the tilt I needed. It's still very sturdy - only tilts it back just enough to achive the right ergos. Figured that's a much cheaper/practical solution than buying a whole new VESA mount/stand for it like others have.
Let me know if any of you are interested and I'll upload the .STL model file. I did it in three angle sizes to test out: 4, 8, and 12 degree tilt. The 8 degree sleeve works perfectly for me.

*EDIT*: I've uploaded the .STL here: https://www.printables.com/model/214391-42-c2-lg-oled-tv-stand-tilt-sleeve-feet

C2 Stand Foot Sleeve.png
 
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SoCali

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Lol I so needed something like that yesterday. I wanted the stock feet literally 1 inch taller and resorted to moving my entire desk and taking everything apart to mount it to a Ergotron HX.

On another note 120hz desktop looks super choppy to me coming from 175hz on the Alienware.
 

Blackstone

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Dumb question. VESA mounts are universal in size, correct? So if I had say a very old IPS monitor no longer in use that happened to come with a killer VESA stand (it telescopes, tilts, ect), is there any reason why i wouldn't be able to just pull that off and stick it on this 42 inch C2?

Another question, is the C2 light enough that pretty much any VESA monitor arm for a desk will be compatible?
 

celwin

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Dumb question. VESA mounts are universal in size, correct? So if I had say a very old IPS monitor no longer in use that happened to come with a killer VESA stand (it telescopes, tilts, ect), is there any reason why i wouldn't be able to just pull that off and stick it on this 42 inch C2?

Another question, is the C2 light enough that pretty much any VESA monitor arm for a desk will be compatible?
The are universal yes, but your mount may or may not have the VESA mount size to match your monitor. You will have to check the mount specs to see if the sizes it accomodates is the same as the C2.
 
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The are universal yes, but your mount may or may not have the VESA mount size to match your monitor. You will have to check the mount specs to see if the sizes it accommodates is the same as the C2.
Just to add, VESA pattern sizes for TV and monitor mounts are typically: 50 x 50mm, 75 x 75mm, 100 x 100mm, 200 x 200mm, 300 x 200mm, 300 x 300mm, 400 x 200mm, 400 x 300mm, or 400 x 400mm. Adapter plates are pretty cheap (~$13) if you don't have an exact match. The 42" C2 only weighs ~20lbs, so it is fairly light given its size. It uses a 300 x 200mm VESA mount.
 

Blackstone

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With the announcement of LG’s new OLED monitor, now I am second guessing using a 42 C2 on my desk. Are we on the cusp of a whole series of true desktop oriented products in the next few years. If that is the case, I’d hate to plunk a TV on my desk.

I am thinking there will be even better actual monitors produced and I should just wait.
 

noko

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LG 42" C2 available at my Local Bestbuy for pickup, tempting but just still on the too big size. I have a 50" QLED TV in the Bedroom hooked up to a computer and that while pretty good for gaming, not for regular stuff in my experience. Love the 21:9 aspect ratio, but would prefer 5K as in 5120x2160 in that ratio which are few and far in between of what I really want. If LG had a more dedicated OLED 42" PC monitor, ideally 38", that would be more tempting.
 

MistaSparkul

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120hz is not fast enough for OLED. The pixels are so fast that I can see the individual frames making for that choppy feeling.

The OLED monitor coming from LG later is going to have 138Hz but Lol we really need 240Hz OLEDs. Can't believe laptops will be getting 240Hz OLEDs this year while desktop monitors are left to dry for who knows how long.
 

DrekkenRidge

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So I have something to share, and then a call for help.

I wanted to share my new setup with the LG 42. Pardon the wire mess, and 10 year old mouse pad/food mat (I have a new one on the way from Amazon :) ).

FYI, the desk measures 72 by approximately 40 (approximately because it's life edge along the length of the table). I have my monitor placed about 31 inches from the end of the desk, which is about perfect. Previously I had a 48 inch that was placed near the back around 36 inches. If you're wondering why I "upgraded" from a 48" with such a deep desk, two reasons. One is I had a small room in need of a TV anyway where I could move the 48, and 2 is the 48 LG CX was still never ideal for the space, and I ended up craning my neck while gaming and had less desk space than I wanted.

Now for the two problems:

1.
In the first two photos you'll notice an alarming water mark in the center of the screen. The intensity varies based on which picture mode I select, but is often there. This is not actually burned into the screen but has something to do with settings. It goes away entirely, for example, if I open a browser window, even a browser window with an entirely black background. It literally only shows up when the screen acts as a desktop background, and in certain situations, but nevertheless bothers me. Here's the weird thing. It's not unique to this TV. I had the same thing happen on my 48 inch OLED. Has this happened to anyone else, and do you know what's causing it?

2. I can't get 120 hz, with the same graphics card and cable as I did on the 48", even without HDR turned on. I've tried updating the HDMI output to "PC", I've tried right clicking on display settings, both in windows and the Nvidia control panel. I've tried scrolling everywhere, and it's not listed as an option. I ordered a new HDMI cable for good measure today to see if that has any impact. I have a GTX 2080. Again, I was able to run 120 hz on the 48 inch LG CX without issues, without HDR albeit. Now if I turn off HDR, there's still no option anywhere to select 120 hz. I'm not sure if it has something to do with the move from 40 GBPS to 48 GBPS?

Thanks in advance.

head on.jpg
Head on with crazy watermark.jpg
Side angle 2.jpg
nature scene headon.jpg
 
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Ulrick32

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So I have something to share, and then a call for help.

I wanted to share my new setup with the LG 42. Pardon the wire mess, and 10 year old mouse pad/food mat (I have a new one on the way from Amazon :) ).

FYI, the desk measures 72 by approximately 40 (approximately because it's life edge along the length of the table). I have my monitor placed about 31 inches from the end of the desk, which is about perfect. Previously I had a 48 inch that was placed near the back around 36 inches. If you're wondering why I "upgraded" from a 48" with such a deep desk, two reasons. One is I had a small room in need of a TV anyway where I could move the 48, and 2 is the 48 LG CX was still never ideal for the space, and I ended up craning my neck while gaming and had less desk space than I wanted.

Now for the two problems:

1.
In the first two photos you'll notice an alarming water mark in the center of the screen. The intensity varies based on which picture mode I select, but is often there. This is not actually burned into the screen but has something to do with settings. It goes away entirely, for example, if I open a browser window, even a browser window with an entirely black background. It literally only shows up when the screen acts as a desktop background, and in certain situations, but nevertheless bothers me. Here's the weird thing. It's not unique to this TV. I had the same thing happen on my 48 inch OLED. Has this happened to anyone else, and do you know what's causing it?

2. I can't get 120 hz, with the same graphics card and cable as I did on the 48", even without HDR turned on. I've tried updating the HDMI output to "PC", I've tried right clicking on display settings, both in windows and the Nvidia control panel. I've tried scrolling everywhere, and it's not listed as an option. I ordered a new HDMI cable for good measure today to see if that has any impact. I have a GTX 2080. Again, I was able to run 120 hz on the 48 inch LG CX without issues, without HDR albeit. Now if I turn off HDR, there's still no option anywhere to select 120 hz. I'm not sure if it has something to do with the move from 40 GBPS to 48 GBPS?

Thanks in advance.

View attachment 477595View attachment 477594View attachment 477593View attachment 477579
I just received mine yesterday and so far I am really impressed. I have mine back roughly 27" and so far that works pretty well. I have a stand on order that should allow me to push to monitor back another inch or so. As for the watermark I strongly suspect you have a program on your machine that is applying the watermark. Evidence leading me to this conclusion is 1) is happens with multiple monitors 2) it goes away if you have a window open. Do you have a picture or video desktop background program you are using? As for 120hz, it could be that the newer LG models are pickier about the cable you use. I have not had any issues with 120 hz, though I do have a 3090 and I am using the game optimizer mode.
 

DrekkenRidge

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I just received mine yesterday and so far I am really impressed. I have mine back roughly 27" and so far that works pretty well. I have a stand on order that should allow me to push to monitor back another inch or so. As for the watermark I strongly suspect you have a program on your machine that is applying the watermark. Evidence leading me to this conclusion is 1) is happens with multiple monitors 2) it goes away if you have a window open. Do you have a picture or video desktop background program you are using? As for 120hz, it could be that the newer LG models are pickier about the cable you use. I have not had any issues with 120 hz, though I do have a 3090 and I am using the game optimizer mode.

Thanks for your advice. You're probably right about the program. I'll test later with my laptop hooked up to see if it goes away. I have no idea what program I have that would be causing it though.

I'll update after the cable gets here re: the 120 hz.
 

InaDaise

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Games and movies look great on the C2 42" that arrived Friday. Better than my Neo Qled 43" Samsung tv. Not going to hook up the C2 to the net, will just use the pc for that. I'll use a usb thumb drive to update the C2 when the time comes. Don't know yet if that's a reliable way to patch/update it.
 
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Games and movies look great on the C2 42" that arrived Friday. Better than my Neo Qled 43" Samsung tv. Not going to hook up the C2 to the net, will just use the pc for that. I'll use a usb thumb drive to update the C2 when the time comes. Don't know yet if that's a reliable way to patch/update it.
It's pretty easy to just turn evertything off in the menus when it comes to advertising, live plus, suggested content, etc., and then just leaving the wireless up for patch/update notification as well as to actually performing them. Fumbling with a USB stick to do it manually is a choice though I guess.
 

DrekkenRidge

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Well I got the nice high bandwidth HDMI cable in, and I still can't get either Nvidia control panel or Win 10 display settings to show anything more than 60 hz with my GTX 2080, even if I turn off HDR color and move to 8-bit RGB. I was able to go to 120 hz just fine with these settings with my 48 inch LG CX. So I'm left scratching my head and saying WTF....Unfortunately most of the forums speaking to the refresh rate issue are addressing the older TVs. Some of them say one needs to turn on "HDMI deep color" in the settings, but this does not exist as an option on the C2 picture settings (even in advanced).

I've tried setting the input in the TV settings from "HDMI" to "PC" and this didn't do anything to the available settings either. I'm not sure if there's any other 2000 series owners on here that would have ideas?
 
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sharknice

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Well I got the nice high bandwidth HDMI cable in, and I still can't get either Nvidia control panel or Win 10 display settings to show anything more than 60 hz with my GTX 2080, even if I turn off HDR color and move to 8-bit RGB. I was able to go to 120 hz just fine with these settings with my 48 inch LG CX. So I'm left scratching my head and saying WTF....Unfortunately most of the forums speaking to the refresh rate issue are addressing the older TVs. Some of them say one needs to turn on "HDMI deep color" in the settings, but this does not exist as an option on the C2 picture settings (even in advanced).

I've tried setting the input in the TV settings from "HDMI" to "PC" and this didn't do anything to the available settings either. I'm not sure if there's any other 2000 series owners on here that would have ideas?
Sounds like the thing where you need to choose PC or TV resolutions in the Nvidia control panel where you set the resolution.
I'm not at my PC otherwise I would screenshot it for you.
 
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Whach

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Sounds like the thing where you need to choose PC or TV resolutions in the Nvidia control panel where you set the resolution.
I'm not at my PC otherwise I would screenshot it for you.
This is exactly it. Encountered this when I setup my 48” C1 yesterday. Must go to the “PC” resolution settings below the TV ones.

Also, what OLED brightness setting is everyone using? (Not the standard brightness menu)
 

Whach

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Well I got the nice high bandwidth HDMI cable in, and I still can't get either Nvidia control panel or Win 10 display settings to show anything more than 60 hz with my GTX 2080, even if I turn off HDR color and move to 8-bit RGB. I was able to go to 120 hz just fine with these settings with my 48 inch LG CX. So I'm left scratching my head and saying WTF....Unfortunately most of the forums speaking to the refresh rate issue are addressing the older TVs. Some of them say one needs to turn on "HDMI deep color" in the settings, but this does not exist as an option on the C2 picture settings (even in advanced).

I've tried setting the input in the TV settings from "HDMI" to "PC" and this didn't do anything to the available settings either. I'm not sure if there's any other 2000 series owners on here that would have ideas?
May sound like silly question, but did you make sure the HDMI port you are using is the one marked 120hz? Worth a go
 

Happy Hopping

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1) how many of you has to hide the windows task bar to avoid burn in?

and if you do have to hide that bar, do you still get burn in elsewhere on the screen

2) for OLED monitor such as the Aorus monitor,

https://www.gigabyte.com/Monitor/AORUS-FO48U#kf

in which the port is HDMI 2.1 or Display Port 1.4

what if your video card is HDMI 2.0 / Display Poart 1.4a, would it work w/ the monitor that requires HDMI 2.1 ? (I temporarly forget the different btwn display poprt 1.4 vs. 1.4a

3) w/ the burn in issue, will a OLED monitor last 7 to 10 yr.? or would it all "wash out" after 2 to 3 yr.?
 
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InaDaise

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Should I use the screen move option on my C2 42" that moves the image slightly pixel by pixel or just use Windows 10 screensaver? I notice with the screen move option the Win screensaver doesn't go on. And what about the argument that the screen move won't work on large bright logos because the pixel move rotation area stays within the logo?
 

InaDaise

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Also, what OLED brightness setting is everyone using? (Not the standard brightness menu)
I'm using Vivid preset which I think sets the brightness pretty high. I know some can't stand that preset but I like bright vivid colors. I'm coming from over 20 years of Samsung tvs and monitors which have the bright saturated colors I tend to like. I get the feeling LG includes Vivid to keep former or current Samsung users. Don't know if that's a silly statement considering that Vivid could simply be part of personal viewing preferences of users in general.
 

Whach

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Should I use the screen move option on my C2 42" that moves the image slightly pixel by pixel or just use Windows 10 screensaver? I notice with the screen move option the Win screensaver doesn't go on. And what about the argument that the screen move won't work on large bright logos because the pixel move rotation area stays within the logo?
I turned on all of the pixel shifting and logo safety features. I also have the screen to shut off after 20 mins of inactivity. In addition, I have windows set to start a black screen saver after 5 mins and sleep all screens after 10. Only thing to note is that I must power on the tv every time as it won’t auto wake like a monitor would.

I also use wallpaper engine to run an animated wallpaper and use the software to make all icons transparent. And of course, hide the task bar.
I’ll suppose I’ll know if any of it works months down the line.
 

dgrdsv

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what if your video card is HDMI 2.0 / Display Poart 1.4a, would it work w/ the monitor that requires HDMI 2.1 ? (I temporarly forget the different btwn display poprt 1.4 vs. 1.4a
It depends on if said videocard supports DSC on DP 1.4 and if said monitor does so on its DP port as well.
If both do then you can use DP 1.4 just as well as you can HDMI 2.1.
If either doesn't then you will be (physically) limited to 98Hz in 4K/10bit over DP 1.4. It likely means 60 or 75Hz in practice though since 98Hz isn't a mode which is usually exposed in EDIDs.

Most common examples here are Maxwell/Pascal cards (which don't support DSC over DP 1.4) and Turing cards (which do support DSC over DP 1.4).
On the AMD side cards starting with 5000 series (RDNA1+) support DSC on DP but anything older don't.
 

Happy Hopping

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you know, worst case, I can always buy a new video card. But these problem w/ OLED such as Burn in, is a more serious problem. I feel like some of us is jumping on to the bandwagon just like 5 yr. ago, 4K LED comes out, and the only one who makes it at the time is Philips, and so many of us jumps in, and look what happens. It only last 4 yr.
 

Whach

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you know, worst case, I can always buy a new video card. But these problem w/ OLED such as Burn in, is a more serious problem. I feel like some of us is jumping on to the bandwagon just like 5 yr. ago, 4K LED comes out, and the only one who makes it at the time is Philips, and so many of us jumps in, and look what happens. It only last 4 yr.
Yeah. I have a feeling I’ll be buying an actual monitor in a couple of years. But the quality of OLED is too good to pass up for me right now. I e had my dell u3011 1600p monitor for 10yrs now lol
 
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Yeah. I have a feeling I’ll be buying an actual monitor in a couple of years. But the quality of OLED is too good to pass up for me right now. I e had my dell u3011 1600p monitor for 10yrs now lol
Ditto - now that I have the 42" C2 and see first hand what it is capable of when used as a monitor, no regrets here at all - would buy it again in a heartbeat. I'm not on it all day - and with a few tweaks like enabling the screen saver in windows again and having the task bar auto-hide when not moused over, I have pretty much zero concerns about any burn-in issues. It's been demonstrated over and over again that unless you are leaving high contrast static images in one spot for multiple hours a day, each and every day, that burn in simply isn't something you need to worry about.
 
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