3D Print Your Own Kaby Lake DeLid Tool

FrgMstr

FrgMstr

Just Plain Mean
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This was posted over on the 3D Center Forums. The post points to an "Intel Kaby Lake delid tool" design that can be implemented on a 3D printer.

A simple delid tool that for chopping Intel Kabylake and Skylake CPU

The author of the design does not have a 3D printer to try it out and test on, but I know some [H]'ers that do. If one of you guys wants to print this up using some "[H]ard" plastic, which I think would certainly be needed, I will subject it to abuse here if you want to ship it over.
 
Hey Kyle, I printed this out but don't have a chip to try it on. I'd be happy to send it to you. If you want it shoot me your address (PM) and I'll get it out for you tomorrow.

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I would be high concerned about the 3D printed material breaking unevenly and damaging the CPU somehow. Nothing I've seen printed on cheap printers has been very rigid.
 
yeah, when you guys get a decent a tungsten carbine printuing tool ( I mean atomic deposition sharp), call me.
 
if anyone has one of these, and wouldn't mind loaning it out, I'd pay shipping both ways and try to gift you something to make it worth yourwhile. LMK

I need the skylake one BTW
 
JNavy89GT said:
if anyone has one of these, and wouldn't mind loaning it out, I'd pay shipping both ways and try to gift you something to make it worth yourwhile. LMK

I need the skylake one BTW
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If you or anyone is in socal, send me a pm.
 
thesmokingman said:
The assumption here is that the force needed to break the glue is spread around the IHS instead of just using blunt force to one spot or side. I'd assume it would be safer... it looks like it'd be safer. Personally I have the rockit delidder and that uses a screw to apply force to the IHS.

http://www.tomshardware.com/news/auqa-computer-skylake-delid-spacer,30806.html
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Oh I fully understand how it works, if machined exactly you would be putting force on the four corners as you turned it. Not exactly rocket science. But the fact is you are using "blunt force" on four pinpoint spots at the corners instead of evenly along one edge. I am not arguing for or against here, just sharing my thoughts after delidding a few here with this Delid Die-mate Tool.
 
The Aquacomputer one is much harder to print than the one which uses a vise. I have tried them both. The locating pins on the Aquacomputer are the fragile area and easily broken. I broke three during assembly of the tool. Ended up taking four button head screws and used them as the locating pins partially screwed into the base.

The same guy who did this Kaby Lake model has ones for Sky Lake and Ivy Bridge also. It is very simplistic in design and it just plain works. When I went to delid my 6700 I did use a small blade to ease the corners a bit before sticking it in the tool. Then it only took two complete rotations of the vise handle to pop off the lid. Easing the corners was probably completely unnecessary.
https://www.youmagine.com/chri/designs
 
Just out of curiosity, about how much is it costing to print up one of these things? I have literally no clue, I have never messed with this stuff.
 
ir0nw0lf Depends on your printer. If you own your own FDM printer the material cost is about $1 USD. A printing service will charge you about $20-30USD depending on material.
 
Looks too fragile for the task imo, i doubt the plastic will hold.
 
"We will see if we can get around to breaking something expensive later today."...I love how you have the BALLS and RESOURCES to do so. :)
 
Seventyfive said:
Your best bet is to go to https://www.3dhubs.com/ and find someone local to your area.

For reference, the cheapest guy by me will print it for $6
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Oh I have real intent on wanting something printed up, just curious what this kind of stuff typically costs. But I guess something like these deLidder :) tools, cost might as big a deal, esp. if they work well and don't break/wear down quickly.
 
Ocellaris said:
I would be high concerned about the 3D printed material breaking unevenly and damaging the CPU somehow. Nothing I've seen printed on cheap printers has been very rigid.
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You're assuming a cheap printer is being used in the first place. You're also assuming every 3D printing material is the same and there aren't various other settings that affect the quality and accuracy of the print. The design can also easily be redesigned should they not handle the stresses involved.

I will vouch for Spacy9 , he does outstanding work and is helping me on a separate project. I would be interested to see how these work out. If I upgrade my system, I may ask him to print one of these de-lidding tools for me also.
 
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I just 3D printed the Ivey Bridge one and Skylake one. I'll be trying it out on an IvyBridge CPU tomorrow. :D

Then, if it turns out to be successful, and easy, I'll do it to my Skylake Proc.
 
I'll probably print the skylake once I see if there's a difference between the 40% and the 100%. All I've got right now is PLA, hope that's good enough!

Ohh and I need a vice.... I have a c-clamp that would probably work tho.
 
I was about to delid a 6700K for the tool test, but figure I might as well get some temps first. DOH!
 
geeze that shock when it let go was a bit unsettling!! I might have to redesign/do a bit of tweaking to that design to alleviate this if i give it a go!

Top job all-round lads!
 
HoffY said:
geeze that shock when it let go was a bit unsettling!! I might have to redesign/do a bit of tweaking to that design to alleviate this if i give it a go!

Top job all-round lads!
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as long as the cpu holding block is hitting the inside of the pressure piece at the same time or before the cpu hits the edge of that overhang it should be a non issue. at that point the only risk is if the whole thing shatters.
 
The originator used a piece of foam on the inside to cushion the blow. At least on the first one posted to YouMagine. I used mine just like Kyle did (sans foam) with no issues.
HoffY said:
geeze that shock when it let go was a bit unsettling!! I might have to redesign/do a bit of tweaking to that design to alleviate this if i give it a go!

Top job all-round lads!
Click to expand...
 
Oddly disturbing *and* satisfying when it went POP. The 40% tool looks like it held up quite nicely. But would it hold up after several+ beatings?
 
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