3D Print Your Own Intel Delid Tool for Skylake & Kaby Lake @ [H]

Discussion in 'Intel Processors' started by FrgMstr, Feb 9, 2017.

  1. FrgMstr

    FrgMstr Just Plain Mean Staff Member

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    3D Print Your Own Intel Delid Tool for Skylake & Kaby Lake - A lot of us have come to find out recently that Intel once again skimped on the Thermal Interface Material inside these processors' Integrated Heat Spreaders. You can fix that issue however, and now there are some ways to do it safely. If you have a 3D printer, you can make the process a lot safer, and the tools needed much less expensive.
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2017
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  2. Cobra

    Cobra 2[H]4U

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    Another great video. I'm too much of a coward to do something like this to my brand new CPU, but I might consider it a couple years down the road.
     
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  3. TheHobbyist

    TheHobbyist Hugs Hard Johnnies [H]ard

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    In the articles and subsequent discussions, I believe you mentioned that one of the crucial steps was re-lidding the processor. The first tool used assisted in the re-lidding process as I understood. Does this 3d printed tool design assist with re-lidding?
     
  4. FrgMstr

    FrgMstr Just Plain Mean Staff Member

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    No it does not. But with a bit of finesse and a clamp you can do just as good of a job. Actually that sounds like another good video project.
     
  5. Napoleon

    Napoleon Gawd

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    I just have to say, I am enjoying the DIY project related posts and articles.

    Physically tinkering with my computer has always been enjoyable yet recently the fact that OC'ing has been more mainstream has taken some of that fun away (AIO's, factory hardware support, tons of enthusiast hardware and case options). It used to feel like we were getting away with something by squeezing out some extra performance.

    Keep up the good work!
     
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  6. Meeho

    Meeho [H]ardness Supreme

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    The good days when this
    [​IMG]
    was the OC tool of choice.
     
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  7. SixFootDuo

    SixFootDuo [H]ardness Supreme

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    Kyle, this may be asking too much of you but would it be possible since you do seem to have several new Kaby's if you could show us the process from start to finish. From the delidding, the scraping of the stuff you have to remove, maybe a few hints on how to be careful, application of the liquid metal and the adhesive you used to reapply the metal cpu lid. I personally would feel comfortable having a blue print so to speak. There are a few on the web but 1 - they are not in 4k ( your 4K is amazing ) 2 - Those aren't HardOCP branded or narrated by yours truly and 3 - I think a lot more people would do this if they had a start to finish.

    Something to consider. Or, you may already have this planned.

    Also, I think the 4k is a great tool. Would love to see more videos maybe one a month.
     
  8. TokiWartooth

    TokiWartooth n00b

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    Hasn't he already done that? The video posted last week showed the entire process of delidding, scraping off adhesive, applying liquid metal, and the reapplying of the IHS. What more do you need to see?
     
  9. NoxTek

    NoxTek The Geek Redneck

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    I guess I'm gonna have to find a kind soul who will 3D print one of these tools for some Paypal $$$. :D
     
  10. FrgMstr

    FrgMstr Just Plain Mean Staff Member

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    All that is actually already there in the series of video is you watch.
     
  11. -PK-

    -PK- [H]ard|Gawd

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    He also makes a 3d printed relidding tool. https://www.youmagine.com/chri/designs
     
  12. iwhocorrupts

    iwhocorrupts Limp Gawd

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    I had an Ivy delid tool printed .. ended up using a razor blade to finish the job.
     
  13. kju1

    kju1 2[H]4U

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    $12 for a 5" c clamp? Nuts. I picked up a 5" one last summer for $4.99 at walmart. You can probably get them for less than $12 at lowes or home depot also.
     
  14. Chri

    Chri n00b

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    Hy Guy`s

    I`m the creator of the 3D Printed Delid tools, i just found the posts on HARDOCP website.

    First of all Thanks to Kyle for the great Presentation of the Tool :)

    Just some in addition, for the responses i got (and also your video) it seems that the Kaby Lake has more / better glue than the Sky Lake, so it is better to screw the vice even slower than you did to give the glue time to peel off.

    In Addition, PLEASE DONT USE A HAMMER ! :eek:, it`s not designed to do it this way.

    Even with screwing my skylake very fast i noticed that the PCB was bending a little bit while it was under pressure so with a hammer, i don`t know what may happen to the PCB inside:cry:

    To the C-Clamp, i also recommend this method only limited, especial when the mounts are very small.
    the reason is if someone is printing it with poor quality (and i already saw such prints), it may brake the tool apart.
    So if you really use a C-Clamp at least please use some sort of small woodplate (or similar) that has the size of the tool to distribute the force equally.

    could you please share the information why it didn`t worked for you ?
    As i only have a Skylake CPU i could delid i also had no Ivy-Bridge CPU to do so, so any information for fixing the tool would be nice :)



    sincerly Chri
     
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  15. iwhocorrupts

    iwhocorrupts Limp Gawd

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    I think it was just a matter of the print not being structurally sound. It collapsed on me rather than delidding the chip.
     

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  16. Chri

    Chri n00b

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    Oh okay, that definitly looks like a printing issue, too much perimeters and bonding problem between them :/

    Chri
     
  17. Creig

    Creig Gawd

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    Possibly printed at too low of a temperature for the type of filament being used.
     
  18. FrgMstr

    FrgMstr Just Plain Mean Staff Member

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  19. Mango_Reinhardt

    Mango_Reinhardt n00b

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    That looks like your hotend temperatures were too cold for the material. You could also try changing the print orientation next time so the clamp forces are inline with the layers for more strength.
     
  20. iwhocorrupts

    iwhocorrupts Limp Gawd

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    Most likely. Honestly I just sent the plans to a friend at a university and he had it printed on campus, don't know any more details.
     
  21. MrE

    MrE 2[H]4U

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    It looks like your extrusion multiplier for the initial layer height is set too high in your slicer, or, your Z offset is too far from the bed. That will cause delamination of the layers as well.

    While PLA can be strong, I'd think this is the kind of tool you want to use ABS or PETG primarily with where strength is required.
     
  22. AceGoober

    AceGoober Live! Laug[H]! Overclock!

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    These videos bring a whole new aspect to [H]. Anyone can write words of what their experience is with such-an-such tool yet a video showing the tool in action speaks volumes. Thanks for taking the time to create these videos and keep up the good work, Kyle. (y)
     
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  23. FrgMstr

    FrgMstr Just Plain Mean Staff Member

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    Yeah, this stuff needs more than words IMO. Thanks for the props.
     
  24. kju1

    kju1 2[H]4U

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    I vote full WHACK. Go big or go home.
     
  25. Chri

    Chri n00b

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    ABS is too weak when printing normal, got already some pictures with slightly damaged tool`s,
    PLA is much more harder than ABS, just print two parts and knock them on the desk, you hear the difference ;)

    Chri
     
  26. MrE

    MrE 2[H]4U

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    Not sure I agree with that assessment. PLA tends to be more brittle. Most prototype tools and parts are printed in ABS for its strength, especially if you vapor bath your parts. PETG has the best of both worlds (structural rigidity, easy to print). Check out Tom's on Youtube where his strength tests compare ABS to PLA and Nylon, HIPS, PETG. He tests layer adhesion, strength, temperature exposure.

    As a side note, I hate printing in ABS. Bed warping is super irritating, especially on larger printed parts where you run the bed upwards of 110c and keep the fans set to minimum.
     
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  27. FrgMstr

    FrgMstr Just Plain Mean Staff Member

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    Last edited: Feb 10, 2017
  28. russnuck

    russnuck Gawd

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    Why not cut a shallow groove into the piece of wood? That way it wouldn't slip around or tilt as much when you strike it. Perhaps also a larger hammer (4 pound sledge) with a slower strike.

    Just thoughts.
     
  29. Virtual_Bomber

    Virtual_Bomber Limp Gawd

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    Do you think a rubber mallet would work directly on the tool itself? (might not be a hard enough hit though :-/ ) A deadblow hammer would work better on that wood so it wouldn't bounce off of it so hard.
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2017
  30. FrgMstr

    FrgMstr Just Plain Mean Staff Member

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    Yep, got both....but I think most people surely have access to a claw hammer.
     
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  31. ir0nw0lf

    ir0nw0lf [H]ardness Supreme

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    Kyle, do you have access to something like a hydraulic press? :p
     
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  32. ccmfreak2

    ccmfreak2 Limp Gawd

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    "I didn't want to use a new expensive one." - Kyle

    Chicken!
     
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  33. Nukester

    Nukester [H]ard|Gawd

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    Lord, that would be cringe worthy!
     
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  34. DWolvin

    DWolvin [H]ard|Gawd

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    Beer, yes.
    Whisky, maybe not.
    MoJo? Search the DC forum... :)
     
  35. Creig

    Creig Gawd

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    It's 40% and 100% infill, not backfill. Backfill is usually material that gets dumped into a hole at a construction site.
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2017
  36. Twisted Kidney

    Twisted Kidney 2[H]4U

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    You're destroying, or at least trying to destroy processor that are better than what I'm running Kyle.

    I need to start a website so I can have an excuse to buy shit I don't need.
     
  37. FrgMstr

    FrgMstr Just Plain Mean Staff Member

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    I did buy that CPU.
     
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  38. FrgMstr

    FrgMstr Just Plain Mean Staff Member

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    Noted and corrected in the article. Not going to shoot the video again! Thanks!
     
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  39. cageymaru

    cageymaru [H]ard as it Gets

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    Kyle was like Tim the Toolman when he transitioned from the broken 40% tool to the 100%. More Powa!
     
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  40. russnuck

    russnuck Gawd

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    Oh but he He does need it! All in the name of science!