![[H]ard|Forum](/styles/hardforum/xenforo/logo_dark.png){kind=logo}
34" 21:9 UltraWide Displays (3440x1440) - LG UM95/UM65 & Dell U3415W
- Thread starter anonuser
- Start date
I ordered a Sapphire 290x Tri-x OC card today in preparation for this monitor. I'm going to shove it into my LL V354 until I can build a newer rig when the new Intel chips come out. I may go dual 290x if a single one doesn't do the properly enough. Now to find the UM95 at a price I like. 
I have the LG calibration kit I will use on mine when I get it.
If you run the LG calibration software, does it adjust settings on the monitor itself or just generate a profile for the computer to load?
Not that Amazon will ship the one I ordered anytime soon, but if I can use a $160 dollar calibrator with the LG software and get decent results, I'd rather do that than spend $240 for a more feature rich software package.
I ordered a Sapphire 290x Tri-x OC card today in preparation for this monitor. I'm going to shove it into my LL V354 until I can build a newer rig when the new Intel chips come out. I may go dual 290x if a single one doesn't do the properly enough. Now to find the UM95 at a price I like.
I don't know how my setup compares, but im maintaining atleast 60FPS with most settings turned all the way up.
I don't think a dual 290x solution will be needed =p
I'm hoping not. I would prefer to stick to single card for less problems not to mention costs but time will tell. I need to get my hands on a UM95 now to find out.
brokenblade30
n00b
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2014
- Messages
- 19
Like the previous user...I could not get mine past 60hz at all. Freaked out at 62Hz. I am using an AMD R9 295X2 with CRU.
brokenblade30
n00b
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2014
- Messages
- 19
I also am curious about this. Since we will be using the LG Software that comes with the monitor do we have to spend as much on the Calibrator? For instance the Spyder 4 has 3 different levels: Express ($114), Pro ($170), and Elite ($250). Is it true that you pay more for more software calibration features but the same hardware? If we will not be using the Spyder software, do all the calibrators do the same things from a hardware standpoint?
From what I can tell, the Spyder4Pro and Spyder4Elite are identical hardware wise. You can actually upgrade the Pro to an Elite for $99 at any point in time. The Spyder4Express actually appears to be different, as it doesn't have an ambient light sensor (or something).
Hopefully someone with all the goodies in hand can run some tests.
If the LG hardware calibration sucks, I can see how it would make sense to splurge for a better software package.
Depends on which games you play.
I'm only at 2560x1600 at the moment and already see the benefits of 290X CF for games that support crossfire. Not saying you HAVE to have 290X CF -- you can game with even a 7970/680 and be happy, especially since developers aren't pushing the envelope (all they care about for the last two gens is porting to all systems
). I used to think crossfire was for epeen or multi-monitor displays (I hate bezels, so I never cared for EyeFinity), but I can definitely tell the difference in gameplay smoothness and visual improvements when using 2560x____ or bigger resolutions. Probably moreso at 3440x1440!Will be going 21:9 soon, but waiting for reviews on Dell's upcoming U3415W release before jumping on the LG. Dell's release will likely bring price drops to LG's UM95, too, so it's a win-win to wait.
Last edited:
nightrider
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Jun 8, 2004
- Messages
- 157
NewEgg raising the price up by $100 dollars really burns me.
Will be looking to Amazon if I get this monitor.
Will be looking to Amazon if I get this monitor.
mike_j_johnson
Gawd
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2004
- Messages
- 961
It internally calibrates my current LG 21:9, so I am sure it will do the same with this new display. It also generates a color profile.
I recommend you guys use Color Sustainer...great little app!
http://www.guru3d.com/files_details/color_sustainer_download.html
Excellent! I'll keep my eyes out for a sale on a Sypder4Pro or a ColorMunki then.
Hello guys. I am really having a hard time deciding between the lg 34 or the benq 32 2560x1440
I have a 2560x1440 27 but feel its to small
The games that i will be playing will support 21.9
My gpu is the r9 290. I7 4770k plents of room for a future card to
I really have no idea what one to get. Kinda leaning towards the 32 2560x1440.
I have a 2560x1440 27 but feel its to small
The games that i will be playing will support 21.9
My gpu is the r9 290. I7 4770k plents of room for a future card to
I really have no idea what one to get. Kinda leaning towards the 32 2560x1440.
Well, I have been working with this for a few days, and I must say I am pretty happy with it. I work from home and I found myself using the split screen software a bit this morning, works very well. The extra real estate comes in handy for sure.
I also hooked some speakers to it via the USB Hub, (Bose Companion 5). No problem getting my Windows 7 laptop to use it, (laptop connected via display port). No problem with my rMBP either, (via thunderbolt). However, I cannot seem to get anything connected via the HDMI to use the speakers, like my AT&T Wireless Uverse box or my Xbox 360. I'm sure it is something wrong that I am doing, not even sure if it is suppose to work that way.
Any thoughts?
I also hooked some speakers to it via the USB Hub, (Bose Companion 5). No problem getting my Windows 7 laptop to use it, (laptop connected via display port). No problem with my rMBP either, (via thunderbolt). However, I cannot seem to get anything connected via the HDMI to use the speakers, like my AT&T Wireless Uverse box or my Xbox 360. I'm sure it is something wrong that I am doing, not even sure if it is suppose to work that way.
Any thoughts?
Pretty bad in the sense that it's noticeable during normal usage? Or bad in the sense that you only notice it on all-black screens?
misterbobby
2[H]4U
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2014
- Messages
- 3,814
Every IPS panel I have tried has had horrible glow in at least one corner.
That would be VERY noticeable to me in movies and games.
elvn
Supreme [H]ardness
- Joined
- May 5, 2006
- Messages
- 5,295
An ips nor a TN are the best for movies really. The black levels and detail-in-blacks especially. The best would be crt/plasma > VA tv .. then probably IPS and lastly TN.
Most monitors are blasting bright out of the box which exacerbates backlight bleed and glow effects. Without knowing what his settings are you have to take the extremity of his photo with a grain of salt. Not displaying a desktop or photo at all (even a black/dark image) is also an extreme thing. You also have to consider variance in cameras vs your eyes. For example, my fw900 crt would often look very pale and washed out next to a lcd in photos when in reality it was quite the opposite.
Regarding calibration it is helpful to produce a baseline but calibration is usually done right up against the screen in a dark room. Once you change the lighting at all from that, your eyes will perceive contrast/brightness and saturation differently. Allowing varying light conditions throughout the day will also change how your eyes see your screen. Imo it's best to use color calibration or profiles as a baseline, then tweak to your actual computer room/studio's lighting arrangement. It's also best to keep enough lighting to match daylight to night so there is no huge lighting swing. On my living room TV/home theatre I keep 4 sets of settings for different lighting conditions since it allows for 4 sets on a quick selection tool quite easily. That allows me to watch with appropriate contrast/brightness and saturation with full daylight (window behind the tv), dusk, dim, and full dark.. as well as the selections being a quick tweak for variances between different video content that might be darker/brighter in itself.
Of course any direct light sources hitting a monitor (glossy or not) will pollute the display also, so if at all possible it is best to have all direct lighting (windows, lamps, etc) behind the backs of the monitor(s), or at most, inline/adjacent to, at least while you are using it. The stereotypical setup of a desk as an afterthought stuffed up against a wall like a bookshelf is one of the worst setups possible (acts as a catcher's mitt for direct light pollution). Overhead banks of fluorescent lights or track lighting are also horrible.
Most monitors are blasting bright out of the box which exacerbates backlight bleed and glow effects. Without knowing what his settings are you have to take the extremity of his photo with a grain of salt. Not displaying a desktop or photo at all (even a black/dark image) is also an extreme thing. You also have to consider variance in cameras vs your eyes. For example, my fw900 crt would often look very pale and washed out next to a lcd in photos when in reality it was quite the opposite.
Regarding calibration it is helpful to produce a baseline but calibration is usually done right up against the screen in a dark room. Once you change the lighting at all from that, your eyes will perceive contrast/brightness and saturation differently. Allowing varying light conditions throughout the day will also change how your eyes see your screen. Imo it's best to use color calibration or profiles as a baseline, then tweak to your actual computer room/studio's lighting arrangement. It's also best to keep enough lighting to match daylight to night so there is no huge lighting swing. On my living room TV/home theatre I keep 4 sets of settings for different lighting conditions since it allows for 4 sets on a quick selection tool quite easily. That allows me to watch with appropriate contrast/brightness and saturation with full daylight (window behind the tv), dusk, dim, and full dark.. as well as the selections being a quick tweak for variances between different video content that might be darker/brighter in itself.
Of course any direct light sources hitting a monitor (glossy or not) will pollute the display also, so if at all possible it is best to have all direct lighting (windows, lamps, etc) behind the backs of the monitor(s), or at most, inline/adjacent to, at least while you are using it. The stereotypical setup of a desk as an afterthought stuffed up against a wall like a bookshelf is one of the worst setups possible (acts as a catcher's mitt for direct light pollution). Overhead banks of fluorescent lights or track lighting are also horrible.
Last edited:
More pictures? Better after you changed settings? Etc?
FYI -- I found an image of this in comparison to a PLP 20/30/20 setup (which has been relegated to backup duty):
elvn
Supreme [H]ardness
- Joined
- May 5, 2006
- Messages
- 5,295
It's 20 pixels less than this setup I had going, minus the bezels too of course. Adding +880 to the 2560x width rather than the 900 my 1440x900 did in portrait mode.
The big gain for me would be no bezels and all ips on that, my desktop/app side of the desk.
Size comparisons again, as a link b/c I don't want to keep spamming it.
http://www.web-cyb.org/images/lcds/4k_21x9_2560x-27in-and-30in_1080p_same-ppi.jpg
The big gain for me would be no bezels and all ips on that, my desktop/app side of the desk.
Size comparisons again, as a link b/c I don't want to keep spamming it.
http://www.web-cyb.org/images/lcds/4k_21x9_2560x-27in-and-30in_1080p_same-ppi.jpg
Is your Retina macbook a late 2013 model or an older version?
WorldExclusive
[H]F Junkie
- Joined
- Apr 26, 2009
- Messages
- 11,548
Just got mine, IPS glow pretty bad:
His glow is down right terrible. I would send that back. It's almost like a the backlight of a TN panel.
If I showed you my U3011, you'll see the difference between normal reflective glow and excessive bleed.
The bottom and top are obvious signs of quality issues.
i'm in the same boat man
i'm just waiting for the tftcentral.co.uk review for the benq, baddass is currently reviewing it.
check twitter @tftcentral
The Dark Session
n00b
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2014
- Messages
- 48
Can somone put the U95 near a 27" LCD? I wanna see how high they are.
elvn
Supreme [H]ardness
- Joined
- May 5, 2006
- Messages
- 5,295
I like the one I made better (measured using photoshop grid) better since it compares vs centered and other resolutions.
2560x1440 is in the center, with +440 on each side to get +880 ~> 3440 wide.
Games and images, virtual camera FoV's, etc. on a monitor "grow" from the center rather than adding to one side.
The question asked was physical size though, which can vary by different mfg's housings.
LG 21:9 15.50" x 32.70" x 3.30" (H x W x D) w/o stand
some 27" (mostly 2560x1440) monitor sizes w/o stand:
25.9" x 16.1" x 2.2" (659 x 410 x 57 mm).
25.31" x 15.2" x 2.74"
25.2 x 14.9 x 3.3 in.
2560x1440 is in the center, with +440 on each side to get +880 ~> 3440 wide.
Games and images, virtual camera FoV's, etc. on a monitor "grow" from the center rather than adding to one side.
The question asked was physical size though, which can vary by different mfg's housings.
LG 21:9 15.50" x 32.70" x 3.30" (H x W x D) w/o stand
some 27" (mostly 2560x1440) monitor sizes w/o stand:
25.9" x 16.1" x 2.2" (659 x 410 x 57 mm).
25.31" x 15.2" x 2.74"
25.2 x 14.9 x 3.3 in.
Last edited:
Just got mine, IPS glow pretty bad:
It just NOT noticable in anything other than wierd black transtion screens . I also think this is partially the posters shitty camera as mine is NOTHING like that at all and quite possibly the best display ive ever owned. I am a display freak and super ass picky. This is the display ive been looking for my entire life and im not kidding.
only things that would make this BEST EVER hardware would be G-Sync and 120hz. that aint happenning for many years down the road
Could you do another one with 1680x1050, 1920x1080 and 2560x1080 in it?
Then I can better see, what I can expect when switching from my current 22"monitor to the 34Um65 model.
Here is mine and my setup - For a reference point, directly above the 34UM95 is a 32 Vizio TV and to teh left is a mounted Dell U3011 acting as an extended desktop. All of which are vesa mounted of course. Boom goes the dynamite.
Hey you've got the same screen layout I'm considering. You don't see too many vertical stackers going on!
Can I ask - do you flit between sometimes gaming on the lower superwide and then sometimes gaming on the 32 screen you have above? If so, how do you do it and do you like it/ does it work well for you?