27" QNIX QX2710 Evolution 2 impressions

sethk said:
Thanks for the quick response. I was hoping that the exactly 2:1 scaling (in each dimension) from 1280 x 720 -> 2560 x 1440 would work even without a "real" scaler, but I guess not. Not a big deal, I'm not sure that I would ever really connect this to anything other than my PC.
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You're welcome :). And unfortunately no, it wouldn't work, as I said.
 
Okay so both my Qnix's came in and they look great, but when people talked about panel play, they were not joking. This thing rattles inside the bezel like it's just being held there. Fortunately, I'm gonna crack it open to get rid of the stand since I bought a couple of free standing desk lcd mounts from monoprice for next to nothing and those are well constructed. So I'll be opening the monitors up and doing the tape thing and getting rid of the stand and making sure everything is in order and tightly attach it back to the bezel and I'll get back to you all.
 
Methadras said:
Okay so both my Qnix's came in and they look great, but when people talked about panel play, they were not joking. This thing rattles inside the bezel like it's just being held there. Fortunately, I'm gonna crack it open to get rid of the stand since I bought a couple of free standing desk lcd mounts from monoprice for next to nothing and those are well constructed. So I'll be opening the monitors up and doing the tape thing and getting rid of the stand and making sure everything is in order and tightly attach it back to the bezel and I'll get back to you all.
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If you don't mind , take pictures of your step by step fixes. I know there are other people that have done it but it would be nice to see someone here on this forum fix the panel play issue and post some pics to help those with the same problem. Understandable however if you don't want to , totally up to you :)

Also tell us what frequency you got them to as well :cool:
 
Godmachine said:
If you don't mind , take pictures of your step by step fixes. I know there are other people that have done it but it would be nice to see someone here on this forum fix the panel play issue and post some pics to help those with the same problem. Understandable however if you don't want to , totally up to you :)

Also tell us what frequency you got them to as well :cool:
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I'll try that. Give me some time.
 
I installed the big monoprice cable today, and I'm getting scan lines at 120hz. I don't get these lines with the cable that came with the monitor. If anybody is considering buying the cable, and they are running fine without it I would probably pass on it. I basically wasted $13 after shipping. I also replaced the Korea cable and adapter that goes to the power brick. The power brick that came with it is the only piece that I'm concerned about being not great quality. Is there a better alternative that would work with this monitor?

As much as I hate having to disassemble this thing since it's so perfect I'm pulling the angled base off and installing one of these probably next week.

http://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Articulating-Bracket-Monitor-ML10B/dp/B000ID7QNI
 
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Liqq said:
I installed the big monoprice cable today, and I'm getting scan lines at 120hz. I don't get these lines with the cable that came with the monitor. If anybody is considering buying the cable, and they are running fine without it I would probably pass on it. I basically wasted $13 after shipping. I also replaced the Korea cable and adapter that goes to the power brick. The power brick that came with it is the only piece that I'm concerned about being not great quality. Is there a better alternative that would work with this monitor?

As much as I hate having to disassemble this thing since it's so perfect I'm pulling the angled base off and installing one of these probably next week.

http://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Articulating-Bracket-Monitor-ML10B/dp/B000ID7QNI
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Does your green-sum pixel perfect have a red sticker like this on the box? It's the one with the red background and white text, ignore the other sticker which should be on all monitors. I checked the manufacturer's website and they have 2 different products, one pixel perfect and one regular. It's not the seller that determines whether it's pixel perfect but the manufacturer.

saXoXfO.jpg
 
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Liqq said:
I installed the big monoprice cable today, and I'm getting scan lines at 120hz. I don't get these lines with the cable that came with the monitor. If anybody is considering buying the cable, and they are running fine without it I would probably pass on it. I basically wasted $13 after shipping. I also replaced the Korea cable and adapter that goes to the power brick. The power brick that came with it is the only piece that I'm concerned about being not great quality. Is there a better alternative that would work with this monitor?

As much as I hate having to disassemble this thing since it's so perfect I'm pulling the angled base off and installing one of these probably next week.

http://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Articulating-Bracket-Monitor-ML10B/dp/B000ID7QNI
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You might need to use the CRU.exe utility to tighten your timings instead of any auto clock utility. Also backing off to say 118 makes little to no overall difference in motion that would be easily detectable with your eyes and may help you out.

For fun today I experimented with the cable supplied by Qnix and the Monoprice beast to see if there was any true difference. My results were that I could only achieve about 103hz with the Korean supplied DL-DVI cable while the Monoprice cable provided me with a solid 120hz. There are times when my screen gets a little tiny error line that pops up for one second and then goes away for a long time afterwards (hours or until I switch resolutions which isn't often). So it seems there is a difference between the two , or the Korean supplied cable has a fault I haven't detected or manually inspected for.

I've heard other people say they get scan lines if they crank up the refresh rate regardless of what they do otherwise so you may just be stuck in that regard.

Anyway if you are unhappy with your cable simply make Monoprice refund it for you. I've dealt with Monoprice RMA before and they were great.
 
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this is the only sticker on my box.

I did notice today I got a few very faint green, red or blue lines during spawn screens in BF3, and once in awhile during games at 120hz. I bumped it down to 96hz for now. I looked at that CRU utility but was lost haha. I did my resolutions in Windows.
 
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Yea CRU allows you to really fine tune frequencies which is sometimes required in order to stop weird glitches and such. When you feel more brave , I still recommend it heh.
 
Ok, so using CRU I'm currently running at 110Hz just to sort of test it out. I haven't seen any of the lines like I did at 120Hz. I might throw that monoprice cable back on, and bump it back to 120Hz, as I made a CRU profile for it or whatever. I didn't do any fine tuning in CRU at all, so I'm not sure if it would have a positive effect.

The more time I spend with this thing the more I love it, such a great buy!
 
Same here, Liqq... same here. I can't wait to start pushing mine tomorrow! Even at 96hz it's great though, and the value is insane (both absolutely and relatively).
 
I can't wait until I receive QX2710. I was enjoying my Dell u2913 but the motion handling started bothering me. I guess I am so used to 120Hz now that I can't go back to a 60Hz.

So, I'm looking forward to getting QX2710 and pushing it to 120Hz if possible.
 
Godmachine said:
Awesome :) Thanks. :cool:
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Well, pics aren't forthcoming. As I was taking them, I didn't check to see if they were viable or worthy and by the time I was done and look at them, they were all so dark as to be worthless. Sorry for the photo fail.\

However, I will say that the mods were and are super easy to do. The hardest part is popping the plastic bezel and making sure you don't pull out the LCD without loosening the tabs on the metal bracket on both side. Also, be careful when you lift the entire LCD out of the back of the housing that you do it gently so you don't yank on the cables/wires attached to the connectors.

On the left and the right of the bottom inside of the plastic housing you will see 4 plastic nubs. Put 3 to 4 pieces of electrical tape over them. This will raise the metal bracket slightly enough to get rid of the panel play.

Also, taking the metal bezel off of the LCD will be slightly tricky. Remember the position of the left and right metal brackets. The top of the bracket should be flush with metal LCD bezel. Also, it should hang below the metal bezel slightly at the bottom. Remember it's orientation as well. Unscrew the metal plate covering the LCD PCA from the metal LCD housing. Use a flat head screw driver to pop off the bezel at the snap points. Patience is required here because you do not want to slip. Loosen the tabs all the way around and slowly pull the metal bezel from the LCD.

Once you have that done, then you can lay down electrical tape on the inside of the metal bezel. Hang the tape half way off the edge and fold it over. Do it to all 4 side. Once that's done, orient the metal bezel properly and then snap it back into place. Lightly tap over the metal snap areas to get them to bend around the snaps to hold the metal bezel in place because you may have bent them slightly to get it off.

Rescrew the brackets back on and tip the LCD upside down so you can plug in the connectors. Lay down the LCD and orient it gently. make sure the brackets set and snap in properly. Then put the front plastic bezel back on. Snap it into place. and viola, you should be done. I also removed the stand stub and the speakers too. I didn't need either of them.
 
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Methadras said:
Well, pics aren't forthcoming. As I was taking them, I didn't check to see if they were viable or worthy and by the time I was done and look at them, they were all so dark as to be worthless. Sorry for the photo fail.\

However, I will say that the mods were and are super easy to do. The hardest part is popping the plastic bezel and making sure you don't pull out the LCD without loosening the tabs on the metal bracket on both side. Also, be careful when you lift the entire LCD out of the back of the housing that you do it gently so you don't yank on the cables/wires attached to the connectors.

On the left and the right of the bottom inside of the plastic housing you will see 4 plastic nubs. Put 3 to 4 pieces of electrical tape over them. This will raise the metal bracket slightly enough to get rid of the panel play.

Also, taking the metal bezel off of the LCD will be slightly tricky. Remember the position of the left and right metal brackets. The top of the bracket should be flush with metal LCD bezel. Also, it should hang below the metal bezel slightly at the bottom. Remember it's orientation as well. Unscrew the metal plate covering the LCD PCA from the metal LCD housing. Use a flat head screw driver to pop off the bezel at the snap points. Patience is required here because you do not want to slip. Loosen the tabs all the way around and slowly pull the metal bezel from the LCD.

Once you have that done, then you can lay down electrical tape on the inside of the metal bezel. Hang the tape half way off the edge and fold it over. Do it to all 4 side. Once that's done, orient the metal bezel properly and then snap it back into place. Lightly tap over the metal snap areas to get them to bend around the snaps to hold the metal bezel in place because you may have bent them slightly to get it off.

Rescrew the brackets back on and tip the LCD upside down so you can plug in the connectors. Lay down the LCD and orient it gently. make sure the brackets set and snap in properly. Then put the front plastic bezel back on. Snap it into place. and viola, you should be done. I also removed the stand stub and the speakers too. I didn't need either of them.
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You forgot to mention the most important part! Did you have any back light bleed before taking it apart? If you did, is it gone now?
 
Jinru said:
You forgot to mention the most important part! Did you have any back light bleed before taking it apart? If you did, is it gone now?
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Oh sorry. One monitor has no back light bleed at all, but the other has some in the lower left hand side.. I don't know if it's something I did or didn't do, but it's there and totally unnoticeable during normal use. However, no dead pixels on either monitor. I will be taking down that monitor opening it up again and making sure I didn't do anything wrong. Even given that and I take it apart, deem that all looks good, put it back together and it still has backlight bleed, then I'm not going to sweat it. That is the risk I took in buying these monitors so cheaply. I can live with it.
 
Yeah my top left corner has some but hard to notice up there...though I do have two spots bottom middle either side of the logo. Not too tall and wide but the left of which is pretty damn bright and can be seen on greys even to say nothing of full black. Pretty sure it's related to the bezel and/or metal frame inside.
 
Update: I was able to fix most of the backlight bleed after taking the unit apart again reorienting the electrical tape. However, after putting it back together again and turning it on, there is just one small stubborn spot, but I'm not going to worry about it. I have no dead or stuck pixels and that little bit of bleed, so it's a fair cop and the mods I did went a long way to getting it close to perfect. So all in all, not a bad investment.
 
Methadras said:
Update: I was able to fix most of the backlight bleed after taking the unit apart again reorienting the electrical tape. However, after putting it back together again and turning it on, there is just one small stubborn spot, but I'm not going to worry about it. I have no dead or stuck pixels and that little bit of bleed, so it's a fair cop and the mods I did went a long way to getting it close to perfect. So all in all, not a bad investment.
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Is there a how-to you used for this? Never tried it. Any tips?
 
Pulling the trigger on a matte version once excellentcastle accepts my $300 offer. I've been through it all this past year, I bought a u2713h - horrible for fps gaming. The u2412m and u2312hm, has good input lag, but just wasn't enough to keep me from the u2713h. Finally got a vg248qe and it is by far THE best gaming solution, however, screen resolution, size and horrible colors hasn't swayed me over. So, this is my end-all,be-all solution of having a bit of both worlds of quality and performance.
 
BETA. said:
Pulling the trigger on a matte version once excellentcastle accepts my $300 offer. I've been through it all this past year, I bought a u2713h - horrible for fps gaming. The u2412m and u2312hm, has good input lag, but just wasn't enough to keep me from the u2713h. Finally got a vg248qe and it is by far THE best gaming solution, however, screen resolution, size and horrible colors hasn't swayed me over. So, this is my end-all,be-all solution of having a bit of both worlds of quality and performance.
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He'll take your $300. He took mine at $300, but then again I bought two. Couldn't be happier. Oh and this is for all of you, do not buy a lot of the monoprice stands that say they can handle the weight or the height of these monitors. Especially the ones that have the single arms. They can't. They will sag the instant they go off center or angle and it will be a nightmare trying to line them up horizontally and vertically. Find another solution. Even though the base looks flimsy, they might be a better solution after all.

It wasn't a deep investment, but with a lot of work and post modifications, I finally was able to get them to play nice.
 
How did I miss this?

I have one stuck green pixel and my Crossover needs color calibration.

Getting 96 Hz would be awesome. This is so tempting.
 
Methadras said:
He'll take your $300. He took mine at $300, but then again I bought two. Couldn't be happier. Oh and this is for all of you, do not buy a lot of the monoprice stands that say they can handle the weight or the height of these monitors. Especially the ones that have the single arms. They can't. They will sag the instant they go off center or angle and it will be a nightmare trying to line them up horizontally and vertically. Find another solution. Even though the base looks flimsy, they might be a better solution after all.

It wasn't a deep investment, but with a lot of work and post modifications, I finally was able to get them to play nice.
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Looks like they're all out of the office, dang it.

Hi ------,

excellentcastle is out of the office until 05/19/2013 and may not be able to respond to your message.

Message from excellentcastle:
Dear, Buyer

From now on,
We are out of office due to holidays in South Korea.
As soon as we get back to our office,
We will reply your message.

Hope have a great weekends!

Cheers!

Regards,
Fiona, Excellentcastle =D
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J Macker said:
How did I miss this?

I have one stuck green pixel and my Crossover needs color calibration.

Getting 96 Hz would be awesome. This is so tempting.
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You can go to tftcentral.net or 120hertz.net to get icc color profiles.
 
wrigleyvillain said:
How did you have to reorient the tape exactly compared to how you originally placed it?
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What I did is that I actually put the electrical tape on the panel itself. I also left the electrical tape on the metal bezel that sits around the panel cause it was a huge pain to remove. The tape went around the border, just below the visible area around the panel. I used the metal bezel as my guide.
 
Methadras said:
You can go to tftcentral.net or 120hertz.net to get icc color profiles.
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Thanks. I did that last night and loaded a profile for my Crossover, but it didn't seem to stick.

Is there a special trick to get it to work?
 
J Macker said:
Thanks. I did that last night and loaded a profile for my Crossover, but it didn't seem to stick.

Is there a special trick to get it to work?
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Uh, not sure. There are tutorials out there to help you with that.
 
Methadras said:
Okay, so I went on a hunt to find a stand that can deal with these monitors and ended up on Amazon and found a couple that look like will work.

http://www.amazon.com/Monitor-Mount...dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1

http://www.amazon.com/Halter-Monito...&qid=1368807768&sr=8-1&keywords=lcd+stand+27"
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http://www.amazon.com/Triple-Monito...UTF8&colid=2VVYFH99B6CLO&coliid=I55Q59W7YWNPJ

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MonMount-Tr...=US_Monitor_Mounts_Stands&hash=item43b95b94f5


I am trying to remember where I got mine from........

EDIT:

thank god for search:
http://www.tykesupply.com/

https://www.easymountlcd.com/

those guys stands are legit

I have a 27 IPS on one already
 
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Ok , stupid noob question time. Do I still need to calibrate the monitor if I downloaded and used ICC profile? and do I need to recalibrate each time I change profiles? I'm just about settled on some Asus profile that makes BF3 colors really pop.

I've also noticed if I keep desktop at 120hz along with my games I get weird lines in game on occasion but if I leave desktop at 60hz and run games at 120 then its flawless.
 
Methadras said:
Okay, so I went on a hunt to find a stand that can deal with these monitors and ended up on Amazon and found a couple that look like will work.

http://www.amazon.com/Monitor-Mount...dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1

http://www.amazon.com/Halter-Monito...&qid=1368807768&sr=8-1&keywords=lcd+stand+27"
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I can personally vouch for the 2nd link, been using this stand for ~ 3 years strong. However, the one I bought was only rated for I think 22-24 inches @ like 20 lbs. Right now I have my 16:9 27" on the right and my 16:10 24" on the left with 4 inch gap. They're most likely the exact same stand, except the ratings probably have changed.

ExcellentCastle accepted my $300 offer and I am expected delivery next week according to the ebay page delivery estimate. Tacked on a square trade warranty with 40% off. Brings my investment total to $329.99. My body is ready.
 
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BETA. said:
I can personally vouch for the 2nd link, been using this stand for ~ 3 years strong. However, the one I bought was only rated for I think 22-24 inches @ like 20 lbs. Right now I have my 16:9 27" on the right and my 16:10 24" on the left with 4 inch gap. They're most likely the exact same stand, except the ratings probably have changed.

ExcellentCastle accepted my $300 offer and I am expected delivery next week according to the ebay page delivery estimate. Tacked on a square trade warranty with 40% off. Brings my investment total to $329.99. My body is ready.
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Cograts on the new monitor, I just received mine this week.

How did you manage the 40% off on the square deal trade warranty?
 
spacecowboy said:
Cograts on the new monitor, I just received mine this week.

How did you manage the 40% off on the square deal trade warranty?
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Thanks!

Squaretrade regularly sends emails with xx% off coupons. So, when you go to their website, get a new plan under electronics and select ebay purchase, input the item number and it'll automatically bring up the product, then you input the code and check out.

I have an extra 30% off; $30 max coupon available if you want it. After 5/20 it drops to only 20%.
 
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Liqq said:
Ok , stupid noob question time. Do I still need to calibrate the monitor if I downloaded and used ICC profile? and do I need to recalibrate each time I change profiles? I'm just about settled on some Asus profile that makes BF3 colors really pop.

I've also noticed if I keep desktop at 120hz along with my games I get weird lines in game on occasion but if I leave desktop at 60hz and run games at 120 then its flawless.
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Well every monitor is different so individual calibration is the best route if PQ is paramount for you. Whatever pleases your eye alone is the true result IMO.

Yea , considering these monitors are not "designed" to run at 120hz that's no surprise. Consider it the price to pay for such a high refresh rate honestly. But I would downclock your refresh rate and reap the benefits of high refresh rates even for basic desktop usage , its a night and day different in my own eyes.
 
I haven't overclocked my monitors yet and i don't think my 8800 actually will do that either. Can anyone verify that or is there any software out there that will let me do a bypass and up the frequencies? Also, I'm having the darnedest time right now trying to figure out how low I should bring down the backlight levels since there is no OSD to guide me. How are you guys doing that right now? Just counting your clicks?
 
Okay, here is another update. So I went online to see if there was a utitlity that would allow me to ovreclock these monitors without having to go through my nvidia control panel which didn't allow me to do that because i run an older gpu (8800 ultra). So I found one. It's called CRU: http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU?page=1

Works like a charm and if you overdrive your monitors and they get all wonky, then just reboot into safe mode and click the reset all icon that came with the program and reboot. Viola. So far I'm sitting at 100hz without a problem. 110hz and 120hz are no good for me, but that's okay. the image is smooth as silk and no frame drops. Great utility.
 
Methadras said:
Okay, here is another update. So I went online to see if there was a utitlity that would allow me to ovreclock these monitors without having to go through my nvidia control panel which didn't allow me to do that because i run an older gpu (8800 ultra). So I found one. It's called CRU: http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU?page=1

Works like a charm and if you overdrive your monitors and they get all wonky, then just reboot into safe mode and click the reset all icon that came with the program and reboot. Viola. So far I'm sitting at 100hz without a problem. 110hz and 120hz are no good for me, but that's okay. the image is smooth as silk and no frame drops. Great utility.
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Even easier utility here in this article by EVGA : http://www.rockpapershotgun.com/2013/03/04/week-in-tech-overclock-your-monitor-with-nvidia/

Makes it completely idiot proof to overclock a monitor (once you install Toasty X's patch of course).
 
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