2600K + H50 hitting TJMax?

I dont really think the H50 is all that great of a Cooler to be honest. Before I sold my AMD rig I installed the H50 I got from bestbuy for 80 bucks & I couldnt get good temps off it at all. Reapplied Tim & everything. With my Corsair A70 I was pulling in 23c @ 3.6 ghz & full load of 31c. This is the fans running at 1600RPM & no the Fans are not Loud

I was getting Idle temps of 34-36c on the H50 & I couldnt get them any lower. I tried AS5, Shin Etsu X23, Antec SIlver 5 & Noctua NT-H1. I returned the damn thing and got my money back. I would either grab a Air cooler or Grab the Rasa Kit. My buddy has one and its really a great Kit for 130 bucks. If my A70 didnt kick so much ass Id grab one myself
 
I know you said you reapply some TIM? What did you use? If you just used some 'fresh' AS5. I would just ditch the junk. I used AS5 on my i7930 and my load temps and idle temps where crazy high. Replaced it with some shin-etsu (which what comes on the H50 to begin with) and temps dropped way down to more acceptable levels.

I'll order some immediatly. Got a link? I tried a cooler master thermal paste, and AS-5. I like the performance of the AS-5 better.

when i had mine at 5.1ghz it was gettin up in the mid 80s quick with benchmarks being ran

Same with me.

Its gotta be. I read this this thread and have seen everything else tried and tested or rearranged. Like I said thats the ONE thing that sticks out.

I'm going to relap with 2000 grit when I get home.
 
I'll order some immediatly. Got a link? I tried a cooler master thermal paste, and AS-5. I like the performance of the AS-5 better.



Same with me.



I'm going to relap with 2000 grit when I get home.

Your lapping it on a completely flat surface right? Like maybe a mirror or piece of glass as a base. Not by hand
 
Shin Etsu - If you buy it boil some water then place the tube in a zip lock bag and place it in the water this will help it spread a lot better.

http://www.frys.com/product/6274400?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG

When you're lapping make sure to use something flat and thin to see if it is even. Use a flash light and shine the light at the base of whatever you're using and the heatsink. If it's uneven light will shine through and if it's even light won't shine through. A wooden ruler is a good example of what to use to see how even it is.

Waiitt.. Did you only sand it with 2000 grit? 2000 grit isn't going to make it even. The lower grits do all the work and the higher grits are for smoothness and finish once you've evened it and sanded it down.

This is what mine was like when I finished - I used 800 - 1000 - 1500 - 2000.

4855423354_75384cfea8_b.jpg
 
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Your lapping it on a completely flat surface right? Like maybe a mirror or piece of glass as a base. Not by hand

Not only that, but did you test this setup before lapping? If so, what were the temps? If you did not, this is one of the reasons you test before hand, so you know everything is working, and if you lap and get worse temps, then you know its your lap job.

Also, the suggestions of buying new paste, you might see a small impact on temps if you match a better TIM with your HSF and CPU setup, from my findings, the TIM suggested is not the best choice for lapped surfaces, AS5 tends to be better because its thinner. The rougher and less flat the mating surface is often times the better the thicker TIM's will perform, while on lapped surfaces the thinner ones (like AS5) do better.

Another point is that is a very high OC, and high temps should not be shocking, just because someone else has *this* temp with a given cooler/CPU does not mean you will get the same. Over all, I think it sounds like the H50 is getting overloaded, once you pass the point a cooler can shed off heat, it does not take much for the temps to skyrocket.
 
H50 ain't that amazing to start out with and im sure those temps aren't that shocking for high overclocks
 
Yeah, there are normal air coolers that easily beat the H50.

Personal favorite right now is the Noctua NH-D14, which performs better and is cheaper than the H50.
 
It's all over XS and the like. Sandy bridge does BETTER on air cooling than it will on phase, a chiller, and most of the time water. Stick to air for this one!
 
I'm running a 2500k and an H70 in push pull. For awhile, I was getting over 70 at 4.6 and was a bit concerned about my temperatures. I remounted a few times, when i discovered that I had configured my push pull fans in a push push arrangement. Might want to double check to make sure both fans are blowing in their intended direction. Since correcting the mistake, I top out about 60, with fairly conservative fan speeds.
 
Well, I was an "Early Adopter" for Sandy Bridge and wasn't quite sure what were "good" temps. I saw the 212+ temps start rolling in and thought I should do at least that well, but I wasn't really. I was close, but it seemed to me , that I should be equal or better. I have a 212+ in the closet that I almost installed, before I discovered the push-push fan config that someone broke in and set up while I was out, since I would never make such an error.

I have an Asus P8P67 Pro, pump plugged into the CPU header as the 3 pin fans cannot be controlled by Fan Xpert, on the CPU header, and the fans connected to cha_1 via a y cable, controlled with a manual profile. Make sure the pump is running at a constant speed of ~1400RPM or so. I have the fan control on the CPU header disabled, so it remains at full speed, regardless of temperature.

I"ve read that the corsairs are sensitive to mounts, though I was rather ham fisted in mine and it seems to be working ok.
 
It's all over XS and the like. Sandy bridge does BETTER on air cooling than it will on phase, a chiller, and most of the time water. Stick to air for this one!

I havent seen that anywhere on XS. I have consistently seen people running the same settings as me(Apogee XT/RX480) on air and getting 10-15 degree higher temps though under the same stress tests with higher end air coolers. Are you saying that higher temperatures are letting SBs overclock further?

Edit: Settings being ~5.0ghz/~1.425v
 
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Sandy has cold bug and there has actually been testing where overclock results were worse on cold than on air. Search around.
 
well, I've relapped for a mirror finish, and still getting crappy temps. I'm going to return my H50, and probly pick up either the RASA kit, or venemous X (recommendations are always appreciated)
 
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How are people's experiences with the RASA or the Venemous X kits? Are they that much of a jump from an H50?
 
I don't see how a cpu could perform worse under more powerful cooling solutions. TDP is TDP. Now if you're saying the new cpus are designed to run at warmer temperatures to achieve maximum performance that I can sort of understand but it seems like a silly design choice.
 
i had/have temp issues with my h70 as well.. at 5.0ghz on i7 2600k i hit 85C max temp after some time.. bios reports 53-54C at startup (room at 22.5 C or so).

I replaced my h70 with another, same issue.. plenty of rpms on the fans/pump.. pump running etc..

I'm replacing the cpu in a few days due to some recent issues, i'm hoping magically my temps will be different..

I'm using mx4 arctic silver as of now.. just the grain thin line down middle technique.
 
I have had great over clocking fun using H50 on i7-930.

I hook up the pump directly to a 4 pin power plug... Just need a connection adapter. That will give a solid power source for the pump.

I never lapped my H50. Worked great with Socket 775 Intel Q9550 as well.

There could be a problem with your MB as well. I have been watching the sandybridge scene from a distance and I like what I see but I have also read about quite a few major problems.

I hope you get things sorted out with your cooling problem. Sandybridge works great at lower speeds and voltages as well so if you can't get stable at 5ghz a lower speed still offers alot of performance.


I'm in the process of building a liquid loop for my rig... The H50 will be missed but I'm in search of better cooling. I think liquid cooling is a great choice for cooling. H50 is a great self contained liquid cooling heat sink IMO.
 
that isnt the way you should be running it. the pump should be plugged into any fan header and the fan should be in the cpu fan header. the pump needs to run at full speed all the time and if it is in the cpu fan header it might not.

Your right, i have my pump in a fan header and the fans on a fan controller so i can adjust to what i want. Im using the stock fan from the corsair 600T and with nothing running im at 35-38c. Maxed out i thik i get up too. 70s but its overclocked too 3.4. I can also sometimes hear air moving in the lines.. Iv had alot of issues setting the h50 before i got up to 90-95c....
 
when i read the title of this post I thought you meant TJ Max was gonna start selling enthusiast computer parts. Boy was I wrong
 
i have a 2500k (early adopt) on msi p67a-gd65 oc'ed to 4.5 on corsair a70 pretty much all at stock voltages - never gets above 70. 5ghz is pretty aggressive.
 
well, I've relapped for a mirror finish, and still getting crappy temps. I'm going to return my H50, and probly pick up either the RASA kit, or venemous X (recommendations are always appreciated)

If you're going to return a lapped H50, that's sort of a dick move. Just sayin'.
 
Ok i speed read the hole post real fast like and im not 100% shore if the OP tried this or not and or if some one has all ready recommended this but try and hardwireing your thing right in to the +12V from your psu.

Iv seen a feu mobos out their were that for whatever reason the mobo doesn't give a true +12v to fans so as to make fans less noisy {total BS imho} then just plug the sensor wire in to the mobo of corse so as to be able to keep track of rpm.
you'll see the rpm speed go up if the 12v~amps go up and more was needed as well you could all ways overclock your thingy {run 14v in it} :p

Just for fun if in doubt try it and see if it changes anything that is if you haven't all ready tried it all ready.
 
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