Enhanced Interrogator
[H]ard|Gawd
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2013
- Messages
- 1,428
Is it fine if I'm playing at 640x480p 60hz amd there's this white line appearing on the right side of it
Of course. Why don't you make the picture bigger so you can't see it?
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Is it fine if I'm playing at 640x480p 60hz amd there's this white line appearing on the right side of it
1) Switch to 100hz before you launch the gameAnyone know how to lock the gaming refresh rate to the desktops?
Thank you!1) Switch to 100hz before you launch the game
2) Use Nvidias "use max refresh rate" in 3D settings
3) Use another 3rd party program like RefreshLock
and if everything else fails:
4) Make a custom resolution of 1624x1218 @ 100hz and just use that
Some games are locked l, some games have configurable refresh rates etc as well.Thank you!
AMD's custom resolutions are stuck at 6bpc max so I tried CRU. AMD doesn't use EDID overrides created by CRU (or any other method affecting the registry) when the display is connected to an MST Hub. EDID overrides appear to be per display model and GPU port, so you need to copy the EDID override to each port that you connect the display to. While creating the EDID override in CRU, you may want to change the name of the display in the EDID override to include the name of the port it's connected to. The modified display name helps to indicate when the custom EDID is being used. For the case where the EDID override is not being used by AMD for a display connected to an MST Hub, the Windows software will show the new display name while the AMD software will not show the new display name. The AMD software will show the new display name when the display is not connected to an MST Hub.And have you tried using CRU? I find it more intuitive than AMD and Nvidia's tools, and it allows you to save profiles which is a big deal when updating drivers.
Greetings, I'd like to ask some basic questions. I can get IBM P275 but I would need a converter to be able to connect it to my GTX 1060(3x Display Port, 1x DVI-DP, 1x HDMI). I only care about 1600x1200@85Hz which is monitor native resolution, eventually 100Hz one if it's possible but it's not mandatory. I care about colors, pixel effects and mostly about input latency. But which converter to choose? I've noticed that all those "professional" converters(ie. Synaptics VMM2322 hardware) cost more than actual CRT. Do I need such expensive converter for my 1600x1200@85Hz(100Hz)?
I only care about 1600x1200@85Hz which is monitor native resolution,
(As to 1880 versus 1920, may be a bit silly, but I always advocate such slight tweaks to match a CRT's true aspect ratio.)
Thanks, I've seen this issue with other monitors. But I did not find if it was possible to fix them in the end.Damn that's really bad.
The problem is with "purity". If you google that, you will find a lot of information.
If you're lucky, only the yoke came loose. You're going to have to open it up and see if the yoke has shifted.
Magnets popping off is another possibility, you can look inside to see if any fell off.
If you're unlucky, the aperture grille inside the tube is loose, and you'll have to find another tube. Though the rest of the electronics inside should still be working fine
these are images of the same monitor, just IMG_8369 (1) taken in the evening, and the other two in a sunny morning with a different refresh rate(the monitor was also turned on its side and upside down)Well, the last image looks a lot better. Looks like you had some degree of luck with the landing adjustments.
It wasn't as bad as your FW900, but an F520 arrived to me with an error outside of the range of the landing controls to compensate. I addressed it, at least temporarily, by positioning some magnets on my desk.
I suppose it goes without saying that you've moved any speakers or other inadvertent sources of magnetism well away from the display.
Thank you. I removed the magnets. set only for the experiment.Well, if you keep the tube close to a magnet powerful enough, it may remain magnetized and that could explain your issue indeed. There aren't many ways to fix this, either wait, repeatedly apply the internal degauss function and see if that improves, if it does but that doesn't seem to be enough to entirely fix the issue, bring it to a professionnal to use an external degausser.
Putting more magnets in the game isn't exactly a good way to deal with this IMO.
Thank you. I removed the magnets. set only for the experiment.
I'm waiting for a master with an external demagnetizer
Thank you. On a light background, it dispenses terribly. My BVM A14F5M has one such line, but it is only visible at resolutions higher than 480p.Yeah that is part of the tube, all trinitrons have those thin cables in the screen.
THAT is rough ...Back in the day, I demagnetized a CRT by duct-taping 2 magnets to the chuck on my drill, pulling the trigger, and waving it around the screen.
THAT is rough ...
Probably not recommended with a delicate CRT like trinitrons.