Seems like so. Then it would be a time for a small straight grinder tool with a cutoff disk.You won't be able to swap anything, well, not unless you destroy the VGA plug. It is molded, it can't be dismantled.
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Seems like so. Then it would be a time for a small straight grinder tool with a cutoff disk.You won't be able to swap anything, well, not unless you destroy the VGA plug. It is molded, it can't be dismantled.
Looks beautiful! Viewsonic made some of the best monitors back in the day. I was sad when Viewsonic and Sony stopped making decent monitors a while back. I thought they would continue their trend with LCD.I recently got my hands on a ViewSonic G90f, having arguably the best specs of any 18" viewable screen CRT.
It even came with the original manuals, driver CDs, and whatnot. Folks, this monitor is in scary good condition:....
With that, I'm curious about some of the practices you guys do in order to maintain your CRTs and keep them as pristine as possible (or reasonable). My Hitachi SuperScan Elite 751 was in aesthetically awful condition when I got it and still is, despite textbook screen performance. So, I'm somewhat new to all around CRT maintenance.
Are there any particular practices or tricks I should keep in mind?
So, what would the advantage of hardware calibration via whatever tweaks are needed plus WinDas be over just using straight software like Displaycal?Service manual is here. Looks like adjusting voltages isn't straightforward - didn't see anything about a service menu, so not sure how you can do a proper hardware calibration without some knowledge of electronics. That said, you can still get some traction with the OSD and some software calibration.
So, what would the advantage of hardware calibration via whatever tweaks are needed plus WinDas be over just using straight software like Displaycal?
Also, would the "video level" from the service manual be relevant?
"Allows you to change the video input signal level to match the signal coming from your computer. Press down or up to select 0.7V or 1.0V."
Only two selections- but would they be useful at all?
There are methods to adding USB-C. For a device with a non-detachable USB-C male cable like the plugable USBC-VGA, you need a method that adds a female port such as the Sunix UPD2018 PCIe card (or Thunderbolt 3 add-in card) or a Wacom Link Plus.After reading this post, it seems the pluggable type c to vga adapter would be a decent option.
I must not have been clear- my Dell XPS 9560 has a USB-C/Thunderbolt output. But, I'd rather use its HDMI output if I can, since I'm currently using Thunderbolt for throughput-demanding devices.There are methods to adding USB-C. For a device with a non-detachable USB-C male cable like the plugable USBC-VGA, you need a method that adds a female port such as the Sunix UPD2018 PCIe card (or Thunderbolt 3 add-in card) or a Wacom Link Plus.
https://egpu.io/forums/gpu-monitor-...sb-c-to-displayport-cable/paged/4/#post-79127
Yes of course you want to use the existing display output port of your laptop (HDMI) if you can - it will be less expensive and saves the multipurpose USB-C/Thunderbolt ports for other purposes.I must not have been clear- my Dell XPS 9560 has a USB-C/Thunderbolt output. But, I'd rather use its HDMI output if I can, since I'm currently using Thunderbolt for throughput-demanding devices.
That said, I'll go the USB-C route if it's the only way I can get 8 bit color at 230MHz.
search for words "Benfei" and "Rankie" in this thread.Any of you know an HDMI to female VGA adapter that works well?
Dang, so in order to use the only other verified-working HDMI to VGA adapters, I have to set the output to YCBCR? That's annoying.search for words "Benfei" and "Rankie" in this thread.
Dang, so in order to use the only other verified-working HDMI to VGA adapters, I have to set the output to YCBCR? That's annoying.
I'm more and more thinking I might try to save up for a GTX 980 Ti external gpu rig sooner.
Cause the 980 Ti is good on a sub 200 dollar budget and a big upgrade over my laptop's GTX 1050.980Ti is getting long in the tooth, it's way weaker than the PS5 and Xbox SX GPU's.
Why not get a Sunix DPU3000 or Delock/ICE's version?
Well, it's more so annoying that the only verified-working HDMI adapters require an atypical output. Needlessly tedious and not a workaround inherently required for HDMI to VGA conversion. I'd rather find a high bandwidth adapter that's plug and play.if you find setting the output to YCBCR of those hdmi to vga so annoying, you surely wont have the patience to deal with the issues from Sunix DPU3000 or Delock/ICE' versions (for more info about those issues, search them in this thread)
i have a dpu3000 with fw900 and gtx 1080 ti, i had to have some patience and learn to configure custom resolution refresh rate combos to work prorperly with it, and was worth it. as today, i am happy with it and dont miss anything from my 980 ti (rip) at all. well, thats just me.
I'd rather find a high bandwidth adapter that's plug and play.
I notice in CRU that under the timing methods there is the default 'manual choice', Automatic - CRT standard and Automatic - Old standard.
Given my 2060u, which timing mode should I use?
Windows automatically selected 1600x1200 at 85hz when I plugged in the monitor through the DPU-3000 without CRU being involved.
It also seems that my 2060u has an option to perform a 'standard picture auto size adjust' and a separate option for 'GTF auto size adjust'. This tells me that the monitor is capable of reading the more modern VGA sync standard and the old GTF standard.
Manual mode on CRU produces the following settings:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Uwjxpz5VkLiYS54u8
CRT automatic mode produces the following settings:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/h2W6QXPASHGn6HHV8
Automatic Old standard produces the following settings:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/K74dxUgsZAyfmrFX9
My questions are:
a) Which timing mode should I use?
b) When should the automatic - old standard be used instead of the automatic - CRT standard? What are the disadvantages of using the 'old standard' on a CRT monitor that supports the more modern standard?
c) What advantages do I get in day-to-day use of the CRT monitor specifying 1600x1200 at 85hz through CRU using the 'Automatic - CRT standard' instead of simply specifying 1600x1200 at 85hz through the Windows 10 control panel?
d) How is CRU written to prove that the mathematical formula for the 'automatic CRT' calculation delivers the best results for CRTs?
I would imagine my monitor is telling my PC what the best options are for it without needing to use the CRT option? It is fully communicating its EDID and Windows knows its product name.
If the greenish color is there regardless of the brightness level, it's an issue somewhere on the R, G, or B line from the input plug to the KR, KG, or KB on the tube's socket. It can be something increasing the G signal or something else decreasing the R/B signals.
CRU CRT standard is VESA CVT and Old standard is VESA GTF, with manual nothing is calculated, it only serves if you want to manually change some timings.
CRU uses those formulas which are standard VESA, you can use whatever you want, both are fine.
If you set 1600x1200 85 Hz on Windows panel without any custom resolution setting, the driver uses DMT with timings different from both CVT and GTF because this resolution is on the DMT VESA list with those custom timings.
Sometimes the resolutions present in the windows panel are wrong for CRT monitors.
The perfect example is the 1920x1080 60 Hz, if you see this resolution in Windows and you haven't set it custom, if you set it the image will be very bad.
This because that resolution is on the DMT VESA list, so the video driver uses those timings which are CVT Reduced and not compatible with CRT monitors.
If a resolution in Windows panel isn't on DMT list the video driver uses GTF timings with a CRT monitor.
Most all CRT monitor are GTF compliant, which means that if you set a resolution with GTF timings the monitor will show an almost good image and you will only have to make small corrections with the monitor geometry settings (this in theory)
Some information about VESA timings:
https://hardforum.com/threads/24-wi...-ebay-arrived-comments.952788/post-1043533036
https://hardforum.com/threads/24-wi...-ebay-arrived-comments.952788/post-1043924287
"If you set 1600x1200 85 Hz on Windows panel without any custom resolution setting, the driver uses DMT with timings different from both CVT and GTF because this resolution is on the DMT VESA list with those custom timings."
I've spent too much time watching Joe Rogan....can you explain in more basic English what exactly the 'DMT VESA list' is? Is it a list written by Microsoft into Windows 10 with default custom timings that are unchanged regardless of what the monitor's EDID communicates to Windows?
Many of the old VESA specs are free"If you set 1600x1200 85 Hz on Windows panel without any custom resolution setting, the driver uses DMT with timings different from both CVT and GTF because this resolution is on the DMT VESA list with those custom timings."
I've spent too much time watching Joe Rogan....can you explain in more basic English what exactly the 'DMT VESA list' is? Is it a list written by Microsoft into Windows 10 with default custom timings that are unchanged regardless of what the monitor's EDID communicates to Windows?
Im getting a problem with my DP2070SB, every few hours the screen will start to fluctuate down in brightness, when this happens knocking the side of the monitor does seem to help, it will often fix it for second or few minutes, and after a while it seems to fix it itself. Hitting a CRT to get the picture back seems to be a cliched thing, im wondering if this is a common sign of something?
On one hand it seems like it could be minor, like a loose connector, but on the other hand it seems unlikely for a simple mechanical issue to come and go out of nowhere.
Dang, I hope it can get fixed!Hi everyone. I've been fortunate enough to use a really nice FW900 for quite some time. However, sometime last year it started having problems: at first, it refused to turn on unless I retried the power button multiple times. It would sound like it's turning on properly, but there would be no visible screen and the indicator would blink. I'd hear the "click" sound a bunch of times. However, turning it off and then back on again about 2-3 times would ultimately cause it to switch on correctly and work properly.
Finally, one day I tried going through this routine to turn it on, and was met with a white flash of light and after that it was finally dead.
It feels to me like maybe the capacitors have died? I don't really know much about it technically, though. It's just been sitting at my desk collecting dust. I sincerely doubt I'd be able to resolve this myself. I'm just wondering, is it anywhere near plausible to find someone who could repair this, or am I probably out of luck due to how nobody really has CRTs anymore? I'm in Rotterdam, in case anyone happens to be close by and would be interested in being commissioned to repair this
Thank you!
edit: gonna make a video of its current state tonight.
Here's the video:
I made a video of what's happening. It's actually a little bit different from what I remember happening back when it broke, I seem to recall it was just a flash of light and then nothing. Today when I try to switch it on, it hisses at me and constantly tries to re-initialize/degauss the screen.
Here's the video:
If anyone has any ideas following the video, or wants me to try something (not like it does anything else, though...), I'd appreciate it!
Also, thanks for the link to the service manual. I'll have a look at it. I'm also gonna call around for some repair shops, maybe I'll get lucky and find someone with experience and willingness to repair a CRT.
Yes, it looks like the screen is trying to degauss and fails on your video, the little "sparks" in the screen match every attempt, and I don't think these are normal behaviour.I made a video of what's happening. It's actually a little bit different from what I remember happening back when it broke, I seem to recall it was just a flash of light and then nothing. Today when I try to switch it on, it hisses at me and constantly tries to re-initialize/degauss the screen.
Hello everyone, my FW900 is greenish, and the OSD menu color is normal. I have seen many people's sony FW900s that seem to have the same problem. This seems to be a common problem.
Does anyone know how to solve this problem? Is it because of capacitor failure? Can replace the capacitor to solve the problem?
Check out this post:So I decided to my GDM-FW900 out since I now have space for it, but my GPU (GTX 1060 3GB) does not have DVI-I or VGA. I tried a VGA to HDMI cable I had, but it nothing displayed in the screen. So what is the best way to use this monitor these days? My motherboard does have USB 3.1 gen 2 which should have enough bandwidth for 2304 x 1440 at say 100hz. I'm presuming that is the only way to go since gen 1 doesn't have enough bandwidth, the GPU also has DP And DVI-D.
So I decided to my GDM-FW900 out since I now have space for it, but my GPU (GTX 1060 3GB) does not have DVI-I or VGA. I tried a VGA to HDMI cable I had, but it nothing displayed in the screen. So what is the best way to use this monitor these days? My motherboard does have USB 3.1 gen 2 which should have enough bandwidth for 2304 x 1440 at say 100hz. I'm presuming that is the only way to go since gen 1 doesn't have enough bandwidth, the GPU also has DP And DVI-D.