24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

My FW900 started normally, but the menu flickered. Soon afterwards, it turned on again and found that the screen did not display after startup, but windas detected that everything was normal, can anyone help me. Test G2 (89V) voltage KB (55V) KG (55V) KR (49V) voltage is very low, because my mother tongue is not English, I am using Google Translate

 
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My FW900 started normally, but the menu flickered. Soon afterwards, it turned on again and found that the screen did not display after startup, but windas detected that everything was normal, can anyone help me. Test G2 (89V) voltage KB (55V) KG (55V) KR (49V) voltage is very low, because my mother tongue is not English, I am using Google Translate


It can't boot now, but das detects everything is normal
 
The very first step of Adjustment menu -> Procedure in Windas allows to check the logs of the monitor for some generic failures. Did you try that ? It might give a clue about your problem.

It's hard to say about KR, KG, KB if you measured that with a multimeter in DC mode (these are AC signals), but the G2 voltage is DC and should be around 500V, that one is indeed worrying.

First you should check if the 220V line is still up. If it is, then the culprit is likely to be on the D board in these areas, 1 first, then 2:

001.jpg

Check for bad solders first, it's not necessarily a component failure. The very first ones I would check: R917, C904
 
Hey I encountered a weird thing with the Sunnix DPU 3000. I just tried to plug a new 2m long dp to mini dp cable from my GFX card to it and it didn't work, no light or sound but if I plug in the supplied 10cm long DP to mini DP patch cable it works fine. Is there some sort of a chip or different wiring pattern in the patch cable Sunnix uses or something? Can anyone else replicate my experience?
 
Hey I encountered a weird thing with the Sunnix DPU 3000. I just tried to plug a new 2m long dp to mini dp cable from my GFX card to it and it didn't work, no light or sound but if I plug in the supplied 10cm long DP to mini DP patch cable it works fine. Is there some sort of a chip or different wiring pattern in the patch cable Sunnix uses or something? Can anyone else replicate my experience?

Are you using the micro-USB port for power as well?
 
The very first step of Adjustment menu -> Procedure in Windas allows to check the logs of the monitor for some generic failures. Did you try that ? It might give a clue about your problem.

It's hard to say about KR, KG, KB if you measured that with a multimeter in DC mode (these are AC signals), but the G2 voltage is DC and should be around 500V, that one is indeed worrying.

First you should check if the 220V line is still up. If it is, then the culprit is likely to be on the D board in these areas, 1 first, then 2:

View attachment 238277

Check for bad solders first, it's not necessarily a component failure. The very first ones I would check: R917, C904
Yes ,Solders seems to work fine,My D board seems to be normal. Is there a problem with the A board?
 
Who can help me, my Fw900 seems to have a problem, statement: Since English is not my mother tongue, I use google translation
Problem Description:
1. This is a second-hand FW900. When it was first received, it could be turned on normally, but there was a convergence problem. Figure 1
IMG_1898.JPG

2. It was later discovered that the menu could not be displayed on the screen. The buttons on the front panel were effective, such as the brightness increase button and the contrast increase button, but the screen could not display the menu correctly. (Sometimes it shows up again, then disappears again)

3. After many times of use, I found that the Fw900 screen could not light up normally after booting again. The screen was black, but the boot screen could be heard with a click and the filament at the rear was lit normally. Enter DAS-Adjustment-Failure, there is no error message, it shows everything is normal ...
FullSizeRender 5.jpg

I tested the G2 voltage at the tail. At this time, the voltage value is about 90V. I know this is abnormal, but I do n’t know what is the problem?
 
The very first step of Adjustment menu -> Procedure in Windas allows to check the logs of the monitor for some generic failures. Did you try that ? It might give a clue about your problem.

It's hard to say about KR, KG, KB if you measured that with a multimeter in DC mode (these are AC signals), but the G2 voltage is DC and should be around 500V, that one is indeed worrying.

First you should check if the 220V line is still up. If it is, then the culprit is likely to be on the D board in these areas, 1 first, then 2:

View attachment 238277

Check for bad solders first, it's not necessarily a component failure. The very first ones I would check: R917, C904
I re-described the problem
 
https://www.cablechick.com.au/blog/the-displayport-pin-20-issue-explained/

I need a 2m long - 20 pin displayport cable to provide power.

WOOP WOOP did it, I had to try 2 different micro B usb cables. The first one 1 tried didn't have a deep enough connector for the Sunnix power connector. I'm now running with a 2m long 19 pin dp to mini dp cable and a mobile phone charger micro b cable providing power instead of the pin 20 missing on everything but the Sunnix patch lead. I also read some modern video cards don't even have the 20 pin connected in the DP port these days. Why am I doing this; well boys and girls, stay tuned.

More interestingly; the Sunnix image is now way brighter on my monitor, now that I've given the adaptor dedicated power...interesting....
 
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Who can help me, my Fw900 seems to have a problem, statement: Since English is not my mother tongue, I use google translation
Problem Description:
1. This is a second-hand FW900. When it was first received, it could be turned on normally, but there was a convergence problem. Figure 1
View attachment 238399
2. It was later discovered that the menu could not be displayed on the screen. The buttons on the front panel were effective, such as the brightness increase button and the contrast increase button, but the screen could not display the menu correctly. (Sometimes it shows up again, then disappears again)

3. After many times of use, I found that the Fw900 screen could not light up normally after booting again. The screen was black, but the boot screen could be heard with a click and the filament at the rear was lit normally. Enter DAS-Adjustment-Failure, there is no error message, it shows everything is normal ...
View attachment 238400
I tested the G2 voltage at the tail. At this time, the voltage value is about 90V. I know this is abnormal, but I do n’t know what is the problem?

One thing at a time. First the G2 issue, that's the real severe one. There' no H pulse error so I suppose you can assume area 2 is working. Now:
- Did you check the 220V power line is still supplying the right voltage ? (usually when troubleshooting electronics that's the very first step: making sure all power supply lines are OK)
- Did you check the R917 fuse resistor is still good ?
 
One thing at a time. First the G2 issue, that's the real severe one. There' no H pulse error so I suppose you can assume area 2 is working. Now:
- Did you check the 220V power line is still supplying the right voltage ? (usually when troubleshooting electronics that's the very first step: making sure all power supply lines are OK)
- Did you check the R917 fuse resistor is still good ?

Yes, I first checked the 220V voltage, 80V voltage and + 15V-15V voltage, etc., only 80v voltage (actually 78V), others are normal.
IMG_1831.JPG


In addition, I checked the resistance of R917 is 228 (pictured)

IMG_2885.JPG
 

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No need to bother taking pictures, I believe you. ;)
R917 is within tolerance, nothing wrong.
78V on the 80V line is a normal value. What about the 12V, heater, 1W 5V, standby 5V lines ?

IF you have access to measurement means able to support voltages above 1.5kV, and in that case only (for instance, a professional multimeter or an oscilloscope with high voltage/100X probes), try to measure the G2 voltage leaving the D board (next to CN506 on D board, or next to CN406 on A board). That'll give an answer more quickly.
Otherwise, check D922, D908, D925, D911 are still behaving like diodes; check C919, C904 aren't shorted or behaving like a resistance.
 
No need to bother taking pictures, I believe you. ;)
R917 is within tolerance, nothing wrong.
78V on the 80V line is a normal value. What about the 12V, heater, 1W 5V, standby 5V lines ?

IF you have access to measurement means able to support voltages above 1.5kV, and in that case only (for instance, a professional multimeter or an oscilloscope with high voltage/100X probes), try to measure the G2 voltage leaving the D board (next to CN506 on D board, or next to CN406 on A board). That'll give an answer more quickly.
Otherwise, check D922, D908, D925, D911 are still behaving like diodes; check C919, C904 aren't shorted or behaving like a resistance.
No need to bother taking pictures, I believe you. ;)
R917 is within tolerance, nothing wrong.
78V on the 80V line is a normal value. What about the 12V, heater, 1W 5V, standby 5V lines ?

IF you have access to measurement means able to support voltages above 1.5kV, and in that case only (for instance, a professional multimeter or an oscilloscope with high voltage/100X probes), try to measure the G2 voltage leaving the D board (next to CN506 on D board, or next to CN406 on A board). That'll give an answer more quickly.
Otherwise, check D922, D908, D925, D911 are still behaving like diodes; check C919, C904 aren't shorted or behaving like a resistance.
Thank you very much for your support all the way. I am just a hobbyist. I am not familiar with CRT circuits. I ca n’t find a repair staff nearby.
Yes, my multimeter only supports 1000V measurement. I tested the G2 voltage on the A board (Figure 1). When I tested the voltage here, it indicated that the maximum range was exceeded. This may indicate that the problem is not on the D board. If the problem is on the A board, where might the problem be?

IMG_2465.JPG
 
Thank you very much for your support all the way. I am just a hobbyist. I am not familiar with CRT circuits. I ca n’t find a repair staff nearby.
Yes, my multimeter only supports 1000V measurement. I tested the G2 voltage on the A board (Figure 1). When I tested the voltage here, it indicated that the maximum range was exceeded. This may indicate that the problem is not on the D board. If the problem is on the A board, where might the problem be?
Well, If I wrote in BOLT to perform that measurement only if you had a measurement tool supporting voltages above 1.5 kV, that's because it was dangerous otherwise. Consider yourself lucky, you could have fried your multimeter, or ever hurt yourself. Being struck with a 1.5kV DC discharge isn't exactly like touching the poles of a 9V battery ... Keep safety in mind.

That said, you can indeed probably assume the G2 voltage input to the A board is OK (though you can't be absolutely certain of it). Then, I would see 4 possibilities to investigate:
1°) Something wrong directly on the path to the neck of the tube (check R418 and R458 still have the intended value, and C417, SG402 aren't shorted or behaving like a resistor) -> Green area. That would be the most likely given the low voltage you get (and the most convenient to fix)
2°) Something wrong with the 5V or 12V line (Blue)
3°) Something wrong in the G2 regulation circuitry (Red area) but that becomes a bit harder. You can start checking diodes and resistors keeping in mind some measurements can be done in circuit and some others will be total nonsense. Pulling the component off circuit will be then required for a proper measurement. Check the capacitors aren't shorted to the ground or behaving like a resistor. If something else has an issue (like the integrated circuit for example), that's much harder to test.
4°) Something wrong with the PWM signal output by IC404 (Pink). But then, it's a bit of a black box in that case, I don't know if it's possible to easily find if it's the integrated circuit's fault, or any other circuit on the N board.


002.jpg

By the way, what the hell is soldered on pins 15 to 17 of IC406, potentiometers between them and the ground ??? Did you do that ?
 
Hi Guys, I just did this video about my investigations into getting the best signal from the Sunnix DPU3000 to my 2060u. It has vastly improved my display quality.
That's interesting. I wonder what did exactly improve the display, the fact you're connecting it right next to the VGA input, the USB cable you're using as power supply or a bit of both.

Have you made tests to find out that ?
 
Hi Guys, I just did this video about my investigations into getting the best signal from the Sunnix DPU3000 to my 2060u. It has vastly improved my display quality.



interesting, in my system all the cables attached to the sunix are 1 meter long at least (original monitor vga cable, power cable, DP cable) as seen in the below photo, and the monitor picture quality is the same as it is from the native analog ports i have used from other vga cards with no signs of signal degradations, waves, lower luminace, blurry text, etc, however it would be interesting to try with my sunix and fw900 later when i am able to get that vga to vga tini adapter like the one you used , however it seems to require to retire the fw900 big plastic box that cover the internals of the monitor for the sunix to fit from what it seems though.

reduced.jpg



No. You're probably paying more attention and are more aware now. They've been garbage for me since day one.

the more i have been using the sunix everyday the more i realize it is really a good great usefull adapter, just can be tricky to find the proper way to setup a resolution / refresh rate / adapter power wiring quality/ (graphics card?) combo for it to work without issues.

as i reported here about a year ago when i receibed the sunix, i had all the issues reported by others day one as well, but now i have not had one single issues for about a month of daily use with it with a nvidia gtx 1080 ti graphics card,



one thing i am doing different from that old early test , is to use resolutions/referesh rate combos that are not listed in the custom resolution utility (CRU), i use for example 1920x1200@60hz as my desktop resolution, and 1920x1200@90hz to use for some modern gaming, i create those with the nvidia custom GFT standard, but i check in CRU to ensure those resolution/refresh rate combos are NOT listed in the CRU software, it only list 1920x1200@85hz

the same applies for all other resolution/combos i use. 2048x1536 60hz is the one resolution i use that takes longer to switch and monitor display a "no signal input" for half a second but finally gets switched to with no issues, i also did a test for an entire day and used this resolution all day with no single issue at all.

when i did my early old tests, i used CRU for almost everything and for example had the 1920x1200@90hz displaying the last bottom line of the screen on the top of the screen issue that appeared at a maximum of half and hour of using that res/refres combo on a game, now after days and intensive gaming hours at that res/refres combo created the way i mentioned i have not had that issue again.
 
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Well, If I wrote in BOLT to perform that measurement only if you had a measurement tool supporting voltages above 1.5 kV, that's because it was dangerous otherwise. Consider yourself lucky, you could have fried your multimeter, or ever hurt yourself. Being struck with a 1.5kV DC discharge isn't exactly like touching the poles of a 9V battery ... Keep safety in mind.

That said, you can indeed probably assume the G2 voltage input to the A board is OK (though you can't be absolutely certain of it). Then, I would see 4 possibilities to investigate:
1°) Something wrong directly on the path to the neck of the tube (check R418 and R458 still have the intended value, and C417, SG402 aren't shorted or behaving like a resistor) -> Green area. That would be the most likely given the low voltage you get (and the most convenient to fix)
2°) Something wrong with the 5V or 12V line (Blue)
3°) Something wrong in the G2 regulation circuitry (Red area) but that becomes a bit harder. You can start checking diodes and resistors keeping in mind some measurements can be done in circuit and some others will be total nonsense. Pulling the component off circuit will be then required for a proper measurement. Check the capacitors aren't shorted to the ground or behaving like a resistor. If something else has an issue (like the integrated circuit for example), that's much harder to test.
4°) Something wrong with the PWM signal output by IC404 (Pink). But then, it's a bit of a black box in that case, I don't know if it's possible to easily find if it's the integrated circuit's fault, or any other circuit on the N board.


View attachment 238667

By the way, what the hell is soldered on pins 15 to 17 of IC406, potentiometers between them and the ground ??? Did you do that ?
No, it was n’t me. I originally had an adjustable potentiometer soldered to the R457 pin. This caused the R463 resistor to be removed. As far as I know, this potentiometer is used to adjust the G2 voltage. The potentiometer soldered on IC406 is used to adjust the color. Obviously this is an expert, but he does not know how to use WINDAS
 

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Could somebody please help me out?

I have a malfunctioning FW900 and I'm trying to figure out what the problem is and hopefully fix it.

I took a video of what it does when I try to turn it on:



Sometimes it won't display anything and the yellow light will immediately start flashing.

I've been able to get it to work in the past but this is happening more and more frequently so I'd like to get it fixed once and for all.

I have a second FW900 that isn't working that I've kept for parts or hopefully to fix up at some point. As long as the same thing isn't wrong with both of them I could maybe fix it up myself but I first have to know what is happening.

Any ideas?
 
Well, If I wrote in BOLT to perform that measurement only if you had a measurement tool supporting voltages above 1.5 kV, that's because it was dangerous otherwise. Consider yourself lucky, you could have fried your multimeter, or ever hurt yourself. Being struck with a 1.5kV DC discharge isn't exactly like touching the poles of a 9V battery ... Keep safety in mind.

That said, you can indeed probably assume the G2 voltage input to the A board is OK (though you can't be absolutely certain of it). Then, I would see 4 possibilities to investigate:
1°) Something wrong directly on the path to the neck of the tube (check R418 and R458 still have the intended value, and C417, SG402 aren't shorted or behaving like a resistor) -> Green area. That would be the most likely given the low voltage you get (and the most convenient to fix)
2°) Something wrong with the 5V or 12V line (Blue)
3°) Something wrong in the G2 regulation circuitry (Red area) but that becomes a bit harder. You can start checking diodes and resistors keeping in mind some measurements can be done in circuit and some others will be total nonsense. Pulling the component off circuit will be then required for a proper measurement. Check the capacitors aren't shorted to the ground or behaving like a resistor. If something else has an issue (like the integrated circuit for example), that's much harder to test.
4°) Something wrong with the PWM signal output by IC404 (Pink). But then, it's a bit of a black box in that case, I don't know if it's possible to easily find if it's the integrated circuit's fault, or any other circuit on the N board.


View attachment 238667

By the way, what the hell is soldered on pins 15 to 17 of IC406, potentiometers between them and the ground ??? Did you do that ?
I carefully checked the green area and found no abnormalities. Today I changed the IC404 chip (IC404 of Sony G500), but the problem still exists. Perhaps the problem really comes from the N board. The circuit of the N board is more complicated, which makes me very confused ...
 

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Could somebody please help me out?

I have a malfunctioning FW900 and I'm trying to figure out what the problem is and hopefully fix it.

I took a video of what it does when I try to turn it on:



Sometimes it won't display anything and the yellow light will immediately start flashing.

I've been able to get it to work in the past but this is happening more and more frequently so I'd like to get it fixed once and for all.

I have a second FW900 that isn't working that I've kept for parts or hopefully to fix up at some point. As long as the same thing isn't wrong with both of them I could maybe fix it up myself but I first have to know what is happening.

Any ideas?

You can try to enter Windas -Adjustment-Failure to view the error log tips, which may be helpful to you. In addition, the interval of flashing orange light has an error code
 

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Could somebody please help me out?

I have a malfunctioning FW900 and I'm trying to figure out what the problem is and hopefully fix it.

I took a video of what it does when I try to turn it on:



Sometimes it won't display anything and the yellow light will immediately start flashing.

I've been able to get it to work in the past but this is happening more and more frequently so I'd like to get it fixed once and for all.

I have a second FW900 that isn't working that I've kept for parts or hopefully to fix up at some point. As long as the same thing isn't wrong with both of them I could maybe fix it up myself but I first have to know what is happening.

Any ideas?

My Fw900 also encountered a problem and can't light the screen now ... I don't have a bad Fw900 as a part. Congratulations, Fw900 has a modular design. If the problem cannot be found, you can try to replace the module to troubleshoot the problem ... For example, directly replace the D board or A board (I am not professional enough, as a suggestion for your reference)
 
No, it was n’t me. I originally had an adjustable potentiometer soldered to the R457 pin. This caused the R463 resistor to be removed. As far as I know, this potentiometer is used to adjust the G2 voltage. The potentiometer soldered on IC406 is used to adjust the color. Obviously this is an expert, but he does not know how to use WINDAS
An EXPERT ? The guy who put these potentiometers there is one of the most RETARDED people you'll probably ever meet. You know what this is ? A totally RANDOM modification on a circuit the guy obviously had NOT A SINGLE CLUE ABOUT. :facepalm: :banghead:
I bet this is the reason of your failure. Did you check the 12V line ?
I carefully checked the green area and found no abnormalities. Today I changed the IC404 chip (IC404 of Sony G500), but the problem still exists. Perhaps the problem really comes from the N board. The circuit of the N board is more complicated, which makes me very confused ...
You ... WHAT ? :wtf:
And what did you expect ? Magically fixing a problem you're not sure about with a random component swap ? You know, if you don't learn a bit of patience and think a little before acting you're not going to fix anything and you're just going to cause more damage.
ICs are delicate components that do not like being soldered over and over; you'd better having a VERY good reason before touching one, and that means TESTING everything and ruling out EVERY OTHER POSSIBILITY before even thinking of removing it.
 
My Fw900 also encountered a problem and can't light the screen now ... I don't have a bad Fw900 as a part. Congratulations, Fw900 has a modular design. If the problem cannot be found, you can try to replace the module to troubleshoot the problem ... For example, directly replace the D board or A board (I am not professional enough, as a suggestion for your reference)
... And if you're not lucky the board you're replacing had a secondary problem caused by another issue somewhere else and you'll just end up frying another board without fixing anything.

The key is to observe and understand what's happening. If that's something you're not able to do, better don't touch anything.
 
Sometimes it won't display anything and the yellow light will immediately start flashing.

I've been able to get it to work in the past but this is happening more and more frequently so I'd like to get it fixed once and for all.

I have a second FW900 that isn't working that I've kept for parts or hopefully to fix up at some point. As long as the same thing isn't wrong with both of them I could maybe fix it up myself but I first have to know what is happening.

Any ideas?
I'm not sure at all but the way the display fades out like a rainbow in the middle of the screen after flashing colors is really weird, it might be a problem internal to the tube itself.
 
... And if you're not lucky the board you're replacing had a secondary problem caused by another issue somewhere else and you'll just end up frying another board without fixing anything.

The key is to observe and understand what's happening. If that's something you're not able to do, better don't touch anything.
Yes, I am a little impatient. :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :(
Yes, I checked the 12v cable and 5V cable, it seems that the problem is not here, I thought the problem is these added potentiometers, so I deleted all the added potentiometers, and added the removed 100K resistor, but this did not Solve the problem ...
I tried to replace the IC404 chip
I need to learn to be a little patient(n)(n)(n)(n)

Thanks again
 

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Well, I misread your picture. The potentiometers were actually on pins 15 to 13, not 15 to 17, I now see that on the new one. That makes some sense even though it's still a very questionnable modification, you should have noticed my mistake before removing anything. On pin 15 to 17, that would have probably fried the 12V line, on 13 to 15 it's not as obviously harmful.

Now, if you made the simple component checks I told you to do (resistance, capacitors, diodes), and you didn't find anything wrong, that issue is probably too complicated to diagnose without an oscilloscope, I'm afraid I can't help much more.
 
Thank you, I suspect that the problem may come from board A or board N, I may also have been unable to continue to check, fortunately, I found A CRT enthusiasts on the Internet, the monitor enthusiasts claimed to help me repair, need me to remove board A or board N to mail. I'm going to try...
Well, it's your call. Personally I wouldn't trust anyone to troubleshoot a single board without the entire monitor, especially someone I can't meet in person.
 
Is there any good alternative CRT 24"? Can't find any FW900 for years at a descent price, damn flippers asking around 1k for this which is to me ridiculous. I mean its a good tech but that's too much
 
Could somebody please help me out?

I have a malfunctioning FW900 and I'm trying to figure out what the problem is and hopefully fix it.

I took a video of what it does when I try to turn it on:



Sometimes it won't display anything and the yellow light will immediately start flashing.

I've been able to get it to work in the past but this is happening more and more frequently so I'd like to get it fixed once and for all.

I have a second FW900 that isn't working that I've kept for parts or hopefully to fix up at some point. As long as the same thing isn't wrong with both of them I could maybe fix it up myself but I first have to know what is happening.

Any ideas?


I had a similar problem with mine, I posted a video of it in an earlier post.

I think it’s an auto brightness limiter fail safe when the CRT starts up. For some reason the monitor gets too bright on initial boot.

What I still have to do to get it working is switch the source switch on the front of the monitor as soon as the screen goes really bright. Do this just before it’s going to switch itself off. Make sure there is no active source on the one you switch to. The monitor should go off with no signal eventually. Then flick back to the active source and keep repeating until it doesn’t get super bright anymore.

its a pain I know but works for me. I would like to get this fixed also!
 
Is there any good alternative CRT 24"? Can't find any FW900 for years at a descent price, damn flippers asking around 1k for this which is to me ridiculous. I mean its a good tech but that's too much
There are none except for rebrands which are just as pricey. Hence the price. A great alternative in my opinion would be a 21" CRT. The ones like Sony F520, G520, G500, F500 or rebrands by Dell are excellent. There are also 21" models by other brands like Mitsubishi. The only thing they lack (at least the Sony models) in comparision to FW900 is widescreen and sharpness (not F520 and F500), but they have better screen coating. And some of them higher refresh rates. And they cost just a fraction of the price. You can play 16:9 or 16:10 letterboxed on them if you need to.
 
There are none except for rebrands which are just as pricey. Hence the price. A great alternative in my opinion would be a 21" CRT. The ones like Sony F520, G520, G500, F500 or rebrands by Dell are excellent. There are also 21" models by other brands like Mitsubishi. The only thing they lack (at least the Sony models) in comparision to FW900 is widescreen and sharpness (not F520 and F500), but they have better screen coating. And some of them higher refresh rates. And they cost just a fraction of the price. You can play 16:9 or 16:10 letterboxed on them if you need to.
Is there any good alternative CRT 24"? Can't find any FW900 for years at a descent price, damn flippers asking around 1k for this which is to me ridiculous. I mean its a good tech but that's too much
You can buy a FW900 in China for around US $ 400. Is this a reasonable price?
 
There are none except for rebrands which are just as pricey. Hence the price. A great alternative in my opinion would be a 21" CRT. The ones like Sony F520, G520, G500, F500 or rebrands by Dell are excellent. There are also 21" models by other brands like Mitsubishi. The only thing they lack (at least the Sony models) in comparision to FW900 is widescreen and sharpness (not F520 and F500), but they have better screen coating. And some of them higher refresh rates. And they cost just a fraction of the price. You can play 16:9 or 16:10 letterboxed on them if you need to.

This is a good suggestion. The trinitrons can also be calibrated with WinDAS.
 
You can buy a FW900 in China for around US $ 400. Is this a reasonable price?
In recent years:
- we lost analog/VGA outputs from GPU's and have to also get digital-analog converters which have worse quality, lower bandwidth and are only 8-bit
- gaming LCD improved at lot, got Variable Refresh Rate technology (G-Sync/Freesync) and IPS panels became available
- FW900 became even older and thus more prone to breaking down (dried capacitors, tired components, etc.)
- FW900 price skyrocketed
- FW900 availability became virtually non-available

400$ bucks would be passable if it was mind condition and you are already big CRT fan and know you really want one. If you have not used CRT at all or very long time ago and do not even remember them all that well then my recommendation would be to search for cheap 21" Trinitrons and/or 21/22" Diamodtrons and use that for a while. Then if you are still interested in getting FW900 do so. Maybe something will pop up locally.

CRT's are praised for contrast ratio, motion performance and input lag but these things like everything in existence are relative. In the past it was pretty simple, LCD's were 60Hz and most IPS also had ton's of input lag, then some TN panels were 120Hz but compared to CRT's were pretty bad. Today good gaming IPS will have great image quality and responsiveness and unlike CRT can be used for desktop. FW900 is pretty much gaming/video only monitor... imho at least.

EDIT://
I see you already have FW900 that is broken.
Then you already should know if it is worth it for you or not :)
 
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In recent years:
- we lost analog/VGA outputs from GPU's and have to also get digital-analog converters which have worse quality, lower bandwidth and are only 8-bit
- gaming LCD improved at lot, got Variable Refresh Rate technology (G-Sync/Freesync) and IPS panels became available
- FW900 became even older and thus more prone to breaking down (dried capacitors, tired components, etc.)
- FW900 price skyrocketed
- FW900 availability became virtually non-available

400$ bucks would be passable if it was mind condition and you are already big CRT fan and know you really want one. If you have not used CRT at all or very long time ago and do not even remember them all that well then my recommendation would be to search for cheap 21" Trinitrons and/or 21/22" Diamodtrons and use that for a while. Then if you are still interested in getting FW900 do so. Maybe something will pop up locally.

CRT's are praised for contrast ratio, motion performance and input lag but these things like everything in existence are relative. In the past it was pretty simple, LCD's were 60Hz and most IPS also had ton's of input lag, then some TN panels were 120Hz but compared to CRT's were pretty bad. Today good gaming IPS will have great image quality and responsiveness and unlike CRT can be used for desktop. FW900 is pretty much gaming/video only monitor... imho at least.

EDIT://
I see you already have FW900 that is broken.
Then you already should know if it is worth it for you or not :)
I want to fix it, but there is no related accessories, and I ca n’t check the problem ... If there is really a Fw900 with good functions, I will pay $ 400 to buy it
 
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