24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

Keep The AG coating on. I have one unit with it on and another with it off. It really doesn't seem to visually impact the performance of the monitor other than it does possibly help text clarity some and overall brightness, but it is very minimal. Not worth removing if you AG coating is in good shape in my opinion.
 
the removal was done before i wrote about it here and i am regreting it :cry:

blacks are practically gone, even setting brightness to 0 or lowering the G2 level.

in the night with no lights on at all i can persive that the blacks are a little better but not has black as with the coating on. since the tube is gray from the inside, it seem the only way to darken it and get blacks back are to get a new coat or darker film to put on it i guess.

has anyone done this? i mean, to put any type of coat or film back to the tube? if so can you recomend a film for this? i would not care if it is antireflective or antistatic, i do not have problems with that, i just want to make the tube darker as it was before to recover blacks.
 
3dfan said:
the removal was done before i wrote about it here and i am regreting it :cry:

blacks are practically gone, even setting brightness to 0 or lowering the G2 level.

in the night with no lights on at all i can persive that the blacks are a little better but not has black as with the coating on. since the tube is gray from the inside, it seem the only way to darken it and get blacks back are to get a new coat or darker film to put on it i guess.

has anyone done this? i mean, to put any type of coat or film back to the tube? if so can you recomend a film for this? i would not care if it is antireflective or antistatic, i do not have problems with that, i just want to make the tube darker as it was before to recover blacks.
Click to expand...

you definitely should be able to get the blacks as low, I used the WPB guide and adjusted my unit with the WINDAS and my unit with the AG coat removed is just as black in no light as the other with AG. With proper WPB my unit is at 30 brightness and has near black contrast with black image. If I lower the brightness it will be pitch black. A proper Calibration is crucial.
 
bramabul5353, thanks for your suggestion, i am aware of the WPB which has been suggested to me many times but unfortunatelly it is hard to me to get a colorimeter where i am (colombia), but i would like to do an experiment if you agree....i know not all units work the same but can you send me your windas dat file to load on my monitor and see what happens?
 
3dfan said:
bramabul5353, thanks for your suggestion, i am aware of the WPB which has been suggested to me many times but unfortunatelly it is hard to me to get a colorimeter where i am (colombia), but i would like to do an experiment if you agree....i know not all units work the same but can you send me your windas dat file to load on my monitor and see what happens?
Click to expand...

Sure, Probably be a couple days before I get a chance to send it, but you can try it out and see if it helps your contrast.
 
3dfan said:
bramabul5353, thanks for your suggestion, i am aware of the WPB which has been suggested to me many times but unfortunatelly it is hard to me to get a colorimeter where i am (colombia), but i would like to do an experiment if you agree....i know not all units work the same but can you send me your windas dat file to load on my monitor and see what happens?
Click to expand...

have you tried contacting the sellers on ebay to see if they'll ship to your address?

Here's a current listing for the DTP-94
 
3dfan said:
the removal was done before i wrote about it here and i am regreting it :cry:

blacks are practically gone, even setting brightness to 0 or lowering the G2 level.

in the night with no lights on at all i can persive that the blacks are a little better but not has black as with the coating on. since the tube is gray from the inside, it seem the only way to darken it and get blacks back are to get a new coat or darker film to put on it i guess.

has anyone done this? i mean, to put any type of coat or film back to the tube? if so can you recomend a film for this? i would not care if it is antireflective or antistatic, i do not have problems with that, i just want to make the tube darker as it was before to recover blacks.
Click to expand...

Did you already tried the "image restoration" under color settings?
 
Hey guys, got some cool info: the HD Fury Nano GX can run 1600x1200@85hz! I bought one months ago to use with my Vita TV, and just on a whim gave it a shot with my PC. So if you're in the market for an adapter that works with your computer and your game consoles, this might be the thing to buy, until the HD Fury 5 comes out.
 
EnhancedInterrogator said:
Hey guys, got some cool info: the HD Fury Nano GX can run 1600x1200@85hz! I bought one months ago to use with my Vita TV, and just on a whim gave it a shot with my PC. So if you're in the market for an adapter that works with your computer and your game consoles, this might be the thing to buy, until the HD Fury 5 comes out.
Click to expand...
so same specs as the VCOM then. You should be able to get this resolutions working:

1600x1000 100hz
1680x1050 90hz
1920x1200 70hz
 
i tried the image restoration after lowering the g2 levels, it returned the picture as it was before the g2 lowering but still black has greyis look, im not an expert on this topic but i have doubts that a WPB adjustment will make it better considering i use this monitor mostly during the day on a non light controlled enviroment room which is half filled with street windows, i decided to go to some stores on the street with the AG coating as a sample and try to get a similar material to atttach to the tube but its been quite hard to find some with at least identical opacity, i am experimenting with some little dimmed films self-adhesive samples for polarized car windows and results seem interesting, better blacks, so i might buy tube sized ones but what worries me are the bubble leftovers when attaching to films to the tube. it seem it will be a hard and slow task.
 
EnhancedInterrogator said:
Hey guys, got some cool info: the HD Fury Nano GX can run 1600x1200@85hz! I bought one months ago to use with my Vita TV, and just on a whim gave it a shot with my PC. So if you're in the market for an adapter that works with your computer and your game consoles, this might be the thing to buy, until the HD Fury 5 comes out.
Click to expand...

1600x1200@85Hz on a crt monitor?
That thing has a 165Mhz limit of the HDMI,did you use a pixel clock patcher on video drivers?
 
Derupter said:
1600x1200@85Hz on a crt monitor?
That thing has a 165Mhz limit of the HDMI,did you use a pixel clock patcher on video drivers?
Click to expand...

It says it has a 165mhz limit on the product page but it definitely goes higher, no patch needed. Also, if you plug in your monitor before the HDMI cable, it will pass through your monitor's EDID to Windows, the same as if you hooked the monitor up directly.
 
3dfan said:
i tried the image restoration after lowering the g2 levels, it returned the picture as it was before the g2 lowering but still black has greyis look, im not an expert on this topic but i have doubts that a WPB adjustment will make it better considering i use this monitor mostly during the day on a non light controlled enviroment room which is half filled with street windows, i decided to go to some stores on the street with the AG coating as a sample and try to get a similar material to atttach to the tube but its been quite hard to find some with at least identical opacity, i am experimenting with some little dimmed films self-adhesive samples for polarized car windows and results seem interesting, better blacks, so i might buy tube sized ones but what worries me are the bubble leftovers when attaching to films to the tube. it seem it will be a hard and slow task.
Click to expand...

White point balance adjustment is nothing like the image restore. I actually have no clue what the image restore actually does. But if it's like most of Sony's other tube-correcting shenanigans, leave it alone. Just do a white point balance adjustment and never touch image restore again. It's like ABG mode on their projectors. Most enthusiasts leave ABG mode off because it tends to get in the way.
 
EnhancedInterrogator said:
I didn't think to try higher, since the Dell p992 I'm using at the moment doesn't go higher at 1600x1200. I can try something like 1920x1200@85hz and see what happens.
Click to expand...

That monitor can do 1920x1200 75Hz,if you have reached 1600x1200 85Hz you can try 1920x1200 70Hz,then if all goes well you can try to raise vertical refresh to 71-72-73 and so on until you reach the maximum pixel clock of the adapter (1920x1200 75Hz is the official limit of your monitor,don't know if it can make more)
AMD and Nvidia have their control panels for create custom resolutions,but if you don't know how to make custom resolutions,you can try CRU utility Custom Resolution Utility (CRU)
Max horizontal frequency of that monitor is 107 khz,so you can't go over 85Hz at 1200 vertical resolution
 
Derupter said:
That monitor can do 1920x1200 75Hz
Click to expand...

It's a CRT monitor, so if it can do 1600x1200 @ 85hz, it can do 1920x1200 @ 85hz, it will be the same horizontal and vertical scanning frequency. That's why I brought it up, because extra horizontal pixels don't add extra work for a CRT monitor, but they do increase the pixel clock for the video card and DAC.

And yeah, I've probably played with CRU more than anybody except for rabidz (he was the guy that was running 320x240i @ 300hz or something silly, right?), so I'll be able to to put the Nano GX through it's paces. I just hope it doesn't overheat or anything.
 
EnhancedInterrogator said:
It's a CRT monitor, so if it can do 1600x1200 @ 85hz, it can do 1920x1200 @ 85hz, it will be the same horizontal and vertical scanning frequency. That's why I brought it up, because extra horizontal pixels don't add extra work for a CRT monitor, but they do increase the pixel clock for the video card and DAC.

And yeah, I've probably played with CRU more than anybody except for rabidz (he was the guy that was running 320x240i @ 300hz or something silly, right?), so I'll be able to to put the Nano GX through it's paces. I just hope it doesn't overheat or anything.
Click to expand...

I didn't know that,i thought there was a pixel clock limit protection on monitor.
So you are a CRU expert,well i'm curious to know how much can do that converter.
 
Anyone considering the VCOM adapter should buy it and see the difference for yourself. I've been using it for over 2 weeks now, I'm still surprised how much sharper everything is. Colors are bright and there's really good gradient between each tone. If you can stomach 72hz (highest I can go with 1920x1200), then the VCOM adapter is a nice little cheap investment. The only awful thing about low refresh rate is when the screen goes white or nearly white; you can tell it's running at less than 80hz.
 
Any tips on calibrating the Artisan? I have an old XP laptop that I can use to calibrate successfully but was wondering if anyone else had success on a newer OS so I could run the calibration tool on my desktop. I've tried running Win 7 32-bit in a VM (vmware and virtualbox) but always get an error about setting the Gamma ramp in the Sony software. Not a huge deal just asking the question.
 
amlett said:
Hi.

Just arrived my VCOM adapter today. Really decent adapter, very sharp. Already tested:

1600x1200 85hz
1600x1000 100hz
1680x1050 90hz
1920x1200 70hz
Click to expand...

Please send me picture of 1600 x1200 100Hz settings in CRU. I could not get over 85hz. Thanks
 
I contacted hdfury and this is what they said:

None of our current device can do 1600x1200@85Hz, and if you try it and it works (like with HDfury4) then you are working OFF limit and the results cannot be guaranteed, the real needed bandwidth is 244MHz for such signal.

You will need to wait for HDfury5 next year, that will offer a 400MHz RAMDAC

Currently our device are HDF1/NANO : 165MHz, HDF2: 175MHz, HDF3, 200MHZ, HDF4: 225MHZ

I'm counfused,if HDMI doesn't limit the bandwidth (as shown by EnhancedInterrogator),then the limit must be tha DAC.
How can HDF2 be limited at 175MHz if it has a triple 11bit 200MHz DAC?
HDF3 and HDF4 triple 11bit 225MHz DAC
Can a 10bit DAC run to a higher frequency in 8bit mode?
 
I'll be experimenting with my Nano GX more in the next couple days. I'll let you guys know what's up. I'll also study the higher pixel clock modes to see if I notice any artifacting or high heat coming from the adapter.
 
Does anyone with a hdfury 2 know where I can get a power cable for it?

Can't find a jack small enough anywhere, I read it was 1.5mm but went to a store with 1.2mm and even that was too big.
 
master noran said:
Does anyone with a hdfury 2 know where I can get a power cable for it?

Can't find a jack small enough anywhere, I read it was 1.5mm but went to a store with 1.2mm and even that was too big.
Click to expand...

The specs are listed on their website somewhere. I found a USB>Barrel cable that was the right size, but I had to strip the wire and switch the polarity to get it to work with my HD Fury 1 (which used the same connector/voltage)
 
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danny_discus said:
Any tips on calibrating the Artisan? I have an old XP laptop that I can use to calibrate successfully but was wondering if anyone else had success on a newer OS so I could run the calibration tool on my desktop. I've tried running Win 7 32-bit in a VM (vmware and virtualbox) but always get an error about setting the Gamma ramp in the Sony software. Not a huge deal just asking the question.
Click to expand...

I have an artisan and I don't use its calibration software. All it does is adjust the expert settings of the monitor. If you do a full calibration using WinDAS and a DTP-94, you should be set.
 
rabidz7 said:
Please send me picture of 1600 x1200 100Hz settings in CRU. I could not get over 85hz. Thanks
Click to expand...

I haven't got 1600x1200@100hz. It's 1600x1000 (200 pixels less). Just used Nvidia control panel.

------------------------------------------

By the way, analogix has sent me an adaptor for testing. It should arrive next week (Tuesday o so). I'll post the results.
 
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amlett said:
I haven't got 1600x1200@100hz. It's 1600x1000 (200 pixels less). Just used Nvidia control panel.

------------------------------------------

By the way, analogix has sent me an adaptor for testing. It should arrive next week (Tuesday o so). I'll post the results.
Click to expand...

Interesting,maybe they did or found a converter with ANX6212
 
An adaptor. It seems that the adapter uses the same IC that the mobo chipset the anx6212 (they told me that). So i'll give it a try.
 
Hi everyone.

The analogix adapter arrived. It works. I've been able to get:
1920x1200@96hz
2304x1440@72hz

I asked analogix about the differences between the mobo chipset and the adapter one as I told you. Well, they sent me an adapter with a modified firmware different from the default they use in the external adaptors. It works perfectly. 1440 at 80hz will not be viable, but my main concern was 1200 at 96hz. After this testing, they are thinking about release it with this firmware they sent me. They'll provide me a link for getting the adapter when they release it, so I'll post it here as soon as they send it to me.

Awsome support from Analogix (FireflyTech), not only showing such interest about my quote at their website calling me, but also flashing and sending me a sample for testing.

You can see the adapter working here:
 
2304x1440 72Hz,my god that thing can do 340 MHz pixel clock!!
You are right awesome support,Simon Cox from Firefly Tecnology made this happen
How is the quality at such high pixel clock,differences between this and the VCOM?
 
i am in the proces of the "antiglare coating recovery", i mean, i bought a self-adhesive film specially made for polarized car windows, with about 50% opacity, a bit darker than the original but was the closest thing i found similar to the original coating, and the results so far are being pretty positive,
i got the film 3 times the size of the original coating, since i have no experience on installing it, and allow me for more trials as i learn to istall it properly, and was not able to find someone to install it on a monitor display since it is originaly made for cars, right now i am on the first trial and pherhaps there are lot of bubble leftovers on the attached film on screen and i was worried that the darker film would make everything darker, now blacks are excelent again for my likes, whites arent really affected, i feel blacks even deeper due to the darker film i guess and overall image looks now pretty much like the amoled display on the smarphone which has excelent blacks, and the refection is not being a mayor issue, even during the day on a non controlled light room, however its a very long and slow task to get it done properly, so the next step with some more time is to remove this film and try again with another cut ...at least im very happy am being to "fix" this mess in a satisfying way.

i post an image of the original coating on the right and the new film on the left, so maybe others that regret removing the anti glare coating and dont want or cannot use controlled lights for their rooms may want to try this. i ddint post pictures of the monitor with the new film since on the camera it does not look good as it does live, but for me so far it is being a very positive result.



20160711_105629.jpg
 
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like this
Don't put the coating back on
just use it in a location where there is no light behind you
I have one I've owned for 9 years and I removed the coating sheet, best thing I could have done
sharper, brighter, colors deeper
 
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