24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

don't size it up to your bezel. Maximize the horizontal width, and adjust vertical width until the circle is a circle. If you do go through WinDAS, there are guidelines for how wide and high to set the image (in mm).
 
Yeah, I believe the measurements in mm are 474x296 for for prime mode (1920x1200).

EDIT: And any other 16:10 resolutions. I think that 16:9 resolutions are 474x266 but I'm shooting from the hip on this one.
 
Anyone know how to fix oval geometry issue I'm having. If I set my monitor to 1920X1200 and sized it up to the bezel, I get an oval shape geometry issue in the center of the screen if I have a picture perfect circle. Is this something you can fix with Windas or opening up the monitor?

Yeah, I believe the measurements in mm are 474x296 for for prime mode (1920x1200).

EDIT: And any other 16:10 resolutions. I think that 16:9 resolutions are 474x266 but I'm shooting from the hip on this one.

Thanks, I'll give a shot.
 
I, too, extend an invitation to an FW-900 viewing if you're ever in mid-Missouri. ;)

What part of Missouri do you live in and what were you wanting for your FW900? I'm down in Springfield, Missouri, and might be interested.

Thanks! Anthony
 
So recently I scored a Sony Artisan monitor. I've always wanted one and was curious as to how the whole self-calibration process works, and hey - it's a Trinitron. So how does it sit? Honestly - I really like this monitor a lot. Compared to the GDM-F520...

1. It's softer. 0.24mm dot pitch makes for a softer image. At the recommended mode (1600x1200 85hz), it's hard to tell the difference between a GDM-F520 and the Artisan. Where the GDM-F520 starts to pull away though, is in the higher resolutions. To compare - The GDM-F520 at 1920x1440 75hz is as sharp as the Artisan is at 1792x1344 75hz. So that extra .02mm dot pitch actually does make a difference. Other than that, the two monitors seem to look the same

2. It's blacker. Slightly... I feel that the Artisan has slightly deeper blacks.

So that's pretty much it. I love the integrated hood on the unit, and have put velcro patches on my GDM-F520 for when I eventually buy a hood for it (Unkle Vito, soon-ish, I'll be sending you an email! :D). I got this mainly to:

A. Satisfy my curiosity.
B. Get another Trinitron for my wife and I to use for photos.

So that's the main use for this guy - he'll be my gaming and photo monitor. The GDM-F520 will be my main gaming monitor (both screens will be sparring partners with LCD monitors).
 
Nice, how much did you have to pay?
Would be interested in some pics
And wasn't there talk about someone who wanted to write a guide on how to set them up with winDAS? Or am i imagining things and this is just my wishful thinking :p
 
I'll probably write up a good workflow for the white point balance adjustment on WinDAS at some point in the near future :)
 
Nice, how much did you have to pay?
Would be interested in some pics
And wasn't there talk about someone who wanted to write a guide on how to set them up with winDAS? Or am i imagining things and this is just my wishful thinking :p

I paid $500 shipped. It's a flawless screen and was made in 2004. Both spacediver and myself have expressed wishes to create a WinDAS tutorial. I may write up a workflow too, and my coordinate the effort with him. ;)
 
I'll probably write up a good workflow for the white point balance adjustment on WinDAS at some point in the near future :)

Both spacediver and myself have expressed wishes to create a WinDAS tutorial. I may write up a workflow too, and my coordinate the effort with him. ;)


That would be greatly appreciated, my good men! :)

BTW, will this cable work with windas? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121070687261?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
 
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Nice, how much did you have to pay?
Would be interested in some pics
And wasn't there talk about someone who wanted to write a guide on how to set them up with winDAS? Or am i imagining things and this is just my wishful thinking :p

For your viewing pleasure:





Only thing this dude needed was a quick convergence touch-up in WinDAS. CR1 Monitors (at least the Artisan and GDM-F520) have a Convergence option in the Touch-Up menu. This allows you to touch up the convergence in addition to the geometry (FW900 only allows geometry touch-up). Because the process is so intuitive, you don't have to mess with the dynamic convergence. But it's still an option, if you need it. :)
 
One of the problem I had with my CRT was eyestrain due to modern motherboard graphic cards components and convergence to the DVI to VGA which would result in very weird eyestrain problems using modern PC parts.

Now most LCDS are just too bright along with LED lights which causes problems by themselves you look like a squinty ass idiot.
 
Is it true that someone or a group of people here are compiling a guide on how to calibrate the FW900 using the right equipment and WinDAS? I'd gladly pay for such a guide!
 
Yes, jbltechnispro and I are interested in doing something like this. I'd be happy to do the white point balance part of the guide, since I've discovered some very cool ways to make this easier, and have made the appropriate test patterns already. Stay posted :)
 
Maybe there should be some instruction on how to open these monitors up so they can be cleaned. I'm sure they're dusty as heck on the inside.
 
Maybe there should be some instruction on how to open these monitors up so they can be cleaned. I'm sure they're dusty as heck on the inside.

I am working on a "WinDAS User Manual" which goes over the functions of the program, and extensively over the white point balance adjustment and calibration of the Sony CPD and GDM line of monitors which includes the GDM-FW900, GDM-F520 and the GDM-C520K.

When completed, it will be in a hard copy format. I will let the community when completed.

Take are...

UV!
 
I am working on a "WinDAS User Manual" which goes over the functions of the program, and extensively over the white point balance adjustment and calibration of the Sony CPD and GDM line of monitors which includes the GDM-FW900, GDM-F520 and the GDM-C520K.

When completed, it will be in a hard copy format. I will let the community when completed.

Take are...

UV!
Cool. Would you bundle it with calibration hardware ;)?
 
Cool. Would you bundle it with calibration hardware ;)?

The hardware we use in the lab is laboratory grade and it will be extremely expensive to include it in a bundle.

Some enthusiasts have performed entry level adjustments and calibrations with pretty basic and inexpensive equipment such as computer generated patterns (computer video board signal dependent), colorimeters such as the DTP-94, X-Rite i1, and even the ColorVision Spyder, and monitor profiling software. I will let the users choose equipment & software they can afford.

The processes are pretty clear, and if they are done correctly and using the recommended equipment without cutting corners, the results will be satisfactory.

UV!
 
Just did a WPB, and this time I turned the G2 really low so I'd get super inky blacks. The blacks are so black my instrument can't even read it. Can't wait to measure it with a minolta LS-100 to see how low it got!

Because the G2 is so low, you have to do some gamma adjustment afterwards, and the result is a spectacular image - the increased contrast makes images look amazingly vibrant.
 
If your from the UK there is a decent looking pair up for auction. Only a couple hours left though...
 
I figured you guys would like this..

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Watching Steins Gate and this guy fixes CRT's obviously. I want that apron.
 
So for the last, oh seven years now? I've had this Samsung CRT television. 20 inch model, decent resolution and not too bad picture but with one flaw. The tube, after being on for ten minutes or so, will get magnetic splotches on the right and left side of it. I had always read that later Samsungs were kind of cheap and skimped on some things internally, so I started to wonder... Those splotches are right at where the speakers sit next to the screen... Could it be? Nah - of course they would remember to shield the speakers?

Nope. I took that thing apart yesterday, and BAM - magnets and all - were just sitting next to the frickin tube. Needless to say, I removed the speakers (the right one kept cutting out anyways) and the problem is gone. Will I miss the sound? No - I never used it in the first place (I've always had a stereo system or otherwise to route the sound to, and never used the tiny speakers in the television). Still though, I can't believe that they could be so dumb as to place unshielded speakers right next to the tube - right next to it! :mad:
 
Just did a fresh install and cant get my monitor above 80 Hz with drivers I have
All the links are dead, tried to google it and too much adware associated with driver downloads
Any help would be appreciated
Thanks in advanced
 
The driver would just let you use the drop down to pick the Hz rate and show all of the speeds
 
Hey guys, I bought this cable for WinDAS, do you know how to plug the cable sections correctly?

photo_1.jpg


photo_2.jpg


Cheers!

BTW: any WinDAS tutorial, especially the white balance that was previously mentioned would be a big and marvellous help :D
 
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