24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

Just because you do not want to go through with the shipping do not think others feel the same.

This is a thread about CRT not crappy LCD, thankfully multiple posts at th end of this thread where some n00b continually talked and posted screens of a crappy LCD were lost in last weeks downtime of site.

That's not it at all...I own two 21" Sony CRT's, I have not switched to LCD yet.

That doesn't change the fact that the 24" WS CRT Sony is definitely not for everyone. It's a definite niche market. I would rule against anyone buying a GRADE B CRT esp. if they are selecting this for mission critical viewing.

Please read all the details instead of acting like a fanboi.
 
Who you calling names MOFO ! :mad:

I did read your post and it was Total TOSH TBH, I never seen mention of A or B Grade so dont chage the topic. ;)

Your main issue was with postage, AGAIN this is not an issue to others inc myself. :rolleyes:

Now at the end of the day this IS a thread about a certain CRT so I and others can by Fanboys all they/I like, dont like it get lost simple as that. :cool:

You don't see me in any LCD threads talking Tosh about them and promoting CRT do you ?
 
If its minted like it claims then yes as they are getting rare.

Try get its age (wont mean it has been used more or less though) press menu button in for about 8secs, week and year of Manu will appear.

Last ones were start of 2004, possibly March/April been last AFAIK.
 
Who you calling names MOFO ! :mad:

I did read your post and it was Total TOSH TBH, I never seen mention of A or B Grade so dont chage the topic. ;)

Your main issue was with postage, AGAIN this is not an issue to others inc myself. :rolleyes:

Now at the end of the day this IS a thread about a certain CRT so I and others can by Fanboys all they/I like, dont like it get lost simple as that. :cool:

You don't see me in any LCD threads talking Tosh about them and promoting CRT do you ?

just forget about it, it's obvious you aren't reading things and just reacting. The person I was replying to was looking at B Grade FW900's hence my concern.

My main issue was not the postage at all....if you had read you'd see it took several shipments even though they were properly packed due to carrier abuse. Also my concern is many don't realize just how big this monitor is once it's on the desk.

I am a graphics professional so it was critical I had identical setups at the office and at home. I am using Sony 21" CRT's and I'd love (and may still) to pick up a couple FW900's.

However, honestly if someone is thinking the only way to be hardcore gaming or to get good colors is still choosing a CRT, they'd be wrong. Most have no need for 100% rgb, most would probably not want it anyway.

For much less that the average cost to obtain and ship the FW900, one can buy a pretty top of the line IPS LCD that has no-low input lag and response times. I was trying to be helpful and not a blind advocate. If that one poster was looking at a B grade FW900 for $400 + shipping I felt they would do much better picking up a Doublesight DS-265W at$500. Previously similar quality was $1000+...

Ultimately though if perfect color reproduction is required the FW900 would excel (properly calibrated)...outside of that lag and input delay is no longer really an issue.
.

.
 
Who you calling names MOFO ! :mad:

I did read your post and it was Total TOSH TBH, I never seen mention of A or B Grade so dont chage the topic. ;)

Your main issue was with postage, AGAIN this is not an issue to others inc myself. :rolleyes:

Now at the end of the day this IS a thread about a certain CRT so I and others can by Fanboys all they/I like, dont like it get lost simple as that. :cool:

You don't see me in any LCD threads talking Tosh about them and promoting CRT do you ?

What, seriously?
 
For much less that the average cost to obtain and ship the FW900, one can buy a pretty top of the line IPS LCD that has no-low input lag and response times. I was trying to be helpful and not a blind advocate. If that one poster was looking at a B grade FW900 for $400 + shipping I felt they would do much better picking up a Doublesight DS-265W at$500. Previously similar quality was $1000+...
lol.

wide gamut looks like shit. the doublesight does have decent input lag results but you will still be stuck with 60hz refresh rate, no matter how good the response time is (and they always lie or advertise best case scenario, nobody plays games in grayscale), a 60hz frame is still 16.7ms.

Not everyone wants to be locked into 1920x1200 native, some of use prefer high framerates to high resolution.

the only good gaming LCDs are the 120hz Samsung and hopefully the 120hz Viewsonic.

sorry for going OT, but why do people keep coming here trying to convince us to buy LCD?
 
If all I care about are things like image quality and response time (which is all someone looking for a gaming monitor should care about), then which LCDs would make me happy? Things like size and power consumption are so much less important than image quality that they are pretty much non factors in comparison. I have a CRT tv and the LCD sitting right here, and the difference between the two for even displaying the same screen (say the PS2 startup screen for example) is huge. The LCD looks dull and washed out while the CRTs colors are crisp and clear. Its not just black level or whatever either. Its the whole picture.

You do not put an LCD and a CRT together.

LCD has its virtues, such as perfect geometry, superior checkboard contrast, and, especially, that they can be much bigger, but keep CRT and LCD apart, lest CRT's crushing dynamic range advantage plunges one into despair... :)
 
lol.

wide gamut looks like shit. the doublesight does have decent input lag results but you will still be stuck with 60hz refresh rate, no matter how good the response time is (and they always lie or advertise best case scenario, nobody plays games in grayscale), a 60hz frame is still 16.7ms.

Not everyone wants to be locked into 1920x1200 native, some of use prefer high framerates to high resolution.

the only good gaming LCDs are the 120hz Samsung and hopefully the 120hz Viewsonic.

sorry for going OT, but why do people keep coming here trying to convince us to buy LCD?

TV/CRT refresh is nothing like LCD.

I was not trying to get everyone to buy LCD's...I don't use them myself....I was referring to a guy that was looking to pay $400 for a B grade FW900.

You ABSOLUTELY don't need 120hz to have a good gaming...even hardcore.

Again read what I am talking about and exactly what I am saying. Even many CRT fanatics are making the switch in the $1000+ pricepoint with the newer technology.

I am still running CRT's.
 
You do not put an LCD and a CRT together.

LCD has its virtues, such as perfect geometry, superior checkboard contrast, and, especially, that they can be much bigger, but keep CRT and LCD apart, lest CRT's crushing dynamic range advantage plunges one into despair... :)

Tell me about it. I thought my 2405 was a decent monitor til I went and put a 22" Diamondtron next to it in a darkened room. I nearly choked on my tongue at the difference.
 
TV/CRT refresh is nothing like LCD.

I was not trying to get everyone to buy LCD's...I don't use them myself....I was referring to a guy that was looking to pay $400 for a B grade FW900.

You ABSOLUTELY don't need 120hz to have a good gaming...even hardcore.

Again read what I am talking about and exactly what I am saying. Even many CRT fanatics are making the switch in the $1000+ pricepoint with the newer technology.

I am still running CRT's.
I'll answer line by line:

I know they don't refresh the same way, but 60hz LCD even if it doesn't flicker will still tear w/o vsync because the frames are too slow. Playing capped to 60fps with vsync on is not an option when a game requires 100 or more fps for connection reasons (think anything based on Halflife, Source, or Quake).

Got it now, I still don't agree about getting any LCD over even a B grade FW900, other than the real 120hz models.

You absolutely need a lot more than 60hz imo. Vsync will ruin gameplay and triple buffering adds input lag. Not to mention the image is much much smoother, I can tell the difference between 60 and 120 a mile away, and I can only live with 60 in single player. A 2ms or 5ms or whatever LCD does absolutely nothing for you if you're stuck with 16.7ms frames.

Nothing to say here really, I can see how many would like to switch but I won't do it until the 120hz models are available and tested (waiting for reviews of the Viewsonic since the Samsung comes in a stupid 3d bundle), and even then I'm not thrilled about losing lower native resolutions. I'm definitely getting tired of adjusting geometry all the time but whenever I play something on LCD I wanna throw up.
 
I assume you mean a 15,000 to 1 or better true contrast ratio if getting there means squaring up with the dynamic range of a premium CRT...

(Though LCDs can have other virtues...)

No, I meant more like 1500-2000:1. I didn't say it would be "as good as" a premium CRT. I do think that it will be good enough that the grey-ish blacks would stand out far less to most users by the time we're there.

Hell, some of the best plasmas true (non-marketing, non-dynamic etc...) contrast ratios seem to be around 15000:1. I wouldn't expect to see that from LCD any time soon, if ever.
 
Hi, everyone. I want to attest that I I've successfully replaced the dead flyback transformer on my FW900 with the flyback taken from a working Dell P1110 (Sony G520 OEM) monitor. The two looked identical side-by-side in every way, and the most amazing thing was that I thought that I would need to adjust the focus knobs on the flyback after the change, and I was wrong. The picture was perfect the minute I switched on the monitor. A new FW900 flyback sells for around $80-$100 online, but you could get a used P1110 for much less, I think.
 
How do e-IPS LCDs compare to CRTs in a side by side comparison during gameplay?

Like say the Dell UltraSharp 2209WA vs FW900. Will the LCDs colors still look dull and washed out in comparison?
 
Hi, everyone. I want to attest that I I've successfully replaced the dead flyback transformer on my FW900 with the flyback taken from a working Dell P1110 (Sony G520 OEM) monitor. The two looked identical side-by-side in every way, and the most amazing thing was that I thought that I would need to adjust the focus knobs on the flyback after the change, and I was wrong. The picture was perfect the minute I switched on the monitor. A new FW900 flyback sells for around $80-$100 online, but you could get a used P1110 for much less, I think.

What really?! :eek: What problems were you having? Im contemplating of swapping mine out because i hear loud *snaps* and the screen goes super fuzzy for half a second, once in a blue moon. Is that what was happening to yours too? Or was it some other reason?

On another note, has anybody tried adjusting the focus pots? Id want to do it to mine, but Ive heard that you have to clean off the white paste that's on right now, then adjust it. Because if you don't the screws creep back to what they were. If so, do i have to re-apply some paste/caulk stuff again, or could i just leave them "un-pasted", so to speak, after adjusting them?
 
How do e-IPS LCDs compare to CRTs in a side by side comparison during gameplay?

Like say the Dell UltraSharp 2209WA vs FW900. Will the LCDs colors still look dull and washed out in comparison?

At night or in an otherwise darkened room, yes.

CRT has a dramatically better dynamic range and ability to produce black compared to all LCD.

(At least without some kind of local dimming being employed as found in a couple of LCD TV series...)

IPS has an advantage compared to other LCD with regard to viewing angle. In that aspect, it is more like CRT...
 
On another note, has anybody tried adjusting the focus pots? Id want to do it to mine, but Ive heard that you have to clean off the white paste that's on right now, then adjust it. Because if you don't the screws creep back to what they were. If so, do i have to re-apply some paste/caulk stuff again, or could i just leave them "un-pasted", so to speak, after adjusting them?

You're really over-thinking the focus pots. I adjust focus pots annually or so on every CRT device I've used for 10 years (every computer monitor, work and home, TVs, everything). Components wear and re-adjustment is necessary. Same goes for dynamic convergence through WinDAS in the case of the FW900.

First you need to be concerned with not killing yourself - the voltages are lethal. Second use plastic tools if you have them. Third, be as precise as you can, and simply repeat every several months.
 
I never had to adjust the pots. I guess maybe this is a question if the FW900 gets old enough...
 
I never had to adjust the pots. I guess maybe this is a question if the FW900 gets old enough...

Generally you don't know what you're missing until you adjust it. The component creep is so slow you don't realize that you've lost clarity until you restore it.

I've adjusted the focus pot(s) on brand new CRTs and have seen improvement.

Again, lethal electrocution is a real possibility if you aren't careful or don't know what you're doing, so you do so at your own risk...
 
Headsup for anyone in the UK near London, I've got a spares/repair FW900 going free. I'll be throwing it on eBay for £3 to cover the fees sometime next week. If anyone is nearby and wants dibs, PM me. The case is in good nick.
 
I just got a grade B FW-900 for 180$. I can get a warranty from squaretrade, should I? It has a slight scratch on the middle of it, can I fix this? Is it ok that I put the drivers on a cd and install them instead of a 3.5 floppy? I just selected them all and clicked install I dont know if this worked.

It seemed like it was really dark compared to my LCD, I tried using image restore but it didnt do much. Could that be because I didnt install the drivers right?
 
I just got a grade B FW-900 for 180$. I can get a warranty from squaretrade, should I? It has a slight scratch on the middle of it, can I fix this? Is it ok that I put the drivers on a cd and install them instead of a 3.5 floppy? I just selected them all and clicked install I dont know if this worked.

It seemed like it was really dark compared to my LCD, I tried using image restore but it didnt do much. Could that be because I didnt install the drivers right?

Anything is possible...the scratch may over be in the film and if so you can remove that. Overall the picture will be much brighter then. I have now seen a 21" Sony CRT with and without that film and I don't like the one without it. However that could be due to the brightness control not being able to cut the level down enough. Some of the 21" Sony's had a brightness issue already.

The PC usually doesn't care where the drivers are run from. If there is no setup, right click and install the .inf file. You should then see the monitor named properly in the display settings.
 
As with any display, the FW900 will require adjustemet of settings on the OSD to balance color, gamma, contrast, temperature and brightness. Take your time and be EXTREMELY PATIENT doing this before you conclude that something is wrong with your monitor. If you've exhausted every option, then you might start question if you need to do more drastic adjustments.
 
At night or in an otherwise darkened room, yes.

CRT has a dramatically better dynamic range and ability to produce black compared to all LCD.

(At least without some kind of local dimming being employed as found in a couple of LCD TV series...)

IPS has an advantage compared to other LCD with regard to viewing angle. In that aspect, it is more like CRT...

I don't get your first statement. Are you saying that in a dark room the LCDs colors will be washed out and in a lit room they wont? I asked because I noticed that my Samsung T220s colors look substantially more dull and washed out compared to my CRT tv. Is there any LCD that can display colors that are as sharp and rich? And will there be any difference in dynamic range/color quality between a CRT tv and a CRT monitor?
 
OK guys i just got me a Mitsubishi Diamondtron Pro 2070 Super bright 22" crt in mint conditions. I also have a Onkyo Sr506 receiver with a pair of Behringer B2030P speakers and a dayton 12" subwoofer, What i wanna know is what would i need to connect the crt to the ps3. I already got the ps3 connected to the receiver for sound with an optical connection.
 
It is only ~$50 on monoprice. You won't find anything else that is anywhere near the quality of that.
 
Well im either getting the HDfury or the HD BOX PRO. What do you guys think?

HDFury is vga to hdmi

HD Box Pro is vga to component and you can change the picture settings and aspect ratio and any resolution.

HDfury might better picture because its not component right?
 
Well im either getting the HDfury or the HD BOX PRO. What do you guys think?

HDFury is vga to hdmi

HD Box Pro is vga to component and you can change the picture settings and aspect ratio and any resolution.

HDfury might better picture because its not component right?

i think you'll be disappointed with the HDfury. save the cash and buy a 1080p tv.
 
Well im either getting the HDfury or the HD BOX PRO. What do you guys think?

HDFury is vga to hdmi

HD Box Pro is vga to component and you can change the picture settings and aspect ratio and any resolution.

HDfury might better picture because its not component right?

I have an old X2VGA2 that I'm not using, I'll sell it to you if you want to go the component-to-VGA route -- well, provided shipping from Montreal isn't too bad. If you want one new though, it's still cheap cheap, $60+shipping I think; it was a more expensive back when I got it. :(

It was the most awesome thing I ever got for my original Xbox. Syberia looked great (was one of 5 1080i titles), most of the rest were 480p, with about 20 or 30 supporting 720p, but still looked great compared to my 1080p LCD, since they didn't need any scaling on the CRT. Also good for the PS2, but it only had one HD game: Gran Turismo 4 (1080i), about 60% of the rest of the PS2 games were 480i, while the remaining 40% or so were 480p.

Only thing is that it does not work well for 480i titles, but at least displays them. A moot point, since this only affects the PS2, and you'll be using a PS3 instead, which I believe forces the games to render at progressive if not upscaled. Hell, even the DREAMCAST released in 1998 supports 480p on all its titles, another reason why it was so far ahead of its time, and why it'll also look good on a HD CRT. :D
 
I have an HDFury. The problem with it is that it doesn't include gamma correction, so either you play it dark w/ loss of details, or really bright and washed out. I had to get a gamma correction device from curtpalme to fix it. (Box 1040?)

I think there's a newer version HDFury type device with built-in gamma correction. I could be wrong, though.

Any component video to VGA conversion type device will have similar problems. If it's not a problem for you, then just go ahead and use it w/out gamma correction.

Dreamcast doesn't have this problem as it outputs VGA natively via VGA BOX.
Same thing for XBOX360 - just get the VGA cable.

XRGB-2 also has built-in gamma correction, for older 480i consoles.
But it's hard to find, and you need custom cables.

PS3 you'll need a component to VGA converter, preferably w/ gamma correction.

Also, I don't know if other people have this problem, but if I use PS3 in 1080P
on HDFury, left and right sides of screen have chopped off signal information.
As most games run at 720P anyhow, I just run at 720P, which has no problem.
 
I don't get your first statement. Are you saying that in a dark room the LCDs colors will be washed out and in a lit room they wont? I asked because I noticed that my Samsung T220s colors look substantially more dull and washed out compared to my CRT tv. Is there any LCD that can display colors that are as sharp and rich? And will there be any difference in dynamic range/color quality between a CRT tv and a CRT monitor?

Poor black level capability of LCD (if it doesn't have local dimming) is less apparent during the daytime, but can be at night. This will then give the display a washed out look compared to the CRT...
 
I have an HDFury. The problem with it is that it doesn't include gamma correction, so either you play it dark w/ loss of details, or really bright and washed out. I had to get a gamma correction device from curtpalme to fix it. (Box 1040?)

I think there's a newer version HDFury type device with built-in gamma correction. I could be wrong, though.

Any component video to VGA conversion type device will have similar problems. If it's not a problem for you, then just go ahead and use it w/out gamma correction.

Dreamcast doesn't have this problem as it outputs VGA natively via VGA BOX.
Same thing for XBOX360 - just get the VGA cable.

XRGB-2 also has built-in gamma correction, for older 480i consoles.
But it's hard to find, and you need custom cables.

PS3 you'll need a component to VGA converter, preferably w/ gamma correction.

Also, I don't know if other people have this problem, but if I use PS3 in 1080P
on HDFury, left and right sides of screen have chopped off signal information.
As most games run at 720P anyhow, I just run at 720P, which has no problem.

Can't you just change the monitor brightness/settings for the dark problem? i know i have a superbright button i don't use..

Anyways.. the problem with HDBox Pro is that you can only buy it from that website and it only accepts paypal and ships from china(so thats like $15 and 3 weeks shipping)

This is a tough decision... i wish they were all cheaper and accesible i would buy them all .
 
I have always preferred CRT computer monitors because of the superior image quality but there is a big downside. They are just not designed to last. In most monitor the CRT is designed to last perhaps the warranty period and that is it. so if you get 3 years out of a CRT monitor you are on barrowed time.
Also the the associated electronics to drive the CRT is subject to failure too. Any problem, and it is junk. Most electronics shops will not service them because of the low replacement costs.
My last CRT was a mid level 19" NEC. The picture quality blew away any LCD I ever saw. I paid extra for a quailty NEC monitor because I didn't think LCDs were all that hot. To my disgust it died just a few months after the warranty expired. I purchased an Acer 19" LCD which was cheaper than the CRT monitor it replaced. It has already lasted longer than the CRT did without a single problem.
 
I have always preferred CRT computer monitors because of the superior image quality but there is a big downside. They are just not designed to last. In most monitor the CRT is designed to last perhaps the warranty period and that is it. so if you get 3 years out of a CRT monitor you are on barrowed time.
Also the the associated electronics to drive the CRT is subject to failure too. Any problem, and it is junk. Most electronics shops will not service them because of the low replacement costs.
My last CRT was a mid level 19" NEC. The picture quality blew away any LCD I ever saw. I paid extra for a quailty NEC monitor because I didn't think LCDs were all that hot. To my disgust it died just a few months after the warranty expired. I purchased an Acer 19" LCD which was cheaper than the CRT monitor it replaced. It has already lasted longer than the CRT did without a single problem.

The 15+ year old CRT monitors that are on 24/7 in a few of my dispatch centers would disagree with you.
 
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