24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

jka

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This is the same issue I had with my GDM-FW9011. Haven’t found a fix it was doing this for 2-3 years and now it never gets to a clear screen. Always that green screen with lines then it auto shuts off.

Here’s a video of mine:

The flashing light is most likely the Auto Brightness shutoff as the screen gets too bright.

If you find a fix let me know.

Have you tried to have all this at the same time BEFORE turning it ON:

- lower contrast and brightness in OSD to zero
- use white color background

then turning it ON and also open the OSD menu as soon possible (even though you can't see it because it's still all black during the initial boot up).

Then wait until the image stabilizes (darkens) and there are no more retrace lines and turn back up the contrast and brightness.

It may take a few reboots in case you will not have enough time to lower the contrast and brightness down before it shuts off.

I need to do this on my F520 every time before I turn it OFF otherwise I get similar looking issues (no retrace lines though) when I start it back up the next day. And my unit is WPB calibrated - if you did not do WPB and you can do that then surely do that.

You are correct about it being shut off by a safety mechanism that basically detects there is more electrons in the tube than the unit can suck away. During boot the high-voltage is not at it's peak and it takes 20-60 minutes to stabilize at peak. Until then the picture appears lighter/washed out because the electrons are bouncing around in the tube (and hitting the "screen" again and again at off angles. In ideal world, the electron sent by cathode (and deflected by electromagnets) hits the "screen" and then bounces from that to the tube somewhere which is coated with conductive coating that is connected to the high-voltage anode. This is the whole reason why there is high-voltage in these monitors, you need to garbage collect the negatively charged electrons to the positively charged anode. And you need a lot of this power hence the high-voltage. So again, if this garbage collection fails, there will be electron house party in the tube and you wouldn't want that so it shut itself off as a precaution. This is just my limited understanding after using these babies for some time now.
 

brownvim

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Have you tried to have all this at the same time BEFORE turning it ON:

- lower contrast and brightness in OSD to zero
- use white color background

then turning it ON and also open the OSD menu as soon possible (even though you can't see it because it's still all black during the initial boot up).

Then wait until the image stabilizes (darkens) and there are no more retrace lines and turn back up the contrast and brightness.

It may take a few reboots in case you will not have enough time to lower the contrast and brightness down before it shuts off.

I need to do this on my F520 every time before I turn it OFF otherwise I get similar looking issues (no retrace lines though) when I start it back up the next day. And my unit is WPB calibrated - if you did not do WPB and you can do that then surely do that.

You are correct about it being shut off by a safety mechanism that basically detects there is more electrons in the tube than the unit can suck away. During boot the high-voltage is not at it's peak and it takes 20-60 minutes to stabilize at peak. Until then the picture appears lighter/washed out because the electrons are bouncing around in the tube (and hitting the "screen" again and again at off angles. In ideal world, the electron sent by cathode (and deflected by electromagnets) hits the "screen" and then bounces from that to the tube somewhere which is coated with conductive coating that is connected to the high-voltage anode. This is the whole reason why there is high-voltage in these monitors, you need to garbage collect the negatively charged electrons to the positively charged anode. And you need a lot of this power hence the high-voltage. So again, if this garbage collection fails, there will be electron house party in the tube and you wouldn't want that so it shut itself off as a precaution. This is just my limited understanding after using these babies for some time now.
I have sold it on eBay, just waiting for the guy who won to collect.

I would lower the brightness like you said on startup in the past when it worked, when it would start up there was a green tint / washed out look to everything. It would settle after 30 mins so then I would bring the brightness back up.

it was WPB calibrated too, loved the picture in motion.
 
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Focus on my phone camera is broken, but I’m at Micro Center and this QVS “XHDV-A” advertises 2560x1440p support on the packaging.
 

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I had something like this occur with a Samsung 900IFT, and it did eventually completely stop working. I ended up recycling it. I regret that now, I should have made an attempt to fix it.

But yeah, I would definitely open up the GDM5410 and take a look inside for any bulging caps. Just because it was made during the capacitor plague.
I wouldn't say defective capacitors. It's just that the oxide layer inside an electrolytic capacitor degrades if it remains unpowered for too long, and it needs to remain powered for some time to recover (IF it recovers, it might end shorted inside :dead:).If these monitors really are new old stock that remained unused for 20 years, the capacitors should still be good but they definitively aren't in their best shape right out of the box. ;)
I checked the capacitors that I could see, and none of them looked like they were bulging. It was difficult to see them through the shielding though, so I may have missed some.
 
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He had the monitor for 3 days. During that time he averaged about 3 hours of use each day. The arching sound occurred about one per hour before sending it back.
Thanks for checking! My monitor doesn't seem to be arcing that much, I had it running for a few hours the other day and didn't notice it arc at all. It looks like both monitors have the same problem though. I don't think they would both have the same components be defective from the factory, so I wonder what is causing the problem. Maybe it is from the conditions that the monitors were stored in, or it could be related to the capacitors/spark gaps.
 

Wirysage

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Alot of CRT experts in this thread. Ok, those of us who own 2070sb and the rebadged versions, what does the 'constant brightness' setting really do on a 2070sb? Does it crank up the g2 voltage and ruin the color temperature? It says it's a setting for aging monitors but really is it a gimmick? It seems to be some sort of weird mode like built in WINDAS for Mitsubishi/NEC made monitors?
 

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Alot of CRT experts in this thread. Ok, those of us who own 2070sb and the rebadged versions, what does the 'constant brightness' setting really do on a 2070sb? Does it crank up the g2 voltage and ruin the color temperature? It says it's a setting for aging monitors but really is it a gimmick? It seems to be some sort of weird mode like built in WINDAS for Mitsubishi/NEC made monitors?

Weird, I wasn’t aware of that setting - I have a Diamond Pro 930SB-BK which is similar, but definitely doesn’t have that setting. Does the 2070SB have “Super Bright Mode”? If not, I wonder if they’re the same thing
 

Enhanced Interrogator

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Alot of CRT experts in this thread. Ok, those of us who own 2070sb and the rebadged versions, what does the 'constant brightness' setting really do on a 2070sb? Does it crank up the g2 voltage and ruin the color temperature? It says it's a setting for aging monitors but really is it a gimmick? It seems to be some sort of weird mode like built in WINDAS for Mitsubishi/NEC made monitors?

It's pretty much the same thing as "color return" on the Trinitron monitors.

It runs some internal tests to see if the monitor is outputting enough voltage in certain ranges, as far as I can tell. And then it makes some adjustments. I've done it a few times over the years and it seems to make things slightly brighter and more accurate. I haven't read about it in a while but it's basically to counter aging of the electronics, not sure exactly what is happening under the hood
 

jka

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Weird, I wasn’t aware of that setting - I have a Diamond Pro 930SB-BK which is similar, but definitely doesn’t have that setting. Does the 2070SB have “Super Bright Mode”? If not, I wonder if they’re the same thing
Also known as IMAGE RESTORATION on Trinitrons. If you perform it on Trinitrons, you can go undo it by loading the previous DAT file to memory. But on Diamondtrons you would need to change the settings back manually. And it won't tell you which settings it changed. So you need to have them all noted down, ALL the settings, including those from the service menu, and there is a ton of them. You do know about the service menu right? You can do sort of a manual WPB in there, I posted some amateurish guide way back in this thread.
 

jka

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Enhanced Interrogator Sorry, I can't remember now, was it perhaps you who has F520 and can perform WPB without any issues like errors or washed out colors after WPB? If yes, could you please kindly let me know the exact model of the USB thingy you have and which connections do you connect? (I think the 5V connection is optional so that's why I ask).
 
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Also known as IMAGE RESTORATION on Trinitrons. If you perform it on Trinitrons, you can go undo it by loading the previous DAT file to memory. But on Diamondtrons you would need to change the settings back manually. And it won't tell you which settings it changed. So you need to have them all noted down, ALL the settings, including those from the service menu, and there is a ton of them. You do know about the service menu right? You can do sort of a manual WPB in there, I posted some amateurish guide way back in this thread.
Yeah, I am aware of it. Have not had to use it as the previous owner of the monitor hardly ever used the thing / the functions of the OSD menu thus far have been… well, *more* than adequate! I have had this 930SB (which I use as my main and ONLY PC monitor) for more than 2 years now, though - so now that you mention it, it’s probably due time to pick up a colorimeter & calibrate the thing. As well as my other assorted CRTs!
 

Enhanced Interrogator

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Enhanced Interrogator Sorry, I can't remember now, was it perhaps you who has F520 and can perform WPB without any issues like errors or washed out colors after WPB? If yes, could you please kindly let me know the exact model of the USB thingy you have and which connections do you connect? (I think the 5V connection is optional so that's why I ask).

Nah, don't have a F520, and I still haven't calibrated any of my PC CRTs. I have two Dell P991's in desperate need of a WinDAS run, but with this LaCie unit, and my P992 that is still running well enough, I don't need to learn WinDAS quite yet.

I still should though, my P992 is getting close, running brightness at near 0 to get true black.
 

jka

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Nah, don't have a F520, and I still haven't calibrated any of my PC CRTs...
Thanks for the quick reply. It took me a while to sift through the thread but I found who it was now ... Definitely recommend doing WPB every 6 months at least.

Paging doctor jbltecnicspro ... Could you please kindly let me know the exact model of the USB thingy you had for F520 and which connections you connect? (I think the 5V connection is optional so that's why I ask) The thingies I tried did not perform WPB correctly.
 

jka

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I was browsing some analog photography and I spotted this sort of a recurring effect on grass or trees or concrete etc.

It looks very eye-pleasing:

https://i.redd.it/nkg8pa6ssuu61.jpg
https://i.redd.it/tldkoflhkqg51.jpg
https://i.redd.it/0vpnoqpx9zd61.jpg
https://i.redd.it/y09tozx0gfv51.jpg
https://i.redd.it/kt6phbbmyjh41.jpg

It's most noticeable when you zoom out the photos a little bit.

If I had to give it a name I would maybe call it sateen because that's the kind of feeling it evokes in me. A soft shimmering sateen 😎

Anyone knows what's this effect officially called?

The thing is, I love that effect and I immediately recognized it because when I play games on a CRT, it does give the games similar characteristics, especially in the higher resolutions. It's not a huge difference mind you but I do notice and appreciate it.

I am assuming OLED does not look like that, right? The effect is probably caused by the infinite number of much softer "pixels" that forever blend together.
 

jbltecnicspro

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Thanks for the quick reply. It took me a while to sift through the thread but I found who it was now ... Definitely recommend doing WPB every 6 months at least.

Paging doctor jbltecnicspro ... Could you please kindly let me know the exact model of the USB thingy you had for F520 and which connections you connect? (I think the 5V connection is optional so that's why I ask) The thingies I tried did not perform WPB correctly.
I think I still have my adapter. I bought it almost 10 years ago though so unless it has self-identifying marks on it I don’t know. I can dig it out later.
 

jka

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I think I still have my adapter. I bought it almost 10 years ago though so unless it has self-identifying marks on it I don’t know. I can dig it out later.
Thank you, close up photos front and back would be much appreciated, especially when without markings. Any chance you still remember if you hooked up the 5V connection or not?
 

Flybye

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Focus on my phone camera is broken, but I’m at Micro Center and this QVS “XHDV-A” advertises 2560x1440p support on the packaging.
Except that resolution is only part of the equation. Refresh rate is the other, and that is what many of the adapters fail to do great with.
 

jbltecnicspro

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Thank you, close up photos front and back would be much appreciated, especially when without markings. Any chance you still remember if you hooked up the 5V connection or not?
Pretty sure I did. You think I shouldn’t have?
 
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Except that resolution is only part of the equation. Refresh rate is the other, and that is what many of the adapters fail to do great with.
Yeah, but the *Displayport* to VGAs tend to be the ones which go REALLY high. I don't think a single person out there (on this forum or otherwise) has confirmed there's a *HDMI* to VGA out there that works at 2560x1440p, even at 60Hz. Noteworthy for situations like the ones The_Guffman has brought up a page or two back.

Did you buy it ?
Also, could you tell me the name of it ? I can't make it out in the picture.
I wrote the brand (QVS) and model number (XHDV-A) in the post that you quoted. Didn't buy it, I've been so busy - I still need to test the limits of the Tripp Lite P131-06N-2VA-U that I've mentioned in this thread :eek:
 

melibond

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Yeah, but the *Displayport* to VGAs tend to be the ones which go REALLY high. I don't think a single person out there (on this forum or otherwise) has confirmed there's a *HDMI* to VGA out there that works at 2560x1440p, even at 60Hz. Noteworthy for situations like the ones The_Guffman has brought up a page or two back.


I wrote the brand (QVS) and model number (XHDV-A) in the post that you quoted. Didn't buy it, I've been so busy - I still need to test the limits of the Tripp Lite P131-06N-2VA-U that I've mentioned in this thread :eek:
Thank you. I missed it. Tripp Lite P131-06N-2VA-U looks interesting.
 

jka

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Pretty sure I did. You think I shouldn’t have?
I think it does not matter when the USB port is powered and stable enough. But I had my fair share of physically busted USB ports that would disconnect all the time => probably not something you want happening when writing to the monitor memory, but I think the memory should have some safety mechanism to detect unfinished data and revert to previous data. So my recommendation would be to also connect 5V which is hopefully used as a backup power when the USB is also powered.

Anyway, what I think is not that important now, I wanted to replicate your environment.

But! I have some tiny good news and it is that I think I finally made that new thingy work. I have yet to start WPB but I was able to access the Expert tools like DAT viewer etc in Windas (which is normally not possible unless you have a working thingy plugged in). I found some latest drivers, which worked, on manufacturer's website (which was way too easy so I don't think they were there before). Here is the link if you come from the future:

http://www.prolific.com.tw/US/ShowProduct.aspx?p_id=225&pcid=41

Untouched original ZIP file (81be4ffa4086c6f846c8d01808f50e9d *PL23XX_Prolific_DriverInstaller_v402.zip) with the drivers also attached for posterity. I think the full name of my chip version is PL2303HXA (A at the end meaning revision "A"). It is apparently unsupported since 2012 but hey, it seems to work and the driver (3.8.41.0) seems to be dated 11. 11. 2021. The device in the device manager is literally named "PL2303HXA PHASED OUT SINCE 2012. PLEASE CONTACT YOUR SUPPLIER.". I have also reset all settings in the "Port Settings" tab to defaults, including Advanced section and am using COM2. Just in case the previous thingy I used would be conflicting somehow.

Wish me luck!
 

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jka

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Unfortunately the new thingy produces the exact same issues as the one before it. I already mentioned several time here, for example at => https://hardforum.com/threads/24-wi...ived-comments.952788/page-459#post-1045055441

If you are curious, I am attaching the resulting DAT.

WPB result is a washed out image. I can fix black level by lowering G2 in DAT by 20 points. But that results in a very dark image, ~35 nits on fullwhite :cry:

I am also attaching (64) screenshots of all WPB steps, among them is also the error message (248a.PNG and 248b.PNG). Maybe somebody will find it useful, it's a good reference. NOTE: The actual values in the screenshots will not correspond to the above DAT file because the screenshots were taken during a different WPB procedure.
 

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melibond

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I noticed ghosting in the last few days on my FW900. I don't remember seeing ghosting on any other CRT monitor or TV I've ever owned, so, it seems weird. I thought maybe refresh rate worked differently here, so, I matched the framerate to the refresh rate, but, when I move the camera, there is still some ghosting.

It's not like that fluid ghosting that happens on LCD or OLED, it's like a stuttery ghosting. Which is why I thought it was something like the refresh not catching up with the frames right...

Have any of You experienced anything like this ?

It's not bothersome per say in games, but, when watching scrolling text on a video, it becomes a lot more apparent, and the jitter makes it harder to read.

I am using the Delock DP to VGA converter, with the Analogix ANX9847 chip.
 

rabidz7

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Would there be any interest in a brand new 30", 16:10, 0.08 dot pitch, 400kHz horizontal, 300Hz vertical CRT for $8000? It would be capable of 8K 7680x4800 at 80Hz.

I may be able to supply this monitor soon, but nothing is certain yet.
 

cesarioFL71

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Would there be any interest in a brand new 30", 16:10, 0.08 dot pitch, 400kHz horizontal, 300Hz vertical CRT for $8000? It would be capable of 8K 7680x4800 at 80Hz.

I may be able to supply this monitor soon, but nothing is certain yet.
Would there be any interest in a brand new 30", 16:10, 0.08 dot pitch, 400kHz horizontal, 300Hz vertical CRT for $8000? It would be capable of 8K 7680x4800 at 80Hz.

I may be able to supply this monitor soon, but nothing is certain yet.
C'mon man...... (in my best Joe Biden voice) I've watched you for years make these types of claims. What is your game man? What do you get from these wild postings?
 

rabidz7

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This time I believe I actually have a manufacturer. Still will be a few months though
 

Strat_84

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This time I believe I actually have a manufacturer. Still will be a few months though
I'd believe this when I see it with my own eyes. :D
The machinery and the knowledge to make high resolution CRTs is gone, and they didn't go past 24". Technically, it's not easy to jump to 30", and the weight would certainly become a real issue. And how could a manufacturer genuinely able to make a monitor with such specs suddenly pop-up out of nowhere, when the last ones with some know how are limited to low end oscilloscope tubes ?
 

Starfalcon

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I'd believe this when I see it with my own eyes. :D
The machinery and the knowledge to make high resolution CRTs is gone, and they didn't go past 24". Technically, it's not easy to jump to 30", and the weight would certainly become a real issue. And how could a manufacturer genuinely able to make a monitor with such specs suddenly pop-up out of nowhere, when the last ones with some know how are limited to low end oscilloscope tubes ?

Yeah same here, when the last CRT factory was sold to a chinese company, they were unable to make anything but junk. It takes people that can work the voodoo to make good screens, it isnt something that can be learned, its more by feel and knowing when it is right. All those people are long gone and it would take many years even to turn out barely working garbage at this point.
 

melibond

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Yeah, but the *Displayport* to VGAs tend to be the ones which go REALLY high. I don't think a single person out there (on this forum or otherwise) has confirmed there's a *HDMI* to VGA out there that works at 2560x1440p, even at 60Hz. Noteworthy for situations like the ones The_Guffman has brought up a page or two back.


I wrote the brand (QVS) and model number (XHDV-A) in the post that you quoted. Didn't buy it, I've been so busy - I still need to test the limits of the Tripp Lite P131-06N-2VA-U that I've mentioned in this thread :eek:
Any news on the Tripp Lite ? I'm thinking of maybe ordering the QVS.
 

jbltecnicspro

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Would there be any interest in a brand new 30", 16:10, 0.08 dot pitch, 400kHz horizontal, 300Hz vertical CRT for $8000? It would be capable of 8K 7680x4800 at 80Hz.

I may be able to supply this monitor soon, but nothing is certain yet.
Does a bear shit in the woods? Assuming you're serious - of course there would be interest, except not at $8000. Most of us cannot justify such a purchase. That said if you have an example and want someone to review/test/calibrate and post impressions on, I'd be happy to do it.
 

jbltecnicspro

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I'd believe this when I see it with my own eyes. :D
The machinery and the knowledge to make high resolution CRTs is gone, and they didn't go past 24". Technically, it's not easy to jump to 30", and the weight would certainly become a real issue. And how could a manufacturer genuinely able to make a monitor with such specs suddenly pop-up out of nowhere, when the last ones with some know how are limited to low end oscilloscope tubes ?
That's not true. There certainly were larger, higher resolution monitors. The big one that Carmack used comes to mind (I don't remember the manufacturer - Integraph? I think it used a Panasonic tube). It most certainly CAN be done.
 

Strat_84

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That's not true. There certainly were larger, higher resolution monitors. The big one that Carmack used comes to mind (I don't remember the manufacturer - Integraph? I think it used a Panasonic tube). It most certainly CAN be done.
That's the InterView 28hd96. It was larger but with a lower resolution. TV CRT tubes were larger as well (up to 36" for trinitrons for example), but the resolution/pitch was significantly lower than the latest computer CRTs. ;)
 

jbltecnicspro

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That's the InterView 28hd96. It was larger but with a lower resolution. TV CRT tubes were larger as well (up to 36" for trinitrons for example), but the resolution/pitch was significantly lower than the latest computer CRTs. ;)
I would honestly rather see a laser projection system refined. It basically is a CRT monitor in practice (scanning out the image) except using lasers.
 

Strat_84

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I would honestly rather see a laser projection system refined. It basically is a CRT monitor in practice (scanning out the image) except using lasers.
Oh, interesting find. I can't see any price for current models and it probably costs a kidney or two given the giant display surface, but the technology is definitively interesting. :)
 

vegeta535

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That's the InterView 28hd96. It was larger but with a lower resolution. TV CRT tubes were larger as well (up to 36" for trinitrons for example), but the resolution/pitch was significantly lower than the latest computer CRTs. ;)
I remember there was a 40" Sony Trinitron CRT TV near the end of the tube TV line. That thing was massive.
 

jbltecnicspro

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I remember there was a 40" Sony Trinitron CRT TV near the end of the tube TV line. That thing was massive.
Only a hi-scan though. 852x1080?

Edit: There were only 3 “super fine” models that I’m aware of. The venerable xbr960 (34 inch widescreen), xs955? (30 inch widescreen), and a 36 inch 4:3 one. Super fines were 1440x1080.
 
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