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sorry, should have been clearer
Thank you.sorry, should have been clearer
from the post i just quoted:
"I took photos and wrote up this experiment and the results in detail, and posted it on the forum. It was within the last 3 months. I can't find that post though! Perhaps it got deleted or something, or never made it through."
You could be right of course in that they might not pay.
$3000? Sure. $35,000? Nope.
How did you go, did it work out for you?omg; thank you! ordered with super express shipping >.> ETA Wednesday... can't wait
Now... if only I can find another P1130 or equivalent in Toronto, Canada at a reasonable price as a backup unit.
Don't mind me, just getting ahead of myself as per usual. But I'd settle for a Dell M993 as well... since CRTs in working condition are getting harder to come by these days...
That's weird, I can go way higher, pixel clock wise, on my Sunix. I can hit 2880x2160 @ 60hz, 1920x1440@90hz, and so on.
Thats incredible, and weird at the same time.
5700xt and Displayport, since that's what the sunix requires.
I think cvt might also work but can't remember. GJ in successfully troubleshootingthat really seems like the polarized car film that was installed on my fw900 and currently use and being happy with it, which really helped with blacks on a non dark room, and visualy it looks nice, like the ones on that video, even when being a bit darker than the orignal, but still with nice perceiable luminance from the screen on a non dark room, also cheap, and installation was similar as from the video.
If for some reason your connection fails to reach the Displayport HBR2 mode, you are limited to 360 MHz max pixel clock.
Read here about HDMI to VGA adapters, the only report i've seen about the Vention AFVHB is here.
I have a tip for you. Use CRU and set resolution of 1920x1440@max
Actually you need not only 72Hz for occasional 24fps material but also 71.928Hz, then also 59.94Hz and 60Hz and 75Hz to cover all possible video frame-rates if you want it perfect.
strongly disagree
maybe cones tired of flashing light react less to flickering... after longer pause from CRT's I found even ~100Hz to be unpleasant whareas now I use it regularly and image seems ok
I do not get the issue. What kicks you out of fullscreen?
Hmm nevermind I think I finally got it fixed, seemed more of a windows update, sorry about that
I attached the North American version of the FW900 service manual, but the components you are talking about probably are unchanged. Anyway I have no experience with that particular issue, but replacing enough relevant components will probably take care of it.
UPDATE.
I was brainstorming on the basis of the observations about temperature and humidity. Maybe if moisture infiltrates the spark gap that would change the breakdown voltage, but if you're in nice and arid Utah with the heater on that oughtn't be the problem. Temperature and thermal and mechanical stress on the components are usually what cause issues. So if you feel like there's an overheating problem there may well be.
Now that doesn't change what actually happens with the flyback problem which seems to be an issue of high voltage exceeding the threshold where the spark gap breaks down. Now if that happens over and over again the spark gap would necessarily fail. Maybe that's what happens in cases where the monitor pops over and over again increasingly until it does go dead. But that leaves the problem upstream where the voltage gets too high, I have no idea where that would be (among all the components that exist) and I haven't seen a proper postmortem on a failed FW900 where you would be able to find out where it went wrong. What we know is that replacing the entire D-board where the flyback sits sometimes fixes it. I haven't heard of someone dropping in a new or functioning flyback on an old board and whether that might be a long-term fix or not. Probably people like Unkle Vito know more but it may remain proprietary information until some time when it's no longer...
I did see someone on reddit talk about buying a replacement flyback for the D32 (not D24) manufactured by a German company (can't remember the name but if you search the FW900 FBT part no. it should come up). That was apparently very expensive as well (hundreds to a thousand dollars from my recollection). I think that user deleted their account later on for whatever reason also without saying whether it worked or not or if they even attempted to replace it. But supposedly the part was the same with a differing length on the anode (for the bigger D32 tube).
Edit: Part was actually for the A32 as ElBartoME states below.
If you haven't noticed already
So that was what I meant in passing by the spark gap being an easy fix if that were the only problem (not that the Sony part for it has ready replacements or that its specifications are known). There's no easy fix for these monitors, and I can understand perfectly why you would shut it down and leave it off for a week on encountering such an issue. If it were the Sunix that would be a good thing. I would go with your gut though, and if you feel like it was overheated or overworked at the time that could be a possibility. Two decades from their manufacture these guy are touchy for sure.
Oddly enough the D24 hasn't had the reputation for failing the same way or at all. You know it's the same tube (without AR film), but D24's don't seem to go bad even with a ton of hours. Now the D24 doesn't go as high and uses different deflection circuitry whereas the D32 supposedly uses the same FBT as the FW900 while having pretty much the same specs as the D24 on the typical versions (excluding A or F models which manage 1080p60 or even 72 hz as I recall). The bigger tube perhaps requires the faster FBT from a smaller screen to draw at the same rate.
So if you used the FW900 at D24 specs, would that help? Who knows. We don't have the numbers on whether the temperature and wear goes up as you increase the operating frequency. I sure don't. Lots of variables and not enough parts and sets to experiment with so eventually more and more monitors are going to drop out. What I do know is that mine was popping and all that when I had it start cold. With the heat up and the monitor toasty that wasn't happening so that's what I went with and it hadn't happened since. Then again I haven't put a lot of hours on it since then. If I run it hot all the time maybe it will end up dying sooner rather than later.
I had a problem like that with a transistor in the horizontal deflection after a mishap in WinDAS. Q501 I think:
The tube and power caps still hold charge for some period of time that I can't tell you for certain. Maybe wear rubber gloves for some minor protection. It is fine as long as you don't critically fumble and contact those areas
