24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

spacediver

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Sorry...what was the error? (Maybe something I missed upstream on the thread.)
sorry, should have been clearer :p

from the post i just quoted:

"I took photos and wrote up this experiment and the results in detail, and posted it on the forum. It was within the last 3 months. I can't find that post though! Perhaps it got deleted or something, or never made it through."
 

SH1

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sorry, should have been clearer :p

from the post i just quoted:

"I took photos and wrote up this experiment and the results in detail, and posted it on the forum. It was within the last 3 months. I can't find that post though! Perhaps it got deleted or something, or never made it through."
Thank you.

I have flashes of memories these days that I then realize must be a year old, because they take place in a restaurant or such.
 

SH1

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No evidence that someone actually will pay that much. People do this kind of crap all the time on eBay.
You could be right of course in that they might not pay.

My inclination is the opposite probably influenced in that I was foolish enough to buy an RTX 3090. Prior graphics card I bought used off eBay. This time though with Covid still raging and this sense of not knowing what tomorrow will hold, I went for it. Want to see what this Ray Tracing thing is about sooner rather than later I guess. If I were wealthy, I can see just going for it with regard to the FW900.
 

jbltecnicspro

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You could be right of course in that they might not pay.

My inclination is the opposite probably influenced in that I was foolish enough to buy an RTX 3090. Prior graphics card I bought used off eBay. This time though with Covid still raging and this sense of not knowing what tomorrow will hold, I went for it. Want to see what this Ray Tracing thing is about sooner rather than later I guess. If I were wealthy, I can see just going for it with regard to the FW900.
$3000? Sure. $35,000? Nope.
 

Enhanced Interrogator

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This seems like a solid antiglare solution for SD monitors. Is it possible this could work for our PC monitors or is our antiglare too different?

 

Strat_84

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Actually it's a neutral grey filter. It darkens the display like the original film does but any other property it may have (especially anti-reflection, but also haze) would not be specified and probably not even unintended.

It could still be a decent placeholder if it is cheap and it can be found with a transmittance of about 65%. ;)
 

Flybye

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Hey gamers.. just want to express my gratitude for this long lived thread.

So a week ago I posted asking if there was an adapter so I could run the fw900 on my 3080 ftw. Well, I just tried out the StarTech display port to VGA adapter from amazon (~$25) and my baby is back!

Guys.. on my desk right now is the a alienware ad27 IPS 1440p240hz (~$800), the latest benq TN 1080p240hz (~$450), and my fw900 that i bought from vito some 10-15 years ago (~$350) which im currently running 800p130hz. And let me just say, there is STILL no comparison! Blur busters: fw900 wins and its not even close. Colors: fw900 wins and not even close. Input lag: havent really noticed a delay from the adapter, feels as good as any "1ms" lcd panel.

VERY nice. I’m also using it with a 3080. So nice to be able to use a new GPU. 😊
 

amilic

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Hi all, first time poster.
I was recommended to check this thread out, based on a Dell P1130 CRT review on youtube by a5hun.

Initially I joined the forum to ask some questions, but between registering and now I have solved my issue! But I'll share my story for fellow Dell P1130 or like CRT owners.

Recently I got myself a Dell P1130 CRT trinitron monitor. Having done some research, I bought a Sunix DPU3000 adapter, Display port to Mini DP cable and a VGA male to male adapter.
Once paired up, I was able to get 1800x1440 @75hz out of the box and it looked great! But I was hoping to get the monitors maximum res of 2048x1536.
I tried nvidia's control panel, Custom Res Utility and even modified an old P1130 .inf file but I could not get past 1800x1440...

Having feeling pretty defeated and on the verge of accepting these results as its limit, I thought I'd try something slightly different.

In nvidia control panel, I tried something other than AUTO for the timings, and conservatively tested 1920x1440 @60hz using GTF timings; it worked!
So I upped it to 70, 75 and 80hz and they all worked. Excited, i moved on to 2048x1536 @60, 70, 75hz and they all worked! That was its limit, it failed to display 80hz.

Having said all that, I'm super happy now and can simply focus on playing some modern and retro games!

Note: please understand that this is not the be-all, end-all solution for like issues. But it is certainly an option for those experiencing such issues I faced.

Dell P1130 setup.jpg


omg; thank you! ordered with super express shipping >.> ETA Wednesday... can't wait 😄

Now... if only I can find another P1130 or equivalent in Toronto, Canada at a reasonable price as a backup unit.
Don't mind me, just getting ahead of myself as per usual. But I'd settle for a Dell M993 as well... since CRTs in working condition are getting harder to come by these days...
How did you go, did it work out for you?
 
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Enhanced Interrogator

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Excited, i moved on to 2048x1536 @60, 70, 75hz and they all worked! That was its limit, it failed to display 80hz.
That's weird, I can go way higher, pixel clock wise, on my Sunix. I can hit 2880x2160 @ 60hz, 1920x1440@90hz, and so on.

On the other, my issues is that I can't display 2048x1536 at any refresh rate. But if I got just a bit higher, like 2120x1590, I get picture. Though I do get a bug with the side-swapping issue, so I have to go up to about 2304x1728 to get a bug-free image.
 

amilic

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That's weird, I can go way higher, pixel clock wise, on my Sunix. I can hit 2880x2160 @ 60hz, 1920x1440@90hz, and so on.

On the other, my issues is that I can't display 2048x1536 at any refresh rate. But if I got just a bit higher, like 2120x1590, I get picture. Though I do get a bug with the side-swapping issue, so I have to go up to about 2304x1728 to get a bug-free image.
Thats incredible, and weird at the same time.
What graphics card and output are you using?

I havent tried any resolution beyond 2048x1536, but images look great at this res for me.
 

Enhanced Interrogator

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Thats incredible, and weird at the same time.
What graphics card and output are you using?
5700xt and Displayport, since that's what the sunix requires.

But I only go above 1920x1440 if my CPU can't maintain 90fps, or if I'm playing a game that is locked at 60fps. Like Street Fighter 5 is locked at 60fps and is 16:9, so I play that at 3200x1800 @60hz
 

spacediver

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Having feeling pretty defeated and on the verge of accepting these results as its limit, I thought I'd try something slightly different.

In nvidia control panel, I tried something other than AUTO for the timings, and conservatively tested 1920x1440 @60hz using GTF timings; it worked!
So I upped it to 70, 75 and 80hz and they all worked. Excited, i moved on to 2048x1536 @60, 70, 75hz and they all worked! That was its limit, it failed to display 80hz.

Having said all that, I'm super happy now and can simply focus on playing some modern and retro games!

Yep, gtf is the way to go :) I think cvt might also work but can't remember. GJ in successfully troubleshooting
 

ranch2

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Are there any HDMI to Displayport adapters that are capable of 300 mhz? I want to connect my laptop that only has an HDMI output to my FW900. I already have the Startech/Sunix Displayport to VGA adapters. Worst case scenario I know that the Benfei HDMI to VGA adapter could work with YCbCr but I’d like to avoid that if possible.

(to make it clear, I’m trying to find a suitable HDMI->Displayport adapter, because I want to daisychain a high-bandwidth HDMI->Displayport adapter with the Sunix or Startech DP -> VGA adapter, because based on what I’m seeing online it seems likely that there are HDMI->Displayport adapters that support >300 MHz)
 
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3dfan

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hi amilic, thanks for sharing your experience with the sunix, i also use one with nvidia card gtx 1080 ti and fw900 crt, and as you, have better results setting up resolution - refresh rate combos via nvidia custom resolution utility with gft standard, also 2048X1536 with any refresh within the monitor scan limits works without issues for me this way, only weird think is it takes longer to switch to that res, compared to other, but when it switches, it works without issues.

so far have you had any other issues with the sunix like the image shaking randomly, the bottom part of the screen being swapped in the top, or similar issue with the left or right part of the screen being swapped to the opposite side? all us dpu3000 or equivalent chip adapter user have had some of those issues, but in my case creating those combos via nvidia control panel with gft standard fixed those, but only that way, if i create some resolutions via other software like toasy custom resolution utility or use them as being detected by default by windows, those issues trends to appear.

since you are another nvidia - dpu3000 user being able to use 2048x1536, it really seems amd cards, drivers or software for some reason have more issues with this adapter than nvidia ones, as i only see amd users reporting issues with that as far as i remeber, maybe this has to do how the proprietary nvidia control panel handless those custom resolutions compared to the amd propietary one.

as for your unability to setup 2048x1536 80hz, according to nvidia control panel, that combo uses about 364 mhz pixel clock, and from my own tests, sunix dpu3000 can go up to 539mhz pixel clock, so it may not be a limit due to the adapter. but i have never used a dell p1130 so cannot talk about its limits, are you sure the dell supports that?.

i would like to ask you, did you get your sunix new or used? since this adapter seem to be discontinued long time ago, and in the sunix page it has a "(phased out)" message.


i have tested the method you used to hook your sunix to your monitor without the vga cable (which implied to remove the fw900 plastic for the sunix to fit) but in my case didn't perseive any improvements against using vga cable, maybe it rather depends on the vga cable quality and wear.



This seems like a solid antiglare solution for SD monitors. Is it possible this could work for our PC monitors or is our antiglare too different?
that really seems like the polarized car film that was installed on my fw900 and currently use and being happy with it, which really helped with blacks on a non dark room, and visualy it looks nice, like the ones on that video, even when being a bit darker than the orignal, but still with nice perceiable luminance from the screen on a non dark room, also cheap, and installation was similar as from the video.




ranch2, search for user "derupter" about adapters in this thread but as far as i remeber, the benfei is the only one from the adapter tested to achieve that. (assuming you mean hdmi to vga adapter up to 300mhz)
 
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Derupter

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In nvidia control panel, I tried something other than AUTO for the timings, and conservatively tested 1920x1440 @60hz using GTF timings; it worked!
So I upped it to 70, 75 and 80hz and they all worked. Excited, i moved on to 2048x1536 @60, 70, 75hz and they all worked! That was its limit, it failed to display 80hz
If for some reason your connection fails to reach the Displayport HBR2 mode, you are limited to 360 MHz max pixel clock.
Try with 2048x1536 79 Hz with CVT timing or other resolutions approaching that limit, if they work and you can't go over 360 MHz then that could be the problem (bad cable,connection,etc.)
Otherwise the problem is the chipset which doesn't like that resolution.
Are there any HDMI to Displayport adapters that are capable of 300 mhz? I want to connect my laptop that only has an HDMI output to my FW900. I already have the Startech/Sunix Displayport to VGA adapters. Worst case scenario I know that the Benfei HDMI to VGA adapter could work with YCbCr but I’d like to avoid that if possible.

(to make it clear, I’m trying to find a suitable HDMI->Displayport adapter, because I want to daisychain a high-bandwidth HDMI->Displayport adapter with the Sunix or Startech DP -> VGA adapter, because based on what I’m seeing online it seems likely that there are HDMI->Displayport adapters that support >300 MHz)
Read here about HDMI to VGA adapters, the only report i've seen about the Vention AFVHB is here.
About the daisy chain with adapters read here, there are several adapters on the market but the problem is to find the right one and maybe none of them will work.
There is also another problem with daisy chain, the HDMI power is 5V while displayport is 3.3V, most of those HDMI to Displayport adapter convert only the data lane so there isn't 3.3V power output from the displayport connector, in this case if you connect an adapter like the Startech DP to VGA it will never work.
With the Sunix DPU3000 adapter is another story because it has an external source for power (usb power), but looking the Rtas's report it doesn't work the same.
 
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Saabjock

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Blast from the past. I hated selling my FW900 when I moved but it weighed almost 100 pounds. Would have cost a lot to truck across country. I still have a genuine Sony user's manual for that thing.
 

amilic

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hi amilic, ....

so far have you had any other issues with the sunix like the image shaking randomly, the bottom part of the screen being swapped in the top, or similar issue with the left or right part of the screen being swapped to the opposite side? all us dpu3000 or equivalent chip adapter user have had some of those issues, but in my case creating those combos via nvidia control panel with gft standard fixed those, but only that way, if i create some resolutions via other software like toasy custom resolution utility or use them as being detected by default by windows, those issues trends to appear.

....

as for your unability to setup 2048x1536 80hz, according to nvidia control panel, that combo uses about 364 mhz pixel clock, and from my own tests, sunix dpu3000 can go up to 539mhz pixel clock, so it may not be a limit due to the adapter. but i have never used a dell p1130 so cannot talk about its limits, are you sure the dell supports that?.

i would like to ask you, did you get your sunix new or used? since this adapter seem to be discontinued long time ago, and in the sunix page it has a "(phased out)" message.

....

Hey 3dfan, thanks for your reply.
I've trimmed your post down to the questions to reply to them.

I havent noticed any of the issues you've mentioned above. I did experience one odd one, which i put down to the quirks of CRT's...?
When my desktop was at 640*480 and ran an emulator at full screen, after exiting the emulator and going back to desktop, the screen shifted to the right by almost an inch and i had to go into the monitors settings and pan in back to centre.

According to the specs of the Dell P1130 that ive found online, its official max resolution in 2048*1536 @80hz. Im not fussed that I havent acheived it, but im just as pleased to have successfully reached it @75hz.

Based on quite a few comments i've read recently, it seems i'm fortunate to have been able to purchase the Sunix brand new! I got it from amazon, which was the first place I looked after checking out sunix' website.


If for some reason your connection fails to reach the Displayport HBR2 mode, you are limited to 360 MHz max pixel clock.
Try with 2048x1536 79 Hz with CVT timing or other resolutions approaching that limit, if they work and you can't go over 360 MHz then that could be the problem (bad cable,connection,etc.)
Otherwise the problem is the chipset which doesn't like that resolution.

....

Thanks for the tip Derupter, i'll keep it in mind should I try again in the future.
For now, i'm content with 2048*1536 @75hz.
 
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XoR_

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For now, i'm content with 2048*1536 @75hz.
I have a tip for you. Use CRU and set resolution of 1920x1440@max
Much better for 1080p videos as you avoid upscaling. 4K videos should also downscale better.
 

Enhanced Interrogator

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I have a tip for you. Use CRU and set resolution of 1920x1440@max
Much better for 1080p videos as you avoid upscaling. 4K videos should also downscale better.

I just make a custom resolution of 1920x1200 @ 72hz for 1080p material, and 2560x1600 @ 72hz for 1440p and 2160p video. No need to run fullscreen resolutions when you're watching 16:9 material.

I just give the resolutions a little more cushion with 16:10 because of the edge geometry issues on my Lacie.
 
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XoR_

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I just make a custom resolution of 1920x1200 @ 72hz for 1080p material, and 2560x1600 @ 72hz for 1440p and 2160p video. No need to run fullscreen resolutions when you're watching 16:9 material.

I just give the resolutions a little more cushion with 16:10 because of the edge geometry issues on my Lacie.
Actually you need not only 72Hz for occasional 24fps material but also 71.928Hz, then also 59.94Hz and 60Hz and 75Hz to cover all possible video frame-rates if you want it perfect.
And also need to worry about used video players as something like web browser is just not capable of syncing stuff correctly and if you have synced image and then it misses its timing then it is very noticeable.
25fps content plays nicely on 100Hz video mode with madVR but in web browser the same video has visible occasional frame irregularities which are very distracting. Also when synced perfectly the image quadrupling is very visible. When I switch mode to 107Hz then it looks good everywhere and any video with any frame rate. Of course on some panning shots you can notice some small judder but it is much less noticeable than playing ~24fps content on 60Hz monitor and it was never really that distracting. Heck, some people prefer it for movies even on sample&hold monitors which do not have image doubling/tripling/etc issues at all.

Besides, let's be honest, 72Hz on FW900 looks flickery as hell. It has too short persistence phosphors for such modes.
 
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I hope this isnt a bother to anyone but does anyone have a specific link to best take advantage of CRU? I finally decided to join in and start using it.
 

XoR_

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strongly disagree
maybe cones tired of flashing light react less to flickering... after longer pause from CRT's I found even ~100Hz to be unpleasant whareas now I use it regularly and image seems ok
try and see if you can tolerate 48Hz 🤩
I did run it for minute or two yesterday and still felt my eyes being raped an hour or so later :dead:
 
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So I got CRU installed and prepped and its absolutely amazing, the only problem is that it kicks me out of fullscreen in games after a few hours of playing. Any possible suggestions for what I should do?
 

XoR_

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So I got CRU installed and prepped and its absolutely amazing, the only problem is that it kicks me out of fullscreen in games after a few hours of playing. Any possible suggestions for what I should do?
I do not get the issue. What kicks you out of fullscreen?
 
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Hi, I have an issue with FW900 that was working fine for many years.

After power lose he is not working propellery. Does anyone have faced similar issue and where to look? Have experience with electronic but no experience with CRT screens.

When cold bot its flickering with green mask. To the most saturated point and turn off with blinking orange diode.

When run with black screen it is making same green flickering mask with clearly visible hourglass lines but I am menage to make him not turn off.

At this point its working almost fine. Playing videos, browsing internet. From time to time have this green flickering mask for a moment. When turn off from power source after warm up he is kinda working fine.

Why fine? When I started fast fps game after 6 minutes he started flickering green and lost hes "warmup" color settings. The information that You have to wait before image restoration even that monitor has been working for 6h straight? The white image is red saturated and after 5 min he has correct colors and "image restoration" ready.

I have fully take a part CRT monitor to clean it but never this one.

No luck with CRT service around my place.

I suspect the green channel driver transistor does anyone has service manual for this board?
 
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aeliusg

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Hi, I have an issue with FW900 that was working fine for many years.

After power lose he is not working propellery. Does anyone have faced similar issue and where to look? Have experience with electronic but no experience with CRT screens.

When cold bot its flickering with green mask. To the most saturated point and turn off with blinking orange diode.

When run with black screen it is making same green flickering mask with clearly visible hourglass lines but I am menage to make him not turn off.

At this point its working almost fine. Playing videos, browsing internet. From time to time have this green flickering mask for a moment. When turn off from power source after warm up he is kinda working fine.

Why fine? When I started fast fps game after 6 minutes he started flickering green and lost hes "warmup" color settings. The information that You have to wait before image restoration even that monitor has been working for 6h straight? The white image is red saturated and after 5 min he has correct colors and "image restoration" ready.

I have fully take a part CRT monitor to clean it but never this one.

No luck with CRT service around my place.

I suspect the green channel driver transistor does anyone has service manual for this board?
I attached the North American version of the FW900 service manual, but the components you are talking about probably are unchanged. Anyway I have no experience with that particular issue, but replacing enough relevant components will probably take care of it.
 

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Strat_84

Limp Gawd
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The chances to fix an issue with random components replacement are low, plus it's quite a waste of money and all the components may not be available anymore. For a repair to be effective, it's definitively required to understand electronics and the specific circuitry you're talking about.

If an issue is intermittent, it's also likely the problem comes from a bad solder or contact somewhere.
 

amilic

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hi amilic, snip...

so far have you had any other issues with the sunix like the image shaking randomly, the bottom part of the screen being swapped in the top, or similar issue with the left or right part of the screen being swapped to the opposite side? all us dpu3000 or equivalent chip adapter user have had some of those issues, but in my case creating those combos via nvidia control panel with gft standard fixed those, but only that way, if i create some resolutions via other software like toasy custom resolution utility or use them as being detected by default by windows, those issues trends to appear.
UPDATE.

Ive started experiencing the screen hanging on black when transitioning from game back to desktop (desktop res is 1600x1200) when the game resolution is higher than the desktops. I'd have to reset my pc.
However to get around this, i set the desktop res to the games desired resolution.
 

3dfan

Limp Gawd
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i dont remember having that issue with my dpu3000, however i remember having other issues when trying to use a game whose aspect ratio is different from desktop and force me to first switch to the game aspect ratio res and then launch it, as you mentioned.

so maybe you find helpfull a software i been using that allows to do that switch automatically when launching the desired game, and then switch back to the usual desktop res when exiting the game without having to do all the steps manually everytime you want to launch the specific game, its called "nircmdc.exe".
i taked about it here and described how i use it:

https://hardforum.com/threads/24-wi...-ebay-arrived-comments.952788/post-1044353190
 

Foe-hammer

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This seems like a solid antiglare solution for SD monitors. Is it possible this could work for our PC monitors or is our antiglare too different?


Still just your normal anti-glare generic film. Wish there was a thicker film that offered the original protection and anti-static properties.
 
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Foe-hammer

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I was brainstorming on the basis of the observations about temperature and humidity. Maybe if moisture infiltrates the spark gap that would change the breakdown voltage, but if you're in nice and arid Utah with the heater on that oughtn't be the problem. Temperature and thermal and mechanical stress on the components are usually what cause issues. So if you feel like there's an overheating problem there may well be.

Now that doesn't change what actually happens with the flyback problem which seems to be an issue of high voltage exceeding the threshold where the spark gap breaks down. Now if that happens over and over again the spark gap would necessarily fail. Maybe that's what happens in cases where the monitor pops over and over again increasingly until it does go dead. But that leaves the problem upstream where the voltage gets too high, I have no idea where that would be (among all the components that exist) and I haven't seen a proper postmortem on a failed FW900 where you would be able to find out where it went wrong. What we know is that replacing the entire D-board where the flyback sits sometimes fixes it. I haven't heard of someone dropping in a new or functioning flyback on an old board and whether that might be a long-term fix or not. Probably people like Unkle Vito know more but it may remain proprietary information until some time when it's no longer...

I did see someone on reddit talk about buying a replacement flyback for the D32 (not D24) manufactured by a German company (can't remember the name but if you search the FW900 FBT part no. it should come up). That was apparently very expensive as well (hundreds to a thousand dollars from my recollection). I think that user deleted their account later on for whatever reason also without saying whether it worked or not or if they even attempted to replace it. But supposedly the part was the same with a differing length on the anode (for the bigger D32 tube).

Edit: Part was actually for the A32 as ElBartoME states below.

If you haven't noticed already ;) it's hard to get a straight answer on the pressing issue for the FW900 which is that it fails dead because of the flyback and associated components. The flyback itself is unobtainable apart from that D32 replacement I mentioned which is unfortunately also uber expensive even if there are parts on hand still. The D-board has a bunch of components and it's hard to tell which one is bad if it's another and we don't know if the failure takes out the flyback when it does happen or the other way around or if it's isolated.

So that was what I meant in passing by the spark gap being an easy fix if that were the only problem (not that the Sony part for it has ready replacements or that its specifications are known). There's no easy fix for these monitors, and I can understand perfectly why you would shut it down and leave it off for a week on encountering such an issue. If it were the Sunix that would be a good thing. I would go with your gut though, and if you feel like it was overheated or overworked at the time that could be a possibility. Two decades from their manufacture these guy are touchy for sure.

Oddly enough the D24 hasn't had the reputation for failing the same way or at all. You know it's the same tube (without AR film), but D24's don't seem to go bad even with a ton of hours. Now the D24 doesn't go as high and uses different deflection circuitry whereas the D32 supposedly uses the same FBT as the FW900 while having pretty much the same specs as the D24 on the typical versions (excluding A or F models which manage 1080p60 or even 72 hz as I recall). The bigger tube perhaps requires the faster FBT from a smaller screen to draw at the same rate.

So if you used the FW900 at D24 specs, would that help? Who knows. We don't have the numbers on whether the temperature and wear goes up as you increase the operating frequency. I sure don't. Lots of variables and not enough parts and sets to experiment with so eventually more and more monitors are going to drop out. What I do know is that mine was popping and all that when I had it start cold. With the heat up and the monitor toasty that wasn't happening so that's what I went with and it hadn't happened since. Then again I haven't put a lot of hours on it since then. If I run it hot all the time maybe it will end up dying sooner rather than later.

Update...

My FW900 has been working great at 1920x1200 @60 Hz. BUT when I increase the resolution past 1920x1200 or increase the refresh rate over 60 Hz, the image starts getting unstable again, and if left too long the smell of electrical burn is present.

Any thoughts on what is happening?
 

aeliusg

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Update...

My FW900 has been working great at 1920x1200 @60 Hz. BUT when I increase the resolution past 1920x1200 or increase the refresh rate over 60 Hz, the image starts getting unstable again, and if left too long the smell of electrical burn is present.

Any thoughts on what is happening?
I had a problem like that with a transistor in the horizontal deflection after a mishap in WinDAS. Q501 I think:

1617511254758.png


The monitor would work until the transistor got too hot and completely shorted out with the burning smell being the first sign. Before I'd had that all figured out, I let it go until the burning was palpable again and then opened the case up (after turning it off and unplugging it, of course), took out the board and sniffed out that it was that one component that was burning up (extremely hot to the touch also).

I think it was a mistake or something in setting the mode during a geometry adjustment in WinDAS that caused it to initially degrade, with the overheating behavior thereafter a symptom of using higher scan rates. Sounds kind of like your problem, but I don't have any higher system knowledge to be able to tell you for certain what's going on. I literally sniffed out which one was burning, replaced it, and that was that.
 

Foe-hammer

Limp Gawd
Joined
Feb 1, 2006
Messages
185
I had a problem like that with a transistor in the horizontal deflection after a mishap in WinDAS. Q501 I think:

View attachment 345030

The monitor would work until the transistor got too hot and completely shorted out with the burning smell being the first sign. Before I'd had that all figured out, I let it go until the burning was palpable again and then opened the case up (after turning it off and unplugging it, of course), took out the board and sniffed out that it was that one component that was burning up (extremely hot to the touch also).

I think it was a mistake or something in setting the mode during a geometry adjustment in WinDAS that caused it to initially degrade, with the overheating behavior thereafter a symptom of using higher scan rates. Sounds kind of like your problem, but I don't have any higher system knowledge to be able to tell you for certain what's going on. I literally sniffed out which one was burning, replaced it, and that was that.

Excellent info! So in your situation was the burning smell a product of using higher scan rates, and did the image start to become unstable prior to the burning smell?

I think I'll try finding the bad transistor by sniffing it out as you did, but I'm a little worried about opening the monitor right after it was on because it holds a charge well after it is turned off and unplugged, right?
 

aeliusg

Gawd
Joined
Jan 14, 2016
Messages
795
Excellent info! So in your situation was the burning smell a product of using higher scan rates, and did the image start to become unstable prior to the burning smell?

I think I'll try finding the bad transistor by sniffing it out as you did, but I'm a little worried about opening the monitor right after it was on because it holds a charge well after it is turned off and unplugged, right?
The tube and power caps still hold charge for some period of time that I can't tell you for certain. Maybe wear rubber gloves for some minor protection. It is fine as long as you don't critically fumble and contact those areas
1617551095848.png
1617551140213.png

The MOSFETs are located across from the FBT at the bottom of the D-board when it is assembled in place.
 

Foe-hammer

Limp Gawd
Joined
Feb 1, 2006
Messages
185
The tube and power caps still hold charge for some period of time that I can't tell you for certain. Maybe wear rubber gloves for some minor protection. It is fine as long as you don't critically fumble and contact those areas View attachment 345081View attachment 345082
The MOSFETs are located across from the FBT at the bottom of the D-board when it is assembled in place.

Thanks for the help!

Also, in your situation was the burning smell a product of using higher scan rates, and did the image start to become unstable prior to the burning smell?
 
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