For retro consoler/computers PVM monitior is must have.good luck with your pvm's , havent seen one in my life, but after reading a bit more about those, seems are very good for retro games and consoles specialy from a resolution picture quality perspective.
What you're describing sounds very similar to the artifacts of an old HDMI to VGA adapter I used a few weeks ago. After getting a newer and simpler HDMI to VGA adapter that doesn't require its own seperate power, the artifacts completely went away. Also, geometry problems seem to be universal among adapters. I could only get my CRT to automatically resize per resolution perfectly with the analog vga output of my old Sony VAIO laptop. I have to manually resize per set resolution dimensions with my converters.Hi guys and so glad to have found this place - I'm the happy owner of a Sony CPD-G500 with a very strong case of G2 and color drift. I have all the required setup, have already been able to connect to the screen and lower the G2 voltage with WinDAS and was able to recover from the greenish black tint, but still I would like to undergo a proper WPB using spacediver's tutorial (got a i1DPro) but got a few questions before doing so:
- I have very limited technical knowledge about CRT and electronics in general, and before I undergo this whole process I'm quite concerned my screen is a ticking bomb with a worse problem. Spacediver says "Follow the instructions, using a tape measure. Be sure to measure carefully to avoid parallax errors. Ideally, you'll have already performed a geometry and convergence adjustment prior to a WPB, so you may not need to adjust anything." and this is where I'm concerned, as my geometry is all off and I feel like the screen is acting really weird. Using the "auto" feature to somewhat have the picture resized after a resolution change, it's stupidly off. Like half of the screen outside of the viewing areas, distorted corners and absolutely 0 parallels. It's like the beam has completely messed up boundaries. Going into higher resolutions and refresh rates, things seems to get worse, with extremely "round" corners/distorted fisheye effects. Playing with the geometry controls I spend a stupid amount of time trying to get it right and can somewhat manage it, but even then I'm starting from such a weird picture that achieving perfectly straight lines at the edges and proper corners is almost impossible. Once it's set, it's looking pretty alright though...but sometimes switching between resolutions it's like my previous settings are lost and I have to adjust again (and here again, not a simple fine-tuning, I mean a "play with all geometry controls for 10 minutes" kind of job).
Basically should I be concerned of a hardware failure waiting to happen, and/or are there guides I should follow prior to the WPB?
I've managed to successfully hook up to the monitor with a CP2102 usb-serial adapter after registering the msflxgrd.ocx file and setting the compartibility to win95 in the windas.exe properties.It's definitively a case of G2/color drift. Just perform a white point balance procedure and it'll probably be like new.
Well, I guess I have more incentive to work on a video previously planned to be about adapter artifacts P:XoR is right, due to the nature of the signal itself it would be quite surprising to have the geometry of the display modified by an adapter.
G2 Hex edit is rubbish, don't use that ugly trick. There are other values related to brightness limitations set in background according to the G2 when the procedure is followed correctly. You DON'T have them properly set when done manually.I've managed to successfully hook up to the monitor with a CP2102 usb-serial adapter after registering the msflxgrd.ocx file and setting the compartibility to win95 in the windas.exe properties.
I have not managed to get it working through VM with serial port/usb passthrough.
G2 hex edit did the trick, but it still needs a lot of white point adjustments. Will try today.
I tried to follow the full set of windas calibration tools but I'm getting regular errors and disconnections making the whole process tedious...I'm using a Prolific serial adapter directly connected to a HP laptop running WinXP SP3 (tried several OSes and that was by far the most stable) but still, following the full set of calibration tools in windas is a real pain. In the middle of a calibration job it will start reporting not being able to connect to the monitor, which is easily fixed by disconnecting and reconnecting the USB adapter, but the process is still fubar and you have to start it over. Extremely annoying. What is you guys experience with that and any tips to make it more stable? Cheers
So.. I'm trying to to the WPB adjustment right now, and the damn thing keeps shutting down with two-times blinking LED. The "failure" menu in the windas says it's an OVP - overvoltage protection?G2 Hex edit is rubbish, don't use that ugly trick. There are other values related to brightness limitations set in background according to the G2 when the procedure is followed correctly. You DON'T have them properly set when done manually.
What you need to do is the full white point balance procedure, with a colorimeter. That'll fix color drift at the same time.
So.. I'm trying to to the WPB adjustment right now, and the damn thing keeps shutting down with two-times blinking LED. The "failure" menu in the windas says it's an OVP - overvoltage protection?
Seems like something is bad either on the monitor boards (caps?), or the tube is just so badly worn out. I could hardly believe it's the tube as it has no scratches at all, does not seem like the monitor had a lot of hours
The monitor shuts down on the next step after the cutoff max adjustment, the minumum brightness I could get there is 22 cd/m2.
Basically B_BKG_B_MAX is so high by default that I need to turn it all the way down to 0 and turn the R and C to ~200. I'm using the full black test pattern for that step.So what you're saying is, you're starting ABOVE what the target is and are trying to LOWER your cutoff to match, and on the way it says "nope!" And shuts down? Just trying to get an understanding of what's going on.
I had something like this happen when I tried to do another WPB on Windows 10 recently. Decided not to mess with it and reverted to the previous .dat backup, and did image restoration instead. Picture is still excellent. The times I did do it successfully were on Windows 7 using whatever .dll you needed to register and compatibility mode for Windows XP SP2. I also had the room super dark like spacediver recommended in the guide. So a few variables were off there along with the difference of maybe a few hundred hours on the set. No solution for ya but there's some more info. This was an FW900 by the way, not sure which one you're using. If the G2 fix works for now I would hold off until you can find a decent solution where your monitor isn't shutting down. Mine never did but it hit the ABL and was overbright. So I don't know what the issue is exactly here.Basacally B_BKG_B_MAX is so high by default that I need to turn it all the way down to 0 and turn the R and C to ~200. I'm using the full black test pattern for that step.
Doing to makes the monitor too bright at the next step so it loses focus and after like 3-5 seconds it turns off.
The problem lies in the fact that the green level is very high.
The green G_BKG_B_MAX slider doe not affect anything at all until its set to 180. Lower than that - color balance is still too green, but the green level does not lower if I lower the slider.
It's an FW900.If the G2 fix works for now I would hold off until you can find a decent solution where your monitor isn't shutting down. Mine never did but it hit the ABL and was overbright. So I don't know what the issue is exactly here.
Looking for bad solders can't do any harm and it might be the issue indeed. Regarding shorting Q401, it won't fix anything unless the transistor failed (not impossible but very unlikely).It's an FW900.
About the colors - it's just a bit less bad looking with G2 hex edit. Not really usable, especially when compared to my calibrated 22b4's.
I've just found a couple of ideas I think I should check on this FW900. 1 and 2.
I'll give it a couple of days to discharge. Hopefully I will try to check on that board mentioned in the first link on the weekend.
Glad this helped !well, I must admit I was really doubtful it would make a difference but downloaded your WinDAS archive and ran the windas.exe at the root (it's pretty messy, there are like 4 different installs in different folders and subfolders ) and to my surprise it's been super stable, didn't have a single occurrence of the connection issues I used to have all the time! Looking good, thank you very much
If you do one of these, you have to do all of them, and in the correct order. You also have to display the exact resolution requested.what's you guys experience and/or opinion with the various calibration procedures? Would it be worth to try and do them all, does it even make sense? I'm asking for example in regards to the different alignment procedures...
- Alignment at VDC Mode
- Alignment at Max Frequency
- Alignment at Mid Frequency
- Alignment at Min Frequency
- Prime mode Adjustment
Alignment at VDC Mode and Max Frequency I've been through, and it's pretty easy as the "Manual SG Parameters" timings and resolution it requests are perfectly correct out of the box when I set my screen to 1600x1200@85 and check timings with PowerStrip.
Mid Frequency it requests a 1600x900 resolution that my Voodoo3 doesn't support. So I switched to a GeForce4 I had laying around, and it does support it, but the timings requested by WinDAS are different than those reported by PowerStrip...I am not sure how important it is. Does it have to be 100% perfect or is "close enough" good enough? Does it even make sense to calibrate the screen on that weird resolution I'll never use?
I'm not completely sure of what your convergence issue is (a picture would make things much clearer), but if this is what I think this is, that might be fixed only by moving the deflection yoke (the big coil which is the closest to the front of the tube, it is held in place by 4 rubber wedges stuck with silicone) or moving/adding magnetic strips. IF this can be fixed. Are all these still properly attached ?Also I have a convergence issue in the top right and bottom right corners, but my CPD-G500 apparently doesn't support DCnv (greyed out), and the convergence controls are only horizontal, vertical, top, bottom. Problem is that with those controls, I can only "fix" the convergence by making it worse on the other side, or make it average on both sides...not ideal.
As usual thanks for any help or insight
Thanks again for the tips, but none worked.1°) when you used Windas, did you make sure to select the profile matching exactly your screen model ?
2°) Try to reset the settings of the monitor to defaults before getting into Windas for WPB (of course, if you didn't do it previously save your original settings with Windas before doing anything). This reset can be done holding the reset button of the monitor for several seconds. That will erase every resolution profile and anything possibly weird stored in the monitor's memory.
The only missing component is R463 and seems to have been replaced by that red resistor. Given the ugly job I'd be more worried about tracks broken in the vicinity of the pads meant for R463, or C436 being cracked . Who is seriously stupid enough to solder a through-hole component on a fragile populated SMD pad, when there is an unused hole connected to the very same track right next ?!Thanks again for the tips, but none worked.
Close inspectation of the A-board revealed some missing components and some kind of a hack job.
Indeed, that and the SMD capacitor C436, on the picture it looks like it's soldered on one end but lost its metal coating on the other end (in other words, if this is really the case it's dead).It's a 120kOhm resistor, the manual says 100kOhm, so that could be a part of the issue