24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

datspike

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60hz in video games gives you a headache too?
I have not tested the 60 hz on a CRT in games as I rarely play anything other than Apex, but I've once accidentally run 60 Hz strobed on my LG 24GM79B in Apex and it was just as bad as desktop at < 85 Hz on a CRT.
Maybe I'm just weird, I dont want to start a war here :)

I think that TV's don't flicker as much because:

1. The resolution was far lower than PC monitors, so you don't need to draw as much dots in a single shot.
2. Most of the time you'd never see a true 60hz progressive signal unless running at half the vertical resolution of 60i (otherwise known as 240p). At that low a resolution, you wouldn't see hardly any flicker - even on large screens.
I really like those arguments, may very well be the truth.
 

Derupter

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BTW, I got the Delock 62967 and it's capable of just 340 Mhz, also has a short dp connector without a lock. Worse than a ANX6212 swapped Vention in every way, eh. Guess I'll try to sell it.
And my ANX9847 shipment got canceled. Seem's like I would not be able to test a Vention with ANX9847, sorry Derupter

I've got 6 Vention HBFBB and 6 ANX6212 shipped to me, so testing them will be interesting at least.

The first prototype of 62967 was better, both the connector and the adapter housing, 340 MHz is also the speed of it.
About the ANX9847 test you can try to swap the chip from the 62967 to the HBFBB.
I think that the electrical diagram of the ANX9833 is like that of the 9847-6211-6212 but there are different PCB design and i think that the one of your Vention HBFBB is better than Delock 62967 (wider traces of the main lanes and probably a better ground and power plane)
Wow 6 Vention HBFBB and 6 ANX6212, maybe some users might be interested in having one of your "special" modded adapter capable of 360 MHz.
 

XoR_

[H]ard|Gawd
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Games are fine at 60hz, after all, we all watched 60hz CRT TV's during our childhood. 60hz only bothers me when browsing the web and stuff like that.
And besides scanline sync, vsync input lag can also be reduced by capping frame rate to a a few thousandths of a frame below the refresh rate, and also using Nvidia and AMD's new "low latency" modes that reduce CPU buffer time. Not saying 60hz is the way to go for competitive games, but I played all of Control at 1792x1344 and it was great.
And in DX9 games, you can use GeDoSaTo to delay CPU buffer time to a fraction of the overall frame time.
I do not say 60Hz is unusable but that it is not worth it and it is better to throw your money at higher refresh rate at expense of resolution, no matter if it is pixel clock, horizontal sync rate or even GPU performance.
There is sweet spot for these CRTs and it is imho around 900-1000 lines.
 
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datspike

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Wow 6 Vention HBFBB and 6 ANX6212, maybe some users might be interested in having one of your "special" modded adapter capable of 360 MHz.
3 of them are going to my friends, but the other ones will probably be up on ebay for something like 20$ plus shipping.
I'm replacing the chips now by the way, will test them in the evening.
 

Enhanced Interrogator

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I do not say 60Hz is unusable but that it is not worth it and it is better to throw your money at higher refresh rate at expense of resolution, no matter if it is pixel clock, horizontal sync rate or even GPU performance.
There is sweet spot for these CRTs and it is imho around 900-1000 lines.

Some games are capped at 60fps, so you gotta run at 60hz if you want judder-free motion
 

datspike

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3 of them are going to my friends, but the other ones will probably be up on ebay for something like 20$ plus shipping.
I'm replacing the chips now by the way, will test them in the evening.
Wow 6 Vention HBFBB and 6 ANX6212, maybe some users might be interested in having one of your "special" modded adapter capable of 360 MHz.
So.. Guess I was just lucky with my first 360 Mhz capable modded adapter:
I've sent one adapter to one of my friends and I don't even know if it's working, ouch.
2 of the adapter are not working. I will reflow the chips sometime soon.
3 other adapters are each different, and capable of 355, 340 and 335 Mhz.

So the only profits of such a mod over getting the delock is a questionably better PCB, an ability to bin the ANX chips (330Mhz is already plenty imo, so that's not actually a pro), and a locking DP connector.
Plus the obvious ability to get a high quality adapter for cheap if the delock is not available in your country.
 
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Derupter

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So it's like the ANX9847, some chip are better than others, max pixel clock of my eight samples:
340-342-345-346-346-347-354-355
Another thing is that 62967 doesn't work with all the video cards and when this happen the DP cable must be replaced.
It would be interesting to know if the same thing happen with the HBFBB, an adapter that works on your computer but who stop at 180 MHz on another would prove this.
 

datspike

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So it's like the ANX9847, some chip are better than others, max pixel clock of my eight samples:
340-342-345-346-346-347-354-355
Another thing is that 62967 doesn't work with all the video cards and when this happen the DP cable must be replaced.
It would be interesting to know if the same thing happen with the HBFBB, an adapter that works on your computer but who stop at 180 MHz on another would prove this.
The 62967 connector is short, it's barely working on my RX 5700, I have to plug it VERY hard and snug into the port. But the HBFBB DP connector is standard length and has a lock, so I assume it would work properly on every card. I will test it on my friends pc with a 1080 Ti tomorrow. Well, more like 3 of them which I have working.
 
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Interesting. So far I've been able to successfully use WinDAS on a sony FW900, the HP rebrand, an IBM P275, and a Dell P1130. So I'm guessing mine isn't barebones by default (tho I understand u made yours barebones intentionally).

I know this post is 6 years old but can you please run me through the process of WinDASing your IBM P275? Mine doesnt seem to like it. When i hook it up to the USB To RS232 TTL UART PL2303HX, the monitor stays on standby. If I hook it up while its displaying an image, WinDAS still makes no connection. I tried 3 different WinDAS copies. I tried XP and 7. I put the .ocx in system/system32/syswow64 and reg'd it. Selected the correct com port. SG manual. It just won't connect. Its a shame because the monitor looks great besides the high g2 voltage.
 

spacediver

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I know this post is 6 years old but can you please run me through the process of WinDASing your IBM P275? Mine doesnt seem to like it. When i hook it up to the USB To RS232 TTL UART PL2303HX, the monitor stays on standby. If I hook it up while its displaying an image, WinDAS still makes no connection. I tried 3 different WinDAS copies. I tried XP and 7. I put the .ocx in system/system32/syswow64 and reg'd it. Selected the correct com port. SG manual. It just won't connect. Its a shame because the monitor looks great besides the high g2 voltage.

Hm, have you connected the wires in the correct order?

My notes say: black red green white (top to bottom)

And did you get the drivers for the PL2303HX?
 
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Hm, have you connected the wires in the correct order?

My notes say: black red green white (top to bottom)

And did you get the drivers for the PL2303HX?

Yes I used PL2303_CheckChipVersion_v1006 to verify the chip, then used PL2303_Prolific_DriverInstaller_v1200 (supposedly used in all windows besides 10). I also have PL2303-W10RS3RS4-DCHU-DriverSetup_v1192_20180503 but apparently its for windows 10 only. IN terms of the wires, I tried Black, Red, White, Green and Black, Red, Green, White. Of course the first is directly how they are labeled(even inside the usb). I also tried the default windows 7 drivers for it. Im really at a loss.
 

spacediver

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You said the monitor stays on standby.

Is it being fed a video signal by your main PC, or are the only connections to the monitor the main power cable and the TTL connector?
 
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You said the monitor stays on standby.

Is it being fed a video signal by your main PC, or are the only connections to the monitor the main power cable and the TTL connector?

I tried 3 combos. an xbox 360 via VGA, from the same PC I am working from(dual monitor), and no inputs
 
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So at what point does the monitor go into standby?
basically if its hooked up to the USB To RS232 TTL UART PL2303HX before being turned on, it doesnt come out of standby, and the power switch seems to do nothing. I have got some weird behavior by fucking around. I hooked it up while it was on(dual monitor mode), shut the monitor off, and turned it back on. When it turned back on it had a severe rainbow thing going on, but it was uniform. Also, sometimes if I unplug the USB, the second I do the monitors light shuts off, or sometimes turns green etc etc. If you are at a loss don't sweat it. Maybe I could try a diff cable.
 

spacediver

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Just do this.

Hook up your monitor as you normally would, turn on your PC and the monitor (i.e. so you can see windows desktop on it).

Then connect the USB-TTL cable to a laptop, or your main pc.

Then run WinDAS from the device that is connected to the monitor via the USB-TTL cable.

btw have you seen my WinDAS WPB guide? If not, take a look at the workflow diagram that shows how things should be set up (although if you just want to adjust G2 voltage, and aren't concerned about properly calibrating it, you won't need a colorimeter or a laptop).

Also try a different USB port (so long as it maps from somewhere between COM1 and COM4), and then make sure you choose the correct port in WinDAS.

Also, in WinDAS, make sure you select the right model for your monitor.
 
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Just do this.

Hook up your monitor as you normally would, turn on your PC and the monitor (i.e. so you can see windows desktop on it).

Then connect the USB-TTL cable to a laptop, or your main pc.

Then run WinDAS from the device that is connected to the monitor via the USB-TTL cable.

btw have you seen my WinDAS WPB guide? If not, take a look at the workflow diagram that shows how things should be set up (although if you just want to adjust G2 voltage, and aren't concerned about properly calibrating it, you won't need a colorimeter or a laptop).

Also try a different USB port (so long as it maps from somewhere between COM1 and COM4), and then make sure you choose the correct port in WinDAS.

Also, in WinDAS, make sure you select the right model for your monitor.


thank you for trying to help me. i did try all that. didn't work sadly. i have a theory that it might be locked out until you reach the warm up period. however just now i was fucking with contrast, brightness, and color return. got a picture im happy with. so ill have to tackle this in the future. :( (when i reached the warm up period I had already unhooked everything)
 

jbltecnicspro

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thank you for trying to help me. i did try all that. didn't work sadly. i have a theory that it might be locked out until you reach the warm up period. however just now i was fucking with contrast, brightness, and color return. got a picture im happy with. so ill have to tackle this in the future. :( (when i reached the warm up period I had already unhooked everything)

It doesn't matter if the monitor is warming up or not. WinDAS should still be able to access the monitor. Something isn't right with your connection or something...
 

spacediver

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agreed. It could be the cable, or something downstream of the service port on the monitor (within the monitor I mean).

Maybe laptop?

At this point, my expertise runs dry.

If I were in your position, I'd try running a test like this or something to eliminate sources external to the monitor.
 
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It doesn't matter if the monitor is warming up or not. WinDAS should still be able to access the monitor. Something isn't right with your connection or something...
only reason I thought that is because the monitor locks you out from using color return until its reached a "warm up period". I remembering hearing something about sonys having bad eeproms that should be dumped and replaced asap but i doubt thats it.

also forgot to mention: i tried enabling and disabling legacy usb in bios. there was some serial port settings in bios but i didnt know what they meant so i left them default.
 

jbltecnicspro

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only reason I thought that is because the monitor locks you out from using color return until its reached a "warm up period". I remembering hearing something about sonys having bad eeproms that should be dumped and replaced asap but i doubt thats it.

also forgot to mention: i tried enabling and disabling legacy usb in bios. there was some serial port settings in bios but i didnt know what they meant so i left them default.

Ah okay, that seems logical, so I can't blame you. :) No, if you power your monitor on you should immediately be able to access it through WinDAS.

Color return... I'm still not sure what the function actually does. But once you calibrate it using WinDAS you should never need to touch it again. Do you have a multimeter that can test whether or not you're getting signals from your adapter?
 

suiken_2mieu

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Hey guys, what is the going price for an FW-900? There's one locally that's $2000 and that seems crazy.

From the pictures, geometry seems fine, but I'd like to know what I should offer this person.
 

XoR_

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Hey guys, what is the going price for an FW-900? There's one locally that's $2000 and that seems crazy.
This is crazy
It is not worth it that much
Better CRTs are available, albeit little smaller and more squarish, for almost free

I gave less than $100 for mine few years ago. It was cheap imho.
I think $500 is the upper limit for something that does not even need G2 adjustment and is in mind condition.
 

Wirysage

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Does anyone find that their text gets more blurry on a Sunnix DPU3000 at say 98hz but clearer at 85hz both at 1600x1200 ? Why does this happen?
 

Petrasescu_Lucian

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Does anyone find that their text gets more blurry on a Sunnix DPU3000 at say 98hz but clearer at 85hz both at 1600x1200 ? Why does this happen?
The output of the DPU3000 is generaly more blurry than that of an analog output from a video card (i.e. GTX 980). It's normal for a CRT to lose focus (clarity) as you increase the refresh rate at the same resolution. Nonetheless it should still be relatively sharp even at the highest refresh rate. If it isn't, then either the focus or convergence need readjusment or the tube is worn out and there's nothing you can do.
 

3dfan

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i personaly dont note difference on output quality text on dpu3000 vs native analog cards i have compare against: (gtx 760, and onboard integrated intel hd 4600 analog output) are you two sure you have set your mentioned resolutions properly, and the monitor is not using them windows scaled instead of switching to them (by a monitor internal clicking switch) i ask because when you switch to another resolutions by windows scaling, (the monitor does not makes its characteristinc clicking switch) the text is way notable blury.

what i do is to create all the resolutions i use via nvidia control panel custom resolutions with GTF standard also worked with custom resolution utility with "crt standard" and make sure the monitor switch to them when requested by internal clicking and 1 sec black screen.
i agree at some point is normal to have a bit blurrier text at higher refresh rates (not notable in games for me though).

talking about dpu3000, i want to tell that i started to use mine everyday about 15 days ago with an asus rog strix gaming gtx 1080 ti i recently got used and to my surprise i have had absolutely 0 issues so far with the sunix on all the resolutions and refreshes i use, which are: 1920x1200@60,90hz 1920x1080@60,80,90hz 1280x960@55,60hz 2048x1536@60hz, 1680x1050@60,90hz so no screen flick, no image swaping verticaly or horizontally, no lost connection etc issues the dpu3000 is known to get, i dont know if i have been lucky or what, because in my early test with dpu3000 i posted about a year ago with a gtx 760 msi, i also had many mentioned issues with about a week of testing many users have had as well,
also i have not needed to connect the dpu3000 power to a smarthphone or similar power adapter as some of us suspected was they key of some of the dpu3000 issues. i just currently have mine powererd via motherboard USB3 port.

i suspect the reason of this can be:

-dpu3000 seems to work better with nvidia cards than amd ones as some people on this topic have reported
-i created all resolutions with nvidia own control panel with the GFT standard, i dont use custom resolution utility anymore since dpu3000 sometimes ignore resolutions created on it, (when the monitor is detected a VMM2300 DEMO) also maybe custom resolution utilty have issues with dpu3000 as well?

-nvidia driver version? currently have 445.75
 

Petrasescu_Lucian

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i personaly dont note difference on output quality text on dpu3000 vs native analog cards i have compare against: (gtx 760, and onboard integrated intel hd 4600 analog output) are you two sure you have set your mentioned resolutions properly, and the monitor is not using them windows scaled instead of switching to them (by a monitor internal clicking switch) i ask because when you switch to another resolutions by windows scaling, (the monitor does not makes its characteristinc clicking switch) the text is way notable blury.

what i do is to create all the resolutions i use via nvidia control panel custom resolutions with GTF standard also worked with custom resolution utility with "crt standard" and make sure the monitor switch to them when requested by internal clicking and 1 sec black screen.
i agree at some point is normal to have a bit blurrier text at higher refresh rates (not notable in games for me though).

talking about dpu3000, i want to tell that i started to use mine everyday about 15 days ago with an asus rog strix gaming gtx 1080 ti i recently got used and to my surprise i have had absolutely 0 issues so far with the sunix on all the resolutions and refreshes i use, which are: 1920x1200@60,90hz 1920x1080@60,80,90hz 1280x960@55,60hz 2048x1536@60hz, 1680x1050@60,90hz so no screen flick, no image swaping verticaly or horizontally, no lost connection etc issues the dpu3000 is known to get, i dont know if i have been lucky or what, because in my early test with dpu3000 i posted about a year ago with a gtx 760 msi, i also had many mentioned issues with about a week of testing many users have had as well,
also i have not needed to connect the dpu3000 power to a smarthphone or similar power adapter as some of us suspected was they key of some of the dpu3000 issues. i just currently have mine powererd via motherboard USB3 port.

i suspect the reason of this can be:

-dpu3000 seems to work better with nvidia cards than amd ones as some people on this topic have reported
-i created all resolutions with nvidia own control panel with the GFT standard, i dont use custom resolution utility anymore since dpu3000 sometimes ignore resolutions created on it, (when the monitor is detected a VMM2300 DEMO) also maybe custom resolution utilty have issues with dpu3000 as well?

-nvidia driver version? currently have 445.75
I use both CRU and Nvidia CP Custom Resolutions. The Sunix DPU3000 and Delock 87685 that I own are absolutely identical. They're blurrier than the output of my GTX 980 and lose connection randomly on 2048x1536 no matter the refresh rate (this is the ONLY resolution that crashes on these adapters). Resolutions above this exhibit screen displacement and jitter (the image trembles). This jitter is also present occasionaly on regular or low resolutions such as 1024x768, 1600x1200, 1920x1200, etc. I tested these on the Dell P1130, GDM F520 and FW900.
I personally think they're garbage. I'm interested though in the Vention USB C to VGA adapters that use the Lontium chip but they're impossible to get outside Aliexpress (which has only the older one with the LT8711X-B). I ordered one...should arrive sometime in June...:(
 

Wirysage

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I use both CRU and Nvidia CP Custom Resolutions. The Sunix DPU3000 and Delock 87685 that I own are absolutely identical. They're blurrier than the output of my GTX 980 and lose connection randomly on 2048x1536 no matter the refresh rate (this is the ONLY resolution that crashes on these adapters). Resolutions above this exhibit screen displacement and jitter (the image trembles). This jitter is also present occasionaly on regular or low resolutions such as 1024x768, 1600x1200, 1920x1200, etc. I tested these on the Dell P1130, GDM F520 and FW900.
I personally think they're garbage. I'm interested though in the Vention USB C to VGA adapters that use the Lontium chip but they're impossible to get outside Aliexpress (which has only the older one with the LT8711X-B). I ordered one...should arrive sometime in June...:(

I can confirm all your claims about the Sunnix DPU3000 in relation to occassional text ripples on the screen at 1600x1200 on my Mitsubishi 2060u. The Sunnix also has the issue of occasionally displaying the last bottom line of the screen on the top of the screen.

I've tested my 2060u on a native vga output ATI Radeon HD 4650 and the text still becomes much blurrier at 98hz (but still better than the DPU3000). Can anyone explain why that is? What's the CRT science behind this? The Radeon HD 4650 certainly has a very powerful ramdac able to push the 2060u to it's limits easily.

Has anyone tried a VGA ground loop isolator device on their monitor seeing if it improves the image?

I recently noticed that the Sunnix DPU3000 puts out a cleaner image to the 2060u using a well shielded VGA cable with factory ferrite core chokes on each end of the cable. I compared it against another well shielded cable with no chokes and I swear that the chokes made the image better. It is also important to note that I looped and cable tied each end of the ferrite cable because apparently that's something the professionals do, something to do with magnetic fields?

How does the Delock 62967 perform when you get the shitty DP connector replaced? Has it got the same chipset as the Sunnix?

What the deal with the super expensive HDFury adaptors? Are they any good?
 

XoR_

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How does the Delock 62967 perform when you get the shitty DP connector replaced? Has it got the same chipset as the Sunnix?
If your Delock works then it works. No need to replace DP cable.

something to do with magnetic fields?
In this universe everything seems to revolve around magnetic fields ;)
 

jbltecnicspro

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I can confirm all your claims about the Sunnix DPU3000 in relation to occassional text ripples on the screen at 1600x1200 on my Mitsubishi 2060u. The Sunnix also has the issue of occasionally displaying the last bottom line of the screen on the top of the screen.

I've tested my 2060u on a native vga output ATI Radeon HD 4650 and the text still becomes much blurrier at 98hz (but still better than the DPU3000). Can anyone explain why that is? What's the CRT science behind this? The Radeon HD 4650 certainly has a very powerful ramdac able to push the 2060u to it's limits easily.

The answer for your blurry output it simple - you're running into your monitor's bandwidth limit. It sounds like your Sunnix is running out of analog bandwidth before your Radeon, if it's blurrier.

Your monitor and all CRT monitors have an analog bandwidth limit. The higher you push your refresh rate at higher resolutions, the higher the bandwidth requirement to resolve the image clearly. This is really all it boils down to, in your case at least.

Truth is, there are lots of factors that play into how sharp or blurry your monitor is. Your monitor has several limits - dot pitch (how many dots per square inch your monitor has - the more the better), spot beam size (the smaller the beam, the finer the details it can reproduce) and finally, something that I don't ever really see being discussed here that often - bandwidth limitations. Your video amplifier boards on your monitor have bandwidth limits that determine how sharp or blurry your display is. The higher your resolution, the higher the bandwidth requirement. I haven't looked your monitor up but I'm guessing your user manual will have the bandwidth limit listed in its specs. It's usually expressed in Mhz.
 

SH1

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Still using my GDM-FW900. (With a GDM-F520 as a backup.)

Except for some brief periods through the many years, never have stopped using CRTs.

Still sharp and gorgeous. Especially in the dark, but still very nice as long as the room is on the dimmer side. Still using that filter I mentioned some posts back. It is directly against the glass and leads to a bit of a rainbow effect from the static electricity sometimes. I guess it hasn't bothered me enough to separate the filter from the glass though. Overall it works great to my eyes.

My first FW900, whose demise I mourned many posts back, was my screen for work and play and for the first year or two also my television. Paired with an HD satellite receiver with a VGA out at a time when the signal still remained relatively uncompressed it spoiled me for anything else I saw in the store for many years. (Except for size.)

This current FW900 has had a relatively easy life, sharing the burden with the LCDs in the office and with my phone. However, I am using it as my primary display at the moment during the current world situation.

Presumably my final CRTs. Hope the motion performance and other aspects of the upcoming LG 48 CX offer enough of a path forward.
 

Enhanced Interrogator

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Presumably my final CRTs. Hope the motion performance and other aspects of the upcoming LG 48 CX offer enough of a path forward.

I just wonder if the scanning "black frame insertion" mode only works at 60hz and 120hz, or if it can work at any refresh rate. That would bring it well within reach of being a complete CRT replacement.
 

SH1

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I just wonder if the scanning "black frame insertion" mode only works at 60hz and 120hz, or if it can work at any refresh rate. That would bring it well within reach of being a complete CRT replacement.

Not sure and would also like to know. I guess still early days in terms of getting measurements on the CX for motion.
 

jbltecnicspro

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I just wonder if the scanning "black frame insertion" mode only works at 60hz and 120hz, or if it can work at any refresh rate. That would bring it well within reach of being a complete CRT replacement.

If it can work as low as 60 hz there's no reason it can't work at others. Typically manufacturers don't want to go low because of the flicker.
 

Strat_84

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I've finally dealt with one of my Delock 62967 adapters. I can't believe it. It appears the issue with them may not be cable/plug related, but maybe SOFTWARE. :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

Explanations:
I grabbed one adapter, removed the cable, replaced it with half of a Startech DISPL1M (cable with 28 AWG wires, well shielded, the DP port appears to be properly sized, with a lock, and the DP port can be dismantled, it's not molted).
That was a major pain in the ass to do it properly, tweezers mandatory (etienne51's schematics were very helpful BTW, I double checked them). But I did it, checked everything for continuity and shorts, soaked the wire ends in hot glue, put back a layer of insulating tape on the PCB, then a layer of copper tape, one solder dot between the copper tape and the VGA port's structure, closed everything. Well, I'm proud of it, it's like a new one, but without the shit cable and DP port. :cigar:

DSC05953_light.jpg

DSC05959_light.jpg

DSC05964_light.jpg

DSC05980_light.jpg

DSC05982_light.jpg

Then I tested the adapter on a new computer I finished building about 6 months ago. It's a bit temperamental as I had some BSODs when touching some display properties in Windows (like setting the adapter as the only display if there are several displays connected). Not confirming a resolution switch within 15 seconds or cancelling it results in the screen blinking and clicking forever like with the original adapter did, AND it seems like the system "remembers" that because if that kind of issue happens, it will keep happening whatever you do, you need to delete the display in CRU and then set it up again without doing the wrong thing again.
But appart from that, it works well, this one sustains a pixel clock between 331 and 335 MHz. Radeon settings confirm HBR2 links with 8 bpc color depth.

I then wanted to try it on my older computer. The "fixed" adapter behaves exactly as the original ones, the screen blinks and clicks forever as soon as you try to set a resolution different from the "standard" ones, max 1600x1200@60hz ... :facepalm:
Strange ... I then tried plugging an original adapter on the new computer, the DP plug is a bit lax but IT WORKS exactly the same way as the "fixed" adapter does ! :woot: :facepalm: :facepalm:

- Both computers run on Windows 7 64bits SP1 (except the newer one was updated with most of the newer Microsoft updates, minus the numerous malware/spyware ones)
- Both have similar graphic cards (Sapphire R9 380X in the newer one, Sapphire R9 380 in the older one, but the initial tests were done months ago with the 380X on the older one and that didn't work)
- Both use the same graphic drivers (18.12.3)

WTF ?! :eek:
 

Wirysage

n00b
Joined
Dec 10, 2019
Messages
25
I use both CRU and Nvidia CP Custom Resolutions. The Sunix DPU3000 and Delock 87685 that I own are absolutely identical. They're blurrier than the output of my GTX 980 and lose connection randomly on 2048x1536 no matter the refresh rate (this is the ONLY resolution that crashes on these adapters). Resolutions above this exhibit screen displacement and jitter (the image trembles). This jitter is also present occasionaly on regular or low resolutions such as 1024x768, 1600x1200, 1920x1200, etc. I tested these on the Dell P1130, GDM F520 and FW900.
I personally think they're garbage. I'm interested though in the Vention USB C to VGA adapters that use the Lontium chip but they're impossible to get outside Aliexpress (which has only the older ois ine with the LT8711X-B). I ordered one...should arrive sometime in June...:(

Is it just me or does the Sunnix DPU3000 get these symtoms worse the longer you use it. I remember it was fine for the first 2 months and then it started this text ripple, bottom line on top, random picture drops every 10 minutes or so. Is it something to do with capacitors inside the adaptor going bad do you reckon?

I can't believe this is really the best adaptor on the market.
 

Strat_84

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jul 16, 2016
Messages
478
Is it just me or does the Sunnix DPU3000 get these symtoms worse the longer you use it. I remember it was fine for the first 2 months and then it started this text ripple, bottom line on top, random picture drops every 10 minutes or so. Is it something to do with capacitors inside the adaptor going bad do you reckon?

I can't believe this is really the best adaptor on the market.
Capacitors do not go bad in a matter of months, not even the worst Chinese garbage. And on the top of that the problems are usually with electrolytic capacitors, whereas an adapter like that probably only uses ceramic surface ones.
 

Enhanced Interrogator

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Mar 23, 2013
Messages
1,250
I can't believe this is really the best adaptor on the market.

It's only the best adapter on the market if you regularly want to run over 360mHz resolutions. And actually, I think that Vention USB-C adatper can hit super high clocks as well, so Sunix might not even be the best for that category.

HD Fury still saying they're working on a 5th and final DAC, but I don't know what decade they're aiming for.
 

jbltecnicspro

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Aug 18, 2006
Messages
7,493
HD Fury still saying they're working on a 5th and final DAC, but I don't know what decade they're aiming for.

I lol'd at this. HD Fury got into trouble awhile back from the Hollywood elite for their products, if I recall correctly. Same old crap that we've always heard - giving us consumers an option to use our old (perfectly functional, and in many ways superior) TV sets and monitors apparently puts their bottom line at risk because teh piratez (argh!). Whatever.

So yeah, ever since that happened, HD Fury has stopped producing any digital to analog devices.
 

Petrasescu_Lucian

Weaksauce
Joined
Nov 4, 2010
Messages
85
Is it just me or does the Sunnix DPU3000 get these symtoms worse the longer you use it. I remember it was fine for the first 2 months and then it started this text ripple, bottom line on top, random picture drops every 10 minutes or so. Is it something to do with capacitors inside the adaptor going bad do you reckon?

I can't believe this is really the best adaptor on the market.
No. You're probably paying more attention and are more aware now. They've been garbage for me since day one.
 
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