24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

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Except if it were a tube issue you'd have the same focus issue on the entire display area. So no.

If I look at the pictures it seems both lines are affected, but these aren't very good pictures. You have the screen in front of you, if you tell me the problem is only with the horizontal lines then you have your answer. The problem is either with the vertical dynamic focus section of the circuit on the D board, the +15V / -15V lines or the N board.

edit: ahaha, mistake. :p
Looking back at the schematics the vertical dynamic focus is a circuit actually separated from the vertical deflection. That kind of signal goes to the flyback.
Thank you Strat, I'll investigate. It looks like I have a new project/hobby on my hands :)
I hope I can find quality spare parts such as capacitors or transistors if I decide to delve deeper into this. :)
 

Strat_84

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You'll have absolutely no problem finding a replacement for basic components like resistors, capacitors, diodes. It becomes really tricky only with integrated circuits (often discontinued and specific) and some old transistors/mosfets that have no recent equivalent.
 

kohan69

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Thanks, I'm glad to share this. :)

My screen didn't have much of an issue except old age, and its previous owner being a retard calling himself "electronician" and messing with the inside. He desoldered perfectly working memory chips for weird reasons (maybe to try saving the data ?), and broke a few lines in the flat cables linking the boards in the dismantling process. That led to the display contracting itself vertically. The G2 voltage was also completely messed up but this is pretty common.
It took a long time before I found the cable issue and I had already made a full recap for electrolytics, and many film and ceramic capacitors. Some replacements weren't really necessary, but I intended to restore that screen as completely as possible anyway, and to investigate the boards to find if some limited improvements were possible while I was on it.

One obvious detail I forgot to mention about the replacement of C919, you'd be replacing a leaky crappy worn out capacitor with a quality new one, that means a white point balance procedure with Windas is mandatory after the replacement.

Also, you should check the boards for bad solders, there are often some. In your case, according to your description I'd rather think about some capacitor issue on a voltage line. Maybe noise related to horizontal deflection or vertical deflection, or both, is making its way back on these lines and reaching areas it shouldn't. But it's only a guess, you'd need an oscilloscope to check this. ;)
I have access to an oscilloscope. Would be neat to diagnose it properly!
 

Strat_84

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You should rather send him a private message (you need enough posts on the forum for that if I remember well, maybe 10 ?).

But don't be too optimistic, Uncle Vito hasn't shown up for nearly 2 years, it's likely he sold everything he had and went out of business.
 
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You'll have absolutely no problem finding a replacement for basic components like resistors, capacitors, diodes. It becomes really tricky only with integrated circuits (often discontinued and specific) and some old transistors/mosfets that have no recent equivalent.
I opened up the FW900 and checked the voltage lines from the G board (power supply board). I monitored the voltages for an hour:
+15V = 15.13V stable
-15V = -15.10V stable
+5V = 5.00V stable
+12V = 12.01V stable
+220V = varies between 218V and 220V
+80V = 77.5V stable !!!!!

All capacitors in the monitor look ok (no bulging or swelling). I'll dig the +80V line further.
 
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Strat_84

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I opened up the FW900 and checked the voltage lines from the G board (power supply board). I monitored the voltages for an hour:
+15V = 15.13V stable
-15V = -15.10V stable
+5V = 5.00V stable
+12V = 12.01V stable
+220V = varies between 218V and 220V
+80V = 77.5V stable !!!!!

All capacitors in the monitor look ok (no bulging or swelling). I'll dig the +80V line further.
Did you check that with a multimeter or an oscilloscope ?
12V -> keep in mind there is another LDO to provide some 12V from the 15V line on the D board. The 12V you're measuring on the G board is only the "general" 12V line, not the one used on the D board.
The 80V line being a bit low is probably normal (that's actually only about -3%). I don't remember to have seen it reaching 80V, rather 78-79V, and it tends to drop with high contrast/brightness settings.
The +15V/-15V lines may be a bit weird on contrary, I'm surprised to see them that high. I dug in my notes and on GDM-5410s it was in the 14.5-14.8V range. I can't find such measurement for the FW900.

A voltage a bit higher than expected could mean some circuitry supposed to draw power on that line doesn't. And the vertical dynamic focus circuit draws some 15V, that would be consistent with your symptoms, you should definitively check that. A dozen of components are involved, you can find the area in the service manual, D board schematics diagram, bottom left, from the "VDF" signal.
 

christpunchers

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Checked up all the posts from 2019. Seems like there’s much renewed interest in CRTs as of late. Amazing!

I think Vito has retired since 2018. We exchanged a few messages last year. He’s trying to get into some new business. When I’m less busy, I’ll try to entice him on one last attempt to find me the most exquisite FW900 in triple A+ condition to add to my collection of 4 FW900s! He has sources, I’m sure!

Question 1:

So I’m still playing with the Sunix DPU3000 adapter since I got it over a year ago. No major issues. But occasionally it will do its blinking, jittering thing when I use 2304 x 1440 @ 80hz. Doesn’t happen in prime mode (1920 x 1200 @ 84hz — yes 84hz or any even number refresh rate seems to resolve all artifacts). Is there now a better adapter with less problems than the Sunix? Or are we still confirming?

Question 2:

I want to add an AR film to two FW900s without the original AG films. Any recommendations? I talked to Strat84 in the past but he doesn’t think there’s a perfect solution.

I’m not looking for any perfect solution. Just something that can make blacks darker. I’ve found AG-less FW900s to be always more gray even when properly calibrated.

I don’t care about running the tubes a harder or static dust. I’ve read posts on polarizers and car films, etc. Can anyone with experience recommend something I can buy online? Price is not an issue. Just as long as I can cut it size or it comes in custom sizing and gives better blacks without screwing up the image.
 

SH1

[H]ard|Gawd
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Yeah, wow...here's another one:
.

I need to find out more about question 1 myself. For the 2nd question, I'm still very happy with the Kantek solution described earlier. (It's a relatively thick piece of plastic though, needs to be almost touching the screen to minimize distortion, and requires debezelling the way I mounted it.)
 

christpunchers

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Yeah, wow...here's another one:
.

I need to find out more about question 1 myself. For the 2nd question, I'm still very happy with the Kantek solution described earlier. (It's a relatively thick piece of plastic though, needs to be almost touching the screen to minimize distortion, and requires debezelling the way I mounted it.)
When the Kantek filter is kept very close to the glass, is there any distortion at all?
 

SH1

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When the Kantek filter is kept very close to the glass, is there any distortion at all?
A slight echo in the lower part of the screen if looking down on something, e.g., text against a black background, through the thickness of the piece of acrylic.

A disadvantage of using an old school filter instead of a film, but overall I'm very pleased.
 

christpunchers

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A slight echo in the lower part of the screen if looking down on something, e.g., text against a black background, through the thickness of the piece of acrylic.

A disadvantage of using an old school filter instead of a film, but overall I'm very pleased.
I see. If you were to try a film with adhesive, which one would it be? Willing to buy one as a test.
 

SH1

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Only other one I purchased was the linear polarizing film discussed earlier, which I think comes in a version with adhesive or maybe you'd need to add your own. Just seemed too dark for me. Liked how the tint of the Kantek is between the original and the polarizing film.
 
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Did you check that with a multimeter or an oscilloscope ?
12V -> keep in mind there is another LDO to provide some 12V from the 15V line on the D board. The 12V you're measuring on the G board is only the "general" 12V line, not the one used on the D board.
The 80V line being a bit low is probably normal (that's actually only about -3%). I don't remember to have seen it reaching 80V, rather 78-79V, and it tends to drop with high contrast/brightness settings.
The +15V/-15V lines may be a bit weird on contrary, I'm surprised to see them that high. I dug in my notes and on GDM-5410s it was in the 14.5-14.8V range. I can't find such measurement for the FW900.

A voltage a bit higher than expected could mean some circuitry supposed to draw power on that line doesn't. And the vertical dynamic focus circuit draws some 15V, that would be consistent with your symptoms, you should definitively check that. A dozen of components are involved, you can find the area in the service manual, D board schematics diagram, bottom left, from the "VDF" signal.
Hi Strat!
I'm at a loss here. I took out and measured the capacitance of every cap on the D board and all of them are within specs (I use quite an expensive professional multimeter).
Out of curiosity, what caps do you usually replace on the D board?
Regarding the +15V/-15V theory I don't agree. I think the G board is working perfectly as the voltages vary between 15.18V on a complete black screen to 15.00V on a complete white screen.
All this leaves me with one culprit, the FBT itself (see pic).
Is it wise to replace it with one from a 4:3 monitor such as the F520? If not, where can I find one, or better yet, the entire D board?
Thanks!
 

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Strat_84

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Hi Strat!
I'm at a loss here. I took out and measured the capacitance of every cap on the D board and all of them are within specs (I use quite an expensive professional multimeter).
Out of curiosity, what caps do you usually replace on the D board?
Regarding the +15V/-15V theory I don't agree. I think the G board is working perfectly as the voltages vary between 15.18V on a complete black screen to 15.00V on a complete white screen.
All this leaves me with one culprit, the FBT itself (see pic).
Is it wise to replace it with one from a 4:3 monitor such as the F520? If not, where can I find one, or better yet, the entire D board?
Thanks!
Your issue isn't necessarily a capacitor issue. And you'd need to desolder them for proper mesurement, I doubt you did that right ? No multimeter can reliably measure both capacitance and ESR in circuit, at least half of the time the capacitor measured is in parallel with several others, or other components between the line and the ground, and the value barely means anything.

I pointed out the area you should check regarding your symptoms, did you do that ? It could be as stupid as a bad solder somewhere there.

About -15/+15V line, you didn't understand what I mean, read again. I didn't say the G board has an issue.

Nope, everytime there's an issue with a CRT it's not the FBT having a problem (I'm tired of reading that again and again, really :censored: ). And no, using a FBT from another model than the correct one is a very bad idea, there's no datasheet for these and no way to know how similar they could be.
 
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Your issue isn't necessarily a capacitor issue. And you'd need to desolder them for proper mesurement, I doubt you did that right ? No multimeter can reliably measure both capacitance and ESR in circuit, at least half of the time the capacitor measured is in parallel with several others, or other components between the line and the ground, and the value barely means anything.

I pointed out the area you should check regarding your symptoms, did you do that ? It could be as stupid as a bad solder somewhere there.

About -15/+15V line, you didn't understand what I mean, read again. I didn't say the G board has an issue.

Nope, everytime there's an issue with a CRT it's not the FBT having a problem (I'm tired of reading that again and again, really :censored: ). And no, using a FBT from another model than the correct one is a very bad idea, there's no datasheet for these and no way to know how similar they could be.
Read my post again.
I desoldered EVERY capacitor, measured it and resoldered again. It took 3 days. Ofcourse I re-did all solder points. That's the first thing I did about a month ago when I got the monitor.
I also measured some resistors (after desoldering them ofcourse) but not all of them. They're ok. The ones that go bad usually change color.
Regarding the +15V and -15V, as I clearly said, the voltage varies with what I'm doing with the monitor. If the screen is black the voltage is high; if the screen is white the voltage drops. This is normal behavior. Everything is ok there.
You haven't answered my questions:
1. What caps do you usually replace on the D board.
2. Do you have an idea where I can find an FW900 FBT or D board?
Thanks!
 

Strat_84

Limp Gawd
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1°) Well, the point is, given the hassle of desoldering the capacitors, and the relatively low cost, it's not an usual practice to desolder all of them just to check them, especially if there isn't some clue pointing out a capacitor failure. Either this is a "smart" check based on some clue you have, or all are desoldered to be replaced at once.
Unless there is one identified clear failure, it doesn't make sense to replace one (electrolytic) capacitor and not another. Eventually the older one will show aging problems one day when the newer one will still be perfectly fine.

2°) You're asking for a miracle, and I'm no magician. That kind of spare part is long gone, and if you ever have the luck to find some, the price will be prohibitive (plus the risk of defect if it's a used one). But anyway, a FBT failure can be suspected only if the symptoms match and every other possible cause has been ruled out. Your symptoms rather point out different parts, and this doesn't seem to have been extensively checked so ...

In the area I pointed out, there are some resistors to check (no need to desolder unless the reading is really suspicious, what you're looking for are shorts, resistors cut off, or a massive resistance variation that doesn't make sense given the schematics). That alone may point toward some of the other components in the vicinity, then there is a couple of diodes, one ceramic capacitor (make sure it's not shorted to the ground, but if it is, the fusible resistor just before will probably be cut off), a couple of transistors (idealy desolder and check with a component tester, compare values with the datasheet. But some raw checking can be done with a multimeter in diode mode, maybe in circuit).
Now, if that area is good, then check the continuity of the flat cable bringing the VDF signal to the D board, the track may be broken. If the flat cable is OK then things become complicated, you'd need an oscilloscope to make sure there's a "VDF" signal input to the D board. If the "VDF" signal is there, and there's still a matching signal input to the FBT, then it could be a FBT issue. If there's no VDF signal you'd have go down the track to the N board, and then start again the checking work until you find what's wrong.

edit: another possible failure to investigate before having to use an oscilloscope, the 400V line on the D board. If it's down then no signal will reach the FBT.
 
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christpunchers

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For those who watch movies using their CRT: I’m using MadVR with JRiver as the player.

Using 16-235 color setting in MadVR produces great visuals in most HD+ rips that I have. But the annoying thing is that for some rips, the black bars are more gray than black.

If I adjust the blacks to be below 16 or try 0-255 colors, the black bars are black, but the image itself is black crushed.

My FW900 is well calibrated, the blacks are very inky. So it’s not a monitor problem at all.

Is there any tricks in MadVR or otherwise that can get black bars to be black without touching the image itself?
 

spacediver

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For those who watch movies using their CRT: I’m using MadVR with JRiver as the player.

Using 16-235 color setting in MadVR produces great visuals in most HD+ rips that I have. But the annoying thing is that for some rips, the black bars are more gray than black.

If I adjust the blacks to be below 16 or try 0-255 colors, the black bars are black, but the image itself is black crushed.

My FW900 is well calibrated, the blacks are very inky. So it’s not a monitor problem at all.

Is there any tricks in MadVR or otherwise that can get black bars to be black without touching the image itself?
If you've calibrated your tube for inky blacks, I'm assuming you're using a LUT adjustment to compensate for the crushing associated with using a low G2. If so, make sure "disable gpu gamma ramps" is unchecked in madvr. And you definitely want 0-255 not 16-255.
 

christpunchers

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If you've calibrated your tube for inky blacks, I'm assuming you're using a LUT adjustment to compensate for the crushing associated with using a low G2. If so, make sure "disable gpu gamma ramps" is unchecked in madvr. And you definitely want 0-255 not 16-255.
I’m not using any LUT. Anything outside of movies work fine. Games, desktop, YouTube etc.

I’ll try the disable gou gamma ramps.

0-255 seems to be advised against from what I’ve read. Blacks are crushed when I’m in 0-255.
 

Strat_84

Limp Gawd
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For the gray scale to be prefectly even (i.e. no black crush) you definitively need a colorimeter, and to set a color profile. Displaycal is an excellent, and free software for this.
 

oldmanbal

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Quick question. After my fw-900 died on me (and it'll be over $500 for repairs) I had been using a Sony Multiscan e540. Here's the dig tho, after about a year of regular use for competetive gaming, it started having a power on issue where I would have to power it on and off a few times until it would stay on. After awhile, the amount of attempts slowly increased until it was taking 10+ minutes of clicking the switch on and off until it would stay on. Eventually it was talking so long I couldn't get it to really stay on consistently anymore. This a red flag for anything specific? Would love to have it as a backup for my 144hz freesync as it's just not quite the same.
 

Strat_84

Limp Gawd
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That kind of issue could come from a bad solder. Moving the monitor, or knocking the casing may improve that and confirm this is the issue. But given your description it is likely there has been some arcing during the on/off process, and limited reflow or dilatation allowing a temporary contact. It's probably not just a bad solder anymore, all the solder must be gone by now.
 

spacediver

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I’m not using any LUT. Anything outside of movies work fine. Games, desktop, YouTube etc.

I’ll try the disable gou gamma ramps.

0-255 seems to be advised against from what I’ve read. Blacks are crushed when I’m in 0-255.
You're on a PC, so you should be using 0-255.

If you calibrated your tube for deep inky blacks, you will automatically have crushed blacks. That's what the LUT adjustment step in my guide is for. If you're not seeing crushed blacks outside of your video player, here are some possibilities:

1) You didn't actually use deep enough blacks to crush them, and you're either watching poorly mastered material (too dark) on your video player, or you're botching the image somehow in your video player.
2) You did crush the image, and the stuff on desktop/youtube/games is poorly mastered in the opposite direction (i.e. it's too bright).

Have you tried another video player? Try media player classic and seeing if the image looks any different.
 

LAGRUNAUER

Gawd
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Messages
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Checked up all the posts from 2019. Seems like there’s much renewed interest in CRTs as of late. Amazing!

I think Vito has retired since 2018. We exchanged a few messages last year. He’s trying to get into some new business. When I’m less busy, I’ll try to entice him on one last attempt to find me the most exquisite FW900 in triple A+ condition to add to my collection of 4 FW900s! He has sources, I’m sure!

Question 1:

So I’m still playing with the Sunix DPU3000 adapter since I got it over a year ago. No major issues. But occasionally it will do its blinking, jittering thing when I use 2304 x 1440 @ 80hz. Doesn’t happen in prime mode (1920 x 1200 @ 84hz — yes 84hz or any even number refresh rate seems to resolve all artifacts). Is there now a better adapter with less problems than the Sunix? Or are we still confirming?

Question 2:

I want to add an AR film to two FW900s without the original AG films. Any recommendations? I talked to Strat84 in the past but he doesn’t think there’s a perfect solution.

I’m not looking for any perfect solution. Just something that can make blacks darker. I’ve found AG-less FW900s to be always more gray even when properly calibrated.

I don’t care about running the tubes a harder or static dust. I’ve read posts on polarizers and car films, etc. Can anyone with experience recommend something I can buy online? Price is not an issue. Just as long as I can cut it size or it comes in custom sizing and gives better blacks without screwing up the image.


NO! I am still around... and I finally decided to let go my personal units... I have two (2) that I will be selling, but will not post them on eBay... Anyone seriously interested, please shoot me PM message... Miss all of you!

Take care and LONG LIVE THE GDM-FW900 and all the magnificent Sony CRTs!!!
 

LAGRUNAUER

Gawd
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Messages
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I haven't seen Eizo & Iiyama, but FW900 doesn't have the best quality amongst trinitrons to be honest. I like F520 better. FW900 has this weird phosphor / coating compared to other models. F520 and even G500 have better percieved contrast and color saturation in my opinion, while handling reflections better.
Both the GDM-F520 and the F500R have the same picture tube (.22 aperture grill). I don't think the G500 has a .22 AG tube. Once, Sony flirted with a .19 aperture grill tube unit and I had the chance to see the prototype. It never went into production...

The GDM-FW900 has a range between 0.24-0.27. with the best AG in the center and the worst on the edges. Still, for a large 24" (22" viewable) tube, it had incredible colors, excellent black and grays, and decent graphics and text rendition. Again, that is my personal opinion, being an user and a CRT professional... But like I said many times, "Beauty is in the eyes of the beholder..."

Hope this helps...

Sincerely,

Unkle Vito!
 

Starfalcon

Weaksauce
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Wow it sure is amazing that people are still into CRTs, Ive kept all mine over the years. People called me crazy, but I like using them still. Ive been fortunate to still have both the Sony FW-900 and the HP version of it. I also have a few other ones, mostly trinitrons.
 

SH1

[H]ard|Gawd
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Messages
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Both the GDM-F520 and the F500R have the same picture tube (.22 aperture grill). I don't think the G500 has a .22 AG tube. Once, Sony flirted with a .19 aperture grill tube unit and I had the chance to see the prototype. It never went into production...

The GDM-FW900 has a range between 0.24-0.27. with the best AG in the center and the worst on the edges. Still, for a large 24" (22" viewable) tube, it had incredible colors, excellent black and grays, and decent graphics and text rendition. Again, that is my personal opinion, being an user and a CRT professional... But like I said many times, "Beauty is in the eyes of the beholder..."

Hope this helps...

Sincerely,

Unkle Vito!
That would be 0.23 to 0.27 Sir. :)

Still loving your product!

Thanks for the sign of life Unkle V!
 

SH1

[H]ard|Gawd
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Wow it sure is amazing that people are still into CRTs, Ive kept all mine over the years. People called me crazy, but I like using them still. Ive been fortunate to still have both the Sony FW-900 and the HP version of it. I also have a few other ones, mostly trinitrons.
Not crazy! Could never myself get used to the idea of a black that lit up my room at night...
 

mod

n00b
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Jan 23, 2019
Messages
9
That would be 0.23 to 0.27 Sir. :)

Still loving your product!

Thanks for the sign of life Unkle V!
You can thank me for that, as I thought that he still has some unit(s) in box. :}

Unkle, I just found one HP rebadge (condition seems perfect) near Dresden and snapped it just in case. My unit is showing signs of death.
 

boomeh

n00b
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Jan 12, 2020
Messages
5
Hi Folks,

Im new here and have just purchased one of these machines, got it home and running into issues with the monitor not displaying the desktop when connected. I know the monitor itself works as i get a 'No signal' image flash up when I turn the monitor on before it goes to power saving mode. Currently i've connected it to my Windforce GTX 1080 GPU with a Startech VGA to Display port adaptor that the seller kindly included for me however the Sony doesn't appear to see the signal. My operating system is windows 7 and I have been able to see the Sony appear as a second monitor under the Screen Resolution tab however I cannot change any of the options such Resolution or Orientation and Advanced Settings is greyed out too.

I thought id ask the experts before I go ahead and buy a bunch of alternative adaptors or something else. I have display ports, hdmi and also a DVI on the back of my gpu but I feel i'm missing something incredibly simple and have been left scratching my head on how to proceed.

Thanks very much!
 
Joined
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Messages
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Hi Folks,

Im new here and have just purchased one of these machines, got it home and running into issues with the monitor not displaying the desktop when connected. I know the monitor itself works as i get a 'No signal' image flash up when I turn the monitor on before it goes to power saving mode. Currently i've connected it to my Windforce GTX 1080 GPU with a Startech VGA to Display port adaptor that the seller kindly included for me however the Sony doesn't appear to see the signal. My operating system is windows 7 and I have been able to see the Sony appear as a second monitor under the Screen Resolution tab however I cannot change any of the options such Resolution or Orientation and Advanced Settings is greyed out too.

I thought id ask the experts before I go ahead and buy a bunch of alternative adaptors or something else. I have display ports, hdmi and also a DVI on the back of my gpu but I feel i'm missing something incredibly simple and have been left scratching my head on how to proceed.

Thanks very much!
It's weird you have all that stuff greyed out, make sure "extend these displays" is enabled, instead of just showing on monitor 1 or whatever.

You should also go back through the pages for the past couple years, because we've found a few good adapters that work better than your average "1080p60hz" adapters.
 

boomeh

n00b
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Jan 12, 2020
Messages
5
It's weird you have all that stuff greyed out, make sure "extend these displays" is enabled, instead of just showing on monitor 1 or whatever.

You should also go back through the pages for the past couple years, because we've found a few good adapters that work better than your average "1080p60hz" adapters.
Thanks for the reply!

I've ordered one of the Vga to DVI adaptors mentioned in a previous post which should hopefully solve my issue.

I've had a bit of progress however. If i disconnect my other monitor and run only the Sony with the VGA adaptor through the primary Display Port I manage to get the bios screen and also the loading windows screen, but as soon as it attempts to load into windows itself the no signal screen pops up and the monitor goes back to sleep.

I feel its either the adaptor itself or perhaps even my gpu but if anyone has experienced anything like this I would appreciate the help!
 

Chief Blur Buster

Owner of BlurBusters
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Aug 18, 2017
Messages
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Desire for a head-to-head XG270 vs FW900:
Somebody submitted an Amazon review of the VIewSonic XG270 being preferred over FW900. (With the XG270 running 120Hz PureXP+, strobing with 99% sRGB with no strobe crosstalk thanks to intentional Hz headroom below 240Hz being commandeered to improve 120Hz strobe quality) -- I'm now looking to publish a head-to-head of FW900 versus XG270. I expect some things FW900 better, with some things XG270 better -- this needs to be borne out.

Looking for FW900 for keeps:
I already have ability to borrow from spacediver, siince I know him and he is near where I live. However, I am looking for a keeper to use as a reference. If anyone else in Toronto or Buffalo area has a spare FW900 CRT -- please send me a DM or email mark [at] blurbusters.com -- Blur Busters is looking for a relatively local FW900 CRT (or a different high-scanrate CRTs like 445pro -- but would settle for a Dell P1130) to own for reference purposes, instead of borrow. Offers have come from afar, but shipping is too risky / crazy priced.
 
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boomeh

n00b
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Jan 12, 2020
Messages
5
Thanks for the reply!

I've ordered one of the Vga to DVI adaptors mentioned in a previous post which should hopefully solve my issue.

I've had a bit of progress however. If i disconnect my other monitor and run only the Sony with the VGA adaptor through the primary Display Port I manage to get the bios screen and also the loading windows screen, but as soon as it attempts to load into windows itself the no signal screen pops up and the monitor goes back to sleep.

I feel its either the adaptor itself or perhaps even my gpu but if anyone has experienced anything like this I would appreciate the help!
Ok so my VGA-DVI cable worked! Everything looks great except i can only run it up to 1280x800 (I can select up to 2048x1280 through windows) however running it from 1360x768 and above results in a green tinge in the greys and blacks. Ive tried to do the Image Restore option within the monitors options multiple times however nothing appears different. Don't get me wrong, everything looks great but if i change the resolution from 1360x768, it results in an awful picture. I also swaped out with an Hdmi adapter instead of the DVI but it results in the same threshold.

Do i need to buy a new GPU with one of those USB C connections?

Thanks again folks
 

christpunchers

Limp Gawd
Joined
Dec 26, 2006
Messages
479
Ok so my VGA-DVI cable worked! Everything looks great except i can only run it up to 1280x800 (I can select up to 2048x1280 through windows) however running it from 1360x768 and above results in a green tinge in the greys and blacks. Ive tried to do the Image Restore option within the monitors options multiple times however nothing appears different. Don't get me wrong, everything looks great but if i change the resolution from 1360x768, it results in an awful picture. I also swaped out with an Hdmi adapter instead of the DVI but it results in the same threshold.

Do i need to buy a new GPU with one of those USB C connections?

Thanks again folks
You need to run WPB using WinDAS and a color meter.
 
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