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24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

jyb said:
I mainly have 2 questions:

1.) What is the best adapater that is Currently available? My needs would be only to go up to 1900x1200 @ 85hz.
2.) When can we expect an update on this new adapter that is curently being working on? I am very eager to know so I can start using my fw900 again.
Click to expand...

To my knowledge, the best current would be the Delock adapter, though the current model has a bad connector and you need to solder a better one to it. They're working on a improved revision according to Derupter. This model supports above 330mhz when it has a decent connector

The second tier, ones that max out between 275 and 300mhz, would be the VCOM dipslayport adapter, and the HDFury Nano GX. I'm sure there are others out there, but these two are the ones we've discussed here.

As to your second question, the HDFury people were working on a new DAC as of two years ago, but they haven't given an update in a long time, so it is unknown if they're still interested.
 
jyb I have the same StarTech adapter you have, and while I had issues earlier this year getting past 1280x1024x85 after the Creator's Update, it seems to be working fine now. It's good for around a 232.6 MHz pixel clock. It looks fine up to that point, but after 233 MHz, it just doesn't display anything at all. But you're going to need 280 MHz to hit 1900x1200x85.

As EnhancedInterrogator said, we're all mostly waiting for news on the Delock adapter.
 
@Ashum, what is the Creator's update? I will need to look into that. Also what resolution and frequency are you using with the startech adapater? Also if you don't mind sharing, what applications do you use other than nvidia to create the custom resolution? Thank you
 
I posted in April this year about the Windows 10 Creator's Update messing up the functionality of the StarTech adapter, but it works fine now. That could have been the update or nvidia's driver or some combination of both.

For my Dell P1130s (4:3 with a max hor. freq. of 130 kHz), I typically run them at 1340x1005x120 from my GTX 780/980 Ti. That res/refresh rate needs a 240 MHz pixel clock, which the StarTech cannot do. To hit 120 Hz via the adapter, I drop down to 1320x990. This can be done with either the nvidia control panel's custom res, or using Custom Resolution Utility. Both work. Whichever you use, just make sure your pixel clock remains below 233.

I'm surprised you're getting a blurry image. As I said above, the image seems great until reaching the pixel clock limit.

Btw, the StarTech can't even do 1600x1200x85! That's why I bought a used 980 Ti for CRT duty.
 
jyb said:
There was someone else in this thread a few pages back who mentioned this adapter: https://plugable.com/products/usbc-vga/

I have purchased the USBC-VGA adapter....but my 1080ti founder edition does not have a USBC port. My motherboard does have a USBC port. However, when I plug it into my motherboard and connect my monitor, I get absolutely no signal at all.
Click to expand...

That's strange. I wonder if there's something you need to do to enable the port, maybe in BIOS?
 
jyb said:
There was someone else in this thread a few pages back who mentioned this adapter: https://plugable.com/products/usbc-vga/

I have purchased the USBC-VGA adapter....but my 1080ti founder edition does not have a USBC port. My motherboard does have a USBC port. However, when I plug it into my motherboard and connect my monitor, I get absolutely no signal at all.

I mainly have 2 questions:

1.) What is the best adapater that is Currently available? My needs would be only to go up to 1900x1200 @ 85hz.
2.) When can we expect an update on this new adapter that is curently being working on? I am very eager to know so I can start using my fw900 again.
Click to expand...

The plugable adapter you purchased can do 1920x1200 96 Hz on FW900 without problems.
To connect the adapter to your 1080ti you need a card like this:
http://www.sunix.com/en/product_detail.php?cid=1&kid=2&gid=11&pid=1909
https://www.amazon.com/Dual-USB-C-E...&qid=1512835690&sr=8-1&keywords=Sunix+UPD2018
If you are from Europe this http://www.delock.de/produkte/G_89582/merkmale.html (it is identical to the Sunix)
It requires a PCI express slot,the card is 1x 3.0 but if you are not interested to USB functionality you can use a simple 1x 1.1 slot.
The slot speed is irrelevant for the adapter functionality (it serves only for power the card) and you can even don't install the card drivers,in fact it already works when you turn on the computer,for this reason it can be used even externally with special adapters (you can find a video at the end of page 381)
About the adapters,the best are those with the ANX9847 chip like your plugable,the Delock ones is displayport, so it does not require the use of the additional card and it costs less.

EnhancedInterrogator said:
To my knowledge, the best current would be the Delock adapter, though the current model has a bad connector and you need to solder a better one to it. They're working on a improved revision according to Derupter. This model supports above 330mhz when it has a decent connector

The second tier, ones that max out between 275 and 300mhz, would be the VCOM dipslayport adapter, and the HDFury Nano GX. I'm sure there are others out there, but these two are the ones we've discussed here.

As to your second question, the HDFury people were working on a new DAC as of two years ago, but they haven't given an update in a long time, so it is unknown if they're still interested.
Click to expand...

VCOM an HDFury Nano GX can do 275-300 MHz?
Are you sure?

spacediver said:
That's strange. I wonder if there's something you need to do to enable the port, maybe in BIOS?
Click to expand...

I seemed to have been clear about this,Displayport over USB-C works only if the USB switch can access the displayport lanes of the video card,this is impossible because the only access is the pci express bus and displayport signal cannot pass there.
Most if not all motherboards with USB-C connector don't support display output because internally the chip isn't even connected to the displayport lanes of the integrated GPU and even if it were connected, it would only work with the integrated ones.
On notebooks the story is different,USB-C most of the time is connected to the integrated GPU and on some models you can even play with the secondary "power" GPU and output through USB-C
 
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So Derupter - to consolidate your post into one statement - there IS a way we can connect our high-res CRT's to digital-only cards after all? And actually - enjoy their higher-res modes?
 
jbltecnicspro said:
So Derupter - to consolidate your post into one statement - there IS a way we can connect our high-res CRT's to digital-only cards after all? And actually - enjoy their higher-res modes?
Click to expand...

Yes,buy the plugable adapter plus the Sunix card if you are from USA or the Delock version of both if you are from Europe (read end of page 381 for detail)
If you want to spend less,buy the Delock 62967,not all are bad,example i bought two from Jacob.de and they work perfectly,it's a risk but can works or you can wait for the enhanced version of 62967 from Delock (better cable and connectors)
 
You know that I just looked at the first post on this thread and was still very impressed. The games of today do not look at that much better than the Far Cry and COD game in the first post, they looked great on that monitor in 2005. :)
 
anyone know where i can reach unklevito? i put a down payment on a fw900after fedex dropped the one i originally bought, i failed to get the money to buy for this second fw900, so i would like my money back minus a few hundred for the time it took, i am in desperate need of that kind of money as it's over $1000 can even be 2 i don't remember.

edit found out he still is active here so i've sent a pm.
 
Derupter said:
T

I seemed to have been clear about this,Displayport over USB-C works only if the USB switch can access the displayport lanes of the video card,this is impossible because the only access is the pci express bus and displayport signal cannot pass there.
Most if not all motherboards with USB-C connector don't support display output because internally the chip isn't even connected to the displayport lanes of the integrated GPU and even if it were connected, it would only work with the integrated ones.
On notebooks the story is different,USB-C most of the time is connected to the integrated GPU and on some models you can even play with the secondary "power" GPU and output through USB-C
Click to expand...

Thanks for clarifiying this, good to know!
 
Is this some kind of revised version of the Delock adapter for sale? I noticed it has a lock release on the display port connector.

http://www.grooves-inc.com/delock-a...or-delock-adapter-cable-pZZa1-2097725159.html

1.jpg

2.jpg
 
EnhancedInterrogator said:
What's the upper limit for the pixel clock on the USB-C adapter? And does the Sunix card add any input lag?
Click to expand...

The sample tested by spacediver (plugable adapter) can do 335 MHz (it fail at 340 so probably the limit is around 337-338),that of joevt 330 MHz (he tested with the Sunix card)
The Delock USB-C has not been tested,but it should have the same performance.
The physical limit is 360 MHz,so with a lucky chip it can do more
About the input lag,from what i saw looking the card PCB and the USB crosspoint switch datasheet,not 100% sure but at 90% i say no input lag.

gilmour509 said:
Is this some kind of revised version of the Delock adapter for sale? I noticed it has a lock release on the display port connector.

http://www.grooves-inc.com/delock-a...or-delock-adapter-cable-pZZa1-2097725159.html

View attachment 45988
View attachment 45989
Click to expand...

No that is a simple adapter with the ANX9832 or ANX9833,max pixel clock 180 MHz
 
Derupter -

For the time being, i am using the StarTech Adapater with a max limit of 232mhz clock speed. I have succesfully managed to get my resolution up to 1480 x 900 @ 120hz...For gaming purposes, I have found the additional refresh rate to be beneficial.

I have even gone as high as 1520x 855 & 120hz (16:9) resolution, my preference is to stick to a 16:10 resolution which is why 1480 x900 @120hz works the best for me for the time being.

Thank you for the suggestion on the sunnex card, it completely makes sense on why the USB-C adpater would not work. Going from 232mhz to 330 seems like a massive upgrade, so I believe I am going to purchase the Sunix card and combine with the USB-C-->VGA and come back here to report....To run at 1900x1200 would be a dream come true on my 1080ti especially at a 96hz refresh rate. Gonna place my order now and report back to the forums on my results....Will also be waiting for an updated adapter to hit the magical 360mhz limit.
 
jyb said:
I just tried ordering the Sunix card off amazon...won't ship to Canada :(

[edit]: Anyone know if this card would work in the same manner up to 330hz?

https://www.startech.com/ca/Cards-Adapters/USB-3.0/Cards/2-port-pcie-usb-3-1-card~PEXUSB312C
Click to expand...

No that card is not good,it's a simple usb card,it must have the displayport input female connector and support for alternate mode.
I know only two cards,the Sunix UPD2018 and the Delock 89582,inside the package of these cards there is also a Displayport male to male cable to connect the graphic card
Look here https://www.amazon.ca/Dual-USB-C-Ex...&qid=1513013965&sr=8-1&keywords=sunix+upd2018
and here https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Produ...114049&utm_source=shopbot&utm_medium=referral
or search for Sunix UPD2018 in your country
Sunix and Delock cards don't have a 330 MHz limit,they support four displayport lanes 1.2,so the limit is 720 MHz 24bit,how much can reach the adapter depends only by its chip.

gilmour509 said:
So this is the good one with the bad connector? http://www.grooves-inc.com/delock-d...er-delock-adapter-cable-pZZa1-2097981290.html

For the price I'll just get it even if I have to repair it.
Click to expand...

Yes that is the adapter,the connector is not that bad,internal solders are the problem on some samples.
If you try it please make a report here
 
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Derupter said:
No that card is not good,it's a simple usb card,it must have the displayport input female connector and support for alternate mode.
I know only two cards,the Sunix UPD2018 and the Delock 89582,inside the package of these cards there is also a Displayport male to male cable to connect the graphic card
Look here https://www.amazon.ca/Dual-USB-C-Ex...&qid=1513013965&sr=8-1&keywords=sunix+upd2018
and here https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Produ...114049&utm_source=shopbot&utm_medium=referral
or search for Sunix UPD2018 in your country
Sunix and Delock cards don't have a 330 MHz limit,they support four displayport lanes 1.2,so the limit is 720 MHz 24bit,how much can reach the adapter depends only by its chip.



Yes that is the adapter,the connector is not that bad,internal solders are the problem on some samples.
If you try it please make a report here
Click to expand...
Quick Question...I have the USB-C to VGA adapater...what good would having a displayport female connection be on the sunix card when I have a USB-C to VGA adapter? Is there anything else on top of the Sunix card that I will need?
 
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jyb said:
Quick Question...I have the USB-C to VGA adapater...what good would having a displayport female connection be on the sunix card when I have a USB-C to VGA adapter? Is there anything else on top of the Sunix card that I will need?
Click to expand...

The displayport signal exit from the graphic card and goes in to the Sunix card via the included displayport cable.
From there it passes through the USB crosspoint switch,it selects which lines should go to the USB-C connector (USB from the internal chip or displayport from the input connector)
When the adapter is connected to the Sunix card,it sends a hotplug signal and the card opens the displayport lines to the USB-C connector.
Finally the displayport signal goes to the adapter directly to the Analogix chip.
Practically the Sunix card acts as a displayport to USB-C adapter
The displayport signal of the graphic card cannot pass through the pci express bus,so that displayport cable is the only way.
Look the pictures on this page http://www.sunix.com/en/product_detail.php?cid=1&kid=2&gid=11&pid=1909
 
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Thank you Derupter...i put a order through for the sunix card...waiting in the mail for it and i'll be back here to post my results...Looks like the newegg website has the produce already sold out! I'm happy i got my order through before it sold out :p
 
Is anyone interested in a free copy of Doom 2016 for Steam? I have one key left and this awesome game plays brilliantly on the FW900 because of it's dark setting. On top of that the engine is greatly optimized for PC and uses the Vulkan API.
 
pr0ton said:
Is anyone interested in a free copy of Doom 2016 for Steam? I have one key left and this awesome game plays brilliantly on the FW900 because of it's dark setting. On top of that the engine is greatly optimized for PC and uses the Vulkan API.
Click to expand...
I will take it. My P1130 will enjoy
 
DooLocsta said:
I will take it. My P1130 will enjoy
Click to expand...

I've been enjoying doom lately, here's a little advice for enjoying on a CRT.

Use vsync, it really helps games look super smooth and sharp on CRT's (or any strobing display). But only after you download RTSS and cap your FPS at exactly your refresh rate. There are tutorials on how to do this to the precise decimal, which is what you need to do. That will cut down on the input lag significantly.

I also heard Nvidia plays a little better on OpenGL vs Vulkan, but that was a year or so ago and Nvidia might have their Vulkan driver up to speed now. With AMD, definitely go Vulkan, and make sure you either have AA set to off, or to the maximum setting. Those are the only two settings that will allow your card to enable Async Compute, which makes your GPU even more efficient.
 
EnhancedInterrogator said:
I've been enjoying doom lately, here's a little advice for enjoying on a CRT.

Use vsync, it really helps games look super smooth and sharp on CRT's (or any strobing display). But only after you download RTSS and cap your FPS at exactly your refresh rate. There are tutorials on how to do this to the precise decimal, which is what you need to do. That will cut down on the input lag significantly.

I also heard Nvidia plays a little better on OpenGL vs Vulkan, but that was a year or so ago and Nvidia might have their Vulkan driver up to speed now. With AMD, definitely go Vulkan, and make sure you either have AA set to off, or to the maximum setting. Those are the only two settings that will allow your card to enable Async Compute, which makes your GPU even more efficient.
Click to expand...

agree!,
also dont forget to disable in game graphics settings motion blur.




talking about dark, i have realized that using the lowest black level on crts (so that the black matches the same black looking on the screen when the monitor is off) will make you lose some details in dark areas, so i have to rise a little the black level up to see those details

i have done this test on 2 diferent crts working in excelent condition: my fw900 which as a polarized car coating on it, so also tested on a compaq 7550 17" crt with an unaltered screen to be sure my fw900 coating is not to blame for it, in a complete dark room, at night, and the luminance (contrast) was at its maximum level on both monitors, that included shrinking the horizontal and vertical vieable area on both, to achieve even higher luminance levels and with different color temp settings, but on both monitor i had to rise the black level to see those details.

that's nothing that bothers my really, and blacks still feel black just not as black as when the monitor is off, but let me curious to know if it is posible to achieve absolute black levels wthout losing details on crts??
 
Well, there are two steps to achieve proper display:
1°) Follow the white point balance procedure with Windas if the G2 or some colors have significantly drifted.
2°) Make and load a software color profile using a colorimeter and DisplayCal. This is more accurate and allows to fix little flaws in the monitor's hardware profile. Imperfect gray scale is one of them.
 
EnhancedInterrogator said:
I've been enjoying doom lately, here's a little advice for enjoying on a CRT.

Use vsync, it really helps games look super smooth and sharp on CRT's (or any strobing display). But only after you download RTSS and cap your FPS at exactly your refresh rate. There are tutorials on how to do this to the precise decimal, which is what you need to do. That will cut down on the input lag significantly.

I also heard Nvidia plays a little better on OpenGL vs Vulkan, but that was a year or so ago and Nvidia might have their Vulkan driver up to speed now. With AMD, definitely go Vulkan, and make sure you either have AA set to off, or to the maximum setting. Those are the only two settings that will allow your card to enable Async Compute, which makes your GPU even more efficient.
Click to expand...
Why vsync?
 
3dfan said:
talking about dark, i have realized that using the lowest black level on crts (so that the black matches the same black looking on the screen when the monitor is off) will make you lose some details in dark areas, so i have to rise a little the black level up to see those details

i have done this test on 2 diferent crts working in excelent condition: my fw900 which as a polarized car coating on it, so also tested on a compaq 7550 17" crt with an unaltered screen to be sure my fw900 coating is not to blame for it, in a complete dark room, at night, and the luminance (contrast) was at its maximum level on both monitors, that included shrinking the horizontal and vertical vieable area on both, to achieve even higher luminance levels and with different color temp settings, but on both monitor i had to rise the black level to see those details.

that's nothing that bothers my really, and blacks still feel black just not as black as when the monitor is off, but let me curious to know if it is posible to achieve absolute black levels wthout losing details on crts??
Click to expand...

What strat_84 said.

the WinDAS WPB guide addresses this exact problem.
 
interesting, so that means that only crts equipped with ports compatible with hardware colorimeters are the only ones being able to display absolute black levels without losing detalis in dark scenes it seems.


what about modern oled screens? this makes me remember when i saw an oled lg tv, and the seller told me one of the flaws of the oled tech is precisely "the unability to display detailed things in dark scenes due to its nature. as the led backlight based ones can".
i had my doubts about that, i wish i could get an oled tv or monitor to see a side by side comparison on a crt, or a hardware calibrated crt vs oled in that area.
 
3dfan said:
interesting, so that means that only crts equipped with ports compatible with hardware colorimeters are the only ones being able to display absolute black levels without losing detalis in dark scenes it seems.


what about modern oled screens? this makes me remember when i saw an oled lg tv, and the seller told me one of the flaws of the oled tech is precisely "the unability to display detailed things in dark scenes due to its nature. as the led backlight based ones can".
i had my doubts about that, i wish i could get an oled tv or monitor to see a side by side comparison on a crt, or a hardware calibrated crt vs oled in that area.
Click to expand...
I just figured out though, you put a polarizer film much darker than the original film right ?

Then, make sure to save the current Windas settings of the screen in a file before doing the WPB in case you need to cancel the changes. Some steps in the WPB procedure require to meet brightness values, which must be more or less impossible with a polarizer, I'm not sure what the result will be.

About calibration, you don't need an hardware port on the screen for that. I use a USB colorimeter and step 2°) is relevant for any screen technology. Problems to display details in dark scenes actually come from a bad gray scaling, and that will be fixed on any quality screen with a colorimeter and a software profile. (warning: according to what I read in some tests, proper calibration may be impossible or very difficult on shit screens like some using TN panels, I don't know why exactly)
 
yes, the polarized is darker than the original.

by any chance you know if it is posible to manually edit that software profile, so you can check by your own eyes how the detail level on dark scenes improves while maintaining black levels very low, or a hardware colorimeter is an absolute must for this?
 
Planning on shipping an FW900 across country. Guy who is picking it up and packing it works for Fedex. Monitor has way too high G2 value, but its working. Better than nothing!
 
3dfan said:
yes, the polarized is darker than the original.

by any chance you know if it is posible to manually edit that software profile, so you can check by your own eyes how the detail level on dark scenes improves while maintaining black levels very low, or a hardware colorimeter is an absolute must for this?
Click to expand...
The profile maps the correspondances for millions (?) of color hues and is built by displaying known color patches and comparing to what the colorimeter measures, then fixing the curves to obtain the expected result. Not a single chance to do anything good manually even if there is a way.
 
Strat_84 said:
Make and load a software color profile using a colorimeter and DisplayCal
Click to expand...

So by software color profile, you mean one that's loaded on to your GPU driver or OS, and not stored on the actual monitor? Any trouble with that not loading properly in certain games (I could imagine issues could come up with newer API's like Vulkan and DX12).

Meeho said:
Why vsync?
Click to expand...

It syncs a frame to each vblank interval on your monitor. When you have an exact 1:1 ratio, you can make out more detail when things are in motion. With vsync off, you always have partial or multiple frames in each vblank interval, which creates noise/artifacts, and just looks way worse than vsync on.
 
EnhancedInterrogator said:
So by software color profile, you mean one that's loaded on to your GPU driver or OS, and not stored on the actual monitor? Any trouble with that not loading properly in certain games (I could imagine issues could come up with newer API's like Vulkan and DX12).
Click to expand...
Yes. I've had a few problems in the past indeed (for example when I used Powerstrip), but the newer versions of DisplayCal come with a profile loader that is really effective. So far, I've seen it enforcing calibration profiles in any software I used.
 
Strat_84 said:
Yes. I've had a few problems in the past indeed (for example when I used Powerstrip), but the newer versions of DisplayCal come with a profile loader that is really effective. So far, I've seen it enforcing calibration profiles in any software I used.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Is there any banding from it adjusting colors in the 8-bit color space? Or do these profiles downsample from a higher bitrate before the signal is output out as 8-bit?
 
EnhancedInterrogator said:
It syncs a frame to each vblank interval on your monitor. When you have an exact 1:1 ratio, you can make out more detail when things are in motion. With vsync off, you always have partial or multiple frames in each vblank interval, which creates noise/artifacts, and just looks way worse than vsync on.
Click to expand...
I don't see how it would help with sharpness. Smoothness maybe, but that would depend.
 
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