24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

rabidz7
you can get film from http://www.3dlens.com/shop/
or somewhere else

I applied polarizer with adhesive with great results to image quality but it is darn hard to do it without having air bubbles trapped inside it thus without some equipment to apply film effect is not perfect. In desktop if I used it in desktop it would be visible. In games it doesn't bother me much so I keep it as it is but plan to reapply it in some future as I have more film left.

there is debate about how to best proceed with polarizer. Imho it would be better to try adhesive-less polarizer and UV glue, even if without actually using UV lamp or using it for just a little while to not deteriorate phosphor.

Just be sure your CRT is very bright without any AG because polarizers block most of the light so you need more than 200cd/m2 without polarizer to have 100cd/m2 with it. This ofcourse decrease longevity of the tube. I do not worry because it is very unlikely electronics won't fail before tube is used up so I have "burn tube burn!" policy
pinch.png
 
XoR said:
Just be sure your CRT is very bright without any AG because polarizers block most of the light so you need more than 200cd/m2 without polarizer to have 100cd/m2 with it. This ofcourse decrease longevity of the tube. I do not worry because it is very unlikely electronics won't fail before tube is used up so I have "burn tube burn!" policy
pinch.png
Click to expand...

Running the tube high is precisely what can lead to things like electrical shorts.

p.s. https://houston.craigslist.org/sop/5366776135.html
 
spacediver said:
Will do, sir :)

When I begin testing will depend on my workload over the next two weeks, which I'll have a better idea of soon.
Click to expand...

Sweet. I know I'm sounding like a broken record, but you HAVE to read and understand everything before you attempt anything. This tool, if used wrong, will permanently fuck your monitor up.
 
When i want to White Point Balance calibration HP P1130 which model do i have to choose in WinDas?

Is this the rebrand of the CPD-G520?
 
Been messing around with the osd and was wondering how fine can the geometry be tuned with windas on these? Is it possible to get near perfect geometry and even convergence with windas? Is it even worth messing around with windas if your geometry and convergence is like 8.5/10
 
master noran said:
Been messing around with the osd and was wondering how fine can the geometry be tuned with windas on these? Is it possible to get near perfect geometry and even convergence with windas? Is it even worth messing around with windas if your geometry and convergence is like 8.5/10
Click to expand...

Give us a picture. No CRT is perfect. Some can come close, but in my experience, the only CRT screens I've seen come close to perfection are the CRT's used in projectors. They're small, but still deep, so their deflection angles are small (which is a good thing). And since you're focusing three separate CRT pictures, convergence can get nearly to perfection. It really is something to behold.

Chances are your GDM-FW900 is just fine.

To answer your question, you can go into WinDAS's Touch Up menu and perform a couple of other geometry-tuning adjustments. You can adjust the cupid's bow, s-bow, and their balance. If you shoot a picture and post it we can see if it's worth it or not. Chances are that the convergence can be tightened up considerably but you have to be patient and do it right. I made a geometry and convergence guide that spacediver has - PM him for it.
 
spacediver said:
Running the tube high is precisely what can lead to things like electrical shorts.
Click to expand...
FW900 without AG looked like crap compared to glow-less LCD and CRT I had at work. In fact in some russian review LG Flatron 915ft+ was praised for having best contrast ratio compared to bunch of Trinitrons and Diamondtrons. With polarizer FW900 have contrast ratio on par with this LG 95ft+ but with way better colors (better gamut, ability to set gray ballance, etc) and no glare at all.

Four years I used FW900 without AG it was always irritating. Worst CRT image quality wise I ever used. It imho badly needed fixing and if that decreased its life expectancy then I do not even care because of monitors such as Acer Predator XG270HU. Maybe by the time it dies there will be 24" 1080p version which I would personally prefer over 27"
 
What do you mean by running the tube higher? A high G2 voltage? Wouldn't that wash out the black level?
 
Rabid, I meant driving the cathode with more extreme voltages to produce larger beam currents.

XoR, I wasn't suggesting you change what you were doing. Your previous post suggested that it's likely that the electronics would fail before the tube is used up, so it's ok to run the tube "hotter" (implying that the electronics would fail anyway so might as well enjoy the tube).

My point is that running the tube hotter actually increases the chance of things like electronic shorts.
 
Just Bought two fw900's, Get them in april at a lan party, friend picked them up for me. was wondering if anyone has tested this cable with this monitor.

EDID eprom can be reprogrammed(feature reserved for professionals) on the specs. https://www.hdfury.com/shop/gamer/hdfury-gamer-2-rgbhv/

but I have a nice pair of shielded BNCs too, im picking up the hdfury to test myself out of curiosity. i do plan to get a ps4 so could be useful.

thoughts?
 
spacediver said:
XoR, I wasn't suggesting you change what you were doing. Your previous post suggested that it's likely that the electronics would fail before the tube is used up, so it's ok to run the tube "hotter" (implying that the electronics would fail anyway so might as well enjoy the tube).

My point is that running the tube hotter actually increases the chance of things like electronic shorts.
Click to expand...
I know.
I just explained my motivation to do it and increase risk of earlier monitor death.

But let's hope it will last me until 24" 4K strobed OLED with integer scaling comes out ;)
 
XoR said:
I know.
I just explained my motivation to do it and increase risk of earlier monitor death.

But let's hope it will last me until 24" 4K strobed OLED with integer scaling comes out ;)
Click to expand...

hehe I'm with you on that, though part of me will always miss CRTs. There's just something fundamentally cool about them :)
 
spacediver said:
hehe I'm with you on that, though part of me will always miss CRTs. There's just something fundamentally cool about them :)
Click to expand...

Honestly, even when OLED monitors come out and I inevitably get one, I'm still hanging on to the CRT's because there are still somethings that they will still be better than OLED's at - namely low-res gaming on consoles. Also - even when OLED's come around, it's not like CRT's are going to STOP being good. If OLED's are 98% perfect, then the best CRT's will still be 92 % perfect. And who can say no to that?
 
Mumble said:
Just Bought two fw900's, Get them in april at a lan party, friend picked them up for me. was wondering if anyone has tested this cable with this monitor.

EDID eprom can be reprogrammed(feature reserved for professionals) on the specs. https://www.hdfury.com/shop/gamer/hdfury-gamer-2-rgbhv/

but I have a nice pair of shielded BNCs too, im picking up the hdfury to test myself out of curiosity. i do plan to get a ps4 so could be useful.

thoughts?
Click to expand...

I would go with the standard HDFury 2, it's more versatile and it's cheaper.
 
emailed them today. got this.

Hi there mumble

The gamer2 will do I expect a maximum of 1920x1080p@ 60hz.
The hdfury 4 will do 1920x1200@60hz

We make no device that can do the bandwith you want.

We no longer support modifing EDIDs as we sell the dr hdmi for this purpose.

If you would like to put the specs you want in our upcoming hdfury 5 thread please post here.
http://dme.ghost2.net//forum/viewtopic.php?t=26629

Sorry but the device you want does not exist. The highest bandwith available from us us the hdfury 4. And 1920x1200@60hz is the max for that.

Hope this helps

so this cable maybe only for ps4/xbox one since its limited. but im lost interest since they confirmed it.
 
Yeah, the only things I use the HD Fury for are my PS3, Wii U, and Vita TV. No need for it with most graphics cards. Hopefully the HD Fury 5 will be able to achieve the crazy scanning rates of the internal RAMDAC's.
 
yea if there were to release a module with a ludicrous ramdac bandwith etc etc. since AMD went all digital. that would be great.

So has anyone been able to push this monitor past 2560x1600 yet? I heard on someone was able to run in 4K interlaced but the truth on that seem iffy at best, IMESHO.
 
not sure why you'd want to try that - the image quailty would be awful. You're probably best sticking to 1920x1200.

Also, you should use an Nvidia card, as they have 10 bit DACs (which means you'll be able to use software to calibrate without less chance of banding).
 
Last edited:
yes, I agree the 4ki would look awful(if possible), I can safely say I intend to run these well past the advertised spec of 1920x1200 however when I do get them.
 
EnhancedInterrogator said:
The best for what? I think it would be heavily dependent on the application. Just one example, Street Fighter 5, runs at 60fps, and would be very juddery at 85hz.
Click to expand...

for general desktop use - image quailty is great at 1920x1200 with no flicker. I don't like the flicker at 2304x1440 @ 80hz. Also, 2304 pushes the resolving capability of the FW900 to the point where quality suffers.

Here is a test pattern to demonstrate. It's a black background with two white lines bordering a single black line.

1920 version here

2304 version here

Quake I run 960x600 @ 160hz (250 fps)

Other single player games I run @ 1920x1200 @85hz. I'm sure you could run 1920x1200 @ 60hz if you wanted to reduce judder on 60fps games. 2304x1440 may look better in some contexts, I've just never used it as I hate the flicker.
 
Last edited:
For games, I always felt like the higher the resolution, the better, even if the monitor can't fully resolve every pixel. It works out to be a sort of analog anti-aliasing, the way the pixels blur together.
 
I'm really liking 1152x720 @ 154hz. I'm finding newer games nowadays don't have UI scale or anything so chat boxes are extremely hard to read at anything lower than that.
 
rsfield said:
I'm really liking 1152x720 @ 154hz. I'm finding newer games nowadays don't have UI scale or anything so chat boxes are extremely hard to read at anything lower than that.
Click to expand...
Why 154Hz?
It is possible to use 1152x720@160Hz
though at this number of lines 720 I prefer full 1280x720 to make pixels smaller

I usually play at 1440x900@125Hz. Perfect compromise of pixel size, performance requirements and refresh rate. 1600x900@125Hz for 16:9 ratio.
 
jbltecnicspro said:
I made a geometry and convergence guide that spacediver has - PM him for it.
Click to expand...

Why not make it public? I would gladly read about them, especially geometry adjustment.

Myramond said:
When i want to White Point Balance calibration HP P1130 which model do i have to choose in WinDas?

Is this the rebrand of the CPD-G520?
Click to expand...
Myramond said:
The only P1130 i see in the list is the DELL version.
Click to expand...

Looking at specs : 21" 130kHz it's just rebranded G520 aka Dell P1130, just try any of them and if WinDAS lets you adjust things then you should be good to go.
 
igsux3 said:
Why not make it public? I would gladly read about them, especially geometry adjustment.




Looking at specs : 21" 130kHz it's just rebranded G520 aka Dell P1130, just try any of them and if WinDAS lets you adjust things then you should be good to go.
Click to expand...

I already thought that selecting an other brand of the monitor will work. But just wanted to make sure. Thanks.
 
XoR said:
Why 154Hz?
It is possible to use 1152x720@160Hz
though at this number of lines 720 I prefer full 1280x720 to make pixels smaller

I usually play at 1440x900@125Hz. Perfect compromise of pixel size, performance requirements and refresh rate. 1600x900@125Hz for 16:9 ratio.
Click to expand...

Have you actually tried 1152x720@160Hz? From my experience, it doesn't do anything higher than 154hz in the nvidia control panel. If yours works, I would love to know why mine doesn't lol.

A cool utility that I came across:
Nvidia Custom Resolutions Backup Tool
Backup saved nvidia resolutions
 
rsfield said:
Have you actually tried 1152x720@160Hz? From my experience, it doesn't do anything higher than 154hz in the nvidia control panel. If yours works, I would love to know why mine doesn't lol.

A cool utility that I came across:
Nvidia Custom Resolutions Backup Tool
Backup saved nvidia resolutions
Click to expand...

I dont have a FW900, I have a different CRT. You need to adjust timings if you want 160. Lower the vertical back porch.
 
igsux3 said:
Why not make it public? I would gladly read about them, especially geometry adjustment.
Click to expand...

I have no problems making them public. Right now they're a work-in-progress and will require others with FW900's to contribute. I don't have one anymore. I would be willing to do the CR1 steps though.

Spacediver, or someone with hosting will need to host the guide. I have no problems with anyone hosting it and beefing it up. At this point, it should be complete enough for people to work their displays.
 
igsux3 said:
Looking at specs : 21" 130kHz it's just rebranded G520 aka Dell P1130, just try any of them and if WinDAS lets you adjust things then you should be good to go.
Click to expand...

WinDAS, from what I've observed - operates by chassis. So if your monitor is a CR1, then you will do the same calibration steps as the GDM-F520, Artisan, G520, etc.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top