24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

flod said:
i did adjust the vrm's.


well there are also s pin and c bow or something. but those couldn't really help with the wiggles at the very top and bottom of the screen.
Click to expand...

Cupid's Bow and S-Bow. Take us some pictures and let's see what's up. I can tell you that the alignment procedures in the "procedure" menu won't help much more.
 
flod said:
http://i.imgur.com/T5jbFL0.png

thats the windas adjustment screen

but yea it doesn't really help since my screen's geometry is already quite good

anyway gunna adjust dynamic convergence now... this will be fun.
Click to expand...

Sorry, I meant of the monitor - not the screenshot. :) PM spacediver for my draft of the dynamic convergence, if you 're interested. I'm doing a writeup on that first. Next is geometry.
 
got the rig almost perfect - here's the latest shot:

29xbuwm.jpg
 
how easy or hard is to use one of those color calibrating tools?

CRTs use Voltage Regulator Modules for the focus circuits? If yes i wonder if putting heat sinks on them would help improve their efficiency like it does on motherboards.
 
Good going spacediver.

btw, 1 of my NEC FE2111Sb monitors has a geometry issue at the 1/4 top of the screen, like it is slightly stretched. Any idea how to fix this ?
 
some sleuthing suggests that the FE2111 is the same as the diamondtron 2060u, for which the service manual is over here, which also gives you instructions on how to access service mode (section 2.4).

Let us know if the instructions work
 
I ordered two 10x10cm circular polarizer sheets, one is right handed and other left handed and also 10x10cm linear polarizer sheet. They all have 78% transmittance, 97% polarization quality and 0,18mm thickness. It should be enough to test what polarizers can and cannot do to improve FW900 picture quality and which one to get if I was to spend heavy money to buy large enough polarizer (I basically need 50x30cm)

I found only one shop that have circular polarizers with sheets large enough for FW900 HERE. Its kinda expensive but size is three times what is necessary so I'll most probably sell remaining sheet, maybe even to some FW900 user from [H] :) Its also slightly 'stronger' than testers I bought.
 
cool, look forward to your findings. Do you have a colorimeter or spectroradiometer that can measure the actual reduction in luminance?
 
XoR said:
They all have 78% transmittance, 97% polarization quality
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if 78 refers to the ratio of the filtered polarized light luminance to the incident unpolarized light luminance, well that's not physically possible. well maybe it is if you do some extremely elaborate setup which wouldn't really be possible in a film.

probably they mean that if the incident light is already polarized and aligned with the polarizer, the transmittance would be 78%. This means that unpolarized light will have 39% transmittance. that would be the relevant number for crts since the phosphors emit unpolarized light.

could you link us please?
 
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I got polarizers. They seem to have exactly the same light transmittance which is good for testing.

Results are just as expected: circular polarizer placed in a way that linearly polarized light coming from monitor blow competition out of the water. Glare reduction is just fantastic both from external light sources and illuminated by monitor itself (seeing my reflection or more exactly not seeing it anymore). Flaring/haloing reduction is also visually slightly better with circular polarizer compared to linear one, though here configuration of how I place polarizer doesn't matter that much. Left and right version work the same.

Brightness reduction is quite big, its much darker than original AG. Will test it with spyder3 tomorrow and post some numbers. Its much darker but imho sufficient, especially that it still looks better even with moderately lit room than without any AG cause normally its glare-fest and black is non-existent. Here black is black and haloing and inner glass reflections seems greatly reduced.

I tested original AG if its polarizer after I peeled it off and it was ordinary dark sheet of plastic that reflected light. Sure it helped somehow with light conditioning but compared to magic of circular polarizer it was just crap. With polarizer I have inky blacks like on Samsung Galaxy AMOLED.

I can have lights on in the room and black behind polarizer is much better than on LCD dimmed down to the same level of brightness. Its just ridiculous... :eek:

So now I have no choice but to buy large circular polarizer sheet. After what I saw today it is impossible that I will use FW900 without that polarizer on it :rolleyes:

fSE2ZlL.jpg


This image is kinda bad cause in reality there is no such haloing and its all coming from my crappy phone camera. Its only to show that black are black and there is no glare despite having full lights on.

Now I have to buy large circular polarizer sheet and somehow place it on tube. I am not sure how to do that, what solvent to use. If anyone have any suggestions please feel free to contribute :)
 
very interesting - if it turns out that this polarizer doesn't reduce image clarity, then it may be a good option to reduce glare and halation. The downside would be that you'd need to drive the guns higher to produce the same luminance output, but that's only a downside relative to no anti glare at all (with the stock antiglare you also had to drive guns higher relative to no anti glare).
 
Setup: Macbook -> Mini Display Port -> VGA -> P1130

Created a custom INF and installed it. For 1024*768 @120hz my monitor reads: 99.0kHz / 120Hz. Is it working?
 
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Kzkzpkt said:
Setup: Macbook -> Mini Display Port -> VGA -> P1130

Created a custom INF and installed it. For 1024*768 @120hz my monitor reads: 99.0kHz / 120Hz. Is it working?
Click to expand...

Probably. I haven't done the math but 99 khz looks about right for that resolution and refresh. The fact that it's running at 120hz means it's probably accepted your input.

Sometimes the monitor will give you a read-out of the resolution you're running at, like 1600x1200 75hz. Other resolutions, it won't (1792x1344 75hz just gives me the KHz of the resolution, and not the resolution itself).
 
Just checking if anyone here in/around Ohio would want to barter with me on my 3x A7212A's. I really don't want to sell them. But I'm running short on space to keep them, and I don't really need what they offer me anymore, as I'm not doing 120hz FPS gaming anymore. And I really don't have the time/motivation to buy a eye-one and do a proper windas calibration.

I also have a 4:3 19" Trinitron (Sony G series) that's in pretty good condition for it's age.

I've done my best to describe them here:
http://mansfield.craigslist.org/sop/4606080080.html

Thanks
 
XoR said:
I got polarizers. They seem to have exactly the same light transmittance which is good for testing.

Results are just as expected: circular polarizer placed in a way that linearly polarized light coming from monitor blow competition out of the water. Glare reduction is just fantastic both from external light sources and illuminated by monitor itself (seeing my reflection or more exactly not seeing it anymore). Flaring/haloing reduction is also visually slightly better with circular polarizer compared to linear one, though here configuration of how I place polarizer doesn't matter that much. Left and right version work the same.

Brightness reduction is quite big, its much darker than original AG. Will test it with spyder3 tomorrow and post some numbers. Its much darker but imho sufficient, especially that it still looks better even with moderately lit room than without any AG cause normally its glare-fest and black is non-existent. Here black is black and haloing and inner glass reflections seems greatly reduced.

I tested original AG if its polarizer after I peeled it off and it was ordinary dark sheet of plastic that reflected light. Sure it helped somehow with light conditioning but compared to magic of circular polarizer it was just crap. With polarizer I have inky blacks like on Samsung Galaxy AMOLED.

I can have lights on in the room and black behind polarizer is much better than on LCD dimmed down to the same level of brightness. Its just ridiculous... :eek:

So now I have no choice but to buy large circular polarizer sheet. After what I saw today it is impossible that I will use FW900 without that polarizer on it :rolleyes:

fSE2ZlL.jpg


This image is kinda bad cause in reality there is no such haloing and its all coming from my crappy phone camera. Its only to show that black are black and there is no glare despite having full lights on.

Now I have to buy large circular polarizer sheet and somehow place it on tube. I am not sure how to do that, what solvent to use. If anyone have any suggestions please feel free to contribute :)
Click to expand...
nice, could you take a picture comparing linear vs circular side by side with no image?
 
I have fw900 ..also have two Dell p1130s if anyone wants them before I take them too the dump ..i live in Napa area ..both work great one kinda blue till it warms up the other greensh after they warm up beautiful picture
 
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Here's another shot, but I'm pretty sure it's a diff CRT - there was no continuity between the shots:

241p5hz.png
 
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All Cases of the FW900 rebrands are exactly the same as the original from Sony exept color and logos.
It looks like an 16:10 tube of similar size as the FW900. But hard to tell with this angle.
 
Hey there.

Just registered to get some help with my FW900. I've had it for quite a while and couldn't be happier with it. Managed to fix the convergence using windas and geometry and colors are still pretty good, at least I thought so.

A while ago some problems started occurring: When I cold start the monitor, it would show a complete green picture after a short while and would eventually turn itself off with an orange blinking power LED. I have to cycle the monitor on and off a couple of times (around 3-4 times) until it's warmed up enough to stay at a normal display without red and green popping in.

I recently switched from windows to linux and had EDID problems with the FW900, where it wouldn't show anything upon booting. Switched to my other CRT which is an iiyama vision master pro 514 because of that. Using that monitor surprised me how damn good the blacks are on that monitor compared to the FW900. I would really like to get better blacks on the Sony as well. Is there anything I can do using windas? Maybe its related to the green flicker upon cold start as well, considering I'm on 24 brightness at the moment which is quite low, isn't it? If I want deeper blacks I would have to go even lower but then deep grays become kinda blueish.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
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Hi guys. Just checking to see if that FW900 Windas WPB guide is available. I couldn't find one in the past dozen pages. Looking forward to using my FW900 again.
 
spacediver said:
DispcalGUI uses Argyll as a back end. I prefer to use Argyll directly.

You can use it to create a 1D LUT which will work system wide, and not only for color managed software.

As for Argyll, I need to do a couple more experiments to figure out the best set of switches to use. Part of it depends on whether your black level is measurable or not.

If your black level is really low, try this:

First, type dispwin -c to linearize (reset) the LUT (actually, you should do this before your WPB just to make sure it wasn't altered to begin with. Easy way to find out is to type that command and see if image changes. If it doesn't, then it means you were already on a linear LUT).

Then use

dispcal -m -qm -J -v3 -g2.4 -f1 -k0 -A16 mylutname.cal

(again, turn off lights for this).

After it's done, you can load the LUT using dispwin mylutname.cal
Click to expand...

how would I use this in 3d games? (specifically csgo, which has its own gamma thing that overrides what dispwin does to the desktop)
 
Not sure - I've heard of windowed borderless mode which apparently can prevent games from overriding the pre-established LUT.

btw, I forgot to add the -K switch in my post - this fills the background with black to aid in accurate measurements.
 
hm looks like cpkeeper doesn't work with source games. guess i'll just stick with setting the in-game "brightness" to 1.6 (which i believe is basically changing the 1d lut)
 
I wonder what would happen if you were somehow able to execute the command "dispwin mylut.cal" while in the middle of a fullscreen CSGO game.
 
looks like CSGO has full control over the LUT then. How annoying! What happens if u run it in windowed mode and run the dispwin cmd?
 
the "brightness" option is blacked out

but I'd rather not play windowed or borderless windowed fullscreen because i'm on windows 8 and aero = additional 2 screen refresh's amount of lag.
 
yes it is (http://superuser.com/questions/581673/disable-desktop-composition-in-windows-8-force-it)
but the startmenu becomes blacked out


I have a windows 7 install too where disabling compositing works flawlessly.
still I feel uneasy with using borderless windowed even with compositing off because:

me@blurbusters said:
btw something else weird with nvidia:

when you have vsync off, and you drag something around with the mouse, you get tearing. if you have a 500 or 1000hz mouse, there are many many tears every frame because the mouse position updates several time over a refresh period.

the expected behavior is that the tear lines are all over the place. indeed, this is what i've seen with my gtx 460 and my laptop with integrated intel graphics. but for some reason, in my newer gtx 750ti, when I run windows 7 with aero disabled, that isn't the behavior. basically, at 60hz, the top half of the screen doesn't tear, but the tear lines are all concentrated at the bottom of the screen. i have no idea wtf is going on with that, but fortunately the tear lines behave normally in fullscreen games.
Click to expand...

but anyway setting the brightness to 1.6 is sufficient for me. i'm not too concerned about visual fidelity in csgo, since it doesn't look spectacular regardless.
 
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