24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

spacediver

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So I finally got round to getting WinDAS to work (somewhat). Tested it out with my IBM P275.

It took me a while to get the cable to work - had to do some trial and error with the tx/rx order, and then had to figure out the right com port, etc.

First thing I did was backup the existing settings into a .dat file. Or at least I tried to. The screen blanked (as I understand it should). But then it never unblanked. I connected my vid card to my other monitor to see what was going on, and I saw this error in WinDAS:

2i8dnd4.png


When I click on ok, a different error pops up:

295esso.png



The errors keep alternating, and nothing gets rid of it, except forcing windas to shut down. Monitor is fine after a reboot, so it didn't screw anything up.

I have a feeling it might be my particular winDAS installation, but am not sure.

Can anyone who has successfully used WinDAS point me to the installation files they used (and any instructions that could help in getting it to work).

I'm on XP.

thanks!
 

spacediver

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hmm, reading through this thread, the problem may be my connector. I got a cheap $5 usb to ttl - looks like this

Can anyone recommend a USB connector that worked for them? I don't want to have to do any soldering or electronics stuff, if possible.
 

jbltecnicspro

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I can't read your errors, but I myself don't use that setup. I use the RLC3 TTL-to-USB

http://www.piclist.com/techref/io/serial/RLC3.htm

And so far so good for me. This may be a dumb question, but you're selecting the proper model monitor in WinDAS, yes?

EDIT: You using compatibility mode? I get the best results when I run in Win 98/ME mode.
 

spacediver

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first error is: "Format FIX data is missing!"
second is: ESC2 ERROR Code :FFFFF002

I'm using winxp.

I'll test on another monitor, and see what happens. thanks for the advice!

When u ordered that RLC3 cable, did you have to reorder the pin arrangement? And did you need drivers?
 

jbltecnicspro

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first error is: "Format FIX data is missing!"
second is: ESC2 ERROR Code :FFFFF002

I'm using winxp.

I'll test on another monitor, and see what happens. thanks for the advice!

When u ordered that RLC3 cable, did you have to reorder the pin arrangement? And did you need drivers?

I needed drivers, and I needed to reorder the pins. The second part is easier than it sounds. Simply start with the ground and work your way down (can't remember the exact order) and tape all heads together to make a single, four-pin connector. Doing this will make it easier to get the cable in. I posted the drivers on a hosting account I have. PM me for the link.
 

Ashratt

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i used this one
ebay

as long as it has the cp2102 chip all of them should work; i'm not sure if i had to install the driver under windows xp, if you need them i think i still have them somewhere on my hdd.
 

spacediver

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i used this one
ebay

as long as it has the cp2102 chip all of them should work; i'm not sure if i had to install the driver under windows xp, if you need them i think i still have them somewhere on my hdd.

oooh nice, that looks easy to set up.
 

Ashratt

Limp Gawd
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Aug 2, 2013
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131
nope, i just got some generic windas.exe is not working anymore massage so i think it had something to do with windows but after rebooting everything, it decided to work (i was using an old laptop with xp, now a virtual machine with xp, no problems with that so far)
 

jz1

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Hi, I just bought sony gdm-f520, and it's great and everything(way sharper than my old samsung 1100df), but I have an issue with black levels. If the majority of the screen is a dark image then the whole screen is covered in blue tint. Movies are unwatchable, games look decent as long as it's a bright game. Best part is, it doesn't occur when the OSD is open or a white area(like this comment box) is visible...
I'm using the vga connection with dvi->vga converter on 8600gt card if that helps, but I guess like I have read elsewhere, the problem is in the g2 voltage... How can I adjust it on this monitor? I don't see the communication port, so I haven't even bothered trying to get windas working and getting a cable. Is it even possible to adjust it on this monitor? Will it help with the blue tint issue? Thanks.
 

spacediver

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first thing, do a color restore (I'm assuming the GDM F520 has one!).

If, after doing that, the screen is really dark, despite having appropriate brightness/contrast levels, and/or the blue tint is severe, then you may need a windas adjustment (and i would invest in a good spectro and/or colorimeter to go through the white balance procedure).

If the blue tint is not that severe, then you can try adjusting it using the expert color controls (RGB gain and bias).

See this guide for some information on how you might do that.
 

jz1

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Image restore does not help. Tried changing some color settings etc. but nothing works.
It's pretty bad, I mean post screen looks like BSOD...
 

spacediver

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A windas color adjustment may help fix the image, but it may not fix the underlying problem if there is indeed one (such as faulty circuitry or problem with electron gun). Worth trying out, and I'm sure there's a service port so you can use windas. Given that the problem is so severe, you can do the white balance adjustment by eye, and see if at least that makes it better than this extreme tint.

If it's a problem with the gun/circuitry, I highly recommend watching these videos - randy fromm's crt monitor repair series - almost 8 hours of crt goodness. I've onyl watched the first 1 and a half, because they went offline for a few months (and just came back online):

http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLAC3CD6EF86D487DA

If, after watching those videos, you're feeling up for it, try to find yourself a second hand sencore CR-70, and also read this:

http://www.thegleam.com/ke5fx/crt/sencrt.pdf

I'm sure Unkle Vito will have a much better set of hypotheses about what your issue is, but can't hurt to start educating yourself in the mean time. The F520 is a wonderful piece of technology.
 

LAGRUNAUER

Gawd
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Dec 7, 2006
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745
Hi, I just bought sony gdm-f520, and it's great and everything(way sharper than my old samsung 1100df), but I have an issue with black levels. If the majority of the screen is a dark image then the whole screen is covered in blue tint. Movies are unwatchable, games look decent as long as it's a bright game. Best part is, it doesn't occur when the OSD is open or a white area(like this comment box) is visible...
I'm using the vga connection with dvi->vga converter on 8600gt card if that helps, but I guess like I have read elsewhere, the problem is in the g2 voltage... How can I adjust it on this monitor? I don't see the communication port, so I haven't even bothered trying to get windas working and getting a cable. Is it even possible to adjust it on this monitor? Will it help with the blue tint issue? Thanks.

Based on your description, and again, without performing a complete diagnostic on it, your monitor may have either a bad gun(s) - there are three on this monitor -, and/or a bad color transistor(s) - there are three on this monitor as well-.

The transistor issue can be fixed but if the unit has faulty gun(s), the tube is done. The only way to check these faults is with specialized CRT testing equipment and instrumentation.

Hope this helps...

Sincerely,

Unkle Vito!
 

jbltecnicspro

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Based on your description, and again, without performing a complete diagnostic on it, your monitor may have either a bad gun(s) - there are three on this monitor -, and/or a bad color transistor(s) - there are three on this monitor as well-.

The transistor issue can be fixed but if the unit has faulty gun(s), the tube is done. The only way to check these faults is with specialized CRT testing equipment and instrumentation.

Hope this helps...

Sincerely,

Unkle Vito!


Is the Sencore CR-70 a good tool to use for this? Also - I noticed that WinDAS has an "Aging" feature in it. What is this, and when should we use this? Thanks!

EDIT: Wrong question (because you've answered this already). I guess my question is - why should I not get a Sencore CR-70 versus a 7000. Both, at the core - will test my tubes for bad guns and shorts, correct?
 
Last edited:

Pyrocles

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I'm wondering if anyone has any ideas about how to fix a rotation problem that my FW900 is experiencing. The screen is permanently rotated about 10 degrees counterclockwise, and cannot be corrected using the rotation control on the OSD.

In fact, if I try to correct the rotation by rotating the image clockwise using the OSD, the screen begins flickering. This flickering increases as the OSD rotation level reaches 100, and stops almost completely when the OSD rotation level is placed at 0. The screen's actual rotation never changes, though; it's stuck at about 10 degrees.
 

jbltecnicspro

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Does it make any sounds as it's flickering? I'm thinking it could be a bad flyback. I'm not sure though. I know with WinDAS it's editable.
 

herpderp

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I've got a non-functioning FW900 for parts/repair in Ann Arbor, MI. If anyone's interested, and can pick it up, send me an IM and maybe we can work something out.
 

LAGRUNAUER

Gawd
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Dec 7, 2006
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745
Is the Sencore CR-70 a good tool to use for this? Also - I noticed that WinDAS has an "Aging" feature in it. What is this, and when should we use this? Thanks!

EDIT: Wrong question (because you've answered this already). I guess my question is - why should I not get a Sencore CR-70 versus a 7000. Both, at the core - will test my tubes for bad guns and shorts, correct?

Both the Sencore CR-70 and the CR-7000 are specialty CRT testing tools that, if not used properly, will burn your CRT beyond repair.

Before you attempt to purchase either, become familiar with its use, specially with how to identify the specific tube and how connect the correct adapter to the neck of the CRT. This is one of many processed to do before you start testing a particular CRT.

Hope this helps...

Sincerely,

Unkle Vito!
 

LAGRUNAUER

Gawd
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I know. I was just making absolutely sure before dropping the cash on one. :D

Before you spend money on these instruments, make absolutely sure you know what you are doing. These instruments, if not used properly, will burn the CRT beyond repair.

First, educate yourself by becoming familiar with the functioning and use of these instruments, then learn how to recognize and read CRT codes, and the CRT pinouts. These are key elements in selecting the correct adapters. Without any knowledge of the CRT pinouts, you may risk connecting the adapter wrong, and if this happens, kiss your CRT good bye...

Both the CR-70 and CR-7000 are good tools in CRT testing, and we have both in our lab.

Hope this helps...

Sincerely,

Unkle Vito!
 
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spacediver

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there are some youtube videos that show how to use a CR-70, and if you do end up buying one, be sure to check that it comes with the manuals.

Here is the operation manual, and here is the setup book (you'll need this to figure out which adaptor to use with your CRT and what parameters to use).
 

jbltecnicspro

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I have a few other screens that I can do trial runs on - screens that I don't care about. :) I'll try the CR-70 on those first. :D
 

LAGRUNAUER

Gawd
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745
Anyone who would like to see a brand new GDM-FW900 in its original box and packing, send me a PM. Found one on my warehouse.

Unkle Vito!
 

atwix

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Oct 7, 2012
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heh.. you just happened to find it after 10 years in yer stock? That sounds weird..

but sure, i'm curious :)
 

LAGRUNAUER

Gawd
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heh.. you just happened to find it after 10 years in yer stock? That sounds weird..

but sure, i'm curious :)

We are moving to a larger location, and found several boxes wrongly stored in an area where several pallets were stacked 3-high, and this box, along with others were stored behind them in a corner area. No way to look behind the pallet's wall until they were all moved. Also, I found a brand new in box Sony CPD-E540 Black.

PM me if you want to see some photos...

Unkle Vito!
 

LAGRUNAUER

Gawd
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Dec 7, 2006
Messages
745
I never posted any photos in this forum before. Pardon my ignorance, but if someone can be kind enough to show me how to do it, I would really appreciate it.

Thanks so much in advanced!

Sincerely,

Luis G.
Unkle Vito!
 
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