24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

Bought a new NEC FP2141SB CRT as a spare. Ran through test patterns with excellent results. Except with regard to clarity, where I'm afraid it's no F520 (sharp corner to corner) or FW900 (sharp center, plus edges, though less sharp, that no other CRT monitor even has...)

At least with those two tubes, Sony went out on a high note...still such a shame they went out...but anyway...
 
OK I need some help, my FW900 appears to be putting off some death rattles.:(

Whenever I turn the monitor on "cold" for the first 15-20 seconds the monitor will flicker red (though I can still see what the monitor is actually displaying). This is accompanied by a faint buzzing/humming sound coming from the back of the monitor which is there when it isn't flickering red and silent when it is. sometimes it flickers so much the monitor shuts itself off. However when i turn it back on it may flicker a few times but it's then fine. It is completely fine after those 15-20 seconds and the slight buzzing/humming sound is gone.

It does appear to be slowly getting worse. If there is anything I can do to slow it or actually fix it, let me know.
 
OK I need some help, my FW900 appears to be putting off some death rattles.:(

Whenever I turn the monitor on "cold" for the first 15-20 seconds the monitor will flicker red (though I can still see what the monitor is actually displaying). This is accompanied by a faint buzzing/humming sound coming from the back of the monitor which is there when it isn't flickering red and silent when it is. sometimes it flickers so much the monitor shuts itself off. However when i turn it back on it may flicker a few times but it's then fine. It is completely fine after those 15-20 seconds and the slight buzzing/humming sound is gone.

It does appear to be slowly getting worse. If there is anything I can do to slow it or actually fix it, let me know.

Sounds like high-voltage issue to me. If it's just flickering red, perhaps there is a cold join at the CRT neck. If you run the high-voltage test from the Nokia Monitor Test (or just find a rapidly alternating bright white/black pattern), that should stress the flyback and if the monitor goes into protection mode, you'll need the replaced/repaired.

The bright-side is that any local shop with experience in CRTs can do that for you. Flybacks are an integral part of CRT displays, and you can't call yourself a CRT tech unless you can replace 'em in your sleep.
 
Sounds like high-voltage issue to me. If it's just flickering red, perhaps there is a cold join at the CRT neck. If you run the high-voltage test from the Nokia Monitor Test (or just find a rapidly alternating bright white/black pattern), that should stress the flyback and if the monitor goes into protection mode, you'll need the replaced/repaired.

The bright-side is that any local shop with experience in CRTs can do that for you. Flybacks are an integral part of CRT displays, and you can't call yourself a CRT tech unless you can replace 'em in your sleep.

And if it is the flyback transformer and there's no suitable tech in your area, they are very easy to replace with minimal soldering experience and a little confidence.
 
thanks for the reply. How long should the high voltage test have to run before it goes into protection mode? I just ran it for ~7 minutes and everything seemed fine.
 
thanks for the reply. How long should the high voltage test have to run before it goes into protection mode? I just ran it for ~7 minutes and everything seemed fine.

Actually, a shoddy flyback usually drops out on the first few white/black flashes, so that's a good sign. Can you do an Image Restoration successfully, or does the monitor powerdown before completion?
 
Actually, a shoddy flyback usually drops out on the first few white/black flashes, so that's a good sign. Can you do an Image Restoration successfully, or does the monitor powerdown before completion?

I did one just yesterday to see if it would have any effect. It didn't, but it did complete successfully.
 
I've found that if i knock on the back part of the monitor while it's still doing the buzzing sound it will cause the red to flash. Doing the same thing after the buzzing stops (after it's been on 30s or so?) does nothing.
 
Hi guys, I have a few questions about this screen, as I just went to look at one today, there hasn't been one for sale in my country for months (or years). The monitor is in pretty good condition, December 2001, but apparently bought new in 2006, hasn't been used before then, and very lightly. I don't know how to check exact hours but I doubt it has more than 4000-5000, if that. The plastic has a few scratches here and there, nothing too terrible though, and there is one or two stripes on the AG coating, hopefully I won't mind them too much. The seller told me the coating can be replaced though, apparently he called Sony about it and they can do it, is this true?

When he turned it on, the blacks were green and virtually nonexistant. I was in awe at how bad it looked, but I remembered the Image Restoration feature to the rescue. We waited for around 30 minutes for the monitor to warm up while talking about it, then I asked him had he ever used the image restoration feature, he said that he never used it and doesn't know what it is :D He said the blacks are like this all the time and that the monitor takes no time to warm up :)confused: - meanwhile I am thinking, what blacks? :p) So once the IR feature started working, I put the contrast and brightness to 80% then let it run, was quite quick compared to my EIZO, then when it ended and I brought the brightness down to about 40% and these pitch blacks popped out, he was like "Wow...umm, what did you just do?" and I was like "Whew, this is more like it." Haha. I also fixed every issue he mentioned to me including a purple corner (landing). I've been reading this monitor's manual so much I know more than some people that have it, so it must have been a bit embarassing... I just did it to see if it could be fixed so I know what problems are left - but I was actually afraid he would stop selling it now :D Good thing his reason was -lack of space-. And I forgot - this thing is way larger than I imagined, and it is the most awesome looking CRT I have ever seen. Just seeing one IRL makes me feel priviledged, and I actually got to play some games right there on his screen. He let me test everything with the tools that I had brought, great guy. I am in awe at this screen now.

Which leads me to:

1. Is it normal for there to be a slight buzz while the monitor is running from the back? I realise several thousand volts of electricity and all that stuff in the back can't be dead silent, you can only hear it if you put your ear on the top of the grille.

2. How to check number of working hours on this monitor? Service mode or something?

3. What would be the best way to transport it in the trunk of a car, I mean in what position? I'm thinking putting styrofoam on the bottom, then a blanket on the styrofoam, put the monitor upside-down with the stand up and the screen facing the seats, then stuff a lot of pillows between it and the edges of the trunk so the screen can't move around at all. My main concern is something doesn't scratch (screen) or break. I think this would be a good idea.

4. How do you guys get widescreen resolutions using the BNC cable? He wasn't able to, something about his drivers not letting him, probably not getting the EDID info. Would powerstrip fix this, or adding custom resolutions to ATI's drivers using the NonStandardModes registry tweak?
 
About transporting the monitor.. I would just put it in the back seat with the screen against the back seat and put a blanket around it also for padding. Seat belt would be good as well if you can and also adjust the front seat back so it holds the monitor in place.

No idea if you can still get a replacement anti-glare coating or not but i do you that you can remove the coating from the screen and it will look brand new again.. just need to adjust the brightness as it will be a little brighter looking without the anti-glare coating on it. DIrections are baried in this thread and a few people have done it and me as well.

Buzzing me be a cap going... or transformer.. just guessing and i'm sure someone will chime in with an answer. If you see nothing wrong then dont worry about it.

Make sure to have good support for the monitor as its a heavy beast and i made a brace for it out of a couple of 2x4s.
 
1. Is it normal for there to be a slight buzz while the monitor is running from the back? I realize several thousand volts of electricity and all that stuff in the back can't be dead silent, you can only hear it if you put your ear on the top of the grille.

I don't hear it on any of mine. And I have 3...

2. How to check number of working hours on this monitor? Service mode or something?

I am not sure if this is possible. It may require windas or to cut it in half and count the rings.

3. What would be the best way to transport it in the trunk of a car, I mean in what position? I'm thinking putting styrofoam on the bottom, then a blanket on the styrofoam, put the monitor upside-down with the stand up and the screen facing the seats, then stuff a lot of pillows between it and the edges of the trunk so the screen can't move around at all. My main concern is something doesn't scratch (screen) or break. I think this would be a good idea.

Front passenger seat sitting up correctly facing the seatback. Seatbelt on or tie-down strap around seat.

4. How do you guys get widescreen resolutions using the BNC cable? He wasn't able to, something about his drivers not letting him, probably not getting the EDID info. Would powerstrip fix this, or adding custom resolutions to ATI's drivers using the NonStandardModes registry tweak?

What Operating system and Video card? I have Win7 and a ATi4890 so disabling the EDID and setting it is pretty simple. See this post. http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1035853986&postcount=6125


Other Note. Removing the Anti-Glare is probably what you will have to do if its badly scratched. I find it much better an image once removed.
 
1. Is it normal for there to be a slight buzz while the monitor is running from the back? I realise several thousand volts of electricity and all that stuff in the back can't be dead silent, you can only hear it if you put your ear on the top of the grille.

Yes.

2. How to check number of working hours on this monitor? Service mode or something?

Has come up before, but have never seen anyone answer that there is a counter. I also don't think there is a counter on the Sonys...

There was a discussion, I think here, where someone had bought a "new" Diamondtron monitor, only to see some crazy number of hours on the counter that those display have. In any case, we know yours has got some hours on it...but sounds like it cleaned up nicely...

Finally...Just seeing one IRL makes me feel priviledged...indeed, they really are awesome...
 
Last edited:
4. How do you guys get widescreen resolutions using the BNC cable? He wasn't able to, something about his drivers not letting him, probably not getting the EDID info. Would powerstrip fix this, or adding custom resolutions to ATI's drivers using the NonStandardModes registry tweak?

Search my posts. I posted all my trouble shooting and how I was finally able to get DVI to BNC working by removing two pins on the DVI cable (which registers EDID).

Works great and I have all kinds of resolutions for widescreen along with the refresh rates I want. This is a must if you are using nVidia and nVision but the main reason I did it is ATI drivers suck with CRT.

Here are the two pins I removed with needle nose pliers.
608
 
Last edited:
Hey all

I got a brand new p1110 today but there was a problem with removing the sticker from the front of the monitor. When I took off the sticker there is now a very reflective and slightly discolored rectangle there. It isn't a big deal at all, but i d like to get rid of it the right way.

Otherwise than that.... Wowage.
 
Also getting some type of weird "out of scan range" on some games, like vampire bloodlines and stalker clear sky. win 7 issue? using gtx 460 on win 7 64 pro 260.99 drivers.no problems with other applications, web, photoshop, editing programs..... just a few games..
 
this is a picture that i will always remember as one of the worst days of my life

http://img262.imageshack.us/i/whatimissed.png/

this guy was selling 4 fw900's for 350.sek wich is roughly 30$ and here comes the topper he was selling all 4 OF THEM for 30$ 10$ each

but i guess one good thing came out of it who knows i contacted the seller that i wanted the buyers email adress i emailed teh buyer and he might sell me one he'll know next week see how that goes

FOUR OF THEM FOR 30$ this should be rememberd forever
 
That sucks, good luck maybe you get one from the other guy.

I'm going to pick mine up next week, I hope I won't mind the screen scratches that much... there are only about 2-3 vertical scratches, I only saw them on a white screen. I contacted the Sony service and they say the anti-glare is "a part of the screen" (WTF, it's just a sheet that was glued on top) and can't be replaced, does removing it introduce a lot more glare ? Also, if you remove it does the screen look gray like on the old TVs? That is what happened to my EIZO when I removed the AG sheet.

I still don't get why this can't be replaced, it's just a freakin' dark plastic sheet (like the one used on car windows but much thinner) glued on top of the screen, why they make such a big deal out of this I have no idea. IF I could at least know the material it is made out of I'd contact some company to make one for me in the size of the FW900 with an adhesive backing and that would be the same thing, I just don't fancy having the bare glass exposed (and making my room dark as a cave if I want blacks during the day) because then whatever scratch happens ends up on the glass and that's irreversible.
 
does removing it introduce a lot more glare ? Also, if you remove it does the screen look gray like on the old TVs?
Not unless you have light shinning directly on it which you won't. And I wouldn't even bother replacing it. Just re-calibrate after its off and you will be fine.
 
I have read bits and pieces of this thread. I'm just wondering, what's so awesome about this monitor?
 
1. It's a CRT.
2. It's a 24" CRT.
3. It's a 16:10 CRT.
4. It does 2304 x 1440 @ 80 Hz which is far beyond and above Full HD LCD's.
5. It has quite possibly the truest colors a PC monitor has reproduced to this day.
6. Extremely good geometry, uniformity, focus (for a CRT monitor) etc., when adjusted properly.
7. It offers great resolution and refresh rate flexibility.
8. It's the best looking CRT you can get in this day and age (IMO, anyway).
9. It will do a great job of telling you if your desk is good or not, possibly within seconds.
10. Whoever tries to steal it will have a really bad day.

And more...you'll have to own it to discover everything though.

Some complaints people have is weight, why? Set it and forget it. If you're gonna go to LANs get a 15" LCD for that and have done with it. Image quality at home is more important than the occasional LAN you're going to go to. So weight really isn't an issue. Unless you use desks like this, then you deserve to be punished.
Size is also not that bad for a 24" screen, especially if you have a corner table like I do, it will fit right in (yeah yeah, that's what she said :p) So there.
 
1. It's a CRT.
2. It's a 24" CRT.
3. It's a 16:10 CRT.
4. It does 2304 x 1440 @ 80 Hz which is far beyond and above Full HD LCD's.
5. It has quite possibly the truest colors a PC monitor has reproduced to this day.
6. Extremely good geometry, uniformity, focus (for a CRT monitor) etc., when adjusted properly.
7. It offers great resolution and refresh rate flexibility.
8. It's the best looking CRT you can get in this day and age (IMO, anyway).
9. It will do a great job of telling you if your desk is good or not, possibly within seconds.
10. Whoever tries to steal it will have a really bad day.

And more...you'll have to own it to discover everything though.

Some complaints people have is weight, why? Set it and forget it. If you're gonna go to LANs get a 15" LCD for that and have done with it. Image quality at home is more important than the occasional LAN you're going to go to. So weight really isn't an issue. Unless you use desks like this, then you deserve to be punished.
Size is also not that bad for a 24" screen, especially if you have a corner table like I do, it will fit right in (yeah yeah, that's what she said :p) So there.

Thanks, Actually I just gave away my last CRT (had the best color I've ever seen) because I have a desk like that. Plus I multi-monitor. I just cant see using multiple CRTs.
 
Last edited:
I see, well that is nice to hear. The EIZO I am writing on right now had a wide scratch that I just couldn't live with and had to peel it off. I've had to cover up all my windows with blankets to bring the light level in the room down enough during the day so that the blacks would be acceptable. It is still not as good as during the night, but good enough. However, the screen became much more bright and clear, and during the night, the image is absolutely fantastic. I just regret buying a Razer mouse with a bright green light glowing inside of it, as it is now it is making the screen green when my hand doesn't cover it up :)

It's a real shame I cannot find one with an intact screen (these monitors pop up here once every 2-3 years), but I will rather have one with a slightly scratched screen (or without the AG) than no FW900 at all ;)

P.S. These guys seem to manufacture some kind of anti-glare sheets which are apparently suitable for CRT's, it would be nice to test some of those films to see if they could be used to replace the factory coating, they might be similar.
 
Last edited:
You have it off on yours? Are the black levels still as good with it off?

The blacks are 95% as good I would say. The real benefit are the white's and colors. They improve In brightness 10-20% while keeping within perfect accuracy as long as you calibrate it afterward. EDIT: Another consideration is that the anti-glare is also the anti-static coating so you have to do a bit more upkeep to keep it clean.

P.S. These guys seem to manufacture some kind of anti-glare sheets which are apparently suitable for CRT's, it would be nice to test some of those films to see if they could be used to replace the factory coating, they might be similar.

An interesting concept. If you get the monitor and remove the damaged one feel free to try that and let us know.
 
you know how fw900 have all sorts of problems with late ati cards. i have hd5870 and it sucks. will gtx580 solve everything?
 
The blacks are 95% as good I would say. The real benefit are the white's and colors. They improve In brightness 10-20% while keeping within perfect accuracy as long as you calibrate it afterward. EDIT: Another consideration is that the anti-glare is also the anti-static coating so you have to do a bit more upkeep to keep it clean.



An interesting concept. If you get the monitor and remove the damaged one feel free to try that and let us know.

Yes...quite used to that, have to wipe the screen on a daily basis as it is.

you know how fw900 have all sorts of problems with late ati cards. i have hd5870 and it sucks. will gtx580 solve everything?

What problems? Mostly all can be solved by editing the registry and with PowerStrip.
 
My only problem is not being able to see any options anywhere to select the max rez of 2304 x 1440 @ 80 Hz. I am currently on XP, with the FW900 drivers installed, so it is not issues with the OS. The max rez offered is 1920X1200, in both system properties and the ATI CCC. I assume it is the ATI card which is a HD4850. I am going to upgrade sooner than later and when I do I am going with Nvidia. Maybe it will work fully with the FW900.

I shouldn't have to edit the registry or use Powerstrip to get the monitor to display properly, the monitor should just work. Especially with the drivers installed and running a supported OS.
 
If the driver is installed, 2304x1440 should be available. However, you either need to get EDID working (by using VGA or removing pins when using a BNC cable) or disable EDID and set the maximum resolution/hz. You still need to edit the registry to run at the more useful resolution/hz combinations.

With EDID disabled you will get settings such as 1024x768@160hz listed, which the monitor cannot display. Some games use this for start-up screens and will cause an out of range message.

Adding multiple hz values for each resolution in the registry can confuse a number of games. If you have 1440x900 @ 100hz AND 120hz, some games will choose the wrong one and ignore your current desktop setting.
 
I don't get anything above 1920x1200 on my 4890 in win7 but that is as high as I care to run anyways. Just disabled the EDID in the CCC and set it there.
 
I don't get anything above 1920x1200 on my 4890 in win7 but that is as high as I care to run anyways. Just disabled the EDID in the CCC and set it there.

Same here. It seems to be what the monitor is most comfortable with. But it is capable of being bumped up to 2304X1440 and I would at least like to see what my games would look like at that rez, even if I decided to keep things at 1920X1200 for performance reasons or whatever. The recommended rez of 1920X1200 is fine, no complaints here about how my games look. I just don't understand why it is such a struggle to get the FW900 beyond that when I am using XP with the FW900 drivers installed. BNC cables are supported, they are right there in the manual and the connectors are on the back of the monitor. The only link in my system that isn't specifically supported in the FW900 manual is the ATI HD 4850 video card. That and my Dual link DVI to VGA adapter. Everything else involved is vintage hardware and software.
 
Black levels are stellar without hte AG, so long as no ambient light is reflecting.

We have done extensive WinDAS/WinCAT white point balance adjustments and color calibrations test runs on several GDM-FW900 monitors with the AG film and without the AG film, and from the results we've have concluded that the monitors that had the AG film OFF produced far better black/gray/color calibration results and superior picture quality than the ones with the AG film ON. These results were so conclusive that we no longer sell GDM-FW900 with the AG film on and we began advising our customers to consider removing the AG film in order to achieve better color calibration, black levels, color purity and picture quality. I understand than without the AG film there will be some static buildup on the screen which indeed will attract dust, but there are antistatic screen cleaners that could be used in order to reduce static build up.

Hope this helps....

Sincerely,

Unkle Vito!
 
We have done extensive WinDAS/WinCAT white point balance adjustments and color calibrations test runs on several GDM-FW900 monitors with the AG film and without the AG film, and from the results we've have concluded that the monitors that had the AG film OFF produced far better black/gray/color calibration results and superior picture quality than the ones with the AG film ON. These results were so conclusive that we no longer sell GDM-FW900 with the AG film on and we began advising our customers to consider removing the AG film in order to achieve better color calibration, black levels, color purity and picture quality. I understand than without the AG film there will be some static buildup on the screen which indeed will attract dust, but there are antistatic screen cleaners that could be used in order to reduce static build up.

Hope this helps....

Sincerely,

Unkle Vito!

The GDM-F520 (and I assume the FW900 is same or similar) has spectacular dynamic range versus other technologies (and also superior static contrast for a CRT). Along with fantastic color and blacks. All with the AG film, which I assume was carefully engineered.

You are recommending removal of AG film that is perfectly intact?

Do you have any dynamic range measurements or static contrast measurements before and after?

Is your goal to make them brighter and more competitive with LCD in non-light controlled environments?
 
Hi all. I got a problem with my FW900 that seams to be getting worse.

When the monitor is cold, I start it up and the screen begins to turn all sorts of different colors. Sometimes it would even turn full blue, the colors converge into a swirl, and the monitor turns off with the power light flashing. I can turn it back on with the screen being most of a green color, but it does turn to normal after 10-15 minutes.

This has progressively been getting worse and worse with the monitor cycling through all sorts of different colors and turning itself off faster. Lately, all I have been doing is keeping the monitor on and having the computer with an all black screen for the screen saver.

I'm scared of even turning it off thinking that the next time I turn it on, it may not even be able to stay on.

After the initial 10-15 minutes, she is perfectly fine with no artifacts, no noises, nothing. It seams that after it is warmed up, it is as if the monitor is good as knew.

Has anyone experienced this and does anyone have any clue what this is and possibly repair cost?
 
I downloaded this picture of a leopard and set it to my desktop http://interfacelift.com/wallpaper_beta/details/2219/where_is_my_prey?.html

I selected the option of 16:9 at a rez of 2560 X1440 and I have never seen a more stunning image on a PC monitor! This could be the poster boy for the image quality of the FW900 :eek:

Like I say, I set it as my desktop and it looks like I could reach out and pet him. I can see the individual red veins in his eyeballs! Sry for freaking out over this, but I really have never seen a better image on any PC monitor than this cat on my desktop, ever. If you have a FW900 check it out.
 
we've have concluded that the monitors that had the AG film OFF produced far better black/gray/color calibration results and superior picture quality than the ones with the AG film ON.
Hope this helps....

Glad to hear I am not crazy..

You are recommending removal of AG film that is perfectly intact?

It's just like the sixties!! Take that bra off and burn it!

Hi all. I got a problem with my FW900 that seams to be getting worse.

HORROR HORROR HORROR

Has anyone experienced this and does anyone have any clue what this is and possibly repair cost?

Not a clue dude. I wish you luck with your baby.

I have never seen a more stunning image on a PC monitor! This could be the poster boy for the image quality of the FW900 :eek:

It is going in my folder of Incredible backgrounds for the FW900. I usually troll wallbase.net and there are a ton of colorful, quality, high res anime, nudes, awesome and unique walls on there.

http://wallbase.net/wallpaper/853467 or http://wallbase.net/wallpaper/846813
or http://wallbase.net/wallpaper/859219
 
Back
Top