24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

Discussion in 'Displays' started by mathesar, Sep 13, 2005.

  1. Rock&Roll

    Rock&Roll [H]ard|Gawd

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    not everyone has the same pages as you do. This thread is only 160 pages for me. Post# is the easiest thing to reference back to.
     
  2. lastmile77

    lastmile77 n00b

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    Even though I just listed my SGI-branded FW900 for sale a few posts back (and it is still up for sale), I decided to pull the anti-glare film off.

    Its stuck on there good but the removal process isn't that difficult. Remove the back case from the monitor by unscrewing four screens, two on top under pop-off covers and two underneath. Then remove the large screw at each of the four corners that hold on the front bezels. Left to go are four smaller screws, one one each side and two on the bottom. Then slowly work a knife under a corner of the film and peel it away from the glass. I ended up doing all four corners. Then start pulling hard! And take it kinda slow to prevent tearing the film. Keep the film away from the glass while you're removing it, it will stick right back on if it touches. Then clean the glass if needed and reassemble the case.

    The picture looks great! More vivid color and sharper text. My other computer is an iMac which has glass over the LCD so I'm used to the screen that way. Anyway I recommend pulling yours especially if its marked up. There was static when I turned it on but it dissipated pretty quickly. Maybe some antistatic spray will take care of it totally.

    PICS

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    Last edited: Nov 14, 2010
  3. ZeosPantera

    ZeosPantera Limp Gawd

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    Yes, I have the AG off of all 3 of my FW900's. Two had some sort of blemish and the third's was missing to begin with. Even if I received a brand new 900 out of it's original box I would remove that one's coating too! It lets this monitor compete with the brightness of modern LCD's while maintaining 95% of the black levels and WAY better colors.

    I use Staticide on my screen. It works pretty good but I dont think I ever got all of the film's residue off of the glass even with Gumout and a razor blade.
     
  4. DAOWAce

    DAOWAce Limp Gawd

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    Worked.. but it screwed up the colors of my display.

    I was previously using sRGB mode because the colors on other modes were awful and sRGB got them to how it looked on my old monitor. I then used Powerstrip to kill the contrast/brightness.

    Now, sRGB is reddish, very ugly. Preset is still blueish but no longer overbright. I tried configuring expert but for some reason I can't get it to how it should look. I'm tired of spending my time in the menu.

    I currently have it set to variable and 8100K, but may drop it 2 more since I can still sense some blueness. My old monitor used 9300K and looked perfect, I don't understand what the difference is. Hell, I don't understand what finalize did to my colors.

    I'm waiting for a color return. I hope that doesn't screw it up more. I'm not in the mood to throw the old PC back on my desk and stumble through WinDAS again so soon. (Is why I've delayed this long in unlocking my OSD, my PC has no damn serial port.)


    Edit: I'm actually too afraid to use color return. I still have it at 8100K, I guess I'm getting used to it. It seems alright now, but it's still a bit bright when it's turned on. Can only wonder if it's actually gotten brighter, which it kinda seems like it has.
     
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2010
  5. LAGRUNAUER

    LAGRUNAUER Gawd

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    The retrace lines (verticals lines running across the screen) are due to corruption of the EEPROM and G2 voltage setting of the monitor, which is your case, is way too high and out of range.

    The green tint could be due to a faulty and/or faulty guns; but if the guns past test OK, then the unit is in need of white point point balance and adjustment via WinDAS and WinCAT, both custom Sony applications.

    Hope this helps...

    Sincerely,

    Unkle VIto!
     
  6. LAGRUNAUER

    LAGRUNAUER Gawd

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    You will not find many of the older GDM line of monitors in WinDAS. The GDM-W900 and some other older GDMs such as the GDM-F500R (predecessor of the GDM-F520) are in the old DAS program that run in DOS, and to connect the "service" jack interface of these monitors including the GDM-W900 to the computer, you will need an special probe that is very hard to find. DAS is pretty straight forward to use, just like WinDAS, but you will need an older system such as an 486 computer or even the first pentiums capable of running native DOS to make the program work. DAS is available in the internet...

    Hope this helps...

    Sincerely,

    Unkle Vito!
     
  7. LAGRUNAUER

    LAGRUNAUER Gawd

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    DO NOT CLEAN the anti-glare coating with any abrasives or solvents! If you do that, you will run the risk of damaging the coating beyond repair. I would use a high grade aqueous cleaning solution such as iKlear or Klear Screen and use the chamois that comes with the cleaning system and not the wipes. A cleaning rag with a hard surface can easily scratch the anti-glare coating and its removal is not that easy to perform.

    Hope this helps...

    Sincerely,

    Unkle Vito!
     
  8. sadbuttrue

    sadbuttrue Gawd

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    Is static build-up a constant issue once removing the anti-glare coating?
     
  9. SH1

    SH1 [H]ard|Gawd

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    I don't think I'd want to remove the anti-glare coating unless it was damaged. It was no doubt carefully engineered by Sony and I'd imagine is part of these displays' reference quality performance.

    Maybe the coating is more of a negative for folks who cannot control the ambient lighting or something...
     
  10. ZeosPantera

    ZeosPantera Limp Gawd

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    Yes. My cat is really the only reason I notice it however. A hair on it every once and a while. Usually the staticide helps but there must be residue on there from the AG still.

    Well, if it's in perfect nic don't remove it. Try to keep it if you are in front of a window and glare will actually affect you. But the difference in overall brightness is VERY noticeable. I wish I had taken a few DSLR Manual shots before and after with this SGi. Or even cut the plastic in half to show it side by side. An amazing difference in the vividness of colors and the brightness of white actually looks comparable an LCD which many of you should know seems blinding compared to a calibrated 900 with the coating on.
     
  11. Hurin

    Hurin 2[H]4U

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    Got a spare FW900 that will need to have its anti-glare coating removed since it has a few blemishes and what looks like hard water etching on it (seriously, like, water spot that won't go away no matter how much I buff the screen with a soft cloth and water).

    Thanks for all the tips about removing the AG screen. It's really a shame we can't just press a new AG coating onto the screen once we're done removing the old one.

    Best,

    H
     
  12. stevewm

    stevewm 2[H]4U

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    For those of you still searching for a WinDAS cable, the best one to get right now is a cheap one on eBay called a "USB to TTL" adapter. http://cgi.ebay.com/USB-serial-adap...016?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a09d1a678

    Please refer to this post I made a few months ago about it: http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1035951906&postcount=6175

    Hook it up exactly as shown in the above post. Make absolutely sure you do not at any point connect any of the wires on the TTL adapter to the +5v pin on the monitor... Doing so will most likely fry your adapter. Unplug the monitor while you are hooking up the pins! You WILL need some tweezers because it is impossible to reach the pins with just your fingers.

    Realistically if you plan on doing any adjustments, especially the convergence adjustment procedure, you need a second computer. I ran WinDAS on my Windows 7 netbook, and left the monitor connected to my primary computer displaying adjustment patterns.

    Uploading settings to the monitor takes a bit longer than downloading them. 3-4 minutes to download and maybe 5 to upload. During which the screen will make some clicking noises and go blank, this is normal.

    Because it was so difficult to hook up the cable, I just left it connected to my monitor, coiled it up and taped it to the back. It can stay connected without problems.
     
  13. Bummrus[H]a

    Bummrus[H]a Limp Gawd

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    A second monitor works fine, no need for another computer. :)
     
  14. Zangmonkey

    Zangmonkey I Realize My Disabilities - You Do Too

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    I'm on the opposite side of a problem...

    I have a working FW900 (HP Branded)
    (and 3 working GDM 5411 SGI branded) but have run out of space...

    I moved to a much smaller place and have built a much smaller desk. I'm going to need to replace these with FP's but I don't want to see them in a dump or in a PC-Recycler warehouse.

    I don't want to post in the for-sale forum because, really, they are nearly free to a good home if somebody will pay shipping (or pick them up?)
    And, as we know, freight shipping these guys is serious business. I'm in 89509 (Reno, NV area) if anybody is interested.
     
  15. DAOWAce

    DAOWAce Limp Gawd

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    Well now, my monitor suddenly clicked off then on, but only as if the beam shut off for a split second then started projecting again. After that happened.. it's a bit blurry again, like the convergence just got screwed. I spent an hour customizing that and the monitor decided to go haywire and ruin it, sigh.

    Wish LCDs weren't garbage, or widescreen.
     
  16. ZeosPantera

    ZeosPantera Limp Gawd

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    Flyback Transformer issue. One of mine has done that twice in the 6 months I have run it.

    Eh? you prefer the 4:3? I was a 4:3 fan for a while but now everything is widescreen. So a 16:10 Crt is a unique win!
     
  17. DAOWAce

    DAOWAce Limp Gawd

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    Thanks for that information. I took a quick look at the wiki article and now I am afraid that mine will fail. I'm tempted to open my old CRT up and try to repair that (which it's still usable, just, the picture at the top has an inch cut off and it's squished a bit in the center on the left/right sides) just in case this one fails, which would extremely sadden me because it's an incredible monitor, even if the text is a bit colorized (convergence I blame, looks like just cleartype on a CRT) and shaky. I'm unsure which bothers me more.

    Yes, I prefer 4:3. And actually, I think I prefer 5:4 now. 1280x1024 feels better than 1280x960. (And I can run casual games at 1280x960 in window mode now instead of full!) To me, more vertical space = better. Extreme widescreen displays aren't something I'm into, nor do they function all that well for computer usage aside from gaming, although I've never actually used one to find out. I suppose when I do finally manage to move to a flat panel I'll use two in portrait mode, provided I can even pay for such a thing.

    That said, yes, a 16:10 CRT is win, just for the sole fact it's a CRT. I would still take my 1600x1200 over anything else though. This can also run 1800x1440 @80Hz (which imo is too big for a 21") and the spec sheet says it can sync to 2048x1536@80Hz, which is quite insane, but I've never gotten to work regardless of refresh rate, which saddens me.
     
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2010
  18. Rock&Roll

    Rock&Roll [H]ard|Gawd

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    It really depends on the game if you're losing any vertical FOV or not with a widescreen. This is why all games should be HOR+ instead of VERT-.
     
  19. roberta

    roberta Limp Gawd

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    Reference Pages for Sony FW 900 on this thread
    Buried on 1st page of thread
    1. For most general links
    65. Focus Pods Adjustment
    84. Windas G2 default level adjustment
    88. Maxdrive is increased for blacks Drive_Max to 250
    91. Windas Installer
    112. Gamma & Contrast
    114. Link to pods
    115.Focus Pods & Convergence
    117. Pics to open monitor
    118 .Drive max/contrast settings
    126. ABL shutdown for contrast
    141. G2 settings stock
    143. Pics of G2 before and after
    148. Windas guide for convergence test
    151. Settings for color
    160. Apply final step to save settings for convergence
    171. Refreshrate Vista
    184. Bezel replacement
    191. Focus
    196. Landing
    204.Lower G2 to 130
    216. DAT file (orginal)
    234 .Black & Contrast Levels
    248. White Balance RLC-2 Level converter
    249. Correct Pins Setup for Windas
    253. Damper Windas, White Point Balance, Uncle Vito
    255. Anti Glare Film Removal
    256. G2 problem Uncle Vito
    262. ATI Driver Help
    264. Degauss
    266. Fixed Refresh Guide
    273.RCL-2 Link
    274 Big Link Page
    275. Uncle Vito Gain Link
    277. More Calibration Hints Uncle Vito
    281.Find Drivers XP
    282. RGB Video signals Graph
    287. Calibration software
    299. Windas Problems
    302. Windas G2 Black Level
    304.DVI to BNC Ati Fly
    305. ATI CUT DVT Adapter Pins
    309. Windas success Pin Links
    312.Link to Remove Anti-Glare Screen
    313.Guide Windas Convergence
    314.ATI & anti glare removal
    Made this quick reference list for myself when I got tired of searching this thread for quick answers!
    Boiled down from 3 pages of a master reference guide
     
  20. Rock&Roll

    Rock&Roll [H]ard|Gawd

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    One of my three FW-900s had a fairly poor AG screen on it. So I just got done removing it. I must concur with what others have said. Wow is it bright and vibrant! My only reservation about removing the coating is glare. But that hasn't be a problem in my situation. Very happy with the image quality!
     
  21. ZeosPantera

    ZeosPantera Limp Gawd

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    How bad was the glue? The two I have done the first was perfect and clean the second was a PIA..
     
  22. DAOWAce

    DAOWAce Limp Gawd

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    Well, bad news for me. The monitor is doing that action after 10-15 minutes of first turning it on in the morning, every day. Not only that, but it did it just an hour ago, which is twice in 16 hours. I can only assume, at this rate, it's going to fail by the end of this month. Cannot afford even a cheap monitor and I don't want to go back to using my old damaged one..
     
  23. Rock&Roll

    Rock&Roll [H]ard|Gawd

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    No glue issues on this one. Simply rolled off. Didn't even leave a residue on the glass.
     
  24. fosselman

    fosselman Limp Gawd

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    Sorry to thread jack, but I have a HP A7217A for $150. Located in 95819, pick up only, thanks.
     
  25. ZeosPantera

    ZeosPantera Limp Gawd

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  26. BassDX

    BassDX Limp Gawd

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    My roomate found one of these in perfect working condition at a recycling plant for the bargain price of $10 ;)
     
  27. Poordevil

    Poordevil Gawd

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    I paid $250 for mine a few weeks ago off craigslist. He was asking $350, I offered $200. He wrote back and said that was a little low, so I threw in an extra $50. Told him that was my best offer. He got back to me a couple of days later and took me up on it.

    It has been a good one, no scratches on the screen at all. The silver paint shows wear on the edges of the frame, other than that it looks and displays like new. He took good care of it.
     
  28. SH1

    SH1 [H]ard|Gawd

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    Followed your link and then I expanded the eBay search generally and ran across this:

    http://cgi.ebay.com/NEC-MultiSync-F...9569?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3362b23a31

    I think that's the final high end Diamondtron made? Or close to it and new and black and dirt cheap...

    It says no returns and I assume no warranty unless factory still applies somehow...so as ever you take your chances...

    I remember avoiding this monitor a few years ago after some complained about text quality, but then others said text was sharp. I suspect it comes down to the adjustments and luck...

    Already got a CRT and a spare or otherwise I would go for it...(still considered doing so, considering both my tubes are used to some extent, but I'm trying to resist...)
     
  29. SH1

    SH1 [H]ard|Gawd

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    Silver Sharpie worked for me to hide some blemishes on the silver bezel.

    If it's the very edge that's worn, that would be a different story I suppose...
     
    Last edited: Nov 20, 2010
  30. Poordevil

    Poordevil Gawd

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    The worn edges don't bother me, just normal wear and tear. The screen and display being flawless is the main thing :)
     
  31. topslop1

    topslop1 2[H]4U

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    I've got an FW900 that I'd like to move. It's in fine working condition, with some scratches on the bezel but other than that its good to go. For local pickup in CT I can do $300 even.
     
  32. Rob.

    Rob. Limp Gawd

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    $300 Good deal. I say keep it.. its gonna be in demand !
     
  33. movax

    movax 2[H]4U

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    Just a reminder: have a video source connected to your monitor while using WinDAS to download/upload settings. The last time I used DAS was in 2007, and I was scratching my head as to why my cable wasn't working (cobbled together a converter). Scope revealed monitor kept dropping to standby and cutting power to the +5V rail that is exposed at the ECS connector.

    Still on the hunt for a reasonable desk/setup that will support 3 of these suckers, hah. I guess I will just wait another like...8 years until I'm a homeowner somewhere.

    e: Wow, that PL-2023 based cable is cheap. Cheaper than the parts would cost to build one when you factor in shipping. Tempted to get one now so I can just leave the ECS port connected.

    e2: Would there be any interest in a USB 2.0 hub for the monitor base? Thinking about laying out a PCB that will physically fit in there with the ports lined up appropriately. USB 3.0 is possible as well once those connectors and ICs are easily available. They should be relatively low-cost, the more people that buy them, the cheaper they'll get.
     
  34. SH1

    SH1 [H]ard|Gawd

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    Has anyone here tried a 3 screen CRT set up? Is this something that works well or is it more of an LCD thing?
     
  35. silent-circuit

    silent-circuit [H]ardForum Junkie

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    Bezels on CRTs tend to be huge compared with many LCDs, and gigantic compared with thin bezel LCDs, so CRTs don't really lend themselves to multi-display setups. At least, not for gaming.
     
  36. Rock&Roll

    Rock&Roll [H]ard|Gawd

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    You'd be surprised how well bezels hide themselves when you're focused on a game. Though, a bezel this big may push the limit a little to far. I'm not even sure the drivers would allow for proper bezel compensation for a gap that big.

    I owned a 3x LCD setup and wound up going back to the trusty single FW900. Not that many games really gain much from the extra viewspace. And the cost to setup such a rig, the power consumption, the heat. All wind up not being worth it, IMO.

    Anyways, 3 FW900's should technically work in a surround/eyefinity setup...so long as they all have same EDID. If the monitors have differing EDID's, setup will be a PITA. I have no idea if it would work or not with EDID disabled (via removing a pin from the VGA cable), while using a custom driver.
     
  37. Zangmonkey

    Zangmonkey I Realize My Disabilities - You Do Too

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    I used a 4 CRT setup, but I'm not bothered by the bezels as I was using it for trading. Different charts on each screen.
     
  38. movax

    movax 2[H]4U

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    I used my CRTs for individual apps, not split-screen gaming, so didn't care about bezels. They just took up so much room.

    Got my FW900 back up and running, but now it's extra-dim, and I'm feeling too lazy to take it back-apart and re WinDAS it. apparently I knicked some more AG film on it too, so I should probably peel it off at this point. Getting more and more tempted to just buy a U3011 and put the FW900 back in storage with its 2 brothers for some other day.

    No interest in USB 2.0 replacement hub for FW900?
     
  39. Truckchase!

    Truckchase! n00b

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    I use the FW900 with an LCD on each side. I overlap the LCD bezels over the CRT bezels. Works like a dream; great display with all the CRT advantages for the main screen, cheap, low power display for the periphery.
     
  40. SH1

    SH1 [H]ard|Gawd

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    Thanks guys. So it sounds like 3 CRTs to achieve a panoramic view might be questionable. (Though dual CRT or more running separate apps perhaps is more reasonable. Or matching a CRT display up with some flanking LCDs perhaps...)