lastmile77
n00b
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- Dec 13, 2008
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- 31
Oh sorry I thought you were talking about an issue with a Sony hooked to an SGI. No clue, mine doesn't do that.
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24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.
- Thread starter mathesar
- Start date
JosephDeMayo
n00b
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- Oct 25, 2010
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Is there anyway i can use my SDI cable on this Monitor?
thanks!
thanks!
It seems my FW-900 may have bit the dust. The power went out last night and when I tried to turn on the monitor, it makes four attempts to turn on followed by two, fast blinks of the orange light, then a pause. Any Idea what could be the cause of the problem?
By "makes a couple attempts to turn on", you need to go into more detail. Does the screen ever even show anything at all. Or do you just hear a couple relays click and then the LED flashes?
If it's the power supply, you could by a working FW900 in rough condition for cheap (provided you can find one) and swap the power supply boards out.
If it's the power supply, you could by a working FW900 in rough condition for cheap (provided you can find one) and swap the power supply boards out.
I got the drivers installed on XP and the GDM FW900 is listed in Device Manager and the Display Properties window. I couldn't get the ATI Catalyst Control Center to recognize the GDM FW900, only a default CRT, so I uninstalled CCC.
When I upgrade my Vidcard from this HD4850 I am going with Nvidia. After all my adjusting of the on screen menu this display still looks pale to me. I want to try the GTX 460 with the Nvidia Control Panel and see if it will get this display to brighten up some. The ATI CCC and the 4850 can not do a satisfactory job.
Maybe it is just the way the FW900 displays and it isn't meant to display colors as saturated as I like. But the Viewsonic displays rich colors and it uses the Trinitron tube. I am just comparing to my p225f. If I can get this FW900 to look like that in this 16 :10 aspect ratio, I would be a happy camper
All the computer hook ups are the same. I just disconnected the p225f and hooked in the FW900. That would be BNC cables with a 24 pin dual link DVI to VGA adapter.
When I upgrade my Vidcard from this HD4850 I am going with Nvidia. After all my adjusting of the on screen menu this display still looks pale to me. I want to try the GTX 460 with the Nvidia Control Panel and see if it will get this display to brighten up some. The ATI CCC and the 4850 can not do a satisfactory job.
Maybe it is just the way the FW900 displays and it isn't meant to display colors as saturated as I like. But the Viewsonic displays rich colors and it uses the Trinitron tube. I am just comparing to my p225f. If I can get this FW900 to look like that in this 16 :10 aspect ratio, I would be a happy camper
All the computer hook ups are the same. I just disconnected the p225f and hooked in the FW900. That would be BNC cables with a 24 pin dual link DVI to VGA adapter.
So my buddy just built a new gaming box and purchased the HANNS-G 28" LCD.
HANNS-G critical Specs:
1920x1200 WUXGA
3ms response time
15,000:1 (800:1) contrast ratio
florescent
At first, I found the monitor blind blowing with windows. Colors were nice and bright, everything looked pretty crisp, I didn't see any evidence of ghosting (yet). For an hour or so, I actually started getting a bit sad about my FW900. Have LCDs finally caught up?
Then we started getting a little deeper with the games, and that is when I noticed its biggest flaw. Black can not reach black! I played with the software and hardware contrast ratings for quite a long time before I finally realized this monitor's contrast ratio is simply not high enough to be able to give me pure blacks. I slowly started realizing how this flaw made everything look like it has been bleached out. Dark and gritty games look simply wrong.
If I'm looking inside a room in a game that is not lit by a light, I like the blackness to be purely black and not look like a faint gray.
By comparison, my Samsung TV (florescent) is 50,000:1. The blacks on it look truly black, and I can clearly see the difference between 50,000:1 vs 15,000:1 (800:1 ansi). Oddly enough, this is one of the brightest monitors that Newegg has. It seems like, with monitors, you either get a high contrast ratio with slow response times or vice versa. At least that is what I am noticing and have not done full research on more monitors.
It has been almost 10 years, and I have yet to have found an LCD that can rival CRTs as far as performance and screen resolution versatility is concerned. They obviously have CRTs beat in the weight and power requirements, but what power user cares about that? I am perfectly happy with my table bending 100lb FW900.
Another satisfied FW900 user reporting in and still realizing LCDs suck even in the year 2010.
HANNS-G critical Specs:
1920x1200 WUXGA
3ms response time
15,000:1 (800:1) contrast ratio
florescent
At first, I found the monitor blind blowing with windows. Colors were nice and bright, everything looked pretty crisp, I didn't see any evidence of ghosting (yet). For an hour or so, I actually started getting a bit sad about my FW900. Have LCDs finally caught up?
Then we started getting a little deeper with the games, and that is when I noticed its biggest flaw. Black can not reach black! I played with the software and hardware contrast ratings for quite a long time before I finally realized this monitor's contrast ratio is simply not high enough to be able to give me pure blacks. I slowly started realizing how this flaw made everything look like it has been bleached out. Dark and gritty games look simply wrong.
If I'm looking inside a room in a game that is not lit by a light, I like the blackness to be purely black and not look like a faint gray.
By comparison, my Samsung TV (florescent) is 50,000:1. The blacks on it look truly black, and I can clearly see the difference between 50,000:1 vs 15,000:1 (800:1 ansi). Oddly enough, this is one of the brightest monitors that Newegg has. It seems like, with monitors, you either get a high contrast ratio with slow response times or vice versa. At least that is what I am noticing and have not done full research on more monitors.
It has been almost 10 years, and I have yet to have found an LCD that can rival CRTs as far as performance and screen resolution versatility is concerned. They obviously have CRTs beat in the weight and power requirements, but what power user cares about that? I am perfectly happy with my table bending 100lb FW900.
Another satisfied FW900 user reporting in and still realizing LCDs suck even in the year 2010.
I post on the IGN PC gaming board and "all" those guys are using LCDs and thinking they have a real knock out display. I chime in on their LCD display threads, like someone asking what would be a good monitor to get. Then I see these links to $300 and $400 LCDs that have to be junk.
I will talk about my CRT and how good it looks, even post flattering screens, and they believe I am nuts thinking any old fashion CRT could compare to a brand new LCD.
To be honest I haven't stared at a LCD screen in some time so I don't know really how far they have come in the last 3 years. However, CRT was developed and perfected for 50 years and with the FW900, and even the p225f, we have the pinnacle of that technology. That is a high standard to pass or even to meet. Show me the LCD that surpasses it and I will retire the FW900 and adopt it, not a problem.
I will talk about my CRT and how good it looks, even post flattering screens, and they believe I am nuts thinking any old fashion CRT could compare to a brand new LCD.
To be honest I haven't stared at a LCD screen in some time so I don't know really how far they have come in the last 3 years. However, CRT was developed and perfected for 50 years and with the FW900, and even the p225f, we have the pinnacle of that technology. That is a high standard to pass or even to meet. Show me the LCD that surpasses it and I will retire the FW900 and adopt it, not a problem.
Yes, the method used to generate the image is fundamental to it's ability to reproduce pure blacks. LCDs function by BLOCKING a bright back light to the best of the panel's ability, this results in it's inability to truly produce an absence of light. Whereas with a CRT the default state of a pixel is a pure rich black. I have never seen an LCD that impressed me in this regard compared to a CRT and I am not sure if I ever will..
Well guys, it seems that after 5 years, my poor FW is starting to have issues.
When the monitor is cold, as in overnight off, when I turn it on and wake up the computer, the image flickers. Using the VGA port, it will flicker for about 10 or so seconds then the image stays constant. Colors and geometry are perfect after this time period. Using the BNC connectors, when I turned my other PC on, I would see the startup BIOS info on the screen for a few seconds, then all the colors of the monitor converged in a circle in the middle, the tube turned off, and the power light started flashing.
I can have the monitor turned on all day, and not experience any weird things with it regardless of what I do. Even changing resolutions and refresh rates does not cause it to do what it does when I first start it up after a few hours of it being cold.
And I also tested the monitor by turning it off for 5 minutes. I turned it back on and it seems perfectly fine. So at this moment, I really don't know how long it needs to be turned off in order for the flickering to appear.
Has anyone else experienced this?
When the monitor is cold, as in overnight off, when I turn it on and wake up the computer, the image flickers. Using the VGA port, it will flicker for about 10 or so seconds then the image stays constant. Colors and geometry are perfect after this time period. Using the BNC connectors, when I turned my other PC on, I would see the startup BIOS info on the screen for a few seconds, then all the colors of the monitor converged in a circle in the middle, the tube turned off, and the power light started flashing.
I can have the monitor turned on all day, and not experience any weird things with it regardless of what I do. Even changing resolutions and refresh rates does not cause it to do what it does when I first start it up after a few hours of it being cold.
And I also tested the monitor by turning it off for 5 minutes. I turned it back on and it seems perfectly fine. So at this moment, I really don't know how long it needs to be turned off in order for the flickering to appear.
Has anyone else experienced this?
Can't get my FW900 to display in a higher rez than 1920X1200. I am on XP. I have the monitor drivers installed and recognized by the OS. Why can't I get any options, either in Windows or in the games I play, to crank this puppy up to the max rez of 2304 X 1440?
ZeosPantera
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2009
- Messages
- 476
The cold start flicker is always going to be an issue. My FW900 is directly in front of a drafty window and It creaks every startup in cold weather. However that last issue with the Hell circle of converged colors and warning lights flashing is a new one to me.
I found this in the users manual on page 16 that may explain how to get the 900 to display at higher resolutions:
NOTE FOR WINDOWS USERS
For Windows users, check your graphic board manual or the utility program which comes with your graphic board and select the highest available refresh rate to maximize monitor performance.
So it looks like I have to use the Catalyst Control Center to bump the rez up. I uninstalled the CCC because I couldn't get it to recognize the 900, it would only see a generic CRT monitor and so offered no options to get the rez above 1920 X 1200.
I will try reinstalling CCC and maybe I can get it to see the 900.
NOTE FOR WINDOWS USERS
For Windows users, check your graphic board manual or the utility program which comes with your graphic board and select the highest available refresh rate to maximize monitor performance.
So it looks like I have to use the Catalyst Control Center to bump the rez up. I uninstalled the CCC because I couldn't get it to recognize the 900, it would only see a generic CRT monitor and so offered no options to get the rez above 1920 X 1200.
I will try reinstalling CCC and maybe I can get it to see the 900.
DAOWAce
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Apr 8, 2007
- Messages
- 139
Well, just found out the adapter I purchased does work, just not as I thought.
It has LEDs that light up when things go right. The TXD and RXD were not lighting up unless I did some different connections or used a jumper, but that wouldn't have any communications with windas.
Now after having it sitting caseless for weeks, I tried it again. Plugged things in literally the same exact way I had it the first time, tried it, suddenly worked!
Now I just need to find those guides I had saved in my tabs a month ago.
Edit: Awesome, using Windas somehow managed to OSD lock my monitor. Anyone know how to unlock it? P1130
It has LEDs that light up when things go right. The TXD and RXD were not lighting up unless I did some different connections or used a jumper, but that wouldn't have any communications with windas.
Now after having it sitting caseless for weeks, I tried it again. Plugged things in literally the same exact way I had it the first time, tried it, suddenly worked!
Now I just need to find those guides I had saved in my tabs a month ago.
Edit: Awesome, using Windas somehow managed to OSD lock my monitor. Anyone know how to unlock it? P1130
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I DL and installed the CCC and I found an option under the Display Options called Force Component Video Detection. I checked it and it totally changed the way this monitor displays. It no longer looks washed out or pale. All the colors are rich and deep like one would expect, like the p255f. The blacks are blacker and the colors are deeper, radical improvement overall.
But I still can't get the CCC to offer the rez options I want. There are a slew of rez options in the drop down menu, but not the ones I want. Instead of 2304 X 1440 I am given 2304 X 864.Then there are some that are even higher that the users manual doesn't list as supported such as 3200 X 1200, 3840 X 1080, 2560 X 1024. It does offer me 1920 X 1200 which I have selected and applied.
But I still can't get the CCC to offer the rez options I want. There are a slew of rez options in the drop down menu, but not the ones I want. Instead of 2304 X 1440 I am given 2304 X 864.Then there are some that are even higher that the users manual doesn't list as supported such as 3200 X 1200, 3840 X 1080, 2560 X 1024. It does offer me 1920 X 1200 which I have selected and applied.
ZeosPantera
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2009
- Messages
- 476
Have you gone here
And done this?
I limit mine to 1920x1200 and lowered the refresh to my standard 85 because worms reloaded was automatically trying to set everything to max which is impossible.
yes that Monitor Properties page where you show Max rez set at 1920 X1440 is the menu I was referring to as having all the options but not the ones listed in the preset timing table in the FW900 users manual as supported by the 900. The only 1920 options listed in the users manual are 1920 X1080 and 1920 X 1200.
I dunno, this CCC is confusing to me. It doesn't seem to understand the FW900, or at least it doesn't offer the timing modes listed in the users manual. The max rez is not 1920 X 1440, it is 2304 X 1440. And the max refresh rate at that rez is not 160hz, but 80hz.
I dunno, this CCC is confusing to me. It doesn't seem to understand the FW900, or at least it doesn't offer the timing modes listed in the users manual. The max rez is not 1920 X 1440, it is 2304 X 1440. And the max refresh rate at that rez is not 160hz, but 80hz.
ZeosPantera
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2009
- Messages
- 476
I haven't tested but if you just set the CCC to the absolute maximum for both all option beneath it should become available to you. If 2304x1440 doesn't then some sort of driver hack is probably necessary.
I had the same problem! What you have to do is go to Adjustments -> Procedure then select something like "Final setting". Run through that procedure and it should unlock the OSD.
Will this USB to TTL cable work with a FW900 or G400?
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GreenMonkey
2[H]4U
- Joined
- Jun 25, 2006
- Messages
- 2,159
My FW900 got really contrasty-blown out all of a sudden. As in, blooming (screen size changing with brightness) and a bit fuzzy.
I changed the display timeout so it would stay on for a while, and ran the image restore, and it looks great again. *whew*.
I changed the display timeout so it would stay on for a while, and ran the image restore, and it looks great again. *whew*.
ZeosPantera
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2009
- Messages
- 476
I asked that a few pages ago with no-one answering.. So I second the question. Someone take one for the team and buy it!
Lucky.. Hope that covers you for a while.
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I can't speak to that cable, but I did buy this USB TTL converter which is even cheaper. It worked with my Dell P1130, so I'd imagine it would work with the FW900. The only trick to using that is to put the jumper over the 3.3V pins.
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Here is an index I found while browsing this monster thread! It is on page 285.
Originally Posted by roberta
Widescreen Monitor page List [H]ardOCP
24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived
Reference Pages for Sony FW 900 on this thread
1. For most general links
65. Focus Pods Adjustment
84. Windas G2 default level adjustment
88. Maxdrive is increased for blacks Drive_Max to 250
91. Windas Installer
112. Gamma & Contrast
114. Link to pods
115.Focus Pods & Convergence
117. Pics to open monitor
118 .Drive max/contrast settings
126. ABL shutdown for contrast
141. G2 settings stock
143. Pics of G2 before and after
148. Windas guide for convergence test
151. Settings for color
160. Apply final step to save settings for convergence
171. Refreshrate Vista
184. Bezel replacement
191. Focus
196. Landing
204.Lower G2 to 130
216. DAT file (orginal)
234 .Black & Contrast Levels
248. White Balance
Made this quick reference list for myself when I got tired of searching this thread for quick answers!
Boiled down from 3 pages of a master reference guide
PS: Still needs updating
A special thanks to Warren who with his technical expertise tweaked out my monitor!
Originally Posted by roberta
Widescreen Monitor page List [H]ardOCP
24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived
Reference Pages for Sony FW 900 on this thread
1. For most general links
65. Focus Pods Adjustment
84. Windas G2 default level adjustment
88. Maxdrive is increased for blacks Drive_Max to 250
91. Windas Installer
112. Gamma & Contrast
114. Link to pods
115.Focus Pods & Convergence
117. Pics to open monitor
118 .Drive max/contrast settings
126. ABL shutdown for contrast
141. G2 settings stock
143. Pics of G2 before and after
148. Windas guide for convergence test
151. Settings for color
160. Apply final step to save settings for convergence
171. Refreshrate Vista
184. Bezel replacement
191. Focus
196. Landing
204.Lower G2 to 130
216. DAT file (orginal)
234 .Black & Contrast Levels
248. White Balance
Made this quick reference list for myself when I got tired of searching this thread for quick answers!
Boiled down from 3 pages of a master reference guide
PS: Still needs updating
A special thanks to Warren who with his technical expertise tweaked out my monitor!
DAOWAce
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Apr 8, 2007
- Messages
- 139
Anyone remember what post contained a .zip file of the geocities winDAS website? I can't seem to find it.
No, but I can host the zip for the Windas program I still have: www.daow.net/downloads/data/windas.zip
If you mean a backup archive of the site, then hey I want that too. This doesn't cut it though? http://www.piclist.com/images/com/geocities/www/gregua/windas/
Total Updated Quick Reference Sheet 11-05-10
Reference Pages for Sony FW 900 on this thread
1. For most general links
65. Focus Pods Adjustment
84. Windas G2 default level adjustment
88. Maxdrive is increased for blacks Drive_Max to 250
91. Windas Installer
112. Gamma & Contrast
114. Link to pods
115.Focus Pods & Convergence
117. Pics to open monitor
118 .Drive max/contrast settings
126. ABL shutdown for contrast
141. G2 settings stock
143. Pics of G2 before and after
148. Windas guide for convergence test
151. Settings for color
160. Apply final step to save settings for convergence
171. Refreshrate Vista
184. Bezel replacement
191. Focus
196. Landing
204.Lower G2 to 130
216. DAT file (orginal)
234 .Black & Contrast Levels
248. White Balance RLC-2 Level converter
249. Correct Pins Setup for Windas
253. Damper Windas, White Point Balance, Uncle Vito
255. Anti Glare Film Removal
256. G2 problem Uncle Vito
262. ATI Driver Help
264. Degauss
266. Fixed Refresh Guide
273.RCL-2 Link
274 Big Link Page
275. Uncle Vito Gain Link
277. More Calibration Hints Uncle Vito
281.Find Drivers XP
282. RGB Video signals Graph
287. Calibration software
299. Windas Problems
302. Windas G2 Black Level
304.DVI to BNC Ati Fly
305. ATI CUT DVT Adapter Pins
309. Windas success Pin Links
312.Link to Remove Anti-Glare Screen
313.Guide Windas Convergence
314.ATI & anti glare removal
Made this quick reference list for myself when I got tired of searching this thread for quick answere
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Last edited by roberta; Today at 03:26 PM..
Reference Pages for Sony FW 900 on this thread
1. For most general links
65. Focus Pods Adjustment
84. Windas G2 default level adjustment
88. Maxdrive is increased for blacks Drive_Max to 250
91. Windas Installer
112. Gamma & Contrast
114. Link to pods
115.Focus Pods & Convergence
117. Pics to open monitor
118 .Drive max/contrast settings
126. ABL shutdown for contrast
141. G2 settings stock
143. Pics of G2 before and after
148. Windas guide for convergence test
151. Settings for color
160. Apply final step to save settings for convergence
171. Refreshrate Vista
184. Bezel replacement
191. Focus
196. Landing
204.Lower G2 to 130
216. DAT file (orginal)
234 .Black & Contrast Levels
248. White Balance RLC-2 Level converter
249. Correct Pins Setup for Windas
253. Damper Windas, White Point Balance, Uncle Vito
255. Anti Glare Film Removal
256. G2 problem Uncle Vito
262. ATI Driver Help
264. Degauss
266. Fixed Refresh Guide
273.RCL-2 Link
274 Big Link Page
275. Uncle Vito Gain Link
277. More Calibration Hints Uncle Vito
281.Find Drivers XP
282. RGB Video signals Graph
287. Calibration software
299. Windas Problems
302. Windas G2 Black Level
304.DVI to BNC Ati Fly
305. ATI CUT DVT Adapter Pins
309. Windas success Pin Links
312.Link to Remove Anti-Glare Screen
313.Guide Windas Convergence
314.ATI & anti glare removal
Made this quick reference list for myself when I got tired of searching this thread for quick answere
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Last edited by roberta; Today at 03:26 PM..
lastmile77
n00b
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2008
- Messages
- 31
Even though I just listed my SGI-branded FW900 for sale a few posts back (and it is still up for sale), I decided to pull the anti-glare film off.
Its stuck on there good but the removal process isn't that difficult. Remove the back case from the monitor by unscrewing four screens, two on top under pop-off covers and two underneath. Then remove the large screw at each of the four corners that hold on the front bezels. Left to go are four smaller screws, one one each side and two on the bottom. Then slowly work a knife under a corner of the film and peel it away from the glass. I ended up doing all four corners. Then start pulling hard! And take it kinda slow to prevent tearing the film. Keep the film away from the glass while you're removing it, it will stick right back on if it touches. Then clean the glass if needed and reassemble the case.
The picture looks great! More vivid color and sharper text. My other computer is an iMac which has glass over the LCD so I'm used to the screen that way. Anyway I recommend pulling yours especially if its marked up. There was static when I turned it on but it dissipated pretty quickly. Maybe some antistatic spray will take care of it totally.
PICS
Its stuck on there good but the removal process isn't that difficult. Remove the back case from the monitor by unscrewing four screens, two on top under pop-off covers and two underneath. Then remove the large screw at each of the four corners that hold on the front bezels. Left to go are four smaller screws, one one each side and two on the bottom. Then slowly work a knife under a corner of the film and peel it away from the glass. I ended up doing all four corners. Then start pulling hard! And take it kinda slow to prevent tearing the film. Keep the film away from the glass while you're removing it, it will stick right back on if it touches. Then clean the glass if needed and reassemble the case.
The picture looks great! More vivid color and sharper text. My other computer is an iMac which has glass over the LCD so I'm used to the screen that way. Anyway I recommend pulling yours especially if its marked up. There was static when I turned it on but it dissipated pretty quickly. Maybe some antistatic spray will take care of it totally.
PICS
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ZeosPantera
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2009
- Messages
- 476
Yes, I have the AG off of all 3 of my FW900's. Two had some sort of blemish and the third's was missing to begin with. Even if I received a brand new 900 out of it's original box I would remove that one's coating too! It lets this monitor compete with the brightness of modern LCD's while maintaining 95% of the black levels and WAY better colors.
I use Staticide on my screen. It works pretty good but I dont think I ever got all of the film's residue off of the glass even with Gumout and a razor blade.
DAOWAce
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Apr 8, 2007
- Messages
- 139
Worked.. but it screwed up the colors of my display.
I was previously using sRGB mode because the colors on other modes were awful and sRGB got them to how it looked on my old monitor. I then used Powerstrip to kill the contrast/brightness.
Now, sRGB is reddish, very ugly. Preset is still blueish but no longer overbright. I tried configuring expert but for some reason I can't get it to how it should look. I'm tired of spending my time in the menu.
I currently have it set to variable and 8100K, but may drop it 2 more since I can still sense some blueness. My old monitor used 9300K and looked perfect, I don't understand what the difference is. Hell, I don't understand what finalize did to my colors.
I'm waiting for a color return. I hope that doesn't screw it up more. I'm not in the mood to throw the old PC back on my desk and stumble through WinDAS again so soon. (Is why I've delayed this long in unlocking my OSD, my PC has no damn serial port.)
Edit: I'm actually too afraid to use color return. I still have it at 8100K, I guess I'm getting used to it. It seems alright now, but it's still a bit bright when it's turned on. Can only wonder if it's actually gotten brighter, which it kinda seems like it has.
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LAGRUNAUER
Gawd
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2006
- Messages
- 745
Yo, guys. So, here are a couple of crappy pics to show what my monitor is doing. I have contacted 3 separate repair centers claiming to specialize in crt monitor repair, but none of them have given me a response. I'm sorry for the crappy pics, but you can get an idea of what it's doing.
(click to blow up)
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
It isn't connected to anything in these pictures, but regardless the result is the same. The green tint doesn't fade even after image resto.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Here you can see the vertical green lines that run across the screen.
Any ideas?
**I will note that when it is hooked up to a computer, the display does function in showing a proper image aside from the defects shown above.
The retrace lines (verticals lines running across the screen) are due to corruption of the EEPROM and G2 voltage setting of the monitor, which is your case, is way too high and out of range.
The green tint could be due to a faulty and/or faulty guns; but if the guns past test OK, then the unit is in need of white point point balance and adjustment via WinDAS and WinCAT, both custom Sony applications.
Hope this helps...
Sincerely,
Unkle VIto!
LAGRUNAUER
Gawd
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2006
- Messages
- 745
You will not find many of the older GDM line of monitors in WinDAS. The GDM-W900 and some other older GDMs such as the GDM-F500R (predecessor of the GDM-F520) are in the old DAS program that run in DOS, and to connect the "service" jack interface of these monitors including the GDM-W900 to the computer, you will need an special probe that is very hard to find. DAS is pretty straight forward to use, just like WinDAS, but you will need an older system such as an 486 computer or even the first pentiums capable of running native DOS to make the program work. DAS is available in the internet...
Hope this helps...
Sincerely,
Unkle Vito!
LAGRUNAUER
Gawd
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2006
- Messages
- 745
DO NOT CLEAN the anti-glare coating with any abrasives or solvents! If you do that, you will run the risk of damaging the coating beyond repair. I would use a high grade aqueous cleaning solution such as iKlear or Klear Screen and use the chamois that comes with the cleaning system and not the wipes. A cleaning rag with a hard surface can easily scratch the anti-glare coating and its removal is not that easy to perform.
Hope this helps...
Sincerely,
Unkle Vito!