2080ti cooling options

[Bankie]

So I've had a NZXT G12 AIO bracket on my 2080ti for a couple of years now. It's been working great and generally still does with gaming but when mining the temp will quickly climb up to 90c (even with underclocking and a 65% power limit). I am using an old Corsair H100 on it and when I shake the radiator it sounds like there's a lot of splashing so I'm guessing a lot of the coolant has evaporated by now. The problem is that there are very few radiators compatible with the G12 now as it was made for the old Asetek "twist to lock" units that have been discontinued for a while now.

Any one have any suggestions on GPU AIOs or air coolers that are compatible?

 

[pendragon1]

So I've had a NZXT G12 AIO bracket on my 2080ti for a couple of years now. It's been working great and generally still does with gaming but when mining the temp will quickly climb up to 90c (even with underclocking and a 65% power limit). I am using an old Corsair H100 on it and when I shake the radiator it sounds like there's a lot of splashing so I'm guessing a lot of the coolant has evaporated by now. The problem is that there are very few radiators compatible with the G12 now as it was made for the old Asetek "twist to lock" units that have been discontinued for a while now.

Any one have any suggestions on GPU AIOs or air coolers that are compatible?

you can still get plenty of asetek based aios that will work on it or you could refill it or upgrade the rad and refill it or integrate it into a full loop like i did....

 

[Furious_Styles]

AIO Liquid Cooler Compatibility:

• NZXT: Kraken Z73, Z63, X73, X63, X53, X72, X62, X52, X42, X61, X41, X31, X60, X40
• Corsair: H105, H110, H90, H75 (CW-9060015-WW only), H55, H50 (CW-906006-WW only)
• Thermaltake: Water 3.0 Riing RGB 360, 280, 240, Red 280, 140 - Water 3.0 Ultimate - Extreme S, Extreme, Pro, Performer - Water 2.0 Extreme, Pro, Performer
• Antec: KUHLER H2O 920V4, 620V4, 920, 620
• Zalman: LQ-320, LQ-315, LQ-310

 

[Bankie]

AIO Liquid Cooler Compatibility:

• NZXT: Kraken Z73, Z63, X73, X63, X53, X72, X62, X52, X42, X61, X41, X31, X60, X40
• Corsair: H105, H110, H90, H75 (CW-9060015-WW only), H55, H50 (CW-906006-WW only)
• Thermaltake: Water 3.0 Riing RGB 360, 280, 240, Red 280, 140 - Water 3.0 Ultimate - Extreme S, Extreme, Pro, Performer - Water 2.0 Extreme, Pro, Performer
• Antec: KUHLER H2O 920V4, 620V4, 920, 620
• Zalman: LQ-320, LQ-315, LQ-310

Yeah the problem with that list is most of them are long out of production. I guess I should have mentioned if I go with AIO again I'll need a 120/140mm AIO. NZXT doesn't even have a 120mm AIO that fits their bracket.

 

[Furious_Styles]

Yeah the problem with that list is most of them are long out of production. I guess I should have mentioned if I go with AIO again I'll need a 120/140mm AIO. NZXT doesn't even have a 120mm AIO that fits their bracket.

Yeah that's true. Usually can find one on ebay that is either lightly used or not used at all. I have an H90 that I bought on here for a similar setup and if it dies I'm just going to get something that works off of ebay.

 

[Bankie]

you can still get plenty of asetek based aios that will work on it or you could refill it or upgrade the rad and refill it or integrate it into a full loop like i did....

I tried the EVGA CLC120 which fits with some fiddling but I could never get it to cool near as well as the old H55 (I realize I said H100 in the original post). When playing games with the current H55 it only goes up to about 65C which is acceptable but it used to 10C lower than that and would keep it right at 70C when mining.

I'd go with a full loop but every time I start piecing the parts together I see it's going to end up being $500-$800 and decide not to. I guess I could look into refilling but it makes me a wee bit nervous to have a once punctured radiator in the PC.

It's too bad EVGA cancelled their AIO 6 months into the life of the 2080ti; I'd pick one of those up if I could.

 

[pendragon1]

I tried the EVGA CLC120 which fits with some fiddling but I could never get it to cool near as well as the old H55 (I realize I said H100 in the original post). When playing games with the current H55 it only goes up to about 65C which is acceptable but it used to 10C lower than that and would keep it right at 70C when mining.

I'd go with a full loop but every time I start piecing the parts together I see it's going to end up being $500-$800 and decide not to. I guess I could look into refilling but it makes me a wee bit nervous to have a once punctured radiator in the PC.

It's too bad EVGA cancelled their AIO 6 months into the life of the 2080ti; I'd pick one of those up if I could.

ah, i see. youve cleaned the rad and repasted the pump?
to refill, you cut t tube off at the barb, refill it with 10/90 antifreeze/water and put the hose back on the barb. you dont "puncture a rad". a loop doesnt have to cost that much either, mine was ~200CAN.

 

[Bankie]

ah, i see. youve cleaned the rad and repasted the pump?
to refill, you cut t tube off at the barb, refill it with 10/90 antifreeze/water and put the hose back on the barb. you dont "puncture a rad". a loop doesnt have to cost that much either, mine was ~200CAN.

Yeah, I've already disassembled, cleaned, and repasted everything. When I was looking at refilling the AIO people were talking about drilling a hole in the top cap of the radiator, filling it, then sealing it which might technically work but seemed sketchy after spending so much time around autos and seeing all of the ways their radiators leak.

Maybe there's a cheaper way to get a loop in but I dislike the idea of a loop only on the GPU. Now, I've mainly looked EKWB but it always comes out to $600+ depending on options.

 

[pendragon1]

When I was looking at refilling the AIO people were talking about drilling a hole in the top cap of the radiator, filling it, then sealing it which might technically work but seemed sketchy after spending so much time around autos and seeing all of the ways their radiators leak.

that is sketchy af. i just cut the tube right at the barb and peel off the little bit left on the barb. refill it and then zip-tie the tube after its back on.

yes ek is pricey, a loop doesnt have to be.