2015 Samsung 4k TV as a Monitor Set Up Guide

Uuuuugh, so confused. I have a 48ju6700 that I decided to hook a 2nd "system" to via HDMI-2. Wasn't really thinking of this scenario when I bought it, but apparently all the really good picture features are only available on HDMI-1.

I set all the available options to the recommended settings which includes shutting off all the Eco stuff, Dynamic Contrast and Black Tone are OFF... however my screen dims when there's mostly black on the screen then brightens up when I open a white window. What's going on here? Is there some sort of 'reboot' so just maybe the TV will realize I shut that stuff OFF!?


Thanks
 
alaricljs said:
Uuuuugh, so confused. I have a 48ju6700 that I decided to hook a 2nd "system" to via HDMI-2. Wasn't really thinking of this scenario when I bought it, but apparently all the really good picture features are only available on HDMI-1.

I set all the available options to the recommended settings which includes shutting off all the Eco stuff, Dynamic Contrast and Black Tone are OFF... however my screen dims when there's mostly black on the screen then brightens up when I open a white window. What's going on here? Is there some sort of 'reboot' so just maybe the TV will realize I shut that stuff OFF!?


Thanks
Click to expand...


Yeah, unfortunately only the higher end models have HDMI2 on more than one port :(
 
Well, it's displaying a 4k 60Hz signal so it's definitely HDMI2. This really should just be an issue with software on the TV. Since the only stuff I can't get to in the menus are black level and UHD it seems like what I want is meant to work. Dynamic contrast can be toggled and it's off, all the ECO stuff is off. By the settings the brightness of the TV shouldn't fluctuate.

Anyone ever try to file a bug against their TV firmware? lol...
 
alaricljs said:
Well, it's displaying a 4k 60Hz signal so it's definitely HDMI2. This really should just be an issue with software on the TV. Since the only stuff I can't get to in the menus are black level and UHD it seems like what I want is meant to work. Dynamic contrast can be toggled and it's off, all the ECO stuff is off. By the settings the brightness of the TV shouldn't fluctuate.

Anyone ever try to file a bug against their TV firmware? lol...
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Are you certain it's not displaying that 4k 60hz signal by dropping the chroma?

I'm not 100% certain, since I've never owned one, but I could have sworn I recalled reading over a year ago when I was researching these TV's that the 6700 only had HDMI2 on port 1.


edit:
Here is my reference for that from someone who owned both the 7500 and the 6700:

Wiz33 said:
I have both for a while. The main difference is that the 7500 will take 4K 4:4:4 @60Hz on all 4 HDMI ports. Also the HDMI ports are on a separate box that's suppose to be upgradeable/replaceable. If you are planning on using it to watch TV or use the SmartTV function, it also have better scaler chip for upscaling 1080p content to 4K.

Other than those, It has a glossy screen which lets the colors pop a bit more but it also more reflective. The 120Hz panel and 240 Hz backlight does reduce motion blur. And it is also 3D capable.
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As far as I can tell It's 4:2:0, which again is fine since this is for games and it's set to Game mode anyhow so no 4:4:4 expectations. nVidia control panel claims 8bpc, it's locked to limited dynamic range and the color format is locked to YCbCr420. Samsung's site and manual don't really *say* anything other than that if UHD is off (which can't be changed for this set on ports 2-4) then the different in HDMI signal ability is purely the chroma.
 
Just got a new KS8000 and I swear it loves to change all of my settings at the drop of a hat. Especially the ECO nonsense.
 
Domingo said:
Just got a new KS8000 and I swear it loves to change all of my settings at the drop of a hat. Especially the ECO nonsense.
Click to expand...

My JS9000 tries to identify the source of the video and remember the settings for that source. So, with certain changes (like refresh rate, or new drivers, etc.) it will sometimes think it is a new video source, and I have to go in and set everything up the way I like it again, including going into the system menu and re-enabling game mode.
 
Zarathustra[H] said:
My JS9000 tries to identify the source of the video and remember the settings for that source. So, with certain changes (like refresh rate, or new drivers, etc.) it will sometimes think it is a new video source, and I have to go in and set everything up the way I like it again, including going into the system menu and re-enabling game mode.
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Yup, that's exactly what keeps happening. New driver, back to Eco mode. New refresh rate, back to Eco mode. Internal apps, back to Eco. Different resolution, it's on again.
I wish I could turn that off permanently. My older Sony had a set of master settings that everyone would be based upon. Things like interpolation and game mode were a single button toggle. Thanks to these super stripped down 4-button remotes, that just isn't possible anymore. Now it's a multi-step process for anything.
 
Domingo said:
Yup, that's exactly what keeps happening. New driver, back to Eco mode. New refresh rate, back to Eco mode. Internal apps, back to Eco. Different resolution, it's on again.
I wish I could turn that off permanently. My older Sony had a set of master settings that everyone would be based upon. Things like interpolation and game mode were a single button toggle. Thanks to these super stripped down 4-button remotes, that just isn't possible anymore. Now it's a multi-step process for anything.
Click to expand...


Yeah, I find it annoying too. I hate it when systems try to be overly helpful in ways that just wind up being annoying.

Luckily enough, this is pretty rare for me, but it still happens.
 
I just noticed a new software update is available for my 9000. Has anyone installed it and noted any difference in lag or anything else? I'm pretty happy with my current performance so I'm reluctant to try it. Is it even possible to revert to old versions?
 
randyest said:
I just noticed a new software update is available for my 9000. Has anyone installed it and noted any difference in lag or anything else? I'm pretty happy with my current performance so I'm reluctant to try it. Is it even possible to revert to old versions?
Click to expand...


I keep mine disconnected from the network, so I hadn't noticed.

I really wish Samsung would provide a detailed change log.

It is insane to ask people to update software without a full change log.
 
Zarathustra[H] said:
I keep mine disconnected from the network, so I hadn't noticed.

I really wish Samsung would provide a detailed change log.

It is insane to ask people to update software without a full change log.
Click to expand...

Keep mine disabled as well since the "logging in" banner at the top of the screen every time you turn the TV on is annoying and blocks screen real estate for a good 10 seconds.
 
So I picked up a 49KS8500 and absolutely love it. Thanks so much for the guide on here. It has helped tremendously. It's an absolutely beautiful picture. I've hardly noticed any input lag playing FPS and it's a real treat playing MMO's. The one question I do have though is that Nvidia sent out their new driver update and my 4k experience got terrible. I rolled back to the previous driver and everything was good. Anyone else have this issue? Thanks again for all your help!!

Wares
 
Waresdom said:
So I picked up a 49KS8500 and absolutely love it. Thanks so much for the guide on here. It has helped tremendously. It's an absolutely beautiful picture. I've hardly noticed any input lag playing FPS and it's a real treat playing MMO's. The one question I do have though is that Nvidia sent out their new driver update and my 4k experience got terrible. I rolled back to the previous driver and everything was good. Anyone else have this issue? Thanks again for all your help!!

Wares
Click to expand...

Samsung's TV's try to remember specific settings for each source.

I've noticed that sometimes (but not always) when you use new resolutions and / or refresh rates or update drivers, they will forget some or all of the settings, resulting in awful quality. It happens to me, but not terribly often, and when it does, I usually just go through the initial setup again.

This could be it. I haven't had any issues like this with the latest drivers.
 
Zarathustra[H] said:
Samsung's TV's try to remember specific settings for each source.

I've noticed that sometimes (but not always) when you use new resolutions and / or refresh rates or update drivers, they will forget some or all of the settings, resulting in awful quality. It happens to me, but not terribly often, and when it does, I usually just go through the initial setup again.

This could be it. I haven't had any issues like this with the latest drivers.
Click to expand...


Do you reset the TV to defaults and run through the setup? I made sure to check all my settings and they looked to be fine.
 
Waresdom said:
Do you reset the TV to defaults and run through the setup? I made sure to check all my settings and they looked to be fine.
Click to expand...

No, I just recheck all the settings.

One thing it could be also, is that sometimes when you upgrade the drivers, on the resolution page, nvidia resets the HDMI RGB range from "Full" back down to "Limited", which would make stuff look bad (like your blacks wouldn't be as black, and colors could be off, etc.)

I'd check this as well.

Generally:

Full (source) -> Full (TV): The Best
Limited (Source) -> Limited (TV) OK, but not quite as good.
Limited (Source) -> Full (TV): awful
Full (source) -> Limited (TV): awful

Not all devices use the same terminology. Nvidia uses Full vs Limited (I think), and if I recall Samsung TV's call them "Normal" vs "limited". Other devices may use other terminology.
 
Anyone know if there's some way to keep the KS8000 models from swapping into "PC Mode" automatically? I've tried renaming the input, swapping it to a Blu-Ray player, swapping the color mode in the Nvidia control panel, etc. None of it works consistently, yet every now and then it simply won't do it. Anyone have any tricks? Can I disable it somehow?
 
Zarathustra[H] said:
No, I just recheck all the settings.

One thing it could be also, is that sometimes when you upgrade the drivers, on the resolution page, nvidia resets the HDMI RGB range from "Full" back down to "Limited", which would make stuff look bad (like your blacks wouldn't be as black, and colors could be off, etc.)

I'd check this as well.

Generally:

Full (source) -> Full (TV): The Best
Limited (Source) -> Limited (TV) OK, but not quite as good.
Limited (Source) -> Full (TV): awful
Full (source) -> Limited (TV): awful

Not all devices use the same terminology. Nvidia uses Full vs Limited (I think), and if I recall Samsung TV's call them "Normal" vs "limited". Other devices may use other terminology.
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Ok I will check again. I didn't have issues with picture quality. It was unplayable laggy. There was no smoothness whatsoever at 4k. If I backed the resolution down it was smooth but obviously blurry. I'm using a GigabyteG1 1080 by the way.
 
Waresdom said:
Ok I will check again. I didn't have issues with picture quality. It was unplayable laggy. There was no smoothness whatsoever at 4k. If I backed the resolution down it was smooth but obviously blurry. I'm using a GigabyteG1 1080 by the way.
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Ahh. I think I know what happened, and it has nothing to do with the TV.

You are probably experiencing this driver bug

With the latest driver, some pascal GPU's (but not all for some reason) have their memory clock stuck at 810Mhz, leading to all kinds of framerate drops, lag and problems.

Doesn't seem to be a patch yet, but they've said it's coming.
 
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Nice...that makes me feel better. I should check my OC software to see what it's at when I do install the driver. Thanks!
 
All I have to say is... sexy, very very sexy. I never though of this type of setup. I would do the same setup but maybe a little smaller monitor as my main haha. Beautiful tho!
 
I know this is a 2015 thread but it seems like a good place to post this. My issue is as follows (copy / paste from the 2016 TV thread):

I picked up a UE43KS7500 (that's the UK designation - I think is KS8500 in the US) at the weekend. Along with one of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/DisplayPor...?ie=UTF8&qid=1480328014&sr=8-1&keywords=uptab

It's running off my 780Ti, Displayport to the adapter linked above and then HDMI out to the connection box for the TV.

I have configured my nvidia control panel to be 3840 x 2160, YCbCR 4:4:4. However, I am unable to select 10-bit per channel (only 8-bit is presented in the drop down) and I am fairly sure I am not getting 4:4:4 on the display. The test images look crushed / fuzzy (the ones with coloured text on various backgrounds that you view at 100% zoom / 1:1 pixel mapping).

Any ideas on what I am doing wrong? I have enabled HDMI UHD Colour in the TV settings but this doesn't seem to make much difference.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
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The adapter doesnt support higher than 8bit colours at 4K res.
It explicitly states
" Supports display resolution up to 4096 x 2160 at 60Hz frame rate with 24-bit color"

You dont need 10bit colour to get 4:4:4, they are independent of each other apart from bandwidth requirement.
As such, setting 10bit will prevent you from getting 4:4:4 at 4K res because there isnt enough bandwidth.
You may not even get the setting for 10bit at 4K.
It will work at lower res.

You have the right TV and DP adapter to get 4K 24bit 4:4:4.
I assume you have a genuine 18Gbps capable HDMI cable.

Problems could be an impedance mismatch between the TV/cable or cable/DP adapter.
Try different HDMI 2 ports on the TV in case one is a better match with the cable.
Try a different 18Gbps HDMI cable in case your cable is a bad match or is too low bandwidth.

I read that older HDMI1.4 native cards may not allow a 4:4:4 signal to be sent at 4K over DP.
But I dont recall whether that was stated by someone who knew what they were doing.
fyi only.
 
Hi Nenu,

Thank you for the input. Sorry if I'm asking the wrong / stupid questions. However, the specs also state: "Supports RGB up to 12 bpc, YCbCr4:4:4, 4:2:2 and 4:2:0 up to 12 bpc".

Am I missing something, does that not suggest 4:4:4 and 8/10/12bpc? Or is saying 4:4:4 and then separately 4:2:2 and 4:2:0 up to 12bpc.

I'll try another cable, mine are "High Speed with Ethernet" but not sure they're legit HDMI 2.0. I've ordered an Amazon Basics cable: https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasi...id=1480340559&sr=8-2&keywords=hdmi+2.0+18gbps

Lets see if that helps.
 
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Here's a question - is there any way to make the Xbox One display PC/Full RGB correctly with these Samsung sets? Yes, I can enable it, but it won't show but about 1/2 of the black color spectrum. In the calibration tests, the eye and sun don't even show up.
I can enable Limited RGB, but everything is washed out and blacks are just various shades of gray. That looks worse than the crushed black RGB setup. It's also about 2x brighter than every other device on my system. Is there any trick to getting PC RGB to display properly? It works on literally every other device I have except this one and the WiiU, which can only display via Limited.
 
Domingo said:
Here's a question - is there any way to make the Xbox One display PC/Full RGB correctly with these Samsung sets? Yes, I can enable it, but it won't show but about 1/2 of the black color spectrum. In the calibration tests, the eye and sun don't even show up.
I can enable Limited RGB, but everything is washed out and blacks are just various shades of gray. That looks worse than the crushed black RGB setup. It's also about 2x brighter than every other device on my system. Is there any trick to getting PC RGB to display properly? It works on literally every other device I have except this one and the WiiU, which can only display via Limited.
Click to expand...

I can't speak to consoles, as I haven't owned one since the 80's, but if it is not displaying properly when set to "full", this would seem to me to be a source issue, not a TV issue.

With all HDMI sources and TV's you have to set the range on both sides. You would need to set the Xbox to "full" and set the TV to "full" (or set both to limited, but that is worse)

Mismatched settings will look terrible.
 
Zarathustra[H] said:
I can't speak to consoles, as I haven't owned one since the 80's, but if it is not displaying properly when set to "full", this would seem to me to be a source issue, not a TV issue.

With all HDMI sources and TV's you have to set the range on both sides. You would need to set the Xbox to "full" and set the TV to "full" (or set both to limited, but that is worse)

Mismatched settings will look terrible.
Click to expand...

Yeah, that's the trick - everything is set fine. Every other device works fine, too. My PC is set to Full RGB with no issues and so is the PS4. There are a bunch of threads claiming that Full/PC RGB on the Xbox One is simply broken, yet there are people with actual PC monitors that claim it works okay for them. Others have claimed that DVI works, but HDMI does not. I'm trying to figure out if there's some way to make it work without having to re-calibrate my TV every single time I swap over to the Xbox One. If it's just borked, I guess I'm okay with that. I think it's the struggle of trying to make it work that has bugged me.
 
Syphon Filter said:
Hi Nenu,

Thank you for the input. Sorry if I'm asking the wrong / stupid questions. However, the specs also state: "Supports RGB up to 12 bpc, YCbCr4:4:4, 4:2:2 and 4:2:0 up to 12 bpc".

Am I missing something, does that not suggest 4:4:4 and 8/10/12bpc? Or is saying 4:4:4 and then separately 4:2:2 and 4:2:0 up to 12bpc.
Click to expand...

It will do above 8 bit/colour at lower res than 4K.
4K 8bit 4:4:4 60Hz is almost 15Gbps not including HDCP.
10bit is 25% higher bps @ just above 18gbps not inc HDCP.
HDCP overhead is reported to be 20% for HDCP 2.1 but I cant find proof.
HDCP 2.2 is supposed to need a bit more.
(There is enough bandwidth inc HDCP to do 4K 10bit 60Hz at 4:2:2 but the adapter needs to support that at 4K)

Assuming 20% overhead for HDCP 2.1, 4K 8bit 4:4:4 60Hz is almost dead on 18Gbps, just under. So it is already maxed.
This is why you need a cable that has no problems and perfect connections.
If you are connected with HDCP 2.2 it could be the reason why you cannot get any better than 4:2:2.
I cannot find how to disable or downgrade HDCP on HDMI 2.0 but passing through an HDCP 2.1 device should do it.
There are workarounds for HDMI 1.4.

It should support 4:4:4 at any res 4K and below.


Note that Blu Ray is 4:2:0 and 30Hz.
There is PLENTY of bandwidth to do HDR at 4K, with HDCP 2.2.
It should even do 60Hz 10bit. 12bit might not be possible, havent done the maths.
 
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Syphon Filter said:
You mean at 30Hz though right?

Check this out:

https://k.kramerav.com/support/bwcalculator.asp

3840x2160 @ 60Hz @ 8bpc = 14.93Gbps
3840x2160 @ 50Hz @ 8bpc = 12.44Gbps
3840x2160 @ 30Hz @ 8bpc = 7.46Gbps

3840x2160 @ 60Hz @ 10bpc = 17.92Gbps
3840x2160 @ 50Hz @ 10bpc = 14.93Gbps
3840x2160 @ 30Hz @ 10bpc = 8.96Gbps
Click to expand...
No, I was very specific about exactly that.

+20% for HDCP 2.1
more for HDCP 2,2

I covered that in the post above.
 
I wasn't countering anything you said. Rather confirming it...

You mentioned you hadn't done the maths. So I used to calculator I linked to do it.

I could have been clearer that the numbers are for the video only, no HDCP or anything else.
 
np, didnt mean to bite, was short on explanation time.
Yeah, HDCP takes a f. ton of bw !
 
Oh by the way, I renamed the input to PC and disabled Game Mode. I think that has helped and I am now getting YCbCr 4:4:4 (or RGB Full) actually coming through.
 
Oh good.
I dont have a 4K TV to play with so I leave that side mostly to the other guys.

btw, forgot to mention the bandwidth calculator you used is for 4:4:4.
4:2:2 only needs 1/2 the bandwidth, 4:2:0 needs 1/4.
I also forgot that 4:2:0 is so low.
This is why HDMI 1.4 cables work ok for Blu Ray 4K movies, and NVidia gave the option to do 4K 60 with old cables and HDMI 1.4 cards but with pants colour quality. AMD still had to use 4K 30 max though.

Some higher quality old cables can actually do 18Gbps. The shorter the length, the much better the chance.
/ramble
 
Anyone have much experience with HDR and the KS8000? On my setup, no matter what I do with the default settings, it looks washed out. Even the PS4's OS looks washed out. It's way too dark, blacks are grey, and everything looks cloudy when an HDR game is playing. It's just dark and the colors are all really dull.
Yet when I enable dynamic contrast, everything pops. It even makes the color scheme match the way things look without HDR enabled. Is HDR reliant on dynamic contrast or is it actually supposed to look extra dark with no color? Opinions online vary from "it's supposed to look dull and your normal color scheme is wrong" to "HDR relies on dynamic contrast over HDMI."
Any feedback?
 
Is that a US designation KS8000?

You need to go into the settings and enable HDMI UHD Colour I think. And also make sure that it's enabled in the PS4.
 
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