2015 Samsung 4k TV as a Monitor Set Up Guide

Hey gang, I found this guide and it's been most helpful, but I'm still having one problem and have a few questions.

The Problem:
I know of the regedit fix for the windows being moved bug, but it's still not working. If the monitor powers down (shuts off), I power it up and all the windows are jammed up in the top left corner. It sucks because it takes me time to set them up and space them out. I have my SIMULATED just like my monitor config with PrimSurfSize.cx at 3840 and PrimSrufSize.cy at 2160. The only difference is in the sub 00 folder with PixelRate and HSyncFreq. My monitor shows VSyncFreq.Numerator at 30 while the Simulated is at 60. I can lock the desktop and return to desktop no issue, it's just when the TV powers off.

My Questions:
First, any idea on how to fix that. I can never let the TV shut off completely due to fear of losing window/program placement.

Second, I'm doing RGB 4:4:4 Full at 30hz. I have a r9 280x video card. The primary use of this TV is for web development and coding, so the look of text/font is important to me along with input lag. I'm literally staring at the screen all day. I'm thinking of getting the GTX 970 in order to achieve the 60hz. However, what improvements will I see by doing that? I'm not exactly understanding the gains and if worth $330.

All feedback appreciated.

Cheers!
Ryan
 
Hey gang, I found this guide and it's been most helpful, but I'm still having one problem and have a few questions.

The Problem:
I know of the regedit fix for the windows being moved bug, but it's still not working. If the monitor powers down (shuts off), I power it up and all the windows are jammed up in the top left corner. It sucks because it takes me time to set them up and space them out. I have my SIMULATED just like my monitor config with PrimSurfSize.cx at 3840 and PrimSrufSize.cy at 2160. The only difference is in the sub 00 folder with PixelRate and HSyncFreq. My monitor shows VSyncFreq.Numerator at 30 while the Simulated is at 60. I can lock the desktop and return to desktop no issue, it's just when the TV powers off.

My Questions:
First, any idea on how to fix that. I can never let the TV shut off completely due to fear of losing window/program placement.

Second, I'm doing RGB 4:4:4 Full at 30hz. I have a r9 280x video card. The primary use of this TV is for web development and coding, so the look of text/font is important to me along with input lag. I'm literally staring at the screen all day. I'm thinking of getting the GTX 970 in order to achieve the 60hz. However, what improvements will I see by doing that? I'm not exactly understanding the gains and if worth $330.

All feedback appreciated.

Cheers!
Ryan

Casbboy,

I have a 2014 model Samsung 4k tv and a GTX 970, which was only capable of 4k @ 30hz and it sucked. I had to buy the 2015 Samsung evolution kit to get the 4:4:4 @ 60hz. I think it was worth it. Although, if you want it for games, the screen tearing is still pretty bad at 60hz without vsync. It wont compare to a Gsync or Freesynce monitor.

As for the regedit fix for the windows icons. I deleted all of my entries and restarted the PC. This eliminated all the old entries. Then I changed the ALL of the Simulated values to match the monitor's values. It stopped the icons from jumping around but i still have the hand shake issue where I get a "no signal detected" when I switch sources from HDMI 1 to HDMI 2 or on startup. I have to change the source back and forth to get an image on the pc. The most annoying part is that it resizes the icon text size from 14 back to the default 9. That drives me nuts! :|
 
Thanks for the reply! I deleted all the old entries as well, and then reboot created one dedicated to TV and simulated. I am going to try changing all variables. Like I said, everything comes back fine and proper.... as long as the TV doesn't shut off. I've disabled the TV no-signal shutoff to prevent it. So the computer will stop sending display output, but the TV will remain on. Closest thing I can get to standby.

The nice thing about the js9000 is that it's input edit allows you to save settings and quickly swap profiles between Game and PC. But most the time I'll just be doing video and text.

Cheers!
Ryan
 
Curious about something. These TVs are supposed to have 120hz refresh rate yet can only accept 60hz input. Does that mean when you use them to play pc games they are limited to displaying 60 frames per second?
 
Curious about something. These TVs are supposed to have 120hz refresh rate yet can only accept 60hz input. Does that mean when you use them to play pc games they are limited to displaying 60 frames per second?

Yes.

The panels in the TV's are 120hz capable, but they only accept up to 60hz signals.

The extra refresh rate is used to refresh the screen twice with the same image.

I'm not quite sure how this works, but it has been suggested to me that it is done in order to eliminate ghosting, which would be much higher with a native 60hz panel.

It would be cool to be able to output to these at 120hz, but something would need to change for that to be possible. HDMI 2.0 can just barely handle 60hz at 4k, so 120hz would not be possible. You would need a displayport 1.3 capable screen and video card for that to be possible. (you'd probably also need about 4 Titan X's in sli in order to get even close getting a usable fixed 120hz in most titles :p )

It would be cool if Samsung were to come out with a connect box that introduced DP 1.3 and 120hz signal capability, but I don't even know if that is possible with the way it is designed.
 
Got an update.

I removed my r9 280x in favor of a GTX 970 so I can take advantage of HDMI 2.0. Drove me crazy I was spending $330 for this, but was told worth it. Purchased an HDMI 2.0 cable (6ft) from Amazon and got it setup today. Now running RGB Full at 60hz instead of 30hz. Is there a difference? HECK YES. The TV now definitely feels more like a monitor. The key types feel more responsive and moving a mouse has become super smooth. I couldn't stand that I felt half-retarded with mouse movement on 30hz, but now where I want/expect the mouse to go it goes.

In short, definitely recommend getting 60hz capable card and cable if using TV as workstation. It's pretty much a must.

Thanks for the help!
 
Got an update.

I removed my r9 280x in favor of a GTX 970 so I can take advantage of HDMI 2.0. Drove me crazy I was spending $330 for this, but was told worth it. Purchased an HDMI 2.0 cable (6ft) from Amazon and got it setup today. Now running RGB Full at 60hz instead of 30hz. Is there a difference? HECK YES. The TV now definitely feels more like a monitor. The key types feel more responsive and moving a mouse has become super smooth. I couldn't stand that I felt half-retarded with mouse movement on 30hz, but now where I want/expect the mouse to go it goes.

In short, definitely recommend getting 60hz capable card and cable if using TV as workstation. It's pretty much a must.

Thanks for the help!

FWIW if you only need 2D/media playback you can go as low as a 950 for hdmi 2.0 and be just fine, I'd actually recommend that for a htpc to reduce power & cooling requirements for less noise etc.

The 950/960 actually have dedicated HEVC/x265 decode support "VP7" and HDCP 2.2 as well, while the 970/980/ti/titan-x are "VP6" hybrid HEVC decode with HDCP 1.3 decoders hdcp ref
This might come into play for 4k streaming from PC at some point.
 
I was about to buy a Samsung 4K monitor but I couldn't get it to work with my 2015 13" MacBook pro laptop. So I went with Dell and it works great!
 
Great guide! Just picked up a 40" 7500 locally from Crutchfield at a great deal. Picked up an Asus Strix GTX 950 a few days ago from Jet for $134 w/ shipping, so I'm less than $1300 in total!

I had been running one of those Seiki 39" 4k @ 30Hz using the built in HDMI on my Asus Hero mobo for the last 2 years and thought I had a great display. Well, compared to my new setup, not so much!

After the initial turn on, the display was already showing great potential, but as I was following this guide, it kept getting progressively better and once I got to the PC Mode part, it just popped. Wow, just wow!

Again, awesome guide!
 
I am currently running a Dell 3415W monitor as Primary and a Dell 3014 as a 2ndardy. I primarily game on the 3415. I am using a single 980Ti GPU. Besides lacking in GPU muscle (which I may wait for pascal), do you guys feel I would notice the difference? (Right now i am playing World of Warships, Rise of the Tomb Raider, Fallout 4, and might checkout The Division next)
 
Casbboy,

I have a 2014 model Samsung 4k tv and a GTX 970, which was only capable of 4k @ 30hz and it sucked. I had to buy the 2015 Samsung evolution kit to get the 4:4:4 @ 60hz. I think it was worth it. Although, if you want it for games, the screen tearing is still pretty bad at 60hz without vsync. It wont compare to a Gsync or Freesynce monitor.

As for the regedit fix for the windows icons. I deleted all of my entries and restarted the PC. This eliminated all the old entries. Then I changed the ALL of the Simulated values to match the monitor's values. It stopped the icons from jumping around but i still have the hand shake issue where I get a "no signal detected" when I switch sources from HDMI 1 to HDMI 2 or on startup. I have to change the source back and forth to get an image on the pc. The most annoying part is that it resizes the icon text size from 14 back to the default 9. That drives me nuts! :|

I too was having the same issue. I changed the values as stated in OP but my windows were still resizing into the upper left corner after I turn off the TV. I deleted all entries, restarted and changed the only entry left to the value of my TV. I restarted and I still get the same issue. Anyone have any ideas to fix it? I have a Samsung ju6500
 
Read Kyle's Titan X article a while back. Just read Z's guide today. Feck!!!!! I may be spending $ in the near future.... Currently only have a single 980Ti, anyone have this TV and only 1 980Ti currently? Don't think I could swing a 2nd Ti for a while, perhaps even having to wait till the next line of GPU's are released. P.S. Just to clarify, Z stated 900's have HDMI 2.0, went to verify my card does, and its not listed on MSI site. Just says HDMI as an output.
 
anyone have this TV and only 1 980Ti currently? Don't think I could swing a 2nd Ti for a while, perhaps even having to wait till the next line of GPU's are released. P.S. Just to clarify, Z stated 900's have HDMI 2.0, went to verify my card does, and its not listed on MSI site. Just says HDMI as an output.

I am using the 48" JS9000 with a single 980Ti. I "downgraded" from two 980s in SLI and it hasn't had trouble with anything I've played. Everything runs very smoothly. Note however that I tend to run a bit behind as far as my game log, so I'm probably not playing the absolute most demanding games out there but it's done an admirable job with what I've thrown at it.

IMO, SLI 980/980Ti are not required for an enjoyable experience. You could certainly get by with your 980Ti until prices on them drop enough to justify picking up a second one.

As far as your HDMI question, all of them should be 2.0 on these cards even if the manufacturers do not list them as such. HDMI 2.0 outputs are standard on the 9xx cards.
 
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You're welcome, but I had to make an edit. I meant to say that SLI 980s are *not* required for an enjoyable experience, unless you are playing way more demanding games than I am. Like GTAV with all of the distance/detail sliders and AA maxed out + the "realism" graphical mods or something like that. I am generally able to play games at 3840x2160 with high or max detail smoothly. I generally don't max out AA as I find that 4K lessens the need for it. Dual Tis would undoubtedly provide higher frame rates but we're limited to 60hz on these anyway, and I'm not a fan of the microstutter that SLI introduces in some titles. I could really feel it in GTAV which was one reason I sold my 980s. I know that my average/peak frame rates probably aren't as high now, but I love the seamless single card experience and I wanted to see what benefit more VRAM would have at 4K. I'm waiting to see how much of an improvement Pascal will bring, but I certainly don't feel that my current setup provides a sub-par experience.
 
Ok, I caved and bought the Samsung UN48JS9000! I paid $1,150.00. No Shipping, no Tax. Total, out the door. Just seemed to good of a deal to pass up.

Anyone else interested, here is the link you need.

Edit: I have a Onkyo TX-NR636 that supports HDMI 2.0. Anyone think it would add any input lag running this between the PC and TV?
 
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I have the 65js8500 with the TH01 panel and I did some latency tests for those who care. I am using this test tft.vanity.dk inputlag html test with the 240fps camera mode on my iPhone. I have it running on both my tv and monitor at 1080p. Then I hit pause a couple times and calculate the difference between the two. Its pretty simple and very accurate.

In game mode: 28ms (17 ms (TV) + 11ms (Monitor))
In Movie mode (same calibration as rtings has): 76ms (65ms + 11ms for the monitor)
In Move mode with the 10point white balance turned off: 71ms (60ms + 11ms for the monitor)
In Move mode with the 10point white balance turned off and color space set to native: 66ms (55ms + 11ms for the monitor)

All it all its pretty quick even with the movie mode on and a custom calibration. I'm pretty happy.

I can't post links to the websites I used yet. I'll post once I have permission. I used to have an account on here, but it appears to have been deleted. :(
 
I too was having the same issue. I changed the values as stated in OP but my windows were still resizing into the upper left corner after I turn off the TV. I deleted all entries, restarted and changed the only entry left to the value of my TV. I restarted and I still get the same issue. Anyone have any ideas to fix it? I have a Samsung ju6500
Is no one else having the same issue as I am having? I would love some help. Please?
 
I have an annoying issue with my JU7500 when some Dialog boxes are in use with Windows 10. The text in the boxes are not fully displaying the text. I have spent hours altering settings in both the TV and my GPU settings and I can not find a solution. Any ideas?
 
I have an annoying issue with my JU7500 when some Dialog boxes are in use with Windows 10. The text in the boxes are not fully displaying the text. I have spent hours altering settings in both the TV and my GPU settings and I can not find a solution. Any ideas?

Screen shots and a list of what you have done might speed up anyone being able to help you.
 
Interested in the JU7100 series, particularly in the 60 or 65" version, to the owners who own this TV, how is it as a monitor? Does it suffer from backlight bleeding or banding? How fast the TV turn on and how long does it take for the firmware update to complete? Just asking because I recently bought a POS Sony TV and it suffered from backlight bleeding, took more than 30 seconds just to initialize and turn on and took literally almost half an hour just to update the firmware TV, not to mention numerous issues such as the TV flickering several times on the first minutes of use because it would always default to 12:00AM and would fix itself few minutes later by causing the screen to flicker because of it.
 
here is the trouble I am having with the Windows 10 boxes not showing the text correctly. It is happening with a lot of boxes and is in most cases much worse than this picture. I can not resize.
IMG_5005.jpg
 
can anyone recommend me a hdmi cable to go from my GTX980Ti to my Samsung JU7500?? I have a KabelDirekt one at the moment but I am having some drop outs now and then.
 
Im looking at getting this tv the Sony XBR43X830C or the Samsung UN40JU6500 im going to be using it as a Pc monitor and i have a gtx970 to use one of them in 4K mode, how different it will be the 120Hz to the 60Hz when i set the resolution to 4k 60Hz if i run in 4K mode all the time will having the 120Hz not matter, and movie wise in 4K on my pc. i do game, edit videos 4K and 1080P and photos and use my pc a lot, watch movie here and there..
 
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You can do 10 and 12 bit at YCbCr 4:2:2 and 4:2:0, but the dynamic range is forced to "limited". As far as DP to HDMI. I would doubt that this would work, but if you have an adapter that supports DP to HDMI 2.0, you could always try. If its DP to HDMI 1.4b, or below, I believe you'll be forced to 30Hz due to the HDMI spec limitations.
 
You can do 10 and 12 bit at YCbCr 4:2:2 and 4:2:0, but the dynamic range is forced to "limited". As far as DP to HDMI. I would doubt that this would work, but if you have an adapter that supports DP to HDMI 2.0, you could always try. If its DP to HDMI 1.4b, or below, I believe you'll be forced to 30Hz due to the HDMI spec limitations.
I guess we need to wait for 2016 tv's lineups, there should be hdmi 2.0a, and i hope 10 bit 444 4k 60hz for real HDR
 
Help?

I just got a 40" ju6500 to play with, and every time I try to play windowed game, the TV loses the signal/connection to the hdmi port, and goes into a flicker seizure.

This does not happen with my other 4k monitor, using the same hdmi adapter.

I can have the desktop extended across the laptop and 4k TV, and play the windowed game in the laptop screen, and the TV will still lose the hdmi connection and spaz out.
Or I can use the 4k TV as the only screen, and shortly after I start a game, the TV will start flashing nonstop and losing the hdmi connection.

I have i7 6700hq, optimus with gtx960m.

Why is the samsung tv losing the connection?

I can also trigger a connection loss when I play 4k video in Windows 10 Movies & TV app. samsung tv will randomly blink and cause laptop screen to flash like someone just pulled the hdmi cord.


Check this out, I recorded it...
Samsung TV randomly losing connection...



and then unplugged hdmi cable from samsung and plugged it into my 4k monitor without issue...
 
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Help?

I just got a 40" ju6500 to play with, and every time I try to play windowed game, the TV loses the signal/connection to the hdmi port, and goes into a flicker seizure.

This does not happen with my other 4k monitor, using the same hdmi adapter.

I can have the desktop extended across the laptop and 4k TV, and play the windowed game in the laptop screen, and the TV will still lose the hdmi connection and spaz out.
Or I can use the 4k TV as the only screen, and shortly after I start a game, the TV will start flashing nonstop and losing the hdmi connection.

I have i7 6700hq, optimus with gtx960m.

Why is the samsung tv losing the connection?

I can also trigger a connection loss when I play 4k video in Windows 10 Movies & TV app. samsung tv will randomly blink and cause laptop screen to flash like someone just pulled the hdmi cord.


Check this out, I recorded it...
Samsung TV randomly losing connection...



and then unplugged hdmi cable from samsung and plugged it into my 4k monitor without issue...



I've never seen anything like that with mine. Usually when I see disconnection issues I suspect the cable. For some reason these Samsung TV's are VERY picky about which HDMI cables they work with.

Why are you using a HDMI adapter rather than native HDMI output? Can you try with native HDMI output from the GPU instead and report back if the problem persists?

Since it is a laptop with optimus, I can't hlep but wonder if the video output is coming from the Nvidia card, with a frame buffer transfer from the IGP, or if it's the other way around. If it's the other way around, and you are connected directly to the IGP witrh framebuffer transfer from the nvidia GPU, you definitely won't be getting true HDMI2. I also wonder if you can get true HDMI2 with any adapter.

I have only used these TV's with desktops and desktop Nvidia 9xx GPU's. That's the only configuration I know for sure will work well.
 
What's the current 40" 4K recommendation? System is in signature.

Thanks!
 
Thanks for the guide, I purchased the Samsung UN55JS9000 55" a few months back and the guide worked great. I recently realized I never gave feedback after purchase and felt like a jerk since the help given in this guide was so useful...so here is my feedback.

After using the 55" for a week or so, I adjusted to the dramatically larger size and enjoy it. I know a lot of people question the 55" size and I did too, but the 55" was cheaper than the 48" at the time I purchased and I am now glad I went the direction I did.

I have a portrait 27" on the side which probably wasn't the best choice (looks tiny next to the 55" and not enough horizontal space in portrait but too big to go landscape in my work area).

The issues I ran into that others have mentioned:
1) Text boxes in windows 10 often don't scale well. I've played with various settings and made it better, but still unsatisfactory.
2) I purchased the media bridge cable that a few people recommended but a 8' long variant since I thought I might need more than 6'. I had issues with periodic screen blanking for fractions of a second. I purchased the same brand but 6' version and the problem went away and it turns out that 6' was long enough for my setup.

I use a single TitanX card and gaming works out fine for the old games I play at 4k. I've tried a few newer games and fps was acceptable, but not ideal. I am looking forward to the new high end cards later this year/early next year.

I hooked up a TiVo mini on it and between that and the built in Netflix, Vudu, etc., I'm loving the experience.
 
Hello guys, I have a problem with my UE40JU6572. After a long thinking I decided to buy it as a PC monitor because it is the last 40" curved TV to buy it seems. The problem is that HDMI 1 does not accept 4K signal at all and goes to no signal! When I poweron the pc I can see the screen UNTIL the windows login screen which is in 4K - then no signal. If I boot when having just fullHD 1080p then it works and signal is there. Increasing it in the Nvidia control panel to 4K causes no signal. Other HDMI inputs on TV work with 4K. Funny is that it works when I use DVI-D - HDMI cable to connect my GTX 970 from DVI-D to HDMI 1. Connection from HDMI to HDMI 1 causes no signal issue. What do you think can it be? Maybe too long HDMI cable? Or some GPU settings? Also when I disconnect the cable from HDMI 3 and plug it into HDMI 2 for example the signal is lost even when I change the source in remote control. I have to reboot the pc to make the TV get the signal again. This does not happen with the DVI-D HDMI cable - I can plug it to whichever HDMI input on a TV and signal goes through.
 
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I just got my 48js9000 last night and thanks for the post, I set mine up really quickly. I'm enjoying the quality and real estate of the screen very much.

One thing that I'm trying to solve though. Hopefully I can get help from here :)

1) I have 3 monitors total now: a HP 22" on left as #3, JS9000 in middle as #2, Sony 23" on right as #1 (main). When I only need a quick use of the computer, I'd like to just turn the Sony on, do some work and log off. But if I have other applications opened up in one of the other monitors, I can't access them while these 2 monitors are off. If I try to open another instance of the application, it would also open up in that particular monitor it was on, even while the monitor is off.

2) Also, even if we have the application open in the current monitor, pop ups for some of the applications (not sure if all does the same or not) would go to the other monitors. So we have to end up turning them on to drag the pop-up back over - then turn that monitor off. Very annoying. :(

3) Lastly, when I turn the JS on, all 3 monitors would refresh and the windows I set up on it (I have a 4 windows set up for multi tasking) just go haywire: some would resize, some would move to the HP monitor, etc...

Very frustrated.

Is there any setting that I'm missing? I did the regedit changes already.

Thank you
 
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