If I need to purchase another chip, I wonder if it is worth getting something like this http://tinyurl.com/gogmra2 to go with it
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1366 x58 Xeon Enthusiast overclocks club
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I wouldn't bother with the H50, it isn't that much better than your 212, unless of course something is wrong with your cooler. A D15 would be optimal, if that is too pricey you could get something like a Gamer Storm Lucifer which actually isn't all that far off from the D15.
I'd highly recommend you keep hwinfo or something open at all times with some alerts over 80c if you get a new chip.
primetime
Supreme [H]ardness
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install this sidebar and set reasonable temp limits diagnostic sidebar - this new one is very impressive ...you dont want to burn tit up heres what you need to do..take it all down again. Redo the thermal past and post pictures of the hole thing step by step....you got to be doing something wrong...only other idea is like tbob said with the heatspreader being messed up somehow. The heatspreader CAN be removed but requires a fair bit of dexterity and skill. Im more apt to believe your making an error during the cooler install. (could be using to much paste?) dont worry about it crashing from auto settings -mine does that to. Give it some reasonable voltage and it rock solid stable all the way up to 4.2.
IS the cooler itself actually getting hot when stress testing and its reading like 80-90 temps? IF its not scalding hot then its not making a good contact with the heatspreader is what comes to my mind. Or maybe you have virgin ears and not setting the fan to high speed..according to tbob that cooler is loud as fuck...GET A HIGH END AIO or AIR cooler if noise is an issue.
IS the cooler itself actually getting hot when stress testing and its reading like 80-90 temps? IF its not scalding hot then its not making a good contact with the heatspreader is what comes to my mind. Or maybe you have virgin ears and not setting the fan to high speed..according to tbob that cooler is loud as fuck...GET A HIGH END AIO or AIR cooler if noise is an issue.
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primetime
Supreme [H]ardness
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yea i think because on the redo it has some area that touches the cooler without any pasts...your using non-conductive so no risk of spilling off anyway. I always used to spread it out with credit card (or my finger) super thin covering the entire heat spreader, but ow a days they claim its causes bubbles..if it does its never hurt my temps...maybe try to do it like this article. (to be honest know one does it perfect) Applying TIM to direct heatpipe coolers. If it were me i would try 4 med size lines and let excess (if any) spill off
I would also put an extremely thin barrier covering the entire heat spreader...i mean super thin as possible. Me i just dont want any area with zero contact...but that just me..so basically i coat both parts even though they claim - not to do it that way
see even on your first try i see areas not covered..aside from that it not to bad
ok last edit: if i couldn't get the temp down substantially...i would try and put another fan on the other side of that cooler..at least until you get it cooling better. Even mine overclocked to 4400mzh at 1.37v core barely hits 80 much
I would also put an extremely thin barrier covering the entire heat spreader...i mean super thin as possible. Me i just dont want any area with zero contact...but that just me..so basically i coat both parts even though they claim - not to do it that way
see even on your first try i see areas not covered..aside from that it not to bad
ok last edit: if i couldn't get the temp down substantially...i would try and put another fan on the other side of that cooler..at least until you get it cooling better. Even mine overclocked to 4400mzh at 1.37v core barely hits 80 much
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morningreis
[H]ard|Gawd
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It will hold up just fine. There is very little that a [email protected] won't be able to chomp through. Keep in mind it also has 8 more logical cores over an i5.
Graphics card however will need to be beefy.
Good to hear, thanks
Man I still can't believe the chop in these chips. Especially for the price. AND the fact that I happen to build my 1st PC with the Mobo that supports it... Live aint half bad sometimes
Matthew Kane
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Is the E5645 a good clocker? I can buy one for about $70 shipped to down-under and runs at 2.4ghz rather than the 2.13ghz the L5639 is clocked at. This will be going into my HTPC rig which is using a EVGA X58 3 way SLi with i7 930 @ 3.5ghz.
primetime
Supreme [H]ardness
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Ok temps on the left are with the settings posted below, temps on the right are temps at factory settings. Also I should have mentioned earlier, I've had this setup for nearly a year and initially I set the blck to like 181 and changed nothing else. I ran it like that for probably a month or so until I got overclock fail with no idea why, so I set everything default . Fast foward several months later trying to overclock it again. I noticed the stock fan for the hyper 212 was not spinning. I guess thats why I had oc fail long ago. But I now have a noctua fan on it, and it seems to be running properly.
vCore: 1.25v
CPU PLL: 1.8v
QPI 1.25v
vDDR: 1.5
IOH/ICH: 1.25v ,1.20(ICH)
PCI-E: 1.51v
ram speed 1433mhz 'ish
blck 181
multi 22
turbo off
speedstep off
spread spectrum off
cstates defaults on
ram to xmp setting
ram timings default
Temps with prime 95 only ran for about a minute
not sure if you made any progress since last time...but this is mine with prime on max heat test
just using a very old Thermaright 120 extreme with GC-Extreme paste.....Yours is what i would expect from standard intel stock cooler. Those cooler master coolers should be cooling better than that
not sure if you made any progress since last time...but this is mine with prime on max heat test
just using a very old Thermaright 120 extreme with GC-Extreme paste.....Yours is what i would expect from standard intel stock cooler. Those cooler master coolers should be cooling better than that
I'm pretty sure your Thermalright is better than the Hyper 212+ especially with quieter fans. Whatever the case the 212+ should be able to handle 4ghz while keeping temps under 80c.
Also, have an x79 Deluxe and e5-1650 on the way, got a pretty good price on the (non ES) chip and a great price on the board. $150 for each. Should be able to come close to breaking even after selling my board/cpu, but I will need another 8gb stick to run quad channel so I'll end up spending a bit extra. Should be interesting.
Hopefully the e5-1680 v2's will come down in price eventually.
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horrorshow
Lakewood Original
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Ditch that Noctua on the CM Hyper 212+ and replace it with 2 CM Blademaster 120's (the 2000 rpm version!).
I have that and I disabled "smart fan" or whatever in the BIOS to have them run full throttle all the time.
Still whisper quiet and cool as ice.
I have that and I disabled "smart fan" or whatever in the BIOS to have them run full throttle all the time.
Still whisper quiet and cool as ice.
primetime
Supreme [H]ardness
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well it depends on how you do blck wise.....some boards do 200+ without much fuss. I would be tempted to use turbo on that chip...with turbo that one can still do a solid 4.2ghz.....without using turbo id say no higher than 4ghz even
I wonder if it's voltage related perhaps not a great binned CPU in terms of required voltage or PLL chip itself with a lot of older boards if you OC the AGP/PCIe/PCI bus you can get a higher FSB/BCLK though it's like any system component you OC it can come with stability issues data corruption and in "rare" cases permanent damage if you are reckless with it. That's all true with the other stuff people OC and don't think twice about either however.Picked up a Asus Z8NA-D6 for $125 to pair with the matched x5670's that I picked up last year.
Should be interesting.
Edit: It looks like SetFSB does work on this board. The increases seem to be hardly worth it though, someone went from 2.4ghz to 2.448ghz.
Well, it's a limitation of the board itself. On most 1366 dual socket boards there are no settings for overclocking at all in the bios, so setfsb is the only option. I did get it up to around 3.35ghz using setfsb (from 3.2) but the gains really aren't worth it especially when reliability is most important.
As far as corruption is concerned, it is a possibility but in my 15 years of overclocking hardware I've only experienced corruption during extreme overclocking with just barely bootable voltages/settings.
If the system can pass 5h of Prime95 smallffts, 12-15h of blend, and 6-7 passes in memtest86 it is very unlikely that the overclock will cause any corruption. Now, if you are overclocking ram (which I don't suggest for anything other than benching), things can change a bit so I'd change that memtest86 to 10+ passes.
I get the setFSB situation with limited bios options since it's a dual socket workstation board really most all dual and workstation boards rarely provide such options. What I was getting at is if you can adjust and raise PCIe/PCI clock rate with setFSB along side BCLK clock as you raise that it might clock further at least that is the case on quite a few older chip sets. Only mentioned the corruption thing as it's a possibility to be aware particularly with PCIe overclocking which is tied to IDE/SATA though I haven't seen any data corrupt from PCIe OC on a SSD drive or even any of my old SATA data drives a very old 40GB IDE drive corrupted once on a VIA chipset from that kind of OC however HD itself was fine, but had to do a OS reinstall.
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Getting ready to sell my Asus Z8NA-D6 with two x5650 hexcore CPUs and 24gb ram, heatsinks and fans and the Asus sound-card made for that board. What a work horse it is.
Going to list it here at H before I put it on ebay. I have way too many computers.
Just sold two AMD 1045T hexcores and two Gigabyte AMD boards with memory and three 660Ti GPUs. Down to 14 computers. I have a collection.
That Asus Z8NA-D6 and a couple X58 boards are going too. Plus two dual socket 1366 Supermicro boards, two E5620 quads in each, and power supply and power distributor. Server type PSU. One more 660Ti GPU to go.
Got to go. need to make room, too much stuff, my electric bill is way too high.
230 cores running BOINC, I heated my house with ease but it has been a mild Winter
Oh first world problems, I count my lucky stars and give thanks every day.
Going to list it here at H before I put it on ebay. I have way too many computers.
Just sold two AMD 1045T hexcores and two Gigabyte AMD boards with memory and three 660Ti GPUs. Down to 14 computers. I have a collection.
That Asus Z8NA-D6 and a couple X58 boards are going too. Plus two dual socket 1366 Supermicro boards, two E5620 quads in each, and power supply and power distributor. Server type PSU. One more 660Ti GPU to go.
Got to go. need to make room, too much stuff, my electric bill is way too high.
230 cores running BOINC, I heated my house with ease but it has been a mild Winter
Oh first world problems, I count my lucky stars and give thanks every day.
Asus Z8NA-D6 from what I read locks up past 137FSB. I'm curious if the PCIe clock is locked as well and doesn't raise along side BCLK/FSB if that's the case may explain why it locks of as well. If you limit the multiplier in the bios or in windows with software like throttle stop to the minimum does it clock any higher? Really with the multiplier lowered voltage shouldn't be holding the CPU back any. I have a feeling if you raise PCIe clock rate if it is set independent of BCLK you'll be able to achieve a few MHz higher BCLK up to a point PCIe bus clock rate has it's own limitations as well. It would be worth while to look into testing on 775 G31 for example with PCIe 150MHz you can get 500FSB, but with PCIe 100MHz you get 333FSB. Now on P43 PCIe OC is actually less effective due to the fact that PCIe's bus speed is tied to a higher FSB divider meaning less headroom per PCIe OC in raising FSB. That would actually be a really interesting board if in fact PCIe OC does in fact help raise BCLK further at least for those of us that aren't deterred by the idea of a PCIe OC itself.
That's an interesting point. I do know there is something like a slow qpi mode and in that mode I was able to get around 142mhz, but benchmarks were terrible I think Cinebench got around 500 points down from 1440. I haven't really tried much else beyond that.
QPI is different than what I was speaking of, but still interesting however if it's only a 5MHz gain in the majority of cases seem virtually useless unless heavily CPU limited and the impact to the other things are inconsequential for the persons usage they are listed as CSI Links Speed and CSI frequency in that particular bios from what I saw in the PDF file 1.5v max for DDR3 is a bit of a bummer. Another thing you could try is disabling hyper threading to see if it will OC any higher like that, but not only that disabling hyper threading while it has a negative impact to overall multi threaded performance tends to improve single threaded performance a bit which in a 6 core dual socket hex core system could probably be a worth while trade off I'd imagine I think it might even be better on system power as well I know there are some advantages and disadvantages to enabling or disabling HT though.
Hmm, yeah for that machine stability is most important. I run a lot of VM's on it so hyperthreading really helps, a few mhz really doesn't make much difference though.
1.5v is fine as that is what the ram should be running at. 48gb 1333mhz 9-9-9 reg ecc.
Would the fans really make that big of a difference? I need like a 10-12 degree drop from where I am at.
kniaugaudiskis
Limp Gawd
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Yeah, adding a secondary fan on my 212+ for push/pull did not yield any drop in temperatures, either.
primetime
Supreme [H]ardness
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My suggestion is treat your self to a high end cooler...there worth every penny. Get that bad ass AIO cooler if it helps...dont cheap out like before!...And when you do actually build a new system weather its next week or 12 months from now you;ll have that badass cooler to use. Cpu cooler is every bit as important as the power supply (as you already discovered) My thinking is that evo is way under powered for a 5820k overclocking anyway. So get you that highend cpu water cooler you been wanting anyway and keep the evo as a decent backup in case the water cooler ever fails.
If you have room a 240mm AIO cooler might be a good starting point.
primetime
Supreme [H]ardness
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Cant give a recommendation without knowing your case in use.....I think i would like to have some kind of dual fan rad...like a 240mm double fan type . An idea situation would be a modern case that has room on top for this. This would still allow a gpu to use a single rad on back like a fury x if that was in use. I like things simple...cool air coming in on bottom and front with rads on top and back and in that order for priority.
If you didnt have room...a single fan rad could work but i bet those double size rads work much better.
I'm not sure what your current case is, but from your photos it doesn't look like you can fit any larger than a 120mm AIO in there. If that's the case then a high end air cooler would be a better choice unless you want to get a new case.
How about the front? Can you fit a 240mm rad there?
Also, I'm not sure what thermal paste you're using but the white, watery type doesn't usually work very well. I'd get some NT-H1, and on these CPU's a thin line from top to bottom works better than a dot because of the shape of the core.
I don't think you'll be able to fit a decent AIO in that case without some major modifications. I suppose you could cut out your sidepanel and mount the radiator to that. Also, do you have any intake fans in the front?
primetime
Supreme [H]ardness
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i hope you been leaving the case side off all this time......you have zero airflow lol. I like the idea of the inverted case in theoy....but everywhere i look to install a rad in the case is all cramped up....hmmm....like the opposite of aio cooling friendly. i might try to pull in air from the bottom somehow and cut all the shit out of the way in the front of the case and put the 240mm rad there blowing out instead of in.....if you try to blow in all that hot air will be fed straight to the vc cooler. fuck that case sucks for what we need to do. How big is the area in front of the power supply? might be wide enough for a single fan rad? need to measure and see cause that would be the least amount of bullshit modding. It seems with all tha unused space a rad would be best in the front....see if there room to do with out cutting or with as little work cutting....sometimes you can remove stuff that that in the way.....youl have to see if you can open the bottom front up?
Those brackets in front look removable...are they?
Another option would be to cut out the top and mount the rad on the outside, but cutting everything out of the front would probably be best to keep things inside the case. I wouldn't recommend any 120mm AIO, a good air cooler will outperform it.
I've had the case cover on , but ya my case sucks in general. I would go for a new one. But really unsure which one to get for a reasonable price that would be much better. Those brackets can be taken out. The are to right of power supply is just my cd drive and an ssd hard drive. I could remove the cd drive and place the ssd somewhere else.