1366 x58 Xeon Enthusiast overclocks club

With the idle at 145 is that with the CPU scaling turned on in the BIOS and the Windows advanced power saving options on for Minimum processor state? Your computer is really similar to mine (lot of hard drives, kind of big GPU), so it is nice to see that it is that low when just sitting there.


Last check in on the 48GB install: Ooh things are nice and smooth in Windows. Loaded up Music, Chrome, Lightroom and a picture in Photoshop and I'm up at 14GBs. Not sure what I'd ever do to get it over 24GBs used. :eek:
 
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Last time i checked i was getting 165 to about 525 watts used on mine. Figure about 75% efficiency on my old power supply is not to bad
 
MN Scout said:
With the idle at 145 is that with the CPU scaling turned on in the BIOS and the Windows advanced power saving options on for Minimum processor state? Your computer is really similar to mine (lot of hard drives, kind of big GPU), so it is nice to see that it is that low when just sitting there.


Last check in on the 48GB install: Ooh things are nice and smooth in Windows. Loaded up Music, Chrome, Lightroom and a picture in Photoshop and I'm up at 14GBs. Not sure what I'd ever do to get it over 24GBs used. :eek:
Click to expand...

Yeah, all the power saving stuff is enabled. Interestingly my ASRock board with a x5670 @ 4.1ghz (1.3v) pulls about 165w at idle and that has a 7950 with 3 ssd's (raid 0) and only one hard drive.
 
Still at 4Ghz for me, anything over that gets my heat up. And my new den has poor air flow so i think short of going water over my cooler i wont get better temps so likley won't be going over 4Ghz for now..

But i do have 32Gig of ram running fine, going to add the last 16G if the modules i got every go on sale....

Corsair Vengeance LP 16GB DDR3 1866MHz Dual Channel Kit (2 x 8GB) , they didn't have 1600 when i went to buy it so grabbed the 1866 wasn't much more $$$

some pics

qnXO1X8.jpg


HQBgUIf.jpg


9Y2PNAT.jpg


hOX8cF9.jpg


P1topbB.jpg


I'll dig out my kill-a-watt and hook it up to the tower and see how i draw with my rig.

i do want 48Gigs as this is my usage right now with World of warships, bunch of tabs and 4 VM's running for testing..

8CqWqb7.jpg
 
Just jumped on the xeon bandwagon. Got a 5670 for 75, incl. shipping, last week. So far I've taken it to 4.3ghz, 24 cpu multi/180 Blck/1.4 on the cpu, reaching high 70s with h50. Gotta say these things run ice cold compared to my old 920.
 
and713 said:
Just jumped on the xeon bandwagon. Got a 5670 for 75, incl. shipping, last week. So far I've taken it to 4.3ghz, 24 cpu multi/180 Blck/1.4 on the cpu, reaching high 70s with h50. Gotta say these things run ice cold compared to my old 920.
Click to expand...

Nice! Surprised it stays that cool at those volts. Is that in games or Prime?
 
MrGuvernment, seeing you run 7 cas gives me a bit of encouragement to tweak my system a little further. I figured with having all the slots filled that I should keep it looser, but I'll what-if myself if I never try dropping it lower.
 
Haven't been in here in many months but still rockin my xeon, probably will for another year. Carry on 1366 x58 xeon brothers
 
Got my Xeon yesterday and gave it a whirl.
Man, getting that Noctua cooler back on was a PITA with my Corsair 540D. I didn't take the motherboard out and it was hard to hold the back bracket, crossmount, heatsink, and get a screw threaded. Well it was easy for the first two, but then the third was the hardest.

My first screw up was that I didn't update the BIOS on my P6T Deluxe. After getting it reassembled, I turned it on, and it wouldn't POST. Crap. Put the 920 back in and checked my BIOS version and saw that it was pretty old (relative to other BIOS releases because they're all 'old'). Booted to Windows, installed the Asus Updater, and got the latest BIOS.

Swapped the Xeon back in, powered up, and was in business. Played a couple of rounds in World of Warships to see if everything was stable and the temperatures were pretty cool.

Screwed around with overclocking and 4.4GHz seemed stable enough after Planetside 2 and World of Warships. Multi = 25, BCLK = 176, Core = 1.3V. Temps peaked at 60C.

4.6GHz did eventually crash but I didn't really push anything too hard at that point and temps were super reasonable. I could give it another go tonight.

As far as an overclocking procedure goes is there any peculiar about these?
What are the typical gotchas that will be your limit before anything else?

I set the Multi to 25, BCLK to whatever target I want, DDR was around 1600-1800 (My modules are apparently 2133 but I don't trust my motherboard to make it there), QPI was default at double DDR, VCore was 1.3, PLL maybe 1.7V.
4.8GHz didn't POST but I didn't really push any voltages.
 
The memory's been good for a while, but the issue where it only actually boots every other time persists. Any ideas what that could be? Not even sure where to start looking.
 
angrysasquatch said:
The memory's been good for a while, but the issue where it only actually boots every other time persists. Any ideas what that could be? Not even sure where to start looking.
Click to expand...

Are these on cold boots?
I know the Asus P6T has a cold boot problem and mine has done it about once a week since the beginning.
 
Cold boots or hot, doesn't matter. A restart from windows will fail. If I shut it down, go to work, come back and start, it won't go the first time. It's only been with the Xeon, even on this new BIOS the 920 behaved normally.
 
primetime said:
Try doing a long clear c mos sometime. Mine was acting up a couple years ago...tried everything...nothing worked...did a long clear c moss, re did all settings and was good to go ever since. Its like the bios rom gets a glitch is only way i can describe it
Click to expand...

So I reflashed 1202 rom, reset CMOS with battery out, stripped the computer to basics again, installed 7 and did all the updates, re-downloaded the 10 iso and burned a fresh dvd (fresh Verbatim 16x, not my old Taiyo Yuden 4x), did a 10 upgrade which activated.

I actually found a more detailed guide that said to NOT create a Win10 partition on systems with regular bios, so I made my ssd completely unallocated and installed onto that (apparently handles its own partition creation). STILL freezes at the same places. Thinking it may be Nvidia driver related (some people have reported issues), I tried installing again with my ethernet unplugged to avoid installing bad drivers, to no avail.

I've never had this problem before with a Windows install in 15 years. Is there something different with 10 that you know of? Any other guides that may help me? I'm on about my 20th install. Startup repair fails, "The operating system version is incompatible with Startup Repair."
 
RickyJ said:
So I reflashed 1202 rom, reset CMOS with battery out, stripped the computer to basics again, installed 7 and did all the updates, re-downloaded the 10 iso and burned a fresh dvd (fresh Verbatim 16x, not my old Taiyo Yuden 4x), did a 10 upgrade which activated.

I actually found a more detailed guide that said to NOT create a Win10 partition on systems with regular bios, so I made my ssd completely unallocated and installed onto that (apparently handles its own partition creation). STILL freezes at the same places. Thinking it may be Nvidia driver related (some people have reported issues), I tried installing again with my ethernet unplugged to avoid installing bad drivers, to no avail.

I've never had this problem before with a Windows install in 15 years. Is there something different with 10 that you know of? Any other guides that may help me? I'm on about my 20th install. Startup repair fails, "The operating system version is incompatible with Startup Repair."
Click to expand...

So your saying Windows 7 works fine no issues at all, and it only starts after trying to upgrade to windows 10? Did your ever get your pc successfully activated in all those trys of installing Windows 10? What im getting at i would like you to skip Windows 7 next time around and just install Windows 10. So lets try doing a clean install and see what happens. I have personally activated a couple of pc's using the different "other" methods and everything went fine on those as well. One of them even had your exact same motherboard with an Asus 960 strix.(which btw i just let windows update install the driver)
Also post all your bios setting. Maybe i will see a setting that should be changed.

edit: Also the more pictures the better...show us pics of where you got to before the trouble started. If its information we don't need, it doesn't hurt anything. Also you might consider installing the iso to usb flash drive, cause really it been years since some of us bothered with dvds:D
 
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tbob22 said:
Here you go:
http://imgur.com/a/G5Lss

I never could get the offset voltage to work right. The voltage would be correct in Windows but it would crash as soon as I put a load on it.
Also the 21 multiplier is not stable for whatever reason, even at 4ghz. So for me it was either 20x or 22x, and since this board has huge increments for the VTT voltage I went with the latter to keep the BCLK at more reasonable speeds.
Click to expand...

Dude, I owe you a beer or ten :)
http://i.imgur.com/ogjliQH.jpg

4,1GHz finally....
 
tbob22 said:
Nice!
The voltage seems little high, but I guess it doesn't matter as your temps are really good. :cool:
Click to expand...

Yeah, 1,35V didn't cut it... 1,37V has it stable though.
The temps are scary-good. I kept wondering if my sensors got screwed up. Checked it on three different pieces of software and the temps are consistent throughout so... yay :)
 
primetime said:
So your saying Windows 7 works fine no issues at all, and it only starts after trying to upgrade to windows 10? Did your ever get your pc successfully activated in all those trys of installing Windows 10? What im getting at i would like you to skip Windows 7 next time around and just install Windows 10. So lets try doing a clean install and see what happens. I have personally activated a couple of pc's using the different "other" methods and everything went fine on those as well. One of them even had your exact same motherboard with an Asus 960 strix.(which btw i just let windows update install the driver)
Also post all your bios setting. Maybe i will see a setting that should be changed.

edit: Also the more pictures the better...show us pics of where you got to before the trouble started. If its information we don't need, it doesn't hurt anything. Also you might consider installing the iso to usb flash drive, cause really it been years since some of us bothered with dvds:D
Click to expand...

Win7 works great on my computer, the only issues I had with my 4 year old install was the network diagnostic policy service shit the bed so I couldn't fix wifi connection issues I was having for a long time (wifi to shared internet not in my control; found a tool to reset my IP stack, no problems with connections after that, though the diagnostic service was still toast).

I can upgrade to 10 from 7 just fine, it activates no problem. I've only reinstalled 7 twice now, the first time to see if the hardware was preventing any Windows action, and the 2nd was to restart my activation code process (seemed like even after doing the upgrade the first time, re-activating 7 and then doing a clean install of 10 cleared out my activation code on MS servers). I've been doing straight clean installs of 10 other than the two upgrades, since I can never get far enough (other than the one time, where it wouldn't activate) to get close to a login screen.

I only switched to dvd because an IT friend of mine said he had heard of install issues from usb, and installing from dvd did seem to get me a bit further along in the install process. I've re-tried usb install since then too.

I'll take pics when I get some time to muck about with it again (hopefully tonight), and post pics of my bios settings. Thanks for the help! :)
 
Alright, so I have a Gigabyte GA-EX58-UD5 (yes, rev1) motherboard, F13 bios. The old build had an i7 920 C0 in it, clocked at 3.66GHz with 183 BCLK, 1464MHz memory. The i7 took 1.25v with vdroop enabled, with turbo enabled, but all power saving features enabled. I received a new memory kit before the new CPU, and switched to some Crucial Tactical LP 1.35v modules. It was basically just plug and play, just enabled Profile1 and made sure it was 8-8-8-24-2T, and set voltage to auto and ran MemTestx86+ for 9 hours, no problems. Prime95 for another day on balanced and everything pretty much seemed nominal. Same old system. I always felt the limiting factor on that machine was the memory controller, it felt like I got a bunk processor from the get go as an early adopter. I was never able to run true 1600MHz memory at their rated timings (started with G.Skill, went with Corsair XMS, same problem) even stock in anything but single channel. I figured maybe I could get a little extra out of the processor with 3x 8GB DIMMs instead of 6x 2GB DIMM. Nothing budged, I think I pretty much found the dial-in maximum of that 920 within temperature tolerances -- 74c load with Prime95 balanced.

After receiving my X5675, I popped it in the board, set the CMOS back to "Safe defaults", and started to tinker with the settings. MemTestx86+ had a strange delay after selecting SMP, but after 10 hours of mashing the RAM at their stock timings in test #8, and the processor all on "auto" basically, I was satisfied the processor and RAM were fine. After a lot of messing around, I cannot get this CPU past 3.8GHz on 200 BCLK. Dropping back down to my 183 BCLK, which I know is stable on this particular board the max is still the same, 3.8~GHz. My temperatures at 1.35v are 83c on Prime95 balanced at 3.8GHz, and I feel like that is way too high. In case you are wondering, Corsair H50 for cooling and Noctua NT-H1 TIM.

3.8GHz "presumably stable" (but hot) is:
183MHz BCLK, 21 multiplier
turbo disabled
QPI speed is what you'd expect (memory * 2)
VCORE 1.35v
QPI/VTT: 1.15v
CPU PLL: 1.80v
IOH -- all stock
ICH -- all stock

The TIM is properly applied, as I had some doubts compared to the original Shin Etsu or whatever that was on it, yanked it all apart and the tiny lifted peaks pattern looked like it was making full contact, cleaned it off, and re-applied the same way. I also tried the Clear CMOS button, and manually set all of the options back up, thinking there might be a stray table entry somewhere, but still no joy or change.

And yes, I've read almost all of this thread, and used various suggestions where people were saying "use this for an easy 4.2GHz", and some of the combinations didn't even make it into Windows. Aside from throwing more money at it with better cooling (which I am dubious about, since it would only be 2-3c difference at best with current budget AIO based on reviews), or disabling HyperThreading, do you guys have any suggestions for settings for this board specifically?
 
Farkle said:
Alright, so I have a Gigabyte GA-EX58-UD5 (yes, rev1) motherboard, F13 bios. The old build had an i7 920 C0 in it, clocked at 3.66GHz with 183 BCLK, 1464MHz memory. The i7 took 1.25v with vdroop enabled, with turbo enabled, but all power saving features enabled. I received a new memory kit before the new CPU, and switched to some Crucial Tactical LP 1.35v modules. It was basically just plug and play, just enabled Profile1 and made sure it was 8-8-8-24-2T, and set voltage to auto and ran MemTestx86+ for 9 hours, no problems. Prime95 for another day on balanced and everything pretty much seemed nominal. Same old system. I always felt the limiting factor on that machine was the memory controller, it felt like I got a bunk processor from the get go as an early adopter. I was never able to run true 1600MHz memory at their rated timings (started with G.Skill, went with Corsair XMS, same problem) even stock in anything but single channel. I figured maybe I could get a little extra out of the processor with 3x 8GB DIMMs instead of 6x 2GB DIMM. Nothing budged, I think I pretty much found the dial-in maximum of that 920 within temperature tolerances -- 74c load with Prime95 balanced.

After receiving my X5675, I popped it in the board, set the CMOS back to "Safe defaults", and started to tinker with the settings. MemTestx86+ had a strange delay after selecting SMP, but after 10 hours of mashing the RAM at their stock timings in test #8, and the processor all on "auto" basically, I was satisfied the processor and RAM were fine. After a lot of messing around, I cannot get this CPU past 3.8GHz on 200 BCLK. Dropping back down to my 183 BCLK, which I know is stable on this particular board the max is still the same, 3.8~GHz. My temperatures at 1.35v are 83c on Prime95 balanced at 3.8GHz, and I feel like that is way too high. In case you are wondering, Corsair H50 for cooling and Noctua NT-H1 TIM.

3.8GHz "presumably stable" (but hot) is:
183MHz BCLK, 21 multiplier
turbo disabled
QPI speed is what you'd expect (memory * 2)
VCORE 1.35v
QPI/VTT: 1.15v
CPU PLL: 1.80v
IOH -- all stock
ICH -- all stock

The TIM is properly applied, as I had some doubts compared to the original Shin Etsu or whatever that was on it, yanked it all apart and the tiny lifted peaks pattern looked like it was making full contact, cleaned it off, and re-applied the same way. I also tried the Clear CMOS button, and manually set all of the options back up, thinking there might be a stray table entry somewhere, but still no joy or change.

And yes, I've read almost all of this thread, and used various suggestions where people were saying "use this for an easy 4.2GHz", and some of the combinations didn't even make it into Windows. Aside from throwing more money at it with better cooling (which I am dubious about, since it would only be 2-3c difference at best with current budget AIO based on reviews), or disabling HyperThreading, do you guys have any suggestions for settings for this board specifically?
Click to expand...

Why are you using a x21 mult on an x5675? It goes up to x23 (without turbo)

And yeah your temps are really high for 3.8GHz. I'm running an x5675 @ 3.9GHz 1.35v and I'm a full 20C cooler than yours under load. I am using an equivalent cooler to yours.

What are your ambient and idle temps? I'm willing to bet there is a case airflow problem here and that hot air is just accumulating inside your case. I say this because your temperatured with the 920 under load are also very high. Under load I never got to 74C on my 920. Now on the x5675, I miiight get to 74, but I'd really have to be running Prime for a good while.
 
not sure how you missed the point of using the highest multi possible for cpu in question..as shamless already mentioned....the temps are a little high but not really terrible..cpu should not really be a problem at that temp anyway for max. Anyways let us know how it does using turbo and or max multi
 
primetime said:
not sure how you missed the point of using the highest multi possible for cpu in question..as shamless already mentioned....the temps are a little high but not really terrible..cpu should not really be a problem at that temp anyway for max. Anyways let us know how it does using turbo and or max multi
Click to expand...

Because 25x forced turbo with 1.35v yields this:

PAej5nV.png


21x runs cooler, for whatever reason, even when equal voltage is applied. Core #5 always seems to be the hottest, under any load. 4.2GHz isn't stable at 21x, but it runs cooler than 4GHz at 25x. 23x won't even hit BCLK 165 stable at any voltage I tried. It causes Prime95 actually crash when I start a test (the application itself.)

edit: CoreTemp is wrong about the CPU model, attached this to prevent confusion:
vMpxm9A.png


Shameless Liar said:
Why are you using a x21 mult on an x5675? It goes up to x23 (without turbo)

And yeah your temps are really high for 3.8GHz. I'm running an x5675 @ 3.9GHz 1.35v and I'm a full 20C cooler than yours under load. I am using an equivalent cooler to yours.

What are your ambient and idle temps? I'm willing to bet there is a case airflow problem here and that hot air is just accumulating inside your case. I say this because your temperatured with the 920 under load are also very high. Under load I never got to 74C on my 920. Now on the x5675, I miiight get to 74, but I'd really have to be running Prime for a good while.
Click to expand...

Sounds like you had a D0 i7 920, instead of a C0 like me. I went through three C0 i7's just to hit 3.66GHz stable, when there were forum reports of people hitting 4GHz. I eventually just shrugged it off as bad luck, or people's machines really weren't as stable as they claimed. My case airflow is fine, my ambient room temperatures are 73-75f, and my case temperature is 32-38c depending on what it is doing (38c is under FurMark load.) Idle temps are around 44c. It's all in a SilverStone Raven RV02, with the stock bottom intake fans on high, the power supply acting as a secondary vent (rather than pulling cool air into the PSU itself from the rear), the Corsair H50 in push/pull with Scythe Gentle Typhoon fans. The only cables in the way of airflow are the two 6-pin molex connected to the video card. As far as running Prime95 for a good while -- I always verify my overclocks with 24 hours of Balanced before I move onto Linpack for the final analysis of stability. I wouldn't trust a processor that can't run at maximum tolerances 24/7.

I've tried CPU Clock Drive and PCI Express Clock Drive set to 700, and 900 (the old 920 was at 900) and it hasn't made any difference. I don't have an oscilloscope to figure out the skew either, if that is somehow problematic (set to 0 currently.)
 
Farkle said:
Because 25x forced turbo with 1.35v yields this:
PAej5nV.png
Click to expand...

This happens because turbo is kicking in with a BCLK that is not stable.

There is a lot of misinformation about optimal 1366 OCing. These processors offer better performance when all C states are enabled on the BIOS. i run both my X5675s on the SR2 with 15x multi set on the BIOS, but they reach all the way to 25x when demanded.

I suggest you to start again:

- set multi to the lowest you can
- set BCLK to 133
- enabled each and all C states in BIOS
-put your memory on the slowest stable setting
-use a program capable of monitoring multiple core frequencies in real time
- observe how the frequencies behave under stress and if it is happening any thermal throttle
-start increasing the BCLK and testing if turbo keeps kicking in without instability. I can set my BCLK to 170 on both processors, so they run at 15x170 normally, but jump to 25x170 under stress: energy savings at idle, maximum performance when needed.
 
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geok1ng said:
This happens because turbo is kicking in with a BCLK that is not stable.

There is a lot of misinformation about optimal 1366 OCing. These processors offer better performance when all C states are enabled on the BIOS. i run both my X5675s on the SR2 with 15x multi set on the BIOS, but they reach all the way to 25x when demanded.

I suggest you to start again:

- set multi to the lowest you can
- set BCLK to 133
- enabled each and all C states in BIOS
-put your memory on the slowest stable setting
-use a program capable of monitoring multiple core frequencies in real time
- observe how the frequencies behave under stress and if it is happening any thermal throttle
-start increasing the BCLK and testing if turbo keeps kicking in without instability. I can set my BCLK to 170 on both processors, so they run at 15x170 normally, but jump to 25x170 under stress: energy savings at idle, maximum performance when needed.
Click to expand...

It's not kicking in, he said forced turbo... so it's always on.
 
Farkle said:
Because 25x forced turbo with 1.35v yields this:

PAej5nV.png


21x runs cooler, for whatever reason, even when equal voltage is applied. Core #5 always seems to be the hottest, under any load. 4.2GHz isn't stable at 21x, but it runs cooler than 4GHz at 25x. 23x won't even hit BCLK 165 stable at any voltage I tried. It causes Prime95 actually crash when I start a test (the application itself.)

edit: CoreTemp is wrong about the CPU model, attached this to prevent confusion:
vMpxm9A.png




Sounds like you had a D0 i7 920, instead of a C0 like me. I went through three C0 i7's just to hit 3.66GHz stable, when there were forum reports of people hitting 4GHz. I eventually just shrugged it off as bad luck, or people's machines really weren't as stable as they claimed. My case airflow is fine, my ambient room temperatures are 73-75f, and my case temperature is 32-38c depending on what it is doing (38c is under FurMark load.) Idle temps are around 44c. It's all in a SilverStone Raven RV02, with the stock bottom intake fans on high, the power supply acting as a secondary vent (rather than pulling cool air into the PSU itself from the rear), the Corsair H50 in push/pull with Scythe Gentle Typhoon fans. The only cables in the way of airflow are the two 6-pin molex connected to the video card. As far as running Prime95 for a good while -- I always verify my overclocks with 24 hours of Balanced before I move onto Linpack for the final analysis of stability. I wouldn't trust a processor that can't run at maximum tolerances 24/7.

I've tried CPU Clock Drive and PCI Express Clock Drive set to 700, and 900 (the old 920 was at 900) and it hasn't made any difference. I don't have an oscilloscope to figure out the skew either, if that is somehow problematic (set to 0 currently.)
Click to expand...


i take back what i said regarding your temps.....on a very old air cooler mine would rarely if ever break 80C....either your house is super hot inside or you have bad issues with your case air flow and or bad water cooling going on. There is absolutely no reason to use a lower multi because of bad temps.....unless your doing something wrong
 
RickyJ said:
Win7 works great on my computer, the only issues I had with my 4 year old install was the network diagnostic policy service shit the bed so I couldn't fix wifi connection issues I was having for a long time (wifi to shared internet not in my control; found a tool to reset my IP stack, no problems with connections after that, though the diagnostic service was still toast).

I can upgrade to 10 from 7 just fine, it activates no problem. I've only reinstalled 7 twice now, the first time to see if the hardware was preventing any Windows action, and the 2nd was to restart my activation code process (seemed like even after doing the upgrade the first time, re-activating 7 and then doing a clean install of 10 cleared out my activation code on MS servers). I've been doing straight clean installs of 10 other than the two upgrades, since I can never get far enough (other than the one time, where it wouldn't activate) to get close to a login screen.

I only switched to dvd because an IT friend of mine said he had heard of install issues from usb, and installing from dvd did seem to get me a bit further along in the install process. I've re-tried usb install since then too.

I'll take pics when I get some time to muck about with it again (hopefully tonight), and post pics of my bios settings. Thanks for the help! :)
Click to expand...

What a week, haven't had a chance to do this until just now.
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Except for a few things, it's mostly on Auto.
 
I'd disable Turbo mode, Speedstep and C1 support if you're clocking over 4ghz on the 2.13ghz Xeon chip.
 
Farkle's log:

I guess I've just got the most bunk x5675 ever reported. Picked up a refurbished H100i from Fry's, rearranged my case to accommodate it, and I'm seeing 78c maximum temperatures, with an open case in 65f room temperature (63f outside, left the windows open all night.) I did finally dial it in presumably stable at 4GHz, but it doesn't seem to want to do any further than that. Only verified for 6 hours (I'll go ahead and run for 24, after this) of Prime95 balanced, and ten passes of Asus RealBench. At this point, I am suspecting the lid attachment of the processor is at fault. No wonder the Buy It Now on eBay was lower than anyone else.

Settings for this GA-EX58-UD5 / CPU:
BCLK 160
25x multiplier (turbo "Enabled")
XMP Profile2 for 1600, 8-8-8-24 (1.5v profile, since 1.35v was giving me grief)
Uncore 19x 3040MHz (CPU-Z reports 2880MHz, system fails to boot at x20/3200MHz)
Performance enhance Turbo
CPU Clock Drive 800mV
PCI-E Clock Drive 900mV
CPU Skew 50ps
IOH Skew 50ps
Core voltage 1.31250v
QPI 1.235v
PLL 1.800v
Everything else MCH/ICH: Normal
DRAM: Auto
Isochronous Support Disabled

I tested the CPU/IOH skew with a stop watch, for DMI times, total Windows boot time, and perceived input lag during Windows 10 startup with the mouse. I also noted that at 200 and 300, the "Green LAN" enabled in the BIOS, would permanently disable the ethernet controller in Windows, as if nothing was plugged in. 0 and 50 function, 50 was faster for DMI times 15/15 boot tests. IOH set to 0 or 50 made no difference, but I've read to keep them both set to the same value. Not exactly scientific like an oscilloscope or a logic analyzer but it's good enough for now. Optimized defaults set the CPU/PCI-E skews to 900/900, fail-safe defaults sets it to 700/700. Upon Googling, most new revisions (UD3p/UD5p/EX58A-UD5) of this board were 800/900, so that is what I set and it seems to behave. Only bummer is, even with C-states enabled, with forced turbo, it is always running at maximum clock. Wheee, electricity bill.
 
ok heres my bios settings that work great for me. It also works great on mine friends v2 board.
(only listing things you have different)
ai overclock...xmp profile 1
cpu ratio...22
blck...191
speedstep...disable
turbo...disable
dram...man set to dram speed (in my case 1591)
qpi...6893

cpu voltage...1.35
pll voltage...1.9
qpi voltage...1.35
dram voltage...man set to ram spec (in my case 1.66)
load line calb...enable
pci spread spec...disable
cpu spread spec...disable
c-state tech...enable (c1 and c3 enable as well)
plug an play os...yes

acpi 2.0...enable

Now are all my settings needed? probably not but my pc is near perfect so i have no incentive to change them...for the time being;) My advise at least be open minded enough to try them, and if they don't help, then i don't think your issue is bios settings related. ( at least you could cross that part off the check list)

Edit: oh should have mentioned, this was for ricky to try...not sure about others yet
 
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Farkle said:
Farkle's log:

I guess I've just got the most bunk x5675 ever reported. Picked up a refurbished H100i from Fry's, rearranged my case to accommodate it, and I'm seeing 78c maximum temperatures, with an open case in 65f room temperature (63f outside, left the windows open all night.) I did finally dial it in presumably stable at 4GHz, but it doesn't seem to want to do any further than that. Only verified for 6 hours (I'll go ahead and run for 24, after this) of Prime95 balanced, and ten passes of Asus RealBench. At this point, I am suspecting the lid attachment of the processor is at fault. No wonder the Buy It Now on eBay was lower than anyone else.

Settings for this GA-EX58-UD5 / CPU:
BCLK 160
25x multiplier (turbo "Enabled")
XMP Profile2 for 1600, 8-8-8-24 (1.5v profile, since 1.35v was giving me grief)
Uncore 19x 3040MHz (CPU-Z reports 2880MHz, system fails to boot at x20/3200MHz)
Performance enhance Turbo
CPU Clock Drive 800mV
PCI-E Clock Drive 900mV
CPU Skew 50ps
IOH Skew 50ps
Core voltage 1.31250v
QPI 1.235v
PLL 1.800v
Everything else MCH/ICH: Normal
DRAM: Auto
Isochronous Support Disabled

I tested the CPU/IOH skew with a stop watch, for DMI times, total Windows boot time, and perceived input lag during Windows 10 startup with the mouse. I also noted that at 200 and 300, the "Green LAN" enabled in the BIOS, would permanently disable the ethernet controller in Windows, as if nothing was plugged in. 0 and 50 function, 50 was faster for DMI times 15/15 boot tests. IOH set to 0 or 50 made no difference, but I've read to keep them both set to the same value. Not exactly scientific like an oscilloscope or a logic analyzer but it's good enough for now. Optimized defaults set the CPU/PCI-E skews to 900/900, fail-safe defaults sets it to 700/700. Upon Googling, most new revisions (UD3p/UD5p/EX58A-UD5) of this board were 800/900, so that is what I set and it seems to behave. Only bummer is, even with C-states enabled, with forced turbo, it is always running at maximum clock. Wheee, electricity bill.
Click to expand...

i think what going on with your board is for some reason its very tricky to set up the bios to work correctly with specifically xeon hexa cores.....its almost always someone who pops in here with a non asus board that struggles with getting the bios settings ironed out for there board. I don't think its your cpu being bunk, but more of a compatibility of your board and these xeon hexa cores. Some boards are very tuff to get ironed out with these.
What we need to find is someone with your board that got the bios settings already ironed out...because those of us without our board are just making guesses out of thin air. The hard part is usually the blck setting...lower is easier and higher is exponentially harder to get stable in almost every case. for example my board needs this goofy high pll voltage that almost know one else benefits from (but mine demands it lol)

Edit: Your super high temps need to be dealt with, and discover whats really going on. Its either 1. malfunctioning water cooler, 2 v-core voltage is much higher than what the board displays it to be (its possible), or 3 you have bad contact between the chips heat spreader and die. I would put all my effort into fixing those temps before doing anything else, cause you need those upper multis to have any success at overclocking
 
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primetime said:
ok heres my bios settings that work great for me. It also works great on mine friends v2 board.
(only listing things you have different)
ai overclock...xmp profile 1
cpu ratio...22
blck...191
speedstep...disable
turbo...disable
dram...man set to dram speed (in my case 1591)
qpi...6893

cpu voltage...1.35
pll voltage...1.9
qpi voltage...1.35
dram voltage...man set to ram spec (in my case 1.66)
load line calb...enable
pci spread spec...disable
cpu spread spec...disable
c-state tech...enable (c1 and c3 enable as well)
plug an play os...yes

acpi 2.0...enable

Now are all my settings needed? probably not but my pc is near perfect so i have no incentive to change them...for the time being;) My advise at least be open minded enough to try them, and if they don't help, then i don't think your issue is bios settings related. ( at least you could cross that part off the check list)

Edit: oh should have mentioned, this was for ricky to try...not sure about others yet
Click to expand...

Setting ACPI alone got me to desktop, but without a mouse. When I rebooted, it failed.

I've tried install from dvd with c-states enabled, PNP OS yes/no, all speed/voltage settings at stock and underclocked, etc.

Most recent install:
- I did an overkill cmos reset, battery pulled and jumper swapped overnight.
- ACPI 2.0 enabled
- PNP OS yes (even though it should be no)
- ddr3-1333
- uncore 2666
- qpi 4800MT/sec
- cpu 21x133
- voltages set to my normal 4.2 level, LLC on, spread spectrum disabled
cpu 1.35v
PLL 1.80v
qpi/dram 1.25v
ioh 1.10
ioh pcie 1.50
ich 1.10
ich pcie 1.50
dram bus 1.50
- C1E on, virtualization disabled, speedstep disabled, C-states enabled
- onboard devices disabled (lan, audio, 1394)
- Intel 1000CT lan card installed and hooked up to router
- installed from usb

After install screen and scheduled reboot:
- POST, then windows spinny dots for a few seconds, then frozen at blank screen (output still enabled, light on monitor is still active). Wait an hour, reboot, then:
Cn9us1S.png

*skipped key entry of course*
IvYZYzP.png

fp5Rrnv.png

SSLMw7q.png

Fszd2l3.png

gp2Yskx.png

Then a normal reboot...
1SBLwK1.png

And then it froze here:
sRx8FqU.png

Wait another hour, router lights flashing rapidly for first ~10 mins, then force reboot:
wR3qdLZ.png

Frozen here now:
Y0pF3Em.png
 
let me ask you this ricky? Is your system been confirmed bullet proof stable with intel burn test and prime 95 and what not with windows 7? just wondering really...i have heard in some cases people that were boarder line stable in windows 7 that all of a sudden had issues with 10. truthfully im starting to run low on ideas and hope one of the other intelligent posters in this thread have some good ideas.( i know there's a few of them;))just for shits and giggles you could try the newest build here http://microsoft-news.com/download-windows-10-build-10532-iso/. its just what get me is my board is problem free and my friends v2 has no issues with 10 either....and really i did nothing special on either of ours to install 10......hard to figure why yours is troubling.

maybe tbob22 has an idea?
 
Yeah this has been bugging me for way too long. It's been a while since I've had to run IBT or P95, but it passed with flying colours at 4.2 last summer. Other than the network diag service shitting the bed a couple years ago, it's been squeaky clean under 7 (just getting slow with ~4 year old install). And upgrade works perfectly fine from 7, activates and boots no problem. Just the clean install is shit on my machine.

I'll try making a new flash drive with that iso, but this laptop is 32bit so I have to do some command line stuff to make it 64bit bootable. I'm not sure what build my current dvd/flash is.

edit: That build link is for a preview version, and apparently it's a junky spam site?
 
Yeah that's how I got the iso for my "good" dvd. At my parents place now, downloading it again to put onto yet another fresh flash drive (easier than messing with 32bit os on laptop for 64bit iso).

I got fed up and put 7 back on last night, not activated. When I first started this fiasco, I saw someone else talk about the same symptoms on an ssd, but it worked when they installed to a spinny hdd. So tonight I'm going to dust off one of my sketchy Seagate's and see if it'll go. What have I got to lose? Maybe my M4 is just being a dick, their firmware tool wouldn't even let me overwrite the firmware with the same one when I tried last week.
 
So I cleared off a working Seagate 7200.11 that I had in storage, and Win10 installed the same way as on my ssd. On first reboot, it does the Windows spinning loading screen, then drops to blank screen like before. Force reboot and it stops at the same place. So I don't think it's my ssd at this point.
 
MGS V: The Phantom Pain has some pretty good multi-threading. This is at 2560x1600 max settings. Not sure what's going on with the clocks...

JQB9tXA.png
 
RickyJ said:
So I cleared off a working Seagate 7200.11 that I had in storage, and Win10 installed the same way as on my ssd. On first reboot, it does the Windows spinning loading screen, then drops to blank screen like before. Force reboot and it stops at the same place. So I don't think it's my ssd at this point.
Click to expand...

That is really strange. Maybe try a different GPU? Look over your bios settings? AHCI should probably be enabled. I can take some photos of my bios settings tomorrow if that would help.
 
Did the same thing with a 9400GT. AHCI always enabled. ACPI 2.0 now enabled.

With the same 4.2 21x200 speed/voltage settings that I've been running for a year, I wasn't able to boot into 7 tonight. The cmos even reset itself to default the first time I tried putting it back to 4.2. It also didn't like 20x200, but is now running prime95 blend at 20x180. The frustration continues...

If you could take pics of your settings it'd be a big help. I've been contemplating putting my failing 920 back in, and/or ripping the mobo out and checking it over. Might need to also check out my 5-6 year old Corsair 1000w psu, it's just a process to desolder all caps to test them.
 
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