1366 x58 Xeon Enthusiast overclocks club

primetime

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looks great so far.....this may be the final outcome.....but all the same im happy;)
Capture_zpse8cce05a.jpg
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Ill do hyper pi next:)
 

primetime

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anyone else notice that it actually posted higher Gigaflops in the Intel burn test 2.54 numbers while being clocked 200mhz lower? sounds good to me lol?

Capture_zpsbf6bb551.jpg
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wonder how these results compare to brand new amd/intel chips? please post some screenshots if using the newer hardware;)
 

primetime

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Don't worry about seeing the CPU usage. If you properly disable the hyperthreaded cores, you should sit right @ 50% usage..The important thing is that you watch the GFlops output in IBT..They should be higher then they were in your screenshot above..

It appears that you only have 3 cores active..Notice that 2 of them are running @ 100%, and the third is loaded heavily as well..You may need to play around with which cores to turn off since a Xeon is different then the native 4 core dies with HT..with those, you just do like Axarie said and turn off the odd number cores..

In your case, based on your screenshot from before, it appears that cores 0,1,2 and 8,9,10 are the physical cores in your CPU..Try locking IBT to those cores, and monitor the GFlop output..it should be higher then those results in your first screenshot.

It seems like you are stable, if you can pass everything you have and been able to game without issues as well. The issue where the system was doing a hard power off when loaded is most likely due to the Vcore being too low..

I had that issue when fine tuning my 3770K on my MSI Z77 MPower..Everything would be stable for hours and hours, and then I would get a random hard reboot. I had to boost my Vcore and then give my IMC a tiny bit of juice as well.

well i found an easy way to determine the real core numbers...

Capture_zps4b689cdb.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

HWMonitorPro clearly states the actual cores (0,1,2,8,9,10)......im running the test tonight and well see if your idea is really true or not....my guess it will score lower since its at 50% usage now...but we shall see...i owe you a 6 pack if your correct;)

hate to say it,,,but you theory was wrong....it just pushed it at half power as seen here
Capture2_zpsa2734a82.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

guess that way of stressing cpus dont work the same way on xeons:(......I'l give you one thing though...i sure went thru the test a lot faster
 
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primetime

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Primetime how in the hell are your temps so low? according to my temp monitor my X5670 idles at 31C load as high as 85C and I have a pretty hardcore watercooling setup, what gives?

I'm starting to think that maybe the method I use to apply thermal paste is not ideal, I'm going to have another crack at it, any tips from your obviously superior method?

this is how i managed such low temps......i cheat lol and i use very good thermal grease applied correctly
IMG_20140605_034722_5181_zps0b2ca4ef.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

only when stess testing ....gaming doesn't even beak a swest.....the avg temp in my oom is about 80 degrees
 
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CrimsonKnight13

Lord Stabington of [H]ard|Fortress
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What are your current settings? and what is the max multiplier?

I wrote down all of the major settings that I could think of. Let me know if I should get anymore of them.

Max Multiplier - 18x
CPU Ratio Setting - 18
BCLK - 200
PCIE - 100
DRAM - DDR3-1603
UCLK - 3208
CPU Voltage - 1.325
QPI\DRAM Core Voltage - 1.35
DRAM Bus Voltage - Auto (1.65)
 

unclewebb

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well i found an easy way to determine the real core numbers...

In the RealTemp download is another program called RealTemp GT. That is the program you should be using when you have a 6 core CPU.

The bios assigns threads to cores each time you boot up. Look in the RealTemp - Settings window at the bottom right and it should show you a number called APIC ID which shows how the bios assigned things. Most newer motherboards assign things in a logical order but some older motherboards assigned things quite randomly. Post a screen shot of what RealTemp reports for the APIC ID.

RealTemp is one of the few monitoring programs that uses APIC ID information so it reports temperature data from the appropriate physical core. Some programs cheat by assuming that the APIC ID is in sequential order so they can end up reporting temperature data from two threads on the same core and try to tell you that the data is coming from 2 different cores when it is not.

Another trick you can use is you can run a program like Prime 95 and then use the Task Manager to limit it to a single thread of your CPU. As you move Prime 95 to different threads in your CPU and watch the RealTemp GT data, you should be able to figure out what threads are assigned to what physical cores.
 

Deimos

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I wrote down all of the major settings that I could think of. Let me know if I should get anymore of them.

Max Multiplier - 18x
CPU Ratio Setting - 18
BCLK - 200
PCIE - 100
DRAM - DDR3-1603
UCLK - 3208
CPU Voltage - 1.325
QPI\DRAM Core Voltage - 1.35
DRAM Bus Voltage - Auto (1.65)

You could push the BCLK higher but I've never had much luck running anything over 200 even without overclocking at all.

Drop your memory, and UCLK as low as you can and drop your multiplier to around 10-12, then push your BCLK as high as you can, find the highest stable BCLK, then start increasing the multiplier.

Good luck
 

CrimsonKnight13

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You could push the BCLK higher but I've never had much luck running anything over 200 even without overclocking at all.

Drop your memory, and UCLK as low as you can and drop your multiplier to around 10-12, then push your BCLK as high as you can, find the highest stable BCLK, then start increasing the multiplier.

Good luck

Thanks. This will probably get interesting... :eek:
 

primetime

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Capture6may_zps26e2eaa1.jpg
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i think shes stable as they get......but im going to try LinX tonight just to be sure sense I have never tried it and its has newer updates

Capture_zps7a7d449b.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
 

primetime

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Thanks. This will probably get interesting... :eek:

your Asus rampage will do 200blck without even breaking a sweat( and i wouldnt be surprised if it did 220blck as well)......i actually wish i had one....even though mine is almost as good lol
 

CrimsonKnight13

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your Asus rampage will do 200blck without even breaking a sweat( and i wouldnt be surprised if it did 220blck as well)......i actually wish i had one....even though mine is almost as good lol

Yeah, that's what I'm at right now. I'm taking the other OC route in order to see how far I can push it.
 

LigTasm

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Guess I'll post up in here as well, I just got rid of my Haswell setup in favor of grabbing a hex xeon for the X58 rig I picked up on craigslist for $70. Total cost after selling the i7-930 that was in there originally will be around $120. The motherboard is a Gigabyte X58A-UD3R, which ironically brings me full circle to around 2009(?) when I bought the same board brand new with an i7-980X when it first hit retail shelves. Just shows the staying power of this platform.

I picked up an X5650 and currently have it at 20x200 for 4000mhz. Works great, although I really need to sit down and take the time to set the voltage correctly, I just set it to 1.300V and then bumped the QPI/VTT a little and off I went.




The ram overclocking was a bust, my sound card suddenly didn't like it after I swapped out the PSU for the Seasonic, back to 22x200 :(

It was hard locking my PC, couldn't even boot in to windows but as soon as I took out the sound card it was fine again.

If it is a SoundBlaster, the card is BAD. I can't tell you how many of their older cards I had start doing this. No matter what rig you put it in eventually it will be the same and then stop working completely. I would recommend one of the Asus Xonar cards or something, every single SoundBlaster I have had has died in short order. I recently went through five of the SBZ cards. I had a graveyard for the stupid things in my closet, a whole pile of X-Fi HD's and Titaniums.
 

MN Scout

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I'm still at the settings from my previous post in the Hot Deals thread. I haven't noticed any problems that I would associate to the processor. My Total Media Theatre blu-ray software has had problems with the Walter Mitty movie (stops every 20 some minutes), and the Dumb and Dumber blu-ray where it crashed. Other blu-rays have played fine, so I think it is a problem with the software.

I should try for a higher speed, but I don't have time right now (my memory is maxed, so I'd have to relax the ratio which may effect the performance). I also am fearful of corrupting my Windows install or hard drives.

I'm up in Windows with a BCLK of 180 for 3.96GHz with the x5670. Turbo Off, Speedstepping on, C-states on. Vcore:1.28, QPI: 1.26, Vdimm:1.5

Using UBCD, I ran a handful of stress tests for 12 hours before ever booting into Windows. Still crashed the first time in Windows; at which point I turned Turbo Off.

Currently running IntelBurnTest, I'm seeing max temps of 71C in Real Temp GT. Need to check in on my ram timings - CPU-Z reports 9,10,10,25 for 667MHZ and I'm currently running 9,9,9,24. I may want to relax them... the motherboard wanted to run 8,9,9,24 Edit: The newest CPU-Z shows 9,9,9,24, so I'll just leave it where it is at for now.

Just loading up a few programs, and the browser, I can already tell it is faster. I think this was a good decision to get this processor. Should hold me out till the next reinstall of Windows at which point I'll put in an SSD and it'll really feel like a new computer.

Thanks for the OC suggestions and support.

Edit: My Adobe Premiere CC encodes take 1/2 the time. Lightroom is really snappy now. This is great!
 

primetime

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Sorted. Looks like I put too much AS5 on there, I was using the "mound" method.

Switch to some generic looking prolimatech compound I had lying around and switched back to the "thin spread" method and my temps dropped by 15C :eek:

Further tweaking might be warranted, I'm not sure the water block is applying good pressure on the socket and my application of the compound was hasty, I'll have another fiddle later on tonight and see what happens.

I can definitely see room for improvement, just noticed that half my cores have now gone 5C higher than before I changed the compound.

yea....i always spread the thinnest even layer on both surfaces....its meant to fill in microscopic cracks not act as a LAYER between cooler and cpu....even i probably still use a bit to much...but im getting good results:D
 

primetime

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I'm still at the settings from my previous post in the Hot Deals thread. I haven't noticed any problems that I would associate to the processor. My Total Media Theatre blu-ray software has had problems with the Walter Mitty movie (stops every 20 some minutes), and the Dumb and Dumber blu-ray where it crashed. Other blu-rays have played fine, so I think it is a problem with the software.

I should try for a higher speed, but I don't have time right now (my memory is maxed, so I'd have to relax the ratio which may effect the performance). I also am fearful of corrupting my Windows install or hard drives.

i disagree.....if your seeing issues with anything.....it points to instability in your overclock....its far to easy just to pass it off as software issues....i use a combination method of checking for stability

1. Intel burn test 2.54 (max settings for 20 passes)
2. LinX 0.65 with newest updates for about 20 passes
3. hyperpi.....run it several times and make sure it passes

i have learned to the hard way that just because it passes Intel burn test a few times its 100% stable....maybe not true

If your worried about windows corruption learn to make image backups...when all is good.....an unstable overclock will corrupt your install in time...little weird issues here and there....don't write them off as just bad software...your more than likely just bullshitting yourself...it took me a long time to learn what voltages i needed here and there in my bios....but it makes a world of difference when you finally set it right....sorry to say but it takes a shit load of trial and error to get it right

and lastly it takes what 10 minutes to install win 8.1 from usb to ssd these days....but it can suck to re install the software you uses.....which is exactly why i use the built in image back up...every month or so (just don't back it up when its corrupted lol) and youl be good
 
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schizrade

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You guys are making me want to push my L5639 to 4.0 and leave it there. I think I had it at 4.x but backed it down.
 

primetime

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You guys are making me want to push my L5639 to 4.0 and leave it there. I think I had it at 4.x but backed it down.

fuck it.....push it for all she got......unless your 15 living with mom and dad.....80 bucks is a drop in the pool compared to monthly bills....this is HARDOCP....push that puppy to the limit......we all have spent more going out....have we not?
 

schizrade

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fuck it.....push it for all she got......unless your 15 living with mom and dad.....80 bucks is a drop in the pool compared to monthly bills....this is HARDOCP....push that puppy to the limit......we all have spent more going out....have we not?

lol

ok then. Comes down to tinker time vs. gaming time. Do I feel like fiddling around for a few hours with this, or hunker down with Civ V... I don't have tons of time for it.
 

Modboxx

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24x7 settings


Max out at this or even 22*200 but the water cooling can't handle that type of heat. If only if i had my old water cooling rig instead of this corsair.
 
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schizrade

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Also, I just got a 16x ribbon cable to allow my second 280x to run on the second 16x slot. Runs very fast now. The 4x at the bottom of the board made shit jerky as hell, but the 16x slots are too close together for the vapor-x coolers. Had to ghetto rig it, lol.
 

Deimos

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I'm curious about RAM, my board supposedly supports up to 24GB and a ram speed of 2000, I currently have 12GB @ 1600 (all slots filled).

Has anyone gotten a whole lot of modern ram rated above 2000 on an X58? I'm tempted to get some for a punt but would like to hear if anyone else has tried this much + overclocking.
 

Deimos

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If it is a SoundBlaster, the card is BAD. I can't tell you how many of their older cards I had start doing this. No matter what rig you put it in eventually it will be the same and then stop working completely. I would recommend one of the Asus Xonar cards or something, every single SoundBlaster I have had has died in short order. I recently went through five of the SBZ cards. I had a graveyard for the stupid things in my closet, a whole pile of X-Fi HD's and Titaniums.

Well shit, I replaced it with a Soundblaster Zx which seems fine. Also, I have another Titanium which I swapped out for the one in my system but it was the same problem, both those cards work fine in my HTPC though.
 

schizrade

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I'm curious about RAM, my board supposedly supports up to 24GB and a ram speed of 2000, I currently have 12GB @ 1600 (all slots filled).

Has anyone gotten a whole lot of modern ram rated above 2000 on an X58? I'm tempted to get some for a punt but would like to hear if anyone else has tried this much + overclocking.

I have never been super successful at OC'ing RAM for any real effects on x58. It paid big gains on the Core2Quad chips and prior, but it doesn't seem to do much besides allow for higher bclk overhead. I just get whatever and run it.
 

Deimos

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I have never been super successful at OC'ing RAM for any real effects on x58. It paid big gains on the Core2Quad chips and prior, but it doesn't seem to do much besides allow for higher bclk overhead. I just get whatever and run it.

I'm more concerned about it limiting my BCLK by installing 24GB, what are you running yours at?
 

primetime

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I'm more concerned about it limiting my BCLK by installing 24GB, what are you running yours at?

i also have good results with 200 blck...and since my memory is ddr3 1600mhz it works out good...anything over 200blck is not always possible
 

Deimos

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Anyone got any recommendations for a 1366 based server board? I actually have a spare quad core xeon kicking around that I wouldn't mind using for a mail server. My current mail server is a Core 2 quad with 8 GBs of ram and its starting to feel really slow...
Ideally need something that can handle a shit load of ram, my other xeon server has an excessive number of memory slots (12 per CPU), that way I can chuck my 12GB of G.Skill in there and have a reason to get 24GB for my X5670.
 

Skyscraper

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The local forums in Sweden are more or less dead so I thought it was time to register here.

For the last three and a half years I have been running Xeon X5650 + X5670 @ 20*200 bclk on an EVGA SR-2. The build has been solid and I have had no reason to upgrade but now I felt the itch to tinker. The new platforms dosnt look any fun so I bought another X5650 for the SR-2 and put my X5670 in my old Asus P6T Deluxe v2. The result is satisfactory to say the least.


Here are some pics with performance numbers.


Frybench render time: 2min 57s
http://u.cubeupload.com/jonaz81a/x56704750frybenchsky.jpg



Cinebench R15: 1100 points (A stock i7 4960X is 991p)
http://u.cubeupload.com/jonaz81a/x56704750gtx770cineb.jpg



Super PI: 32m 7m 57s
http://u.cubeupload.com/jonaz81a/x56704750superpi32ms.jpg



Not bad for a CPU that has been running 24/7 @ 4 GHz with air cooling since late 2010.
I put the CPU under water today but that diddnt increase my overclock with the same voltage, temperature has never really been an issue with this CPU. Perhaps I have hit a BCLK wall (the 24x multiplier is useless with stock bios). At least it makes less noise now then it did with the cheap Zalman 10x Performa cooler. Before anyone asks I have no idea if it will run LinX at this speed but it can Prime for a while and it can run all benchmarks and games. This build is not for important work.
 

primetime

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the 24x multiplier is useless with stock bios

perhaps you can share this bios? should work on mine if it works on yours...i remember reading of this non stock bios going around..but was afraid it was not compatible with xeons

I would be interested in hearing more on this bios, where to get it...and really should i try it?
 

Skyscraper

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perhaps you can share this bios? should work on mine if it works on yours...i remember reading of this non stock bios going around..but was afraid it was not compatible with xeons

I would be interested in hearing more on this bios, where to get it...and really should i try it?


I do not have the special P6T Deluxe bios with the option to disable the "CPU turbo power limit" so I use the 22x multiplier for anything over 4 GHz. I think that bios is too old anyway. I can use the 24x multiplier at up to 4000 mhz without any throttling but only because my CPU can run at that speed and still be under 95W.

We can use the latest bios for the P6T WS Professional if we only manage to flash it.
See this thread at Kingpincooling for reference.

http://kingpincooling.com/forum/showthread.php?t=669
 

Deimos

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I've just made a discovery about CPU voltage.
Someone mentioned in another thread not to use offset voltage when overclocking but after my findings I have to disagree.

First thing I noticed is that by using manual volts sleep is broken, my PC will sleep but I can't wake it, I end up having to power off at the mains to get it up and running again.

Second, when using offset voltage, the core volts is tied to the multiplier, so if you use +.2 offset while using a 22 multiplier, it is not the same as +.2 at 24 multiplier. for example, if I use +.3 w 22 I get 1.36v (max) but if I use +.2 at 24 the volts are north of 1.4v.

Lastly, if you are adjusting offset voltage you can check the resulting CPU volts in the BIOS monitor before going in to Windows, from my own testing the indicated volts in the BIOS is the maximum voltage you will see when the CPU is @ 100% load.
 

primetime

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I've just made a discovery about CPU voltage.
Someone mentioned in another thread not to use offset voltage when overclocking but after my findings I have to disagree.

First thing I noticed is that by using manual volts sleep is broken, my PC will sleep but I can't wake it, I end up having to power off at the mains to get it up and running again.

Second, when using offset voltage, the core volts is tied to the multiplier, so if you use +.2 offset while using a 22 multiplier, it is not the same as +.2 at 24 multiplier. for example, if I use +.3 w 22 I get 1.36v (max) but if I use +.2 at 24 the volts are north of 1.4v.

Lastly, if you are adjusting offset voltage you can check the resulting CPU volts in the BIOS monitor before going in to Windows, from my own testing the indicated volts in the BIOS is the maximum voltage you will see when the CPU is @ 100% load.

offset voltage? hmmm never seen that option in my asus bios....course it could be in one othe the higher end boards bios....like the previous poster mentioned
 

primetime

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I do not have the special P6T Deluxe bios with the option to disable the "CPU turbo power limit" so I use the 22x multiplier for anything over 4 GHz. I think that bios is too old anyway. I can use the 24x multiplier at up to 4000 mhz without any throttling but only because my CPU can run at that speed and still be under 95W.

We can use the latest bios for the P6T WS Professional if we only manage to flash it.
See this thread at Kingpincooling for reference.

http://kingpincooling.com/forum/showthread.php?t=669

very interesting...i will definatley look into this and see if it works:D...edit:nothing can be done unless you have the motherboard hes talking about to switch bios chips with....our boards wont let us cross flash......you would have to have that board as far as i can tell
 
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Skyscraper

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I guess you can just order a bios chip from Ebay?

I have a hard time accepting that there isnt a way to crossflash the P6T Deluxe as I cross-flashed the P6T SE with the normal P6T bios back in 2009 to get SLI support. I do not remember exactly how it was done but I got the instructions from a thread on some forum.

A quick search returned this thread.
http://www.overclock.net/t/586111/p6t-se-deal-thread-turned-discussion-cross-flash-to-p6t
 

primetime

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I guess you can just order a bios chip from Ebay?

I have a hard time accepting that there isnt a way to crossflash the P6T Deluxe as I cross-flashed the P6T SE with the normal P6T bios back in 2009 to get SLI support. I do not remember exactly how it was done but I got the instructions from a thread on some forum.

A quick search returned this thread.
http://www.overclock.net/t/586111/p6t-se-deal-thread-turned-discussion-cross-flash-to-p6t

i have to study up on it more...but we can rule out auss ez flash.....already tried that and wouldn't let me....possibly we can get AFUDOS and using a boot disk usb......been so many years since i had to go that route......in all honestly im not sure the risk is worth the possible gain...i doubt very seriously i could get mine really stable using a higher multiplier...im barley hanging on where im @4400mhz cause i really need 24/7 stability

i have changed the bios chip before....mine died in the first 6 months i had it updating the stupid way inside windows with asus update...its very easy to change and i think back then asus charged me like 20 bucks for the new chip...i was just shit out of luck for 2 weeks waiting for the chip and forced to use only my ancient backup system... but
you could be right...it could be possible to grab one pretty cheap via ebay
 

Deimos

[H]ard|Gawd
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I've just made a discovery about CPU voltage.
Someone mentioned in another thread not to use offset voltage when overclocking but after my findings I have to disagree.

First thing I noticed is that by using manual volts sleep is broken, my PC will sleep but I can't wake it, I end up having to power off at the mains to get it up and running again.

Second, when using offset voltage, the core volts is tied to the multiplier, so if you use +.2 offset while using a 22 multiplier, it is not the same as +.2 at 24 multiplier. for example, if I use +.3 w 22 I get 1.36v (max) but if I use +.2 at 24 the volts are north of 1.4v.

Lastly, if you are adjusting offset voltage you can check the resulting CPU volts in the BIOS monitor before going in to Windows, from my own testing the indicated volts in the BIOS is the maximum voltage you will see when the CPU is @ 100% load.

I'm wrong about the sleep issues, something else has broken it, haven't been able to figure it out yet. It's either a piece of new hardware or something about my Windows install is causing it.

The machine goes to sleep just fine but if I leave it sleeping for an extended period of time I can't wake it again. It started happening recently after all the faffing about with hardware and overclocking so I'm going to re-install windows from scratch again to see if that fixes it, could be some lingering drivers from the X-Fi or corruption from overclocking.

I'm going to hold out until AMD release new video drivers but will report back once it's done.
 

primetime

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I'm wrong about the sleep issues, something else has broken it, haven't been able to figure it out yet. It's either a piece of new hardware or something about my Windows install is causing it.

The machine goes to sleep just fine but if I leave it sleeping for an extended period of time I can't wake it again. It started happening recently after all the faffing about with hardware and overclocking so I'm going to re-install windows from scratch again to see if that fixes it, could be some lingering drivers from the X-Fi or corruption from overclocking.

I'm going to hold out until AMD release new video drivers but will report back once it's done.

not sure what issue is but mine will not wake above 200blck....period ..no amount of re installing windows will help this...its a board limit (at least in my case)
 
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