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Local Walmart had 12 quart box of synthetic oil for $30. Various grades. It's a 12 quart bag, not 12 1 quart bottle.
Here's a pic.
i might have been tempted to get this, as i past on it and bought the 15k type instead...fact is i just didnt feel like keeping the other half of it, in my truck until the next change. Is the 15K better oil? Maybe notI'd be all over it, but not the case here.
If you're interested in long life synthetics, it's time to move on from mobil one, et al and on to Amsoil. I've run redline, royal purple and both of these are great too. But nothing is as ridiculously good as the amsoil long life stuff ($14-$20/qt stuff last time I bought). I've run this stuff with their filters for literally years. It's the very best in oils ime.Is the 15K better oil? Maybe not
i might have been tempted to get this, as i past on it and bought the 15k type instead...fact is i just didnt feel like keeping the other half of it, in my truck until the next change. Is the 15K better oil? Maybe not
money wise thats like buying 6 qts of pure slick 50....thats at least double the cost but ill consider it next time...Had no idea Amsoil was so goodIf you're interested in long life synthetics, it's time to move on from mobil one, et al and on to Amsoil. I've run redline, royal purple and both of these are great too. But nothing is as ridiculously good as the amsoil long life stuff ($14-$20/qt stuff last time I bought). I've run this stuff with their filters for literally years. It's the very best in oils ime.
It's more expensive, but man it sure beat getting under the car each season to change the oil because of winter and whatnot. It was nice to just leave it in there and swap a filter and top it off and be done. And the filters were 12k too, so those last as well. And the engine always sounded protected--my ears are overly sensitive to metal on metal contact in engines; that and wasp wings on any surface--hate those #$%#$%! They're always out to get me!money wise thats like buying 6 qts of pure slick 50....thats at least double the cost but ill consider it next time...Had no idea Amsoil was so good
my ears are overly sensitive to metal on metal contact in engines
Sounds like you and I are on the same strategy. I use Mobil 1 and change my oil 3x per year (every 4 months).I change my oil pretty frequently. I think the longest I've let a full synthetic go was about 7k miles - and that's the longest. Usually about 5k. Wasting money? Sure. Doubly so since my oil changes are kinda expensive. Truck is about 16 quarts of Rotella T. Car is 9 qts of synthetic 0w20. That said, I want all the detergent working all the time, and for what amounts to a couple hundred dollars over the lifetime of a vehicle...meh.
My ears are good at picking up what I guess you could call 'excessive metal collision forces'. Engines are bound to make noises with all that is going on in them, but I can hear when valve shims are just a bit off, or a timing chain tensioner isn't right. Frankly, it drives me batty most of the time knowing that the car will have other issues before the engine goes anyways.Same. I spend too much time critically listening to engine sounds, especially for misfires that never throw a code but can lead to problems if not caught early. For friction sounds, it wasn't until I stopped going to the quick lube place and paying $50+ for them to change the oil with bulk (no doubt remanufactured) Quaker State garbage that I heard a difference.
Sounds like you and I are on the same strategy. I use Mobil 1 and change my oil 3x per year (every 4 months).
My truck takes 6 qt of 5w-30, GF's car takes 5 qt of 0w-20, my motorcycle takes 3.3 qt of 10w-30,
I hate that they're all different flavors, and it's a waste because we put very few miles on our vehicles.
BUT
My thinking is that since I live in South Florida, I'm more concerned about humidity/salt water condensation in the oil as it heat cycles.
So I change it every 4 months just because.
i seem to change about every 9 to 12 months...and i only drive to essential places (but there is good reason for that ) so i very much doubt i actually make a full 15k miles between changesMan that's hugely wasteful. This isn't 1950 anymore you can easily do it 1x per year if your mileage is low.
Mileage is low, but the climate is harsh. To be honest, IF we drove more, I'd probably change it less frequently.Man that's hugely wasteful. This isn't 1950 anymore you can easily do it 1x per year if your mileage is low.
Mileage is low, but the climate is harsh. To be honest, IF we drove more, I'd probably change it less frequently.
Mileage is low, but the climate is harsh. To be honest, IF we drove more, I'd probably change it less frequently.
In my specific case, I live in South Florida where it's typically 100% humidity, my house is 3.99 miles from the Ocean according to Google Maps. I drive ~2.5 miles to work and it's 2.0 miles from my house to the grocery store. Main issue is that the heat cycling is undoubtedly pulling condensation from the air into the oil and I'm getting more cycles rather than miles compared to the average driver. The more of those cycles, the 'waterier' the oil gets.What exactly do you think is happening with oil that is sitting in your sump unused?
In my specific case, I live in South Florida where it's typically 100% humidity, my house is 3.99 miles from the Ocean according to Google Maps. I drive ~2.5 miles to work and it's 2.0 miles from my house to the grocery store. Main issue is that the heat cycling is undoubtedly pulling condensation from the air into the oil and I'm getting more cycles rather than miles compared to the average driver. The more of those cycles, the 'waterier' the oil gets.
215,000 miles on various synthetics. Castrol, Mobil, or whatever in a pinch...
Mind you, my dodge v6 has hydraulic roller lifters which keep the cam from
wearing too much. But something now: cylinders, rings, and/or valve guides
are burning a quart or so of internal leakage every month. I did change the
timing chain once, front and rear seals at some point too.
Replacing lost/burnt oil isn't the same as draining the sludge. I havn't done
that properly in a while. Might have thrown a filter at it, not recently enough
to be certain.
Why did I just write and/or? Maybe "ior" could become proper engrish?
Might work here, but would get me laughed out of Wallmart. Embrace
the mighty Bool ior wallow ever in fossil lubricants, illogical wallyworld
troglodytes! Yeah, not happening...
In my specific case, I live in South Florida where it's typically 100% humidity, my house is 3.99 miles from the Ocean according to Google Maps. I drive ~2.5 miles to work and it's 2.0 miles from my house to the grocery store. Main issue is that the heat cycling is undoubtedly pulling condensation from the air into the oil and I'm getting more cycles rather than miles compared to the average driver. The more of those cycles, the 'waterier' the oil gets.
You are over thinking it.
The temperature variation isnt great enough to matter much and soon as you hit operating temp, any water that may be present is vaporized. Post this in the car forum and make it a poll if you dont believe me.
Definitely not synthetic blend. Mobile super is the synthetic blend. That is not this stuff. I bought the 5w-20, says full synthetic right on the box. Here's the product page: https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-personal-vehicles/our-products/products/mobil-1-5w-20Just want everyone to know, the product in the picture is a synthetic blend. Its a good oil, but you need to check your engines oil requirements before getting this. Some engines, especially new turbo engines, require the Mobile 1 Extended Performance which is a full synthetic oil.
If you want a rebate on the extended performance then use this:
https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/promotions/motor-oil-rebate-program-2020
I used to. Until I discovered some noise in my Accord's engine that sounds like main journal bearings that was confirmed by a friend who's a professional mechanic and Blackstone's reports were all good for the last 3 oil changes prior to that event. There should have been traces of copper in there, but there were none. I dropped them after that.Does anyone else besides me do Blackstone Oil Reports with every change? I've used that to definitively spec my oil change interval.
For example, with BMW's OE LL-04 oil ~8k miles was a good change interval for my 328d that sees track time. It didn't show any higher wear metal averages than before I started taking the car to the track, and showed the oil was almost out of its protectants. When I switched for Mobil 1 ESP Formula 5w30 (discontinued) I found I could go 10k miles with the same mixed DD/track use and have the same amount of wear metal concentrations as the OE oil. Now that coronavirus has shut everything down and I haven't been able to track much, I'm going to push that further and see what the results look like.
Humidity and salt are a HUGE deal, so I understand the caution. Oil is great in ideal circumstances, but in severe duty it does need to be changed more frequently--no way around it.Man that's hugely wasteful. This isn't 1950 anymore you can easily do it 1x per year if your mileage is low.
Losing a quart between changes--bad.Soo....
Is that good or bad?
Motul or nothing!Oh. And motorcycle oil - I'm using Mobil1 4T stuff...or whatever. Supposedly 2.2q but really more like 2.5
It is harsh. Hell, it's bad on people too. And it's not salt water, but salt air salt exposure in general. Salt particles getting into the engine and oil. Salt is very reactive.You're just being wasteful. FL is not a harsh climate and if salt water is getting into your engine you have other problems.
Oil's detergents and other molecules break down. Like how tylenol sitting for a year does.What exactly do you think is happening with oil that is sitting in your sump unused?
Not necessarily everywhere. Operating temp on a 2 mile trip isn't doing the same heating of the components as 20 miles, especially in different temps and humidities. And groupthink doesn't make things right or wrong.You are over thinking it.
The temperature variation isnt great enough to matter much and soon as you hit operating temp, any water that may be present is vaporized. Post this in the car forum and make it a poll if you dont believe me.
Humidity and salt are a HUGE deal, so I understand the caution. Oil is great in ideal circumstances, but in severe duty it does need to be changed more frequently--no way around it.
Actually, I probably will use that or Redline when it's track time!Motul or nothing!
I have always suspected it mostly normal for engines to use about a quart between changes......no visible leaks or smoke on mine eitherI used to have 4cyl Camry 2007 brand new, not sure where oil would go, but I always seemed almost a quart short when oil change was due. Exhaust pipe was clean and she ran fine.
I have always suspected it mostly normal for engines to use about a quart between changes......no visible leaks or smoke on mine either
Humidity and salt are a HUGE deal, so I understand the caution. Oil is great in ideal circumstances, but in severe duty it does need to be changed more frequently--no way around it.