1080ti Pre-order, Retail, and AIB availability watch

Yeah, just chucked an order in for 2x EVGA FE cards. Let's see what happens. If the wait gets silly I will look elsewhere.

Have ordered one of the HB SLI Bridges from Nvidia directly too. Roll on 4k sweetness!

Good luck !!
 
Interesting theory about binning, but they're not binning chips, and certainly not sticking lower-binned chips into their flagship AIB card. The value of the card, besides quieter, is also better I/O - particularly for VR headset owners, since its got 2 x HDMI (and a DVI-D) which are all absent on FE.

Huh, you know I didn't even notice the FE doesn't have DVI-D. I guess that rules it out for me regardless. I'm still one of the Korean 1440p plebs for now (tbf, running mine at 96hz it's actually still a damn nice monitor).
 
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Ordered one today from Nvidia, now I am having buyers remorse but of course they won't let you cancel. I'm aware that I'm unable to make a decision and stand by it.
 
Huh, you know I didn't even notice the FE doesn't have DVI-D. I guess that rules it out for me regardless. I'm still one of the Korean 1440p plebs for now (tbf, running mine at 96hz it's actually still a damn nice monitor).

They come with a DVI adapter. They said it was to improve air flow but I'm guessing there was a cost cutting consideration to it.
 
They come with a DVI adapter. They said it was to improve air flow but I'm guessing there was a cost cutting consideration to it.
Curious if its going to work on mine too, iirc converters don't play nice with some. Mine is a Xstar DP2710
 
Curious if its going to work on mine too, iirc converters don't play nice with some. Mine is a Xstar DP2710

Yeah, I got some DVI to DP active convertors for my old Alienware 120hz 3D monitors before I got these Asus monitors with native DP. High frequency monitors might be a problem with a convertor. You probably would be better off with a native DVI port.
 
Yeah, I got some DVI to DP active convertors for my old Alienware 120hz 3D monitors before I got these Asus monitors with native DP. High frequency monitors might be a problem with a convertor. You probably would be better off with a native DVI port.
Guess its about time for a monitor upgrade anyway.
 
Yeah, the convertor thing was giving me some fits, especially with 3D BD that didn't work at all. I'm pretty much done with DVI.

This brings up another thought. We spend all this money on powerful GPU's, fast/low latency monitors, I wonder if adding a converter would add some ms of lag. I suppose if the signaling is the same and the only thing being changed is the form factor you'd be good to go, but if the signal is also being modified, I would think there would have to be some additional delay vs a native connection.
 
Couldn't wait so went to local shop and bought an ASUS FE for 866 bucks. :rolleyes:
Fuck you newegg and the horse your back order rode in on.
 
Couldn't wait so went to local shop and bought an ASUS FE for 866 bucks. :rolleyes:
Fuck you newegg and the horse your back order rode in on.

WOW 166 dollar premium instead of wait. I guess time is money, lol..
 
Well, it is actually about a 100 bucks premium since I would need to get the card shipped from Newegg to NYC for 15 bucks and another 50-60 bucks down to UAE. So was ok w/ 100 bucks considering newegg pre-orders were not shipping since the 10th that I placed my order in. :rolleyes:
 
WOW 166 dollar premium instead of wait. I guess time is money, lol..

You've been able to buy from nVidia everyday this week so far around 9 AM. I had no problem placing an order for two that I'll have later this morning.
 
Well, it is actually about a 100 bucks premium since I would need to get the card shipped from Newegg to NYC for 15 bucks and another 50-60 bucks down to UAE. So was ok w/ 100 bucks considering newegg pre-orders were not shipping since the 10th that I placed my order in. :rolleyes:

well UAE part makes sense. I wouldn't have questioned your decision if I knew you weren't in the U.S
 
I am more bothered about 84 C than spending an extra 100 dollars right now. Need to create a custom fan curve and make sure it stays more than 2000 stable. Otherwise, this card is getting sold and I am waiting for some Strix in SLi like I did with my 1080s.
 
I am more bothered about 84 C than spending an extra 100 dollars right now. Need to create a custom fan curve and make sure it stays more than 2000 stable. Otherwise, this card is getting sold and I am waiting for some Strix in SLi like I did with my 1080s.

Really? Whats 50mhz on a card going to get you? I doubt you see make or brake performance for 50 mhz. lol
 
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Penis points. Also 84C is just not on. Fan speed after 55% is annoying. I don't need this crap. I had to buy a temp card because my 1080s sold for 500 bucks a pop so fast I couldn't resist selling them lol.
 
50Mhz + cooler + quieter is a big deal to many people. Myself included

cooler and quieter yes. But 50mhz on pascal? Common now its absolutely not going to break your game play experience. My response was to only 50mhz.
 
Also, all you guys going on about temps.

You do realise that despite the card running cooler, it's still dissipating he same amount of power right?

Take two cards

Card A: 250W, average cooling runs at 85C

Card B: 250W, good cooling runs at 70C.

The only difference is that Card B is better able to dissipate heat away from the chip and thus shows lower temps.

Both are dissipating exactly the same amount of energy which is ultimately expelled as heat into your room. Both will heat up the room equally.
 
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Well, it is actually about a 100 bucks premium since I would need to get the card shipped from Newegg to NYC for 15 bucks and another 50-60 bucks down to UAE. So was ok w/ 100 bucks considering newegg pre-orders were not shipping since the 10th that I placed my order in. :rolleyes:

try amazon UK, mine will cost around 770 USD shipped to qatar. it is backordered.
 
Also, all you guys going on about temps.

You do realise that despite the card running cooler, it's still dissipating he same amount of power right?

Take two cards

Card A: 250W, average cooling runs at 85C

Card B: 250W, good cooling runs at 70C.

The only difference is that Card B is better able to dissipate heat away from the chip and thus shows lower temps.

Both are dissipating exactly the same amount of energy which is ultimately expelled as heat into your room. Both will heat up the room equally.

Yeah, if you assume both cards always produce exactly their TDP worth of energy you would be correct. Unfortunately that's not how the world works. And it's not the only factor why people want better cooling on their cards either.

1 - Higher temperature can result in downclocking, in your example card A would already be throttling down it's core clock due to overheating.

2 - Electronics last longer if they run cooler. So a card that would run >80C with the stock cooler but 50C with a good watercooler installed would last much longer. And again your example would also show a big difference in average lifespan between the two cards. Could either of them last longer than you use them? Sure. But it's still a measurable difference.

3 - Efficiency. Electronics are more efficient at lower temperatures. So you will have more room for overclocking (in the spirit of [H]) if your cooling is able to dissipate more heat.
 
1. If it down-clocks it would also be using less power ;)
2. Has anyone here experienced, first hand, any noticeable reduction in lifespan of a product due to thermal degradation - short of actually killing the thing out right almost instantly??
3. I think it has already been noted that overclocking headroom is limited (see Strix review).
 
Whoop!

Snagged two MSI FEs from Ebuyer. Paid a slight premium (c. £30) to have them in time for the weekend. And my HB SLI Bridge turned up today too. Sweet.
 
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Whoop!

Snagged two MSI FEs from Ebuyer. Paid a slight premium (c. £30) to have them in time for the weekend. And my HB SLI Bridge turned up today too. Sweet.
Brilliant but also amazing.
Why do their listings not show they are in stock. Nutters.
They have done the same for 2 different cards, my friend didnt buy an Evga for certain (he's not happy with them).
 
Indeed. The Ebuyer mini-site for 1080Ti is a total flipping pain. It's not until you view the product detail page does it show in-stock or not.

Also, yesterday you could hit Pre-Order and then when in your basket it would say "2 in stock". Which is why I ordered the EVGA originally. However, this has now changed and instead it shows how many they have coming and when.

Either way, I cancelled my EVGAs and ordered the MSI cards. Got about £9 a card cashback from TopCashBack too (obviously I would have got cashback if the cards were cheaper so still a premium either way).

Should be with me tomorrow...
 
1. If it down-clocks it would also be using less power ;)
2. Has anyone here experienced, first hand, any noticeable reduction in lifespan of a product due to thermal degradation - short of actually killing the thing out right almost instantly??
3. I think it has already been noted that overclocking headroom is limited (see Strix review).
I know it uses less power when it downclocks. I didn't mention it because I was curious if you knew more than your previous post indicated, because that's a direct contradiction to what you said above.

My main point is that your previous post was a very narrow and hypothetical view of reality. In practice there are numerous factors that influence this and considering the running temperature of a piece of electronics is very on point, just not from the 'heating your room' point of view.

Regarding thermal degradation, if you understand the theory behind it you also know it's a given fact that all electronics have it. There's a good reason these cards start throttling at 84C, it's so that 99% of the cards will make it through the 3 years of warranty. But if you sell it after 6 months to get the latest and greatest this won't really affect you ever. So it's a matter of perspective.

Time to get back on topic a bit more; I'm personally holding out for an AIB card. My current GPU is an Asus GTX980 Strix with an EK fullcover waterblock on it and I kind of want a factory mounted waterblock this time around. So I'm awaiting more news regarding the MSi Sea Hawk EK for starters, which in turn means I'm stuck on the fence for now.
 
If you've done the custom block thing before, why the reluctance now? Warranty issues?

I was procrastinating a lot but decided to "shit" (rather than just covering the pot)...and, as mentioned above, should have two MSI FEs in my machine by tomorrow evening (all things being equal).

Rather looking forward to it now!
 
Also, all you guys going on about temps.

You do realise that despite the card running cooler, it's still dissipating he same amount of power right?

Take two cards

Card A: 250W, average cooling runs at 85C

Card B: 250W, good cooling runs at 70C.

The only difference is that Card B is better able to dissipate heat away from the chip and thus shows lower temps.

Both are dissipating exactly the same amount of energy which is ultimately expelled as heat into your room. Both will heat up the room equally.

Considering no one here has made the claim that the cooler running cards are consuming less power, i'd say we are all well aware.

And actually, when it comes to semiconductors, higher temps = lower resistance = more leakage = more power usage. So everything else being equal, lower temps actually does decrease power consumption.
 
Just got my Friday Newegg order. Its a day late from the storm but its here!
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And actually, when it comes to semiconductors, higher temps = lower resistance = more leakage = more power usage. So everything else being equal, lower temps actually does decrease power consumption.

How much difference does it make? Say 85C vs 70C, what percentage reduction in Wattage are we likely to see?
 
How much difference does it make? Say 85C vs 70C, what percentage reduction in Wattage are we likely to see?

It matters not, for two reasons.

No one was claiming reduced power consumption or lower heat output, which your post seemed to imply people were doing. Most people want AIB for noise and heat. Heat mainly to maintain boost clocks or maintain and over clock.

2nd, that post was factually incorrect anyway for reasons I mentioned. How much lower would need to be measured. I'm sure there's some sort of formula that will give you a rough idea, I don't know what that formula would be.
 
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