100% Working repair for Gateway XHD3000 30" LCD monitor

ekuest

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Feb 23, 2009
Messages
6,091
Can the Remote do everything that the Menu bottons did / do? For some wierd reason I can only control the volume at this point. Is there a way to check / make the remote do all the controlling?
the remote i have has buttons for everything. input will get you switching between inputs, and the menu button will let you adjust the picture. i dont use any of the other buttons since i only use mine as a computer monitor. as far as i can tell though, i can use my remote for everything. the only thing it wont do is when you unplug the power cord, you have to choose your geographic region with the monitor buttons, cant do it with the remote. if you break the buttons like i did, you just have to wait like half an hour until the monitor goes to sleep and when you wake it up the geographic location menu will be gone. is your remote not working for the menu items or something?
 

crashnburn

Weaksauce
Joined
Nov 4, 2007
Messages
93
Ah! The Bloody thing works :) I remember using it before and for some reason it did not a couple of times.
Maybe it doesnt work for everything from far? I'll check for it.

My XHD is Fw 1.01. Also, the COLOR Menu (while using the remote) seems to be disabled.

Hey is there a way I could get it to operate my AppleTV-hacked via XBMC?

- One more question: How do I get the Region & Language selection MENU Item to not come up everytime I power up. Its kinda stupid.
 

Cyant

Gawd
Joined
Apr 2, 2007
Messages
833
If someone is able to order a few replacement boards from the china website then I will buy one from you. Send me a PM if you do thanks!
 

ekuest

Supreme [H]ardness
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Feb 23, 2009
Messages
6,091
i keep having to do this to my monitor like every week or sometimes more now. is there a way to fix this thing permanently? like baking it in an oven instead of using a lighter? or maybe getting a new board? im getting tired of taking it apart every few days. :/
 

Lateralus

More [H]uman than Human
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Aug 7, 2004
Messages
15,736
You could try baking it (or adding active cooling if you haven't already), but if that failed I would just move on. When it gets to the point of fixing that often, there's likely little you can do that would be cost-effective to keep it alive for a significant period of time.
 

ekuest

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Feb 23, 2009
Messages
6,091
You could try baking it (or adding active cooling if you haven't already), but if that failed I would just move on. When it gets to the point of fixing that often, there's likely little you can do that would be cost-effective to keep it alive for a significant period of time.
yeah i already got active cooling on there. i guess i should try baking it next time it gets messed up.
 

FragMagnet

[H]ard|Gawd
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Mar 11, 2000
Messages
1,529
It may be a case of not enough solder on the original chip bga, or simply getting it flat and adding pressure. You may want to try finding a local repair shop for industrial electronics. I used to use one back in the slot A Athlon days to move around surface mount resistors and o-clock the chips that way. They only charged me $10 a piece for the 2 cpu's they did for me. Sorry for going off on a tangent, but I do recall seeing what amounted to a "chip iron" sort of a soldering iron with a flat square metal pad on it, may be just what you're looking for
 

revtech

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Joined
Jun 22, 2010
Messages
8
XHD3000 Permanent Easy Repair Modification and Mysteries explained.
revtech2010@ymail.com
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1527751

Well finally I figured out what was happening. This is a combined picture tutorial on dismantling the monitor and putting it back in a way that makes future repairs very convenient and quick. I have also found answers to some mysterious problems.

You can download all the pics and instructions in one easy archive here
http://www.fileserve.com/file/WB2GwDK
Or read through here.

Taking the monitor apart.
1) Lay the monitor's screen on a table, in order to remove the stand. Remove the 4 screws that fasten the stand to the monitor.


2) Then use a thin flat ruler to pry on the sides to remove the back cover. It comes off easily.


3) You should now see something like in picture 3. Remove the aluminum foil. It really isn't needed. On the left side you will see a tiny thin white ribbon cable. This is what connects to the touch panel on the front. Remove all the nuts indicated in picture 3.


4) As you can see in picture 4, there is another thick black cable with a white connector on the left side. Remove this first.


5) To remove the big metal cage, unscrew the nuts on the "input connector panel" at the back as indicated in picture 5. You also have to remove the 2 nuts on either side of both the white DVI and blue VGA connectors. Now slide the metal cage back JUST A LITTLE TO CLEAR THE SLOTS, and then lift it off carefully MAKING SURE NOT TO DAMAGE THE THIN WHITE RIBBON MENTIONED EARLIER.
The main metal frame itself can be slid back; but don't do this yet.


6) You should now be able to the see the main circuit board with the white ribbon cable attached on the left, and another smaller metal cage at the top that covers the LTM300M1C8LV3.2" Logic board (this is the board with the ALTERA chip that needs to be reheated (resouldered or reflowed)) as shown in picture 6. The red and black wires are the ones that were put in to fix the extra fan. I removed it as cooling isn't actually required!


7) Remove the white ribbon cable by gently pulling it to the left as shown in picture 7. Now slide the main Metal frame backwards a little.


8) As shown in picture 8, you will see 2 black cables connected to a the LTM300M1C8LV3.2" Logic board that is still covered by the smaller metal cage as shown in picture 6.
These 2 black cables are taped to the bottom. Remove the second metal cage covering the LTM300M1C8LV3.2" Logic board by unscrewing the nuts indicated in picture 6.
Alright from here onwards, we are going to MAKE SOME DRASTIC CHANGES TO THE REPAIR METHOD that will make future repairs quite convenient and quick! Please be patient and gentle while doing this as you will only have to this once.


9) Detach the 2 black cables attached to the LTM300M1C8LV3.2" Logic board AND REMOVE THE TAPES HOLDING THEM TO THE BOTTOM, AS SHOWN IN PICTURES 9 AND 10.


10) Discard the tape if you want. Now swivel the small metal cage up.


11) Also detach the USB connector to make handling easier as shown in picture 11.


12) You should now be seeing something similar to picture 12, with both circuit boards exposed, and 2 black cables detached.


WARNING!!!!! Be very careful with the following steps. These steps will also help explain some of the mysteries and root causes of faults.

13) There are 4 brown plastic connectors fixed to 4 white slots as shown in picture 13. The 2 on the left carry data for the exact left half of the monitor's pixels and the 2 on the right for the pixels on the right side!


14) Here is how to remove them; Lift the brown "tops" to flip them open (they swivel up) as shown in picture 14.


15) Now very gently slide them out as shown in picture 15. Why gently? Well this is what answers 2 of our mysteries!!
These brown connectors have very thin metal connection strips on them THAT CAN BE EASILY RUBBED OR WORN OFF! If this happens to even one connector, YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO SEE EXACTLY ONE HALF OF YOUR SCREEN (that half becomes completely black)!! So be very carefull. If this does happen, read my solution in "notes".
Also the white or multicolored vertical band that develops is due to a bad connection in these brown connectors and not the ALTERA chip!!! The green haze, flickering and blurring is due to the Altera chip!


16) You should now be at picture 16 where you can take away the small metal cage and can take off the LTM300M1C8LV3.2" Logic board. Remove any thermal pads on the chips (but don't throw them away).
Now you can simply do the candle heating method where you turn the LTM300M1C8LV3.2" Logic board upside down (holding it horizontally) and heat the Altera chip with the candle flame for about 30 seconds, and then let the board cool for about 10 miniutes. Wipe off the black soot that collects on the chip.


17) NOW HERE IS THE REVOLUTIONARY NEW IDEA TO MAKE REPAIRS MORE CONVENIENT!!!!:D

DON'T PUT THE LTM300M1C8LV3.2" Logic board BACK INTO THE IT'S ORIGINAL PLACE!!

As shown in picture 17, the 2 black connectors can be placed outside on top!


18) Now reconnect the touch panel's "thin white ribbon cable" by gently sliding it back into it's slot (this is easier if you hold it with a tweezer). Also attach the "thick black cable with the white connector" on the left as shown in picture 18.


19) Now you can put put the "main metal frame" back into position, FIX THE NUTS, SLIDE THE BIG METAL CAGE BACK ON AND FIX ALL THE CORRESPONDING NUTS, and attach the USB connector as well. You should now have a setup similar to picture 19!


20) As shown in picture 20, the 2 black cables and the 4 brown connectors should now be on the OUTSIDE!


21) As shown in picture 21 go ahead and CAREFULLY ATTACH ALL THE CONNECTORS AGAIN to the LTM300M1C8LV3.2" Logic board. Slide a brown connector in and then flip back the top brown cover to lock it in place. Do this for all 4. You can pull back the "flat recatangualr rubber ring" on the bigger black connector to bend the wires a bit more easily.


22) You should now have a arrangement similar to picture 22!

Compare with picture 3 and see the difference.


23) Again A NEW IDEA HERE. Dont put the "back cover" back. Simply attach the stand back to the monitor using the 4 big nuts as shown in picture 23.


24) NOW THE BEST PART!!!!!!! As shown in picture 24, if you need to reheat the altera chip in the future with a candle, simply disconnect power, tilt the monitor back, hold the candle for 30 seconds, let it cool, connect power back on and you are good to go!! You should be carefull not to heat some of the other parts, though a candle shouldn't be a problem.

FUTURE REPAIRS TAKE ONLY 30 EASY SECONDS INSTEAD OF 1 TEDIOUS HOUR!!!!!!!!:D:D


25) Picture 25 shows how everything is positioned and sits at the back.


26) Remember to attach the heat pads onto the chips again.


If you really want to put the back cover on, then I guess you could cut out the middle top part of the back cover for easy access in the future. Make sure not to cut out the lower part so that you can use it as a hinge to swivel the "cut part" up and down when doing the candle trick.


Notes:
1) Remember if you get green lines, haze, blury flickering, then that is due to the Altera chip and you need to do the candle trick. However, if you are getting the broad white (or multicolored) vertical band then ITS PROBABLY DUE TO THE BROWN CONNECTORS.

2) If you have the problem where half the screen is dark, then that is probably due to the "worn off" "connection strips" printed on the brown connectors. If this happens, I guess you could do the following; Check all 4 brown connectors to see if any have worn off connection strips. If they do, do ONE of the following;
a) Take a single or double thread from a tiny copper wire, cut out an appropriate length, and tape it to the connector to connect accross a gap.
b) Apply a micro amount of lead (with a soulder) to any worn off gaps. Be very carefull.
c) Connect the brown connector to a modified old parrellel hard drive cable, make a suitable end connector and connect that to the original slot or even to the L shaped metal pins running into the white slots.

3) When I said "permanent fix" I meant an easier and shorter way to repair with the candle method.

4) Before when I ran the monitor at below the native resolution, it actually fixed the green problem automatically and then when running again in the native 2560x1600 the problem would reappear. I guess the extra heat generated by the ALTERA video chip due to the scalling effort, RESULTED IN THE CHIP ACTUALLY SELF RESOULDERING IT SELF TEMPORARILY!

That's why I have removed the fan.


Whew! Spent a long time taking pics, putting in directions, and uploading everything. Hope this helps everyone!:D

This also goes to show just how badly this has been engineered!
Anyway, this really should make this situation more bearable. Know of any better methods to fill gaps in worn off printed connectors? Leave your suggestions and methods.:)
 
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Lateralus

More [H]uman than Human
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Aug 7, 2004
Messages
15,736
Wow, revtech. Amazing job, thanks for your hard work and detailed pics and instructions. I've been following this thread even though I do not own the XHD3000, and I'm sure people who are suffering from monitor failure REALLY appreciate your efforts!
 

ekuest

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Feb 23, 2009
Messages
6,091
nice idea revtech. i have reflowed mine about 10-15 times now, and got to where the whole process only takes about 15 minutes. i have thrown away a bunch of the screws that werent needed to make it simpler. last ime, though, the fix only lasted for about a day. so then i tried baking it in the oven at 375 for 8 minutes and that seems to be much more permanent than the candle method, at least for me right now. right now i have the back cover off, and 5 small usb fans cooling it. i think i might try what you did with putting the board on the outside, and then try to affix a large heat sink to it, since im getting sick of the noise the fans make. i think the chip would be fine if it didnt have 2 differnet thermal pads on it ruining the heat transfer. again, excellent guide, and thanks for all the work youve done. great ideas!
 
Joined
Oct 31, 2010
Messages
10
Just be damn careful when working around those ribbons on the top of the screen one little mishap and the screen is done !
 
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ekuest

Supreme [H]ardness
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Feb 23, 2009
Messages
6,091
so how did you fix these 65 monitors? just replace the board?
 

InternationalHat

[H]ard|Gawd
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Aug 13, 2004
Messages
1,481
Solder does fill small gaps. That's exactly what it is meant to do.

Baking is often how components on PCBs are set in the first place especially with SMT compoents.

Lead-free solder should melt around 250-270C. Getting the board/chip up to that temperature without affecting surrounding components is potentially difficult without a reflow station. A lighter/torch is not really the right way to do it haha. A cheap heat gun might save some headache if you don't want to find someone with a reflow station.
 

ghost6303

2[H]4U
Joined
Jul 24, 2004
Messages
2,291
We don't need you to tell us the risks, of course we all know that taking a candle to a $1500+ piece of equipment is a horrible Idea, but if it works, then we avoid having to pay price gougers like you to fix it for us.

Either be productive and tell us how YOU fix it that is so correct, or gtfo of this thread.
if you are going to be doing reflow work with an open flame, you might as well use a propane torch or bunsen burner. the carbon (black soot) that you get with a dirty flame like a match, candle, or lighter is both conductive and corrosive and a bad idea around circuits. not to mention the temperature of a candle is 1500+ degrees at the flame but is too weak to evenly heat the area that you need to. you need to slowly and evenly heat a large area around the chip you are working on in order to prevent stress cracking other circuits. then you need to at least let it cool by itself (NO blowing on it or trying to cool it quickly), or even better would be to put it in a low temp oven (200 degrees F ) immediately after, then after several minutes, take it out and let it cool the rest of the way.

try going to mouser.com or digi-key.com and looking up any various chips and reading the tech sheets. they give you extraordinarily exact temperature graphs that the manufacturer is to follow when assembling the components. ramp-up and ramp-down temperatures and times are important, and there is usually a window of a few seconds that the component can remain at peak (reflow) temperature before you risk burning it up. for a 1-off job like repairing a monitor, these temps/times arent as critical, but you still want to use as little heat and as little time as you can to do the job. a candle just doesnt have the accuracy necessary.

i can not stress enough how much this work should not be done with fire, unless you really could care less if it ends up working or not. if you care at all about possibly (or probably) destroying your monitor, you need to go to home depot and spend $30 on either a soldering iron or a heat gun. a hot air rework station would be even better, and is $150 for a cheap one- less than the cost of the replacement board on ebay.

you do not need a $1500 rework station for this.

side question- is the chip really a BGA (pinless) or is it a Quad Flat Package with pins on the edges?
 
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ToMMyGuN

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jul 9, 2008
Messages
327
if you are going to be doing reflow work with an open flame, you might as well use a propane torch or bunsen burner. the carbon (black soot) that you get with a dirty flame like a match, candle, or lighter is both conductive and corrosive and a bad idea around circuits. not to mention the temperature of a candle is 1500+ degrees at the flame but is too weak to evenly heat the area that you need to. you need to slowly and evenly heat a large area around the chip you are working on in order to prevent stress cracking other circuits. then you need to at least let it cool by itself (NO blowing on it or trying to cool it quickly), or even better would be to put it in a low temp oven (200 degrees F ) immediately after, then after several minutes, take it out and let it cool the rest of the way.

try going to mouser.com or digi-key.com and looking up any various chips and reading the tech sheets. they give you extraordinarily exact temperature graphs that the manufacturer is to follow when assembling the components. ramp-up and ramp-down temperatures and times are important, and there is usually a window of a few seconds that the component can remain at peak (reflow) temperature before you risk burning it up. for a 1-off job like repairing a monitor, these temps/times arent as critical, but you still want to use as little heat and as little time as you can to do the job. a candle just doesnt have the accuracy necessary.

i can not stress enough how much this work should not be done with fire, unless you really could care less if it ends up working or not. if you care at all about possibly (or probably) destroying your monitor, you need to go to home depot and spend $30 on either a soldering iron or a heat gun. a hot air rework station would be even better, and is $150 for a cheap one- less than the cost of the replacement board on ebay.

you do not need a $1500 rework station for this.

side question- is the chip really a BGA (pinless) or is it a Quad Flat Package with pins on the edges?
I think I spoke for a majority I am not apart of in my previous post - I utilized a true reflow oven to fix my xhd3000, not the candle method. If I were to go at it by hand, I would get an IR temp probe and a heat gun and do it as accurate to the specifications set forth by altera here (page 2 for chart) to give myself the best chance of success.

I would not take an open flame to something I was serious about getting to work, but it bugs me that ebay users like this bammbamm guy and "XHD3000Man" come to this forum and shoot others down. If we wanted your advice or service, we would utilize it on our own! Nothing against free speech, but this is a hardware enthusiast forum bent on keeping things friendly and just. These guys can pander all they want, but essentially insulting others without providing alternative ideas is just plain rude and childish.
 

ToMMyGuN

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jul 9, 2008
Messages
327
side question- is the chip really a BGA (pinless) or is it a Quad Flat Package with pins on the edges?
From what I have heard and read on sites different from this one, it is infact a ball grid array. Unfortunately I am not in a position to pry the chip up and have a gander at it :)
 

revtech

n00b
Joined
Jun 22, 2010
Messages
8
Hi
Like it has been pointed out several times in this forum, this BabBammfram (aliases "John", "XHDman") guy is the one who is trying to coax people into getting his repair service online. So ANYTHING he says ("advice" "suggestions") here is suspect and there is obviously conflict of interest. I also noticed 1-2 day old users "highly recomending him". Multiple accounts maybe.

Notice how he absolutely tries to discredit anyone who makes DIY suggestions here and also discourages people from even thinking of repairing it themselves; it's either his service or armageddon.

He also took our idea of attaching a fan and heat sinks (first post) and then went and SOLD that idea online and then comes back here regularly to attack and discredit all of us again! Just see the tone and attitude he has; He's furious that there is now a picture tutorial. So he calls it a "candle joke". The candle method suggested by user "vblh1976's" link has worked for hundreds of people and it cost them nothing! This post was really to make it even easier by having the logic board outside.

I don't mind somebody trying to make money, but again this thread is to help people who have already spent a lot of money buying this, and to try to fix it themselves, and to help and promote it. This monitor was dead before "pawstar" suggested resoldering and then the candle trick was suggested. That's what made me start this thread and a lot of people have added to the DIY info here, including the oven method suggested by Ekuest (which he did and succeeded and now that's one more reliable DIY way).

As for the post itself, of course I didn't go into too much detail as I thought people would read through the whole thread and read everyone's suggestions and understand the procedure; hence the forum link on the pics.

The first post has all the manufacturer links about this chip.
http://www.altera.com/literature/an/an081.pdf?GSA_pos=1&WT.oss_r=1&WT.oss=an081

Yes the candle method is pretty crude and risky. But as suggested earlier maybe a candle cup might be better; no soot and pretty even heating,
http://www.tuaw.com/2007/06/25/repair-your-ibooks-logic-board-with-a-candle/

If something does happen to the board then you can buy a new or used one here for $40.

http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=4424159871

http://www.xincai168.com/product_show.asp?id=475

Till then, never give up.

Well keep the suggestions coming.
 

ToMMyGuN

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jul 9, 2008
Messages
327
Thanks for cleaning that up Kyle.

Back on topic, is anyone interested in ordering a batch of these cards? I would be down for 2, but I can't read any of the chinese characters, and I am a little wary of translating it and trying to order one myself. Anyone with chinese experience want to bundle an order together? I am sure I am not the only one interested in this
 

Lateralus

More [H]uman than Human
Joined
Aug 7, 2004
Messages
15,736
Funny how all these new people keep signing up pimping the LTM300M1C8LV3.2 boards and knocking the DIY methods.

I'm not saying that they are all alternate egos of XHD3000Man or that the board replacement doesn't work. It's just oddly coincidental.

Johnboy1943560, that's awesome that your screen is working again due to the purchase of a brand new LTM300M1C8LV3.2 from the Computerguru43560 guy on eBay and that you feel he should not be blamed for the actions of another seller. I'm sure he is a stand-up guy that would not stoop to creating multiple accounts on a forum to keep tabs on a thread that might benefit his business. Good luck with your monitor and I hope it gives you a few more years of trouble-free service.
 
Joined
Oct 31, 2010
Messages
10
Its pretty easy to tell that they are not in fact the same person because when I sent a message to the Computerguru43560 guy I flat out asked him if he was XHD300 on here and he said yes. But on the bottom of the eBay messages it says what state the person is in and the Computerguru43560 person lives in Ohio where as Babbammframs says there located in PA. All im saying is Im pretty sure the person you have been talking to these past few days is not the Computerguru43560 person AKA XHD3000man but in-fact a totally different seller all together !!!!
 
Joined
Oct 31, 2010
Messages
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Alright everyone I am going to just come out and say it I am XHD3000Repair AKA Computerguru43560 man and I have not said a word in this user forum for over a month now!!!! The only reason I created another user name was to have the option to post if I was so inclined. Whoever you have been feuding with over the past few days is not me. I mean come on guys think about it I sell brand new boards I don’t offer any repair services to fix the old broken ones so if anything it would be nothing but good for my business for people to attempt to fix their boards using extreme methods such as a candle etc because I know there is a very real chance that someone attempting to repair their boards using one of these methods will screw up and brick the thing leaving them with only two choices either get one from China that’s probably used if you can find one or purchasing one from me. So it is in my best interest to keep my mouth shut about the various methods individuals on this form have been trying and that is exactly what I have been doing!!!!

The two new individuals who have popped up these past few days knocking all the various ideas users of this form have tried is not me it is one of my competitors on eBay. I felt it necessary to come and bring all of this to light because although in the past under the user name of XHD3000man I did try to promote my business I also believe that there comes a time when one over promotes and ends up turning people away !
Having said all this I want to close by saying that I will read the forums from time to time but I will not be postings on them so any new users who show up or any current ones who try do dissuade you from attempting to repair the units your self are in no way shape or form connected to me Computerguru43560 on eBay.

Thanks for your time !
 
Joined
Apr 14, 2008
Messages
42
Revtec - Have you had to re-burn the chip since doing the candle trick? I used a heat gun for about 1 minute on low and haven't had any issues since, going on 5 days now. I have my fingers crossed. I have the chip out of the case like your pictures.

Has anyone had success using a copper heatsink and fan connected to the chip with success?

One thing I would like to figure out is how to connect a fan to turn on only when the monitor is on. There's some 5VDC wires on PS that I should be able to draw from. If I figure it out I will post it up. Time to break out the multimeter:D
 

ToMMyGuN

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jul 9, 2008
Messages
327
DirtDiggler -

I would be very interested to see what you come up with to only have the fan on while the unit is. Keep us posted!
 

revtech

n00b
Joined
Jun 22, 2010
Messages
8
Hi Dirtdiggler,
The candle repair lasts about 7-8 days (I don't have a heat gun :( ), but it's easier to do it now. Use a metal "heat shield" on top of the flame to protect the connectors. You can remove the board and do it too. Ekuest's oven heating might last longer. I have been thinking of having an aluminum block to cool the components, though there isn't much heat built up as the thermal pads are in touch with the frame as shown in pic 26 and as the pcb is outside now and there is good airflow in my room. You can add a fan and sink depending on your situation and layout.

The connectors for the fan can be taken off the leads shown in picture 6 (Red and black wires).
. Match amperage for the fan.

You could have a tiny manual switch to turn the fan on and off.
To do it automatically, guess you'll have to find a power lead on that board that comes on only when the picture is on, or get a nand gate setup.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Negated_AND_gate
Something like
http://www.westfloridacomponents.com/IC408PD/74HC03D+74HC03+Quad+2+Input+Nand+Gate+IC+Philips.html
Get something made in the USA if you can, so it should last a while. You might find this in your town too or just google.

I'm a bit busy these days, so I haven't been able to check this out. I'll let you know if I find something.

Meanwhile if you are worried about soot from the candle, you can check this soldering iron;
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882577007&cm_re=solder-_-82-577-007-_-Product

it heats up to 400C:). You can use this to heat the ALTERA chip along with a thin square metal plate on top of the chip to even the heating. Probably "touch it" parallel to the chip to even the heating as best as you can. Use a thermometer to check the temps. Should be cleaner than a candle. Just another suggestion; haven't tried it myself. However, I have used the candle method for 3 months with no problems:D.

Regards,
Revtech.
 
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Joined
Apr 14, 2008
Messages
42
Revtec -

Thanks for the photos and info! I actually own the Samsung 305T with the same faulty chip. It shouldn't be too hard to find some wires that wake up the screen to work the fan. I will just poke around for a bit. Last night I used the monitor for about 5 hours and touched the top of the Altera chip with my finger (because I'm stupid like that), it felt like touching a hot stove :eek: I easily could have burned my finger. I immediately decided to turn the monitor off until I figure out how to draw heat directly away from the chip.

So what I'm wondering form your photo's is that if the candle fix only last for 7-8 days, does the fan help extend the time or does it not make a difference?

I bet if a copper heatsink and fan combo were attached right on top of the chip correctly it would at least extend the time between needing to re-melt it, maybe even fix the problem completely. I will re-post once I have it setup.
 
Joined
Nov 27, 2010
Messages
16
Read this a week ago.
Tried it .
NO DICE !!!
Went from flashing to NO PICTURE !!!:mad:

Just saw a guy from Nebraska give one away on ebay.
He tried with a heat gun and also totally lost picture !!
$1000 plus monitor done in and sold for $300 !! Hardly worth the attempt to reflow it yourself, I think !! :confused:
May work on some, BUT NOT ALL !!

Found a guy nearby that is going to try a full reball for me. We'll see !!

I'LL BE BACK !
 

pawstar

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jul 2, 2005
Messages
465
Read this a week ago.
Tried it .
NO DICE !!!
Went from flashing to NO PICTURE !!!:mad:

Just saw a guy from Nebraska give one away on ebay.
He tried with a heat gun and also totally lost picture !!
$1000 plus monitor done in and sold for $300 !! Hardly worth the attempt to reflow it yourself, I think !! :confused:
May work on some, BUT NOT ALL !!

Found a guy nearby that is going to try a full reball for me. We'll see !!

I'LL BE BACK !
Oh gee, another guy with only one post so far bashing the DIY method repair. Hmm, yeah, makes one really wonder. Why do I have a deep suspicion ....
 
Joined
Nov 27, 2010
Messages
16
Oh gee, another guy with only one post so far bashing the DIY method repair. Hmm, yeah, makes one really wonder. Why do I have a deep suspicion ....

when and if I find the cause to failure
I'LL BE BACK !
 
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pawstar

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jul 2, 2005
Messages
465
You were never a noobie with a first post ??
I found something on an hp3065 !

Where in the rules does it say all posts need to be POSITIVE ??
Isn't the purpose of forum to get a general concensus or a sort of review ? Kind of like you were waiting for on that HP before taking the plunge ?

If I were bashing, I would have written all the cuss words that came out of me when my attempt failed.
I am just saying that it didn't work for me.. DON'T KNOW why ? but I am hoping to find out !
If it had worked I would have posted POSITIVE !

If you want to whine about a user: You should whine about that guy that claimed to be going to buy a board on ebay and as it turns out bought his own !!?? But NOT !!
Now that is dirty !

when and if I find the cause to failure
I'LL BE BACK !
What a very interesting response ... how defensive and aggressive at the slightest hint .... Hmm !!!

Lets look at your initial post: you say that the monitor is totally done it ? How ? If you really did overcook the T-Con logic board (which of course is totally possible) then at most you need to buy a new board (obviously not at the ridiculously overpriced eBay price). The whole monitor is not "done in".

And guess what, I don't have an HP <whatever it is you are referring to>
 

ToMMyGuN

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jul 9, 2008
Messages
327
Haha, I love the aggressive response from a "new user". That's how a real new person would respond, I am sure of it... hahaha

Back to the topic of this thread, anyone else interested in getting their names down for a batch order list? I have one down already, and even though I don't speak chinese, I can at least catalog that you would be interested if the opportunity ever arises to purchase a lot.

Or the 3 or 4 "new users" could be a good [H] user are help us all out...
 
Joined
Apr 14, 2008
Messages
42
I just wanted to give a good review to the guy on Ebay, Fran, who repairs monitors and sells repair kits. I think he got his ass reamed earlier on this thread. Sure, it's frustrating when you want your monitor to work and you have someone tell you not to use a candle. I doubted it at first but quickly learned that Fran does actually DOES know what he is doing. I bought one of his 305T board fans and it works incredibly well. It was plug and play when I got it in the mail. My monitor is 100% fully working without a single issue using his info and product. Not only that, the fan turns on ONLY when the monitor backlight is on! His kit is not just a fan, heatsinks and glue, there's also a modified wire harness, a modified tin cage, voltage regulator and fuse specific for the monitor. I was orignally going to make something similar to what he sells but the amount of time it would have taken me to do it made the $70.00 seem very reasonable. He really put the time into knowing the circuitry, using the correct heatsink fan, placement on the cage, and also creating a detailed PDF guide for the installation. Consider this a nod for his help and kit. And no, I'm definitely not affiliated with him, just a happy customer with a working monitor now. I can tell you this; I ended up reflowing the chip myself with a heat gun. I only needed to do it once. I would be careful with heating it up too quickly, you need to warm it up slowly then go in at a higher temp. It took about 2 1/2 to 3 minutes with the heat gun, super easy and clean. Good Luck!
 
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Joined
Nov 27, 2010
Messages
16
I'm BACK !
MY ORIGINAL chip was NOT COOKED :p even though it is possible since the chip is only supposed to get around 220 celcius and a candle gets way hotter than that !!
See link:
http://hypertextbook.com/facts/1999/JaneFishler.shtml
Yep 800 to 1400 celcius !! :eek:

From what I was told by the retired guy that fixed it:
Some contacts had the solder let loose which caused my flickering.
When I reheated it, I caused more to loosen up.

The contacts that were loose can be seen and actually almost oxidized from heat and being loose and would not grab the solder. Adding FLUX may have helped but Flux and candles may not mix well since some fluxes will flash when exposed to a flame !!
Even with the chip out, the contacts had to be really cleaned well to accept the balls with flux, so cleaning them in place is virtually impossible
IF USING FLUX with the chip in place: Use liquid and NOT PASTE !! Too much paste will bubble when heated and will shove the solder around and will cause 2 to touch and short out

COOKED and CHINA taobao (should be Taboo !!)
I tried China first !! BIG MISTAKE !!
Had to go to 4 sellers before I even found one.
According to the two Taobao agents I talked with:
Seems sellers on Taobao, do not get charged to list items so they put in anything that could draw attention to their other items.
Why the jerks think that someone looking for a specialty board would buy something else makes no sense to me !!
On NEW items: they are allowed to post something as new even if it came out of a broken or nonworking unit as long as the unit itself was new. SO, a new item could be DEAD !!
ANYHOW: the one I bought as NEW was used and someone did try to fix it and IT WAS COOKED !! OUT $140 after shipping !!
 
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lhsa

Weaksauce
Joined
Jun 12, 2008
Messages
107
i have a really nice xhd3000 for sale in the "for sale" thread.
 

ToMMyGuN

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jul 9, 2008
Messages
327
Anyone had any experience with reballing BGA's? that is really the problem here, and if we could find someone to do it cheaply, we would be all good. I have a few requests out to some reballing places for quotes, but I was wondering if anyone has ever tackled anything like this before or had it done for them - Anyone?
 
Joined
Nov 27, 2010
Messages
16
Anyone had any experience with reballing BGA's? that is really the problem here, and if we could find someone to do it cheaply, we would be all good. I have a few requests out to some reballing places for quotes, but I was wondering if anyone has ever tackled anything like this before or had it done for them - Anyone?
Many reballers out there. The problem is testing these once they are done. Most guys are setup for laptops and can not test these boards. I took the gamble because the friends Guy was only 15 minutes away.
Not sure if the ebay guy does full reballs, He might because I had emailed him to find out where to get a template for these and he happened to have a universal one that he sent me to use (I rented it- It was quicker than waiting for one from China ! ) plus he sold me some lead free balls.
here is a template link
http://cgi.ebay.com/0-6-universal-stencil-0-6mm-BGA-Direct-heating-Template-/170504118477?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27b2d660cd
 

viccan

n00b
Joined
Mar 28, 2009
Messages
3
Wow I just took a bic lighter to this chip for about 2 min and it worked !!!! Thanks so so so much bro... This was an incredible monitor and was deffinatly brighter and crisper than my dell 30 (not that the dell was bad ) but this thing is just sharp....Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:cool:
 
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