100% Working repair for Gateway XHD3000 30" LCD monitor


Nov 4, 2007
Train 951, thank you!! Monitor is working now. See on video .

I think, you dont need to use custom board. Ive been bought my new t-con on aliexpress about 2 months ago for 110 $. (sorry for my eng, from Russia)
PS: Video is not available

Since you just opened it, can you please share the Model of the PANEL inside? If you can still see it.

The Wayfarer

Aug 16, 2004

My monitor was strobing; no bands of color, no grids or distortion, et cetera, just a rapid on/off strobe effect. So, I opened her up and (after confirming all the caps were in good shape) I baked my board at 375 for 8 minutes as so many others here have. Unfortunately after re-assembly, the situation has worsened. There is no picture at all now. Instead, the monitor simply cycles through full-screen fields of solor colors: red > green > blue > black > white > red > green > blue > black > white....ad infinitum.

Thoughts? I am going to try re-baking it a higher temperature, but I suspect this all means that the board is simply tits up. Of course, now I need to decide if I should spend the $100 on an eBay replacement, or just write the whole thing off as a loss...

Thanks everybody.


Jul 26, 2007
Personally I'd write it off - with new HP Omen 32" VA monitors at $400 US it doesn't make sense to stick your neck out on something you *KNOW* will die again at some point.

When my Samsung 305T died (internal PSU blew and fried the circuit boards) I replaced it with a used HP Zr30 - apart from not being a ticking time bomb it has DisplayPort so I could start weaning off all my DP-DVI adapters. At $250 CDN it was absolutely worth it.

Lately I have been seeing used 30" monitors (DVI only) go for as little as $175 CDN.


Dec 9, 2014
Hey guys, I wrote some tutorial about heating the TCon with a 40W lamp and decided to give some update on that for people who didn't give up.

crashnburn asked about how is it working and did I make some mods.

Well, over the years I got very efficient at doing it. I now use a flat 36W 12V halogen lamp for the heating. Fixing the monitor takes me about 15min. Now that I have a dozen of procedures I can say that my method is somewhat unreliable but not bad. My repairs last for very different amounts of time. Sometimes the monitor would flicker just 1 hour after but I also got some very long periods of 1 year or so, without problems. The problem is I don't know if I am melting the solder beneath. These long periods seem to be when I heat the chip more but I also don't want to overheat it. At this present time I heat the cheap while the monitor is working, so I see the moment when it stops flickering. I heat the chip for about 3-5 minutes after I see that it stops to flicker. Just now I did another reheating for 3 minutes and it worked only for about an hour, so I guess it needs more. I just forget how much time it needs. One of the long periods I remember that I heated it 8 minutes after the stop of flickering.
I didn't mod it for better cooling but I did put a fan that blows on the plate. I don't use the back cover of the monitor. Well, I don't know what to say. That's how it is. Sometimes it last 1 year, sometimes 1 hour but overall it is not that bad, 3-4 heating procedures for the year or less.
I really like this monitor, it is big with nice MVA panel. I can't buy a replacement. I am am doing graphics on it, it is very evenly lit and the color is very accurate although it lacks adjustment. I want to use it, so I fight for it! :)
I think reballing it is a good way to go but people who do reballing want too much money here in Bulgaria. The board itself costs less and they don't guarantee success. Maybe I should reball it and go on but everytime it flickers I just fix it.

I am sorry for those who asked me questions but I don't visit this forum regularly. My 40W halogen lamp method does work every time but the working period after that is still a gamble but as I said, I think it's worth it.