100% Working repair for Gateway XHD3000 30" LCD monitor

Train 951, thank you!! Monitor is working now. See on video .

I think, you dont need to use custom board. Ive been bought my new t-con on aliexpress about 2 months ago for 110 $. (sorry for my eng, from Russia)

PS: Video is not available

Since you just opened it, can you please share the Model of the PANEL inside? If you can still see it.
 
Necrothread!

My monitor was strobing; no bands of color, no grids or distortion, et cetera, just a rapid on/off strobe effect. So, I opened her up and (after confirming all the caps were in good shape) I baked my board at 375 for 8 minutes as so many others here have. Unfortunately after re-assembly, the situation has worsened. There is no picture at all now. Instead, the monitor simply cycles through full-screen fields of solor colors: red > green > blue > black > white > red > green > blue > black > white....ad infinitum.

Thoughts? I am going to try re-baking it a higher temperature, but I suspect this all means that the board is simply tits up. Of course, now I need to decide if I should spend the $100 on an eBay replacement, or just write the whole thing off as a loss...

Thanks everybody.
 
Personally I'd write it off - with new HP Omen 32" VA monitors at $400 US it doesn't make sense to stick your neck out on something you *KNOW* will die again at some point.

When my Samsung 305T died (internal PSU blew and fried the circuit boards) I replaced it with a used HP Zr30 - apart from not being a ticking time bomb it has DisplayPort so I could start weaning off all my DP-DVI adapters. At $250 CDN it was absolutely worth it.

Lately I have been seeing used 30" monitors (DVI only) go for as little as $175 CDN.
 
Hey guys, I wrote some tutorial about heating the TCon with a 40W lamp and decided to give some update on that for people who didn't give up.

crashnburn asked about how is it working and did I make some mods.

Well, over the years I got very efficient at doing it. I now use a flat 36W 12V halogen lamp for the heating. Fixing the monitor takes me about 15min. Now that I have a dozen of procedures I can say that my method is somewhat unreliable but not bad. My repairs last for very different amounts of time. Sometimes the monitor would flicker just 1 hour after but I also got some very long periods of 1 year or so, without problems. The problem is I don't know if I am melting the solder beneath. These long periods seem to be when I heat the chip more but I also don't want to overheat it. At this present time I heat the cheap while the monitor is working, so I see the moment when it stops flickering. I heat the chip for about 3-5 minutes after I see that it stops to flicker. Just now I did another reheating for 3 minutes and it worked only for about an hour, so I guess it needs more. I just forget how much time it needs. One of the long periods I remember that I heated it 8 minutes after the stop of flickering.
I didn't mod it for better cooling but I did put a fan that blows on the plate. I don't use the back cover of the monitor. Well, I don't know what to say. That's how it is. Sometimes it last 1 year, sometimes 1 hour but overall it is not that bad, 3-4 heating procedures for the year or less.
I really like this monitor, it is big with nice MVA panel. I can't buy a replacement. I am am doing graphics on it, it is very evenly lit and the color is very accurate although it lacks adjustment. I want to use it, so I fight for it! :)
I think reballing it is a good way to go but people who do reballing want too much money here in Bulgaria. The board itself costs less and they don't guarantee success. Maybe I should reball it and go on but everytime it flickers I just fix it.

I am sorry for those who asked me questions but I don't visit this forum regularly. My 40W halogen lamp method does work every time but the working period after that is still a gamble but as I said, I think it's worth it.
 
Hey guys, I wrote some tutorial about heating the TCon with a 40W lamp and decided to give some update on that for people who didn't give up.

crashnburn asked about how is it working and did I make some mods.

Well, over the years I got very efficient at doing it. I now use a flat 36W 12V halogen lamp for the heating. Fixing the monitor takes me about 15min. Now that I have a dozen of procedures I can say that my method is somewhat unreliable but not bad. My repairs last for very different amounts of time. Sometimes the monitor would flicker just 1 hour after but I also got some very long periods of 1 year or so, without problems. The problem is I don't know if I am melting the solder beneath. These long periods seem to be when I heat the chip more but I also don't want to overheat it. At this present time I heat the cheap while the monitor is working, so I see the moment when it stops flickering. I heat the chip for about 3-5 minutes after I see that it stops to flicker. Just now I did another reheating for 3 minutes and it worked only for about an hour, so I guess it needs more. I just forget how much time it needs. One of the long periods I remember that I heated it 8 minutes after the stop of flickering.
I didn't mod it for better cooling but I did put a fan that blows on the plate. I don't use the back cover of the monitor. Well, I don't know what to say. That's how it is. Sometimes it last 1 year, sometimes 1 hour but overall it is not that bad, 3-4 heating procedures for the year or less.
I really like this monitor, it is big with nice MVA panel. I can't buy a replacement. I am am doing graphics on it, it is very evenly lit and the color is very accurate although it lacks adjustment. I want to use it, so I fight for it! :)
I think reballing it is a good way to go but people who do reballing want too much money here in Bulgaria. The board itself costs less and they don't guarantee success. Maybe I should reball it and go on but everytime it flickers I just fix it.

I am sorry for those who asked me questions but I don't visit this forum regularly. My 40W halogen lamp method does work every time but the working period after that is still a gamble but as I said, I think it's worth it.

I am not visiting much either. But during Pandemic if I get time I will try to work on my shelved aside Gateway.

I am thinking if I can find a newer driver board to bring this Panel back to life. We should search for one that can work with it.
 
I replaced the board in mine some years ago and left the back off and have not had any problems since. But it is a secondary monitor I don't use much.
 
I replaced the board in mine some years ago and left the back off and have not had any problems since. But it is a secondary monitor I don't use much.
How did you replace it/ what did you replace it with? I might want to do something similar and let my dad use it.
 
How did you replace it/ what did you replace it with? I might want to do something similar and let my dad use it.


As you might imagine by my posts in this thread, it has been a while. I found the board NEW on the Internet and R/R'd the old board. It is a bit Tedious to do. The connectors are easily broken. The board cost me about $150-$175 if I remember correctly. There seem to be some available from China on Aliexpress. I left the back off. The chips on that board get pretty hot.
 
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