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WD makes a 3TB Enterprise drive (WD RE WD3000FYYZ).

Before blue LEDs became viable mass market products, everything came with green, red or yellow/amber LED, so the first "modders" put blue LEDs into all of their stuff simply to have something "different". The industry simply took a cue from that.

Hope you're willing to ship internationally if the winner pays :)

Depends on the board. Some will happily accept the 4-pin 12v connector, some require an additional molex if you don't have an 8-pin connector.

I'd blame the board. Gigabyte even mentions it in the specs: "* Due to standard PC architecture, a certain amount of memory is reserved for system usage and therefore the actual memory size is less than the stated amount."

It was a little over 5 weeks from the time I shipped the bad card to the arrival of the replacement. I don't know exactly how long the card was at BFG as what few updates I received on the process came from the store.

It was a different retail-type package. My original card came in a huge cardboard box, with cardboard inlays, packaged in bubble wrap and an anti-static bag. The replacement card came in a smaller box with a plastic mold-type inlay and the card in that without any protection. In more than 10...

I expected a decent turnaround, not 5 weeks.

Five weeks ago my then 2-month-old GeForce 8800 GTS OC2 640MB started artifacting. I'd never messed with the card so I sent it in to the store, which after verifying the problem sent it on to BFG. After 5 weeks and all of the Christmas holidays without a gaming computer the replacement card...

You still get RPM readings from the 3-pin connector.

It's not hard, really. Keep it unplugged for a few days and avoid touching the caps while it's open.

Probably check them and send them out as refurbs to people who RMA theirs?

You don't need to buy anything fancy if you're a little handy with electronics. The PSU powers on when the "green" cable is pulled to ground. If you use a relay you can get the second PSU to power on when you turn on the computer. Since you're intending to run hard disks off it there should be...

Actually, that only lasted for one reboot. Back to square one.

Nevermind. Forcing TV detection seems to have done the trick.

I'm setting up a pseudo-HTPC from spare components. Before now I'd only used GeForce cards for TV-only applications and it always worked perfectly, even displayed BIOS screens and everything on the TV without a monitor connected. Not with the Radeon. Without a monitor, it won't display...

Can the onboard fan connectors of the P35 Neo2-FR handle 120mm, 0.16A fans? The manual doesn't mention anything.

I'm currently looking into building a new system and am undecided on a video card to go with the 22" Samsung 226BW that I got two weeks ago. I've pretty much narrowed it down to the 8800 GTS, since ATI's current offerings are less than impressive and the mid-range GeForce 8 cards don't have...

That's simply not true. As H-street mentioned, there are tools available that allow you to bypass the encoder on that specific card and thus practically eliminate the lag, which is exactly what the OP needs.

Follow the DOWNLOAD DRIVERS link at the top of that page? :p

Forceware is what NVidia's drivers are called. If you want multiple virtual desktops you'll need to download a third party tool.

Virtual PC 2007 doesn't virtualize video cards. You're stuck with a badly emulated 2D card.

I can't suggest any particular model specifically for movies, but if movies are the primary application then you'll probably want to get a widescreen model to waste less screen space with black bars. (You'll still get black bars though as the aspect ratios don't match)

If in doubt, switch to 60Hz (TFTs don't flicker), although many TFTs also support 75Hz. What you're hearing might be the inverter. Though on mine I only hear it when the monitor goes into standby.

Might be cheaper to let someone else do it. There are companies out there who offer tape to DVD conversions.

I had one for a couple of days before I sent it back for a refund. Had a flickering backlight which made things easier but it also ghosted terribly (was a cheaper 16ms 19" model).

Dead (sub)pixels can rarely be fixed. Those programs (or animated color changing gifs/movies) usually only work on stuck (bright) pixels.

The tuner will always be either NTSC or PAL, but for Hauppauge cards there's a registry "hack" that allows both to be captured from S-Video In. Works with my WinTV PVR-usb2. Check out http://www.cask-of-amontillado.com/pvr_reg.html for details.

Hang on.. if an S-Video cable fits into the connector then it's certainly not a VIVO port. Might be a software issue? Many older cards will only enable TV output if the TV is connected before you boot up the computer. Also make sure you have TV out enabled in the drivers.

TV Out could be composite or S-Video, but you'd have to describe the connector in more detail. If it's a round protrusion with a single hole in the center it's composite. If there are 4 holes in a slightly trapezoid pattern it's S-Video.

Why does your TV tuner application require 3D acceleration?

Developers would be shooting themselves in the foot by requiring DX10 hardware right off the bat. I'm pretty sure that alternate DX9 render paths will be supported by all important titles for at least a year after DX10 is released.

I seem to remember that it was a technical reason, panels being easier to manufacture at a 5:4 ratio. I believe it's the same reason why widescreen LCDs tend to be 16:10 instead of 16:9 like "traditional" widescreen TVs.

The PVR150 only has an analog tuner, so for any digital channels you will still need a set top box. If you want to receive digital channels without a set top box in Europe you will need a DVB compatible card (DVB-T for terrestrial, DVB-S for satellite, DVB-C for cable)...

I don't know about everyone else but LCDs are definitely easier on my eyes. Less frequent headaches after staring at the screen all day compared to CRTs.

I had a Pentium 90 that would run at 100 MHz, but it was actually slower due to the bus speed (50x2 instead of 60x1.5). Had a Pentium MMX 233 that would run at 292 MHz stable.

Had a similar problem with my Sony G400. It would get progressively more blurry, then pop and go back to normal for a few minutes before going blurry again. Ended up replacing it with a nice TFT :)

They're for full-length cards to reduce stress on the slots.

It's probably not the ribbon cable but the soft membrane that connects the electronics to the actual glass panel.

And the practical application of that would be...?